Mike H

If you don't plan on doing your sofa then the cost will obviously be a lot less, easily half. Those captain chairs are really heavy and are NOT a one man job to get them out of the coach. It took 3 guys working together (1 inside and 2 outside) removing them and the sofa was taken apart to get out. Be sure to take a good look at the chair back cable release to make sure it's in good shape because if it ever fails you have to pull the fabric off the seat to get at it. The swivel release cable to can replace without removing anything. If you have heated seats then I suspect you're going to find the heating pads are probably breaking apart from age. I didn't even try to find replacements for mine as I never plan on traveling anywhere I would need them anyway. If you want the Monaco logo in the headrest your upholstery guy can cut you pieces of fabric to send off to get embroidered. They can use any color thread you want to compliment whatever color fabric you choose.

I bought my UltraLeather from Bradd and Hall ( https://www.braddandhall.com/productcart/pc/home.asp ). Go to any upholstery shop and have them give you an estimate of how much material you'll need. Bradd and Hall will send you fabric samples. I forgot the website for UltraLeather but you can just ask B&H and they'll tell you. You can go to that website and pick out all the colors and type of material you're interested in and then tell B&H and they'll send you samples. I'll have to go back through my files to find out how much I paid for everything. I did a 2-tone seat that's why you see the Doe and Pelican colors. This is for the two captain chairs and the Jackknife sofa.

I had my seats and sofa reupholstered by A&E Auto and Boat Upholstery in Melbourne Florida. I provided the material and they removed everything and reinstalled it. Took about a week. I also was able to digitize the Monaco logo and gave it to Stargazer Embroidery in Cocoa, Fla and they embroidered that for me as well. The have the file if you want that done and I think it only cost maybe $15.

Here's switch I had to replace for my shade and where I bought it. I also bought an actuator removal tool but you can just use a flat head screwdriver instead. The switch will come without the actuator so try not to break yours when removing it..

I had the same problem with mine a year ago. I had to replace the switch. When I went to unplug the switch pulled right of the switch housing. It's a Carling switch and they can be found at NW RV Supply. I'll have to go see what the part number for mine is.

Yep, just found some for $60 but they are about 90 miles away. Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. I know what I need to do now.

DANG ! You're absolutely correct. That was a bad typo 🙂

Ah Ha ! A chemical tote, that's what I was thinking about but forgot what they were called. A couple of the camps out at my fishing camp installed those. Most of the other camps just used two 55 gal plastic barrels and a drain field pipe. I didn't think the 55 gal barrels would be big enough if I came home with my holding tanks half full. I'll check around on Craig's List and Marketplace. Tnx.

Tom, My problem our septic tank is on the other side of our house and it would take probably 200 ft of line to get to it. At a slope of 1/4" per foot the tank would need to be 50 ft deep to drain properly. Our back yard is only about 15-20 ft away from where the sewer hose would attach to the coach. A 200-250 gal barrel is probably going to be the simplest solution and I think I might be able to find someone that could put that in without any permitting.

So you didn't bother with putting in a small drain field of any sort?

Has anyone installed a dedicated 'stand alone' holding tank dump station at their house. I'm not looking for dumping into our existing septic tank (way to far away and on the opposite side of our house). At our hunting and fishing camps we used a couple of 55 gal barrels and they worked fine for occasional flushing but I know they would be overloaded with a single 40 - 60 gal dump. I suspect our current septic tank system couldn't even handle a single dump of that volume. My question is: How big/small of a septic has anyone installed. Typically I don't see it getting used more than 1 or 2 times a year. Probably more if a friend wanted to make a short visit and for us if we had used a Harvest Host site for a weekend and needed to dump when we got back home.

You would think that would be a standard feature just like all other vehicles. At night when I have to lock or unlock the entrance door I have to feel around in the dark for the key pad until it lights up and then I can enter my key codes. I ended up finding some rechargable LED lights and mounted one on the bottom of the entrance door and another under the dash facing the entrance. I even have a couple of spare buttons on our Key Fobs that would be nice to activate the porch light and an interior light.

There are some spacers/shims inside of the square tubes. Were you able to see whether or not they may have dropped out or if they are still in place. They fell out of mine and had to be reinstalled. My slide was racked to the point where the side wall separated from the floor.

