18 minutes ago, Venturer said:

I have the manual on my computer which is handy. However, being old school, I would like to have a hard copy. Does anyone still publish one for our 06 Executive?   

If you don't have a printer to print your own copy, Staples can print it from a PDF file.  At $0.20 per page not cheap but it's an option.

You likely either have a failed Automatic Energy Selector Switch that routes AC power to either the rear AC or washer/dryer.  This Intellitec AES module is often hidden below the closet floor in the area where the aquahot heat exchanger is located.  Or, the other possibility is that if you have an energy management system in your electrical panel, the relay on the circuit board failed.  Your coach has either an energy management circuit board in your panel box or an AES module.

As for wiring diagrams, check the Downloads.  The 2007 Signature should be very close to your 2007 Dynasty.

2 hours ago, wamcneil said:

It's been a couple years since I've shopped for an inverter, but at that time, magnum and xantrex were the only vendors that I could find with dual-in/dual-out.

I think Victron now makes a dual in dual out inverter charger.  Would need to study it a bit more but it looks like it would be a direct replacement for a Magnum on a Dynasty and above coach with an inverter sub panel.

32 minutes ago, Joint Venture said:

When I purchased my coach last May it had a failed VIP SM209 board. and I replaced it with a used board from Visone RV. All is good now but I would like to have the bad board repaired so I have a spare onboard. I modified the headlight circuit so that the VIP SM209 board only operates relays for the headlight circuits. Searching the internet has put me onto Radwell and they offer replacements as well as repairing existing boards. https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/VEHICLE IMPROVEMENT PRODUCTS/VEHICLE IMPROVEMENT PRODUCTS/SM209 Anyone have knowledge of their service?

No direct experience but a Google search of reviews showed mixed results at best.  2.5 out of 5 with 33 reviews.

8 hours ago, John C said:

Hi,Frank,

I removed the J4 connector (Please see attached, please let me know if that is not j4), it made no difference on the slide behavior, but I found out that I don't have to start the engine for the slide to work, I just need to turn on the key, the slide will work.

I unplug the 5 connector wire from the board and put positive prob on the blue wire, I just connect the negative prob to to screw(please let me if I need to connect the negative prob somewhere else), (J4 is connected)

1) when the key is on : the voltage is between 48-54mv, if I remove the negative prob, the voltage is 0.6mv.

2) when the key is of : the voltage is between 1.2mv

Please advise what that mean?

Thank you

What do you think?

 

Those voltage readings are meaningless because a screw attaching the plastic case to plywood is NOT a proper ground.  You should have used the ground bus bar near the bottom of the cabinet.

With Module F J4 unplugged, since slides do NOT, move out unless the ignition is ON, most likely the issue is with configuration of the HWH control box.  To get it fixed you will need to go back to the wiring schematics for the interface wiring between the Intellitec Multiplex system and the HWH control box and configuration of this control box.  This is way to complex to solve online.  If you are versed in reading wiring schematics and troubleshooting electrical systems and want to discuss in greater details, please send me a PM.

A few comments. 1) Always park with the steer wheels straight ahead, NEVER turned.  If the front air bags lose air the tires could damage the side fiberglass.  2) When parked, the two drive axle air bags and the associated side tag air bags on the same side are connected together via the HWH or Power Gear air valve leveling system.  A control valve leak, air line leak or airbag leak would cause that side to lose air and the coach to lean.  This will also twist the coach because that side up front will have a lot more weight on the 2 steer axle air bags.  Get the leak fixed and dump airbags until it's fixed so the chassis doesn't twist.

First, if you you want to do is to disable big boy, you have 2 choices. 1) remove the small wire on the big boy solenoid or 2) unplug the 8 pin plug in RRB board #6 - this will also disable operation on the salesman switch latching relays.  Trying to remove one of the sensing wires on a battery disconnect switch is way too hard to do on your coach.  Access to the rear of these switches is via an access cover on the side of the small battery compartment and if you have batteries in there they would need to be removed for access.

Second, the blue wire is the ignition ON sensing wire but BEFORE, testing this for voltage, unplug connector J4 and see if the slides go IN and OUT with BOTH the ignition ON and OFF.

For the engine brake, if you haven't already done so, take a look at page 63 and connector M8.  From there you should be able to trace the wiring from the Jake brake switch to the engine ECM.  A shop with Cummins Insite software will be able to determine if the engine ECM "sees" if you are activating the jake brake switch.  This will isolate the problem to either an input issue to the engine ECM or an output issue from the ECM to the solenoids under the valve cover.  If you go to Cummins Quickserve, you should be able to download a wiring diagram for your engine.  The Jake brake circuit would be on the OEM side of that engine wiring diagram specific to your ISM-500.

