Frank McElroy

This is how your Dynasty should work:

With the entry door closed and the steps retracted, turn OFF the step switch.  This should keep the steps in when the door is open or closed.  However, if the engine ignition is turned ON and the door is opened, it will override the step OFF switch setting and extend the steps.

If you have the door open with the steps extended and you turn the step switch OFF, the steps will stay extended when the door open or closed.

16 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

For my front axle I used a pair of 12 ton juck stands from Harbor Freight and sat them on solid concrete blocks to get the height to support the front of the coach. (Aired the coach all the way up, stacked the concrete blocks, placed jack stands on the blocks, raised the jack to meet the house frame, aired down about an inch settling on the stands and used a 6 ton bottle jack to manipulate the axle as needed.)  So that was 48,000 lb capacity for the 15,000 lb front axle so I figured it was within limits.  For the rear I could sit the stands on the floor.

PS: It was not fun getting to those top bag nuts and 1 1/4 inch airline "flared nut" broken loose.  Never could get a regular 1 1/4 inch open end on the air line but shorter crescent wrench and cheater pipe could wiggle enough in the tight space.  Once the nuts were cracked free they would spin off fairly easy with just my fingers.  And after managing to get the 1 1/4 airline "bushing/male flared fitting" through the hole in the plate with all the appropriate encouraging words I could think of, I took an emery cylinder on my drill and cleaned up the plate hole just a tad to assist in reassembly.  I'll conclude with hoping the new bags have a longer life expectancy than me!

Keep in mind that jack stands are rated as a pair - not individually unless they are individually stamped.  A pair of 12 ton jack stands would be rated for 24,000 lbs, not 48,000 lbs.  Even at 24,000 lbs, you were still above the 15,000 lb front axle weight.

The other possibility is that the filter size is undersized for the engine.  If you post a few pictures, folks with the same model year would chime in and comment if your setup is correct.

If you don't find a restriction, it's possible that under load, a hose is collapsing.

On 4/10/2024 at 7:51 PM, Michael Powell said:

Hate to be a be paain't but do you have pictures of them??

Just follow the large air hoses form the 4 front air bags.  The 4 large are hoses go to each end of the 2 ping tanks located up high next to the frame rail centered between the steer airbags on each side.

This article is worth a thousand words.  It has all the info including pictures that you need to distinguish between a conventional and Kongsberg system.

Today these once obsolete dash switch modules used in the Kongsberg system can now be repaired.

Kongsberg started with 2008 Signature and mid 2008 Dynasty.  These systems will only have one large circuit board.  Since OP mentioned boards, he would have a conventional system.

Circuit boards are basically only available from salvage yards.  There is nothing really special about these boards.  Individual components and relays are available from electronic supply houses.  Circuit diagrams are available in our Downloads under wiring diagrams.  Since you are capable of doing circuit board repair, you should be just fine.

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

My alternator bit the dust on my way south this winter! Luckily my BIRD / Big Boy is functional!

I just ran my generator the rest of the way, and replaced my alternator at my destination.

Yes, that's a great example of understanding how all the systems in your coach work together and if there is an issue, how to solve the problem as you did.

Years ago, I got a call at about 10:30 PM from a person who I knew and I thought that there must be a problem so I took the call.  He was on the side of the road on a dark rainy night, with no headlights, dash gauges, or interior lights but with the engine running, and waiting hours for a tow.   His domestic engineer was very scared to say the least. 

Since I know he had a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coach, with the house batteries powering the dash gauges, headlights and interior lights, I told him that his Big Boy failed and to just jumper the chassis batteries to the house batteries to start the generator.

That's exactly what he did and a few minutes later, his domestic engineer was thrilled at getting back power to the coach - tow was cancelled and he drove home.

It's all about understanding how all the systems work together and what to do if there is a problem.

12 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Don't know, but I've read of owners using different devices wedged under the switch!

Can't recall ever using the boost switch myself, but, I keep my batteries reasonably fresh!

Yes, over the years I've seen the same posts about owners using different devices to hold the battery boost switch ON.  A very bad idea - that's the main reason why I decided to post why not to do it.

