Frank McElroy
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Posts posted by Frank McElroy
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9 minutes ago, zmotorsports said:
Agreed Rusty, I think having the coach in a climate controlled environment when not in use plays a huge factor, but also routine usage is just as important. I have only been fortunate to have our coach stored indoors for the past almost 7 years now as the first 10+ years of it's like as well as our previous two coaches were outside full-time. The tires were covered however when not in use which wasn't quite as good as being indoors but better than nothing.
You guys are making me nervous about the smell of the Toyo's. I really don't want my shop to smell like some kind of barnyard animal. Hell, I couldn't wait to get off the d*** farm, let alone go back to having to smell one. My last shop after working in it for 25+ years took on a smell of race fuel and machining oils and I LOVED it. Would like to get my new one to smell like that eventually but now I'm nervous I may have introduced a not so pleasant smell into it. The surrounding farms where we live are all the animal smell I can take.
With the Toyos I didn't notice any smell different then any other new set of tires.
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If you have a voltmeter with a clamp amp meter, you could easily measure the current on that wire. That would be an easy way to know how much current is being drawn. Also, I think that wire runs through one of the large connectors on the side of the FRB. Make sure there is no corrosion inside that connector. Corrosion will add resistance and draw more amps. Same for the connection plug on the blower resistor block.
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If you are saying that the fan works at certain positions and then in other positions the circuit breaker trips, that sounds like a short. I'd check the fan resistor block to see if it's shorted.
To check to see if you have a weak auto-resetable CB, connect the wire from PCB #10 feeding the HVAC controller through a separate 30 amp fuse (in effect bypassing the 30 amp CB). If the fuse blows you know you have a short. If the fuse doesn't blow and the fan works in all positions then you have a weak CB.
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12 hours ago, Garrett said:
I do have power to FRB Checked all fuses in FRB and all are good. All batteries fully charged. Found inline fuse to monitor harness and have power to and out of that fuse. Not sure where that wire is getting power from. Previous owner had Aladdin system replaced with Silverleaf so I'm not sure if the old Aladdin reset switch would reset silverleaf. It worked before I removed it to get to AC/Heater switch. Traced all the wires from the monitor thinking I had a loose wire somewhere but nothing seems to be loose. Also had power to that Breaker before removal and now do not. Im new to these systems so not sure where to look now.
If you are saying that you have no input power to PCB #10 feeding the CB that feeds the HVAC, then trace back to check the power cable feeding that PCB. If you have power feeding the PCB but no power feeding the HVAC CB, then the PCB could be defective.
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1 hour ago, zmotorsports said:
Looks like your experience with the Michelin's mirrored my own Frank. Although my coach has technically only been stored indoors for 7 years now, prior to that it was outside 24/7/365. But I did cover them when sitting in the driveway. I covered all the tires on my 3 coaches over the past 32+ years or RV'ing. Even my enclosed trailer tires were covered when not in use and I had similar results with those tires. In the 25+ years of hauling enclosed race trailers around the western U.S. they all lasted in the 8-9 year range before starting to crack. As soon as minor cracks were noted they were replaced.
The one thing I noticed in keeping the garage at about 50% humidity year round, nothing rusts. The metal disk brakes are still nice and shiny even though the coach was last driven 6 months ago.
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4 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:
Mike,
Would love to see pics of the inside of the older Michelins once you’ve taken them off the wheels. I’ve always heard that’s where they deteriorate, but since my wife insists I replace steers at 5 yrs and drives at 7 (long story), I’ve never seen the inside of older tires.
Just curious.
After 9 years mine looked new inside.
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Mike, I had pretty much the same experience as you did. Last year I replaced my 9 year old Michelin energy tires with Toyo tires. The Michelins had no side wall cracking. Over the 9 years I put on about 40,000 miles and sold them to a trucker for $100 each. Like you, my coach sits in a garage where I keep the humidity at about 50%. I just couldn't justify the high cost of Michelin tires.
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4 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:
Hello everyone
Yesterday and today while going abt 60mph with the Cruise control on, I had a momentary decrease in power, I looked down and the warning light was lit for about 1 second.
I checked on my Silverleaf and I have the following:
ENG PID 94 42 Fuel delivery pressure- Abnormal change
The rig ran fine for about 5 hrs (mostly on cruise) and ran fine for abt 1 hrs after with cruise off.