Also the green travel mode light on mine won't come on if the tag axle is lifted.

Glad to hear you got it worked out.

I think we have the same layout, even though mine is a 45 CAQ. None of the fuses in the closet have anything to do with Bay lights etc. Check boards F12, F13 and F14 in the outside front run bay (mine is in the attached photo).

If you were looking into the electrical panel in your closest, those are the breakers for your 110 circuits. You're going to find all your other 12v fuses in the front outside electrical run bay. I looked at the 12v fuses in our closest and don't see anything for Grab Bar, bay lights etc.

I went with a Blue Point gage and love it. They don't make this mdfel anymore but it looks like the Eastman is a duplicate. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314571550116?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1CIbXqOcjQFi5RjwXMQ33HQ1&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=314571550116&targetid=1587268787897&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9011838&poi=&campaignid=19894961968&mkgroupid=148855406073&rlsatarget=pla-1587268787897&abcId=9307911&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnMWkBhDLARIsAHBOftorVtMU95F9vyfK1j-wQg8Xh63bTR3t7Zp9X5F8mKwgjjPaO_YMDvEaAi63EALw_wcB https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-digital-tire-pressure-gauge-inflator.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwnMWkBhDLARIsAHBOftrS7eKjVHb88iSbYEU3NPVTzwPASxcd6dtzcRsUADx-J9_vKAJuL5kaAlAqEALw_wcB&wcid=18669317181&wickedid=629946432616&wickedsource=google&wv=4

Have you looked at your hyd cylinders to see if there is any visible leakage. You're losing hyd pressure somewhere? You should also check around the pump and solenoids , under your entry stairs, to make sure your hyd reservoir is at the proper level and whether or not there are any visible leaks there. If you have no visible leaks anywhere then most likely your hyd cylinder(s) are leaking and if the slide is coming in crooked then I would first suspect the synchronizing cylinder but that there is just a guess. Bottom line is that most likely you're facing having ALL of the hyd cylinders for the offending slide(s) pulled out and rebuilt. When you extend or retract those slides are they moving straight or are the slides coming in crooked? If straight then your synchronizing cylinders might be OK but if you're starting to have leaking hyd cylinders then I would pull them all out to have rebuilt. It's only a matter of time before they all start failing. Cost to rebuild them will probably be around $110 each and you'll probably have to locate a good hyd shop to do that yourself. Most RV repair facilities are probably going to want to buy new cylinders from HWH to install and you really don't need to go that route plus it'll probably take 'forever' to get replacement cylinders from HWH. Where are you located? I can recommend a couple of places in Central Florida that will do that for you. Like Dick said above, try exercising them fully several times and then hold your switch down until you hear a different sound from your pump indicating it has built up full pressure and going into its bypass mode. You could just have a bit of crude caught up in one of the solenoids and that should hopefully work it out.

Tom Cherry has IMHO has the best route laid out.

Thanks MJ. They really look nice. I had also considered going with Projector Light. I also like the looks of your Fog Lights. Where did you find them? How do you think they would work as back up lights?

If you have an opportunity some time could you post some close-up photos of you headlight conversion and let us know if you had any issues with the installation. I have looked at those lights before but have wondered about the quality. I have a twin to your coach 🙂

From the end of '69 Cocoa Beach, Cape Canaveral and Titusville through the early 70's there was a mass exodus from this area. PHd's were lucky if they could get a job at a 7-11 or Eckerds. I left in Sept of '69 after Chrysler closed up in Cape Canaveral. Yes the Apollo-Soyuz launch was on July 15, 1975 and that was after we started converting the Apollo facilities and Ground Support Equipment over to support the Shuttle program. It wasn't until early '74 when hiring started again.

Reminds me of the very late 60's when the Apollo program was shutting down and everyone losing their jobs. I saw people packing everything they could and abandoned everything else along with their homes and pulling out into I-95 and heading north out of Florida.

I bought a 1090 at the Tampa show last January, for the wife to play with while I use my 770 for navigation. I like to use the 'Live Track' feature of the 770. That 1090 has a lot of nice features.