As it turned out, the new owner had 2 boards from the previous owner with the same exact failure.  He now has 2 repaired boards.  One he's using and one as a spare for future use if ever needed.

On 4/21/2024 at 8:31 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Just to clear the air and set the record straight.  Frank is the only person that has successfully repaired the K’B CCM switch modules.  Frank took this on as a “personal” challenge maybe a year of so ago.  He had helped some recover functions and started to understand the MPX system.  The saga or story of how he was able to “download and reprogram or fix” any of the components” is documented in the topics.  Do a search of KONGSBERG” and select TOPICS.  He has posted the “gist” of his journey.  He set up a “bench” line where he had a complete CCM system breadboarded together and had every function, as in the output signals to EVERY K’B controlled component, working.  With that rig, he can diagnose any issue.  He also was able to download and store every module’s program.  Memory says there are at least 7 or 8 discrete chip programs for the system.

Then, he developed a method to remove the “chip”, which is surface mounted on each device….and replace with a new, virgin unprogrammed chip….with precision as the 28 (memory) contacts….7 per side…placement has to be within maybe 0.003”.  Once replaced, then he has the ability to reprogram the chip with the OEM program….making it 100% functional.  In some cases, I think he has also repaired other items or restored a faulty “trace”.  

There are no other shops or individuals in the US that have accomplished this….much less have a smattering of his technology and expertise. It has been a “life saver” for our members.  There is a 30+ page topic here of how a member bought a “salvaged” MH and had the moxie to make it quasi roadworthy…as in drive it home.  The switches had been “tested” by another shop, only to discover that the original switches sent in, many of which were known good, were NOT returned and were replaced with defective ones.  THUS, that shop is one that we now have concerns about.

The above is the gist of how this saga ended and Frank is the only person to persevere and develop the methodology as well as fabricate the jig for replacement and also “crack the code”….as in learned how, with many hours of experiments and also totally drew up a schematic of the boards…to get a copy of the programs.

This is a feat beyond all electronics comprehension unless one was there, via emails, texts, photos as well as many phone calls…..which I was fortunate enough to be involved.

As Paul Harvey would say…..now you know the REST OF THE STORY….

Tom - Thanks for the kind words.  Yep, this was a bit of a challenge - but I like electronic challenges. 

For folks interested in the saga of how I learned how to repair the Kongsberg Chassis multiples system (including a detailed technical PDF file), read the link below starting about in the middle of page 11 (if you start on page 1 your will read the whole story of all the twists and turns).  Oh BTW, my coach doesn't have a Kongsberg system - my interest was in helping other members and maybe in the future getting a bath and a half coach with such a system and being able to repair it.

I had an interesting PCB repair last week that I want to share with the group.

A member with a new to him 2007 Signature contacted me to have his Big Boy control board (PCB#6 in RRB) repaired. 

On the board, a copper trace overheated and separated.  In trying to find out why, I asked a bit about the history.  The new owner mentioned that the previous owner said he replaced his big boy with a new one that didn't work and that he would wedge the battery boost to stay ON for hours at a time.  That bit of information explained everything.

The battery boost switch is momentary for a reason.  It is designed to be held ON for minutes - not tens of minutes let alone hours.  In normal operation, the control circuit board pulses 12 volts to the big boy coil to in effect provide about 8 VDC to hold the coil engaged (Big Boy is NOT a latching battery isolator like the Blue Sea ML-ACR).  When you press and hold ON the battery boost, you are providing a full 12VDC to the Big Boy solenoid coil and over time it will overheat, fail AND also burn up PCB#6 in the Rear Run Bay.

Since these boards are becoming hard to find in salvage yards, the board was repaired and is now working just fine.

A word of caution - please don't hold the battery boost switch ON for more than a few minutes at a time.

2 minutes ago, Kenster said:

I believe the switch is nothing more than a switch / relay module all built in one. Frankly, a stupid idea. If you have a wiring diagram and a little low voltage aptitude, you can easily Buy three replacement switches with a three gang faceplate, and dry contact relays according to the rated amps required, basically recreating the module. If a replacement is not available, this is exactly what any competent low voltage guy would do. If you are unable to find a direct replacement, let me know and and I would be happy help you Source the parts and draw up a wiring diagram for it.