How do I find details on this PID?
I seem to be lost on the Cummins site.
Notes: 2000 Dynasty ISC350. I have installed the FASS and the fuel pressure was 16 or 17 psi both times (right in the normal range).
thanks
Cummings uses codes based on those generated from their own proprietary Insite software. You will find conversion tables on the internet but are you sure Silverleaf is seeing engine code spn 94 fmi 42? I don't see this as mapping over to a Cummins code based on a quick internet search.
Typically fuel delivery pressure codes are associated with a fuel filter plugging, or a flue pressure sensor/electronic signal issue.
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A set of wiring diagrams is in our Download files. Here's a link.
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Sounds to me like you're not getting power to that board. Are you getting power to the FRB? Batteries good? Breakers in the RRB that feed the FRB good?
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9 hours ago, John C said:
This is a bank repo and the dealer didn't go over anything with me.
I did have two inspections - one on chassis - semitruck expert and another one on house side. I also did all fluids test.
There quite many issues with this coach.
Engine, transmission, radiator and Chassis side is pretty good.
inside and outside are very decent.
Most on house side which i believe i can handle with the help from Monaco community such as your guys here.
I did get a decent discount because of that. If your believe JD Power, my purchase is 45k below the average retail price.
No sure what is the history of this coach, I added oil twice, the first time I added 3/4 gallon and I don't see any leak.
Yesterday I added another 3/4 gallon, fill the oil all the way to top. After that I started to see oil leaks(from the excessive oil I added) all of those were coming from the cap, so far I haven't noticed leak from anywhere else.
Maybe the previous or previous previous owner already fix the leaks.
I will definitely going to keep monitoring this reservoir from now on.
Thanks
Thank you for the background information. The good news is that 2007 model year coaches were some of the best coaches made by Monaco.
If you don't already have it, attached is a copy of the owners manual and brochure for your coach. It has a huge amount of important information and well worth your time reading it.
On this site in the downloads files you will also find a set of wiring diagrams, technical tips, and the parts list.
Welcome to the forum.
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25 minutes ago, John C said:
That is why, I added the oil all the way to the top!
Right now the leak I saw always coming from the cap because of the excessive oil I added.
Looks like one of to solilnoid has been replaced before, my guess is probably that old solilnoid was leaking.
I will keep monitoring the area, hopefully no more leaks once all the excessive oil out of the reservoir.
Thanks.
It's very unlikely that a replacement solenoid caused fluid to be that low.
I'd check each of the 7 hydraulic cylinder hose ends and each of the 3 equalization cylinder hose ends connections for leaks. If you find no leaks - great. If you do then you can repair the problem hose.
You absolutely either have a leak or a previous owner did a repair of a hose or cylinder and the repair shop didn't do the repair correctly to be sure the fluid tank was filled.
When you first got the coach, did you or your service dealer do a fluid level check as part of your maintenance procedure to know that the system was at the proper full level as described in your owners manual?
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31 minutes ago, John C said:
Hi, Frank,
I don't have level jack.
It is still leaking oil from the cap, I guess I must have put too much oil as I could not decide what is the max oil line when I added oil, I added pretty much all the way to the top.
Could you please tell me what is the Max Oil level line, is it the one in middle as I marked in red(see attached)?
Thanks.
I use the ring you circled as the max oil level line with the cap screwed all the way into the top of the tank. If you have oil between that ring and the bottom end of the cap you should be just fine. But no higher than that ring you circled.
However, losing that much oil means you have a leak. HWH did have issues with the hydraulic hoses and the tank itself cracking. You need to check all the hydraulic hoses going to the cylinders on the 4 slides and the 3 equalization cylinders on the room slide cylinders as well as the hoses to the manifold to find the leak.
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12 hours ago, Dennis N - 2005 Windsor said:
Just to make sure you are aware, the hydraulic fluid level should be checked with all the slides in. The pump pumps it out of the reservoir into the slide cylinders, and when you retract the slides it pumps it back into the reservoir. If you fill the reservoir when the slides are out, when you pull them in it will overflow.
Yes, you want to check the oil level when all the slide hydraulic cylinders are retracted. That means, the flat floor wall slide and the generator slide need to be retracted. But, HWH is correct - the X-Slide mechanisms MUST be extended in order to have the slide hydraulic cylinders retracted. So on my coach, according to HWH, two PS slides need to be extended and two slides (flat floor and generator) retracted.