These switches generate and send a digital code on a dedicated J1939 databus going to  2 Kongsberg CCM modules.  These CCM modules then power item based on switch digital code input.   That's how a chassis multiplex system works.

These are NOT just simply a series of switches and internal relays.

Yes early production 2008 model year Dynasty coaches (like mine) had conventional Chassis wiring system with the conventional SmartWheel Control Module.  It was mid year production of the 2008 model year coaches that converted over from conventional to the Kongsberg chassis multiplex system.

30 minutes ago, promontory said:

Issue: Wipers not working

Coach: 2008 Monaco Dynasty Stafford IV, Inellitec System, VIP Smartwheel.

Description: My smart wheel works with the exception of the wipers, which do not work at all. Windshield washers work, lights flash, headlights all work.

Actions taken to this point:

• Checked and changed fuses (20A and 10A) on wipers - Both good but changed to new anyway
• Verified I can hear / feel relay coil when pressing wiper buttons on steering wheel.
  • Switched with known good relay of exact make / model and still no wiper operation
• Using a power probe, I disconnected the wiper motor (single motor in my case for both wipers), and applied ground and power directly to the motor and it operated properly. 
• Thinking I need to add auxilary 5V power supply to VIP SM211

Question: I am thinking I would intercept wires feeding J4-1 and J4-2 and feed these two from the load side of the 12-5V DC-DC 10A power supply, fused on each side of power supply. Am I seeing this correctly?

Thank you for letting me resurrect an old post!

The +5 VDC "fix" only applies to coaches with a Kongsberg chassis multiplex system.  If you actually have a smart wheel controller that means that you don't have a Kongsberg system.

If you have a SmartWheel control module and you hear the internal relay click but no voltage on the output wire to the wiper motor, then the relay soldered to the circuit board inside the control module likely has failed.

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Depends on the type of device you are using. As Frank stated, a lot easier to find on a laptop or PC versus a mobile device.

I use my phone MOSTLY as a phone and some very important apps. All other computer work gets done on my laptop.

The site has two display interface versions - desktop and mobile.  If using a cell phone, the default will be the mobile version.  Mobile versions will take most all the icon options shown in the desktop option and put them in drop down screens that you need to select by pressing the 3 dots or bars in the upper part of the mobile version screen.  This gives less clutter in the cell phone mobile device screen. 

You do have an option on the mobile device screen by clicking on the 3 dots in the upper right and select Desktop.  You will then see all the options but the print will be a whole lot smaller on your cell phone screen.

For me, the only time I use the desktop version is when I'm maintaining the Files to add a screenshot on new files.  Everything else, I do on this site, I use my Android cell phone.

35 minutes ago, BradHend said:

- Click the three lines, top right. 
- Click browse in the menu that comes up. 
- Click downloads in the next menu that comes up. 
- This will bring you to the ‘Downloads’ page.  
- Click the ‘Category:  All’ button and select ‘Electrical Systems’. 
- This will bring you to the Electrical Systems’ page. 
- Click the ‘Sub-Category’ button and select ‘Wiring Diagrams’. 
- You are know able to find and select the wiring diagram you are looking for.  

 

On my android phone that's exactly how I do it.  A lot more clicks using the Mobile vs desktop version.

11 hours ago, bonfield said:

I know thiis s a very open ended question but i have a 2004 endevour on a roamaster chassis.The brakes in regular use seem fine until you get to the actual stopping and they will not lockup or slow you down very well and in a hard braking are dangerous.Has anyone any ideas of something that may be common and comes to mind.I am a mechanic and due to health issues am not able to remove the the wheels etc.

Under full heavy braking you should be hearing the ABS system kick in to prevent wheel lockup but it sounds like after the brakes heat up, you get even less braking. That is not a safe condition and must be repaired before driving the coach.

When brake drums get hot, they expand and if the slack adjusters are out of range you get reduced braking.