In reality the volume of oil in the larger diameter equalization cylinder pushing the piston shaft to retract the slide cylinders is likely pretty close to the volume in the slide cylinders used to extend them.
The hydraulic fluid on the slide cylinder shaft side is the same hydraulic fluid on equalization cylinder shaft side and it doesn't go to the tank.
So, it looks like Monaco made it simple by saying to have all slides retracted but the oil level can be no higher than 1/2" to the top of the tank. I never had an oil overflow problem.
Yes, if you have hydraulic leveling jacks, you check oil level when they are retracted.
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On 2/15/2024 at 11:21 AM, UdsResort said:
Greetings from a Monacoers newbie here!
I've been RVing for some time and owned many different rigs. I'm a first time Class A owner now for a couple of years, and all has gone pretty well. I have run across an issue that I had not first recognized. The large galley slide that is on the drivers side of the coach directly behind the drivers seat does not seat/seal completely at the very top. This seems to be more pronounced at the front corner than at the rear corner. The slide operates just fine and there is no leakage, or issues apparent when retracted.
I took it in for some work to my local motorhome shop here in west michigan, and asked them to look at that while they had it. They told me that they had checked and tried to adjust the rollers, but in the end, they felt the real issue was a 'warped slide floor'. The shop foreman and I looked at what they saw and I guess I can see what they were pointing out. I'm not totally convinced though.
I have spent some time parusing the forum looking for similar threads, but haven't stumbled across any that address the same issue. Anyone out there with some first-hand experience with this? The shop foreman told me he had seen this before on another Monaco. Thanks in advance for any input.
I have nearly the same situation as you do but it is the top rear that doesn't seal as well as the top towards the front of the coach when the slide is fully extended. On my slide, most of the weight is towards the front where the sofa is located. The rear end of that slide only has the table and chairs. What I did discover is that if I stood on the rear portion of the slide and it was enough added weight to tilt out the slide corner just a bit to seal the top of the slide to the wall and it stays sealed. The extra weight was enough to tweak this drop-down slide enough to seal it.
But, one thing I did notice is that when Monaco mounted the inside top seal on the slide the distance between this top seal is off a bit with the rear top corner being about 1/4" farther away from the wall. Duh - no wonder why it didn't easily seal. It's always been on my to-do list to relocate that seal but it never reached the top of my priority list.
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13 minutes ago, zmotorsports said:
Frank, that works on some compartment doors that open upward and out of the way of the strut. However, on pantographic style where the struts connects to the integral part of the hinge assembly through the middle of the framework, that doesn't work. Especially on the engine hatch where the entire hinge assembly is welded together and the fiberglass hatch itself fastens to the pantographic hinge assembly.
My engine hatch assembly must be different than yours. On mine I removed the bottom bolt on each side. That allowed the door to tilt enough to attach the gas strut without compressing it.
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I recall about a year after taking delivery that I had a strut go bad. Monaco shipped me two new ones. At the time what I did was to remove part of the hinge assembly so that the strut could be attached fully extended and then I used ratchet straps to pull the door into position to replace the part I removed. Now, that was about 16 years ago so I don't exactly recall the part of the hinge assembly I removed but it worked without needing to compress the strut.
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Lift the hinged second step - there should be a plastic bin to unscrew
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38 minutes ago, John C said:
My 2007 Monaco Dynasty hydraulic system is very very slow, that include 3 room slide out and generator slide out, one electric slide out is much fast than the hydraulic one.
I am plugged in to shore power and just change the hydraulic filter and replace all hydraulic oil, the hydraulic oil is full.I don't have level jack.
Any idea where to look?
Thanks!
Even though you are plugged in have you checked your chassis battery voltage. I believe your hydraulic pump is working off your chassis batteries and if your Big Boy is not working properly, your chassis batteries could be low.
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1 hour ago, Garrett said:
I have a 2007 Dynasty. I got it out of storage the other day to start prepping for a upcoming trip. Turned on dash heater and got nothing. Get nothing on any of the settings. Only found 1 fuse in FRB marked Blower and it is fine. Any ideas of other fuses or could it be controller?