I believe that your coach has automatic slack adjusters but that doesn't mean they are working properly.  It's critical to periodically adjust the auto brake adjusters with multiple full brake applications while stopped on level ground with the parking brake off.  If the auto slack adjusters are working, brake chamber rod travel distance should come back into spec and give you full braking performance . But you still need to inspect your air brake slack adjusters and be sure brake chamber push rod travel distance is within spec with and without brakes applied.

If slack adjusters are out of spec, they need to be adjusted or replaced before the coach can be safely driven.

Bendix Automatic Slack Adjuster - SlackAdjust-Chk.pdf

1 hour ago, rschley said:

Have parked down south for 6 months with slide extended. Time to leave and drivers side living room slide wont come in. Galley side and generator slides both work. 

I checked all bay doors and appear to be closed and switch is in. Checked owners manual and everything seems ok.  Any ideas where any fuses would be located relating to the slide? The Manual suggested checking for fuses.

Any ideas would really be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Ron

It would be important to know if your 2005 has the Intellitec lighting system with slides operated by pressing keypads connected to Intellitec modules typically located in the bedroom closet cabinet. 

Assuming your coach does have this system then see pages 103-109 in the attached file.  One of those pages will fit the slide configuration of your coach. 

Then, while holding down the DS slide in keypad, see if the LED light that matches the DS retract solenoid wire lights up.  If it doesn't, check the associated fuse.  Likely you'll find the wire on Module A. 

It's important to know if the HWH slide relay control box is getting the proper signal to activate the slide retract solenoid.  If you do see a green LED light, then check the wiring on the slide solenoid valves located under the removable bin under the second interior step inside the coach.

No problems in viewing HEIC on my android cell phone or windows 10 laptop.  I do keep up with software updates including the optional ones.

3 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

Thanks Tom> I have to admit I have never used this file. I fooled around and once I figured it out I see that the Monitor has a fuse in the RRB. I will find that tomorrrow. But the radio diagram shows the fuse but it says underneath: 15-J1-5. Where is that?? The radio fuse in the FR bay is good but no power to the radio? I could just steal some 12 volt from another wire but would prfere the correct way. Thanks

15-J1 -5 means Printed Circuit Board (PCB) number 15 in the Front Run Bay (FRB), connector J1 on that PCB and wire #5 on that J1 connector.

Then check the large J2 pin 5 on the side wall connector on the FRB.

There are many times where this multi pin cable connection on the side of the FRB has pin corrosion.

You're not the first to be surprised by all those lights.

Often when trying to help someone troubleshoot a problem, I'll ask them to take a picture (with the ignition ON) of a certain board as they press and release a switch inside the coach.  That pretty much would tell me what has failed without voltage readings.

I'm glad those Intellitec boards were basically designed with self diagnostic LEDs on them.

Those are indicator LED lights that are only powered when the ignition key is on. 

The color means nothing special.  Monaco used alternating colors to make it a bit easier to see which LED went with which description and to add to the "WOW" factor when opening up those boxes. 

For someone troubleshooting a circuit, the LEDs would show if the circuit and switches inside the coach are working without needing a voltmeter. If the LED is lit, the fuse is good and circuit is getting power.  Same for when a switch is activated, a LED light will come on showing that the switch is being pressed.  If a relay is supposed to energize, there will be a LED light on the relay coil and another LED on the output wire.  So if you know how to read a schematic, you can troubleshoot a circuit by just looking at which LEDs light up.

All those LEDs are shown in the wiring diagram board schematics.

I thought it would be good to provide a bit more background.

One of the previous owners had a problem with the generator start master switch module.  That meant that this master and 5 other slave switch modules plugged into it didn't work. 

In an attempt to fix the problem either a previous owner or a service center cut open the original switch modules, threw away the multiplex circuit board inside along with the front rocker switch covers.  Then they cut out the rest of the plastic interior so they could fit in 3 standard Carling switches.  They did this to the master and all 5 slave switch modules.  Then they did an attempt to hard wire most but not all the switch function without fuse protection that the CCM provided.  Yes, a mess.  But the new owner has the skill set to put the wiring back to OEM as long as he can find a master switch module.

Maybe there is someone out there with a spare master module working or not and would be willing to sell it to the new owner.