Here are a few files that can help if you don't already have them. Check to be sure you have power coming out of the 30 amp circuit breaker on the FRB PCB#10.2007 Monaco Signature Wiring Diagrams (4).pdf2007 Monaco Signature Wiring Diagrams (4).pdf
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21 hours ago, Mike T Phillips said:
None of the light on the driverside seam to work I’ve checked all of the fuses in the back bedroom closet and replaced most of them. The switches still light up, but no power to the lights the two over the couch and the dining room light over the table. Any suggestions?
Mike Phillips 43 foot Holiday rambler imperial 2008 modelIf the keypad indicator light lights up indicating that the lights should be lit, then there is nothing wrong with the keypads. The problem is with the output module in the closet or the wiring to the lights. Look at the labels and find the one labeled for the keypad your pressing and see if the associated green indicator led lights up. If it does, that's telling you that the module is sending the output voltage to the light. If the indicator led lights and the fuse is good, then you likely have a wiring issue to the lights or, possibly a loose ground connection for the light circuits - is this on a slide out?
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2 hours ago, Makalu said:
Ok so I've figured it out. The Polaris Slingshot pedal mounts the sensor in the downward direction. As you see in the picture. By taking that sensor and mounting it in the downward direction on the Teleflex pedals on my Navigator it works! And it makes sense that the mounting direction needs to change because this is the direction the Polaris pedal mounts.
It's possible changing the rotation of the magnet 180 degrees would accomplish this as well. I haven't tried to remove it. But purchasing the Sensor off a Polaris Slingshot and installing it pointing down appears to work.
John, Thanks for the writeup - I included it in our files.
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1 hour ago, KeithP said:
Hi Everyone, I am new to the forum, I have a 2013 Diplomat 43 DFT, I just got back from a trip to Texas, to pick this new coach up, about a 1000 miles into the trip I noticed
the voltage fluctuating between 12.2 and 12.6, so i fired up the generator and had 13.1 to 13.6, has anyone ever experienced anything like this.
Not sure how the 2013 Diplomat electrical system is setup but if the voltage is fluctuating between 13.6 and 13.1, and the engine is cold, this is likely due to the engine intake grid heaters cycling on and off. I've noticed this on startup for a few minutes on my ISL engine.
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On 2/25/2024 at 2:27 PM, throgmartin said:
Tom, Et Al:
We wont work on anything electrical if the coach has a Kongsburg system. While I am confident our techs would never cause a short that would fry the CCM, I do not want the liability. If the Kongsburg CCM got fried a few months after we worked on it we would be in the line of fire and included in any lawsuit an owner may have.
We work on Sigs, dynasty's and Beavers a great deal but if it has a Kongsburg system we wont touch anything electrical 12 V DC or 120 VAC. We concentrate on slide floors, belt lines, roof's, etc when it comes to the Big Buses that have the Kongsburg system.
In regards to your slide, what mechanical issues are you having ? Is this slide an HWH space saver slide ? These are questions you would need to answer in order for me to recommend someone. Some slides are easy to work on while others, like the HWH space saver is an utter nightmare. Work on an HWH slide is best left to an experienced technician who knows the HWH assemblies. There is too much that can go wrong when screwing with an HWH system and we have had our fair share of coaches come in that we had to repair because some tech thought they knew how to adjust and work on HWH slides.
The biggest concern on a chassis multiplex coach is that when you bring it to a shop for any service or repairs, the shop does not either plug it into shore power or shut OFF the battery disconnect switches if the coach is going to sit awaiting repairs.
If a Kongsberg chassis multiplex coaches sits for days on the lot with the battery switches turned ON, you run the risk of the house batteries slowing going dead and damaging the multiplex dash switch modules. These Eaton E-30 dash modules can't be powered at less than 4 VDC for more than 5 minutes according to the Eaton spec sheet.
I just recently repaired 3 damaged dash switch modules on a coach that sat at a repair shop and the batteries went dead.
Very bizarre generator problem
in Electrical Systems
Posted
When a keypad indicator light turns ON after pressing it, it ONLY means that the keypad was pressed and the Intellitec CPU acknowledged that it was pressed by turning ON the indicator light.
It does NOT mean that, in this case, the generator ever started - it was ASSUMED to have started.
Press the keypad again and the indicator light should go out.