35 minutes ago, John C said:

Hi,Frank,

Here is what I did, turn off the chassis battery by using the disconnect , then push the slideout "in" or "out", nothing happens, but if i turn on the chassis battery, I heard the sound of the motor when I push slideout "In", does that means the slide "in"  power is coming from chassis battery?

But if I push slideout "out" , nothing happens, the slideout "out" only works when I start the engine.

 

So my slideout is not working the way it is reverse what it suppose to be,  the slideout "in" only work when the engine is off and slideout "out" only work when engine is On.

 

 I do see 4 jumpers on top of the module F (please see attached) but they are not marked, so is 4th jumper from the top the "J4" you are talking about? if so, what is pin 2 ? from left or right? the are 3 pins on the 4th jumper, right now pin 2 is connected with pin 3 (assume the 1st from left is pin 1), do I connect the meter to the 1pin and 2 pin? or 2 pin and 3 pin? which pin do I connect the positive or negative probes?

Thanks!

 

Well - this is a first time that I've even seen the ignition slide lockout reversed.  Connector J4 is on the upper left of module F.  It has 3 wires.  Look closely at the circuit board and connector to see if pin numbers 1-5 are listed.  You want pin 2 and it should be a blue/red wire if the schematic is correct.  This would be your ignition input.  Unplug connector J4 and see if the slides work both IN and OUT.  Also see if you have voltage on the ignition input wire J4 pin 2 only with the ignition ON.  

On 2/17/2024 at 11:58 AM, CLIFF918 said:

I cut it out with the saws all. Did not have an effect on stability of side wall.

I'm curious - before cutting out that side wall metal support, did you look at what other structural support you had in the wall and if cutting that metal support would compromise the wall structural integrity?

If you are talking about the tie rod dust boots, they are listed with suppliers in the Parts List File on page 36.  Just search for "tie rod". 

If you are talking about replacing the tie rods, those are Dana Eaton parts and the part numbers are listed in the attached document.  Your steel axle number should match one of those listed in this Dana Eaton document.  This document is also in the Downloads files as well as the Parts List File.

Eaton Steer Axle Parts List - rr_axip-0075.pdf

On 2/17/2024 at 7:05 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Thanks....  I know folks that also made or knew about that and made the same decision.

What is REALLY frustrating, is that we have a very good, high resolution scanned copy, from the Owner's manual...or maybe they put the owner's manual "page" in the CD of a 2005 Dynasty and it is a MPX system...through and through... 

However, the 2005 Executive drawing are TOTALLY Analog or devoid of the Intellitec internal MPX system.

I have been in and out of those prints more times than I care to remember.

I just scrolled again.  I can also, hopefully draw this conclusion...

The 05 Dynasty person that has the MPX also seems to have the more complex front and rear run bays with the plethora of the Proprietary Intellitec Chasssis boards. 

The Rear run boards in the Executive seem to be a "hybrid", but are not as complex as the 2005 NON MPX Executive prints.

If you have a CD copy of your schematics and it is the PLAIN or NON MPX, then please contact @Frank McElroy.. I wish we had CD copies of them.

NOTE TO @Frank McElroy

You might want to add a "usage" note to each set of prints. The 2005 Dynasty is a FULL MPX system...  and that was NOT supposed to be the case....

Also the 2005 Executive prints are ANALOG and NOT Intellitec MPX...

This would really keep me less confused. I WILL mark my drawing folders in my laptop and then will at least have TWO sets...

Thanks...

2005 was a transition year where Monaco started to replace conventional house lighting switches with an Intellitec multiplex lighting system and electronic keypad switch modules.  As it turns out, the wiring diagrams for the 2005 Executive were for early production models with a conventional switch house lighting system.  The wiring diagrams for the 2005 Dynasty were for the late production models with the Intellitec multiplex lighting system and the electronic keypad switch modules.  Signature, Executive, and Dynasty models basically share the same wiring diagrams.

The Downloads file titles and descriptions now show the distinction between conventional and multiplex house lighting systems.

7 hours ago, John C said:

@Tom Cherry

@Frank McElroy,Frank,

Here is the picture of my RRB, I will love to find out how to fix this abnormal slideout behavior

Thank you!

 

The picture of your RRB looks just like mine and very much appears OEM. 

I want to be sure that these facts are true for your coach 1) the hydraulic pump and generator starts from house batteries and not chassis batteries, 2) slides move in ONLY with the engine OFF and 3) slides move ONLY with the engine running are correct.

If the above 3 are correct, you actually have separate issues.

To sort them out, you will need to follow the low voltage high current wiring diagram and with turning off the battery disconnect switches be sure that battery inputs to the bottom of the RRB and side of the FRB are from the correct battery source cables.  If battery trays were reconfigured, the wrong battery source could have been connected to the RRB.  On the FRB, be sure the generator and hydraulic pump cables are connected to the chassis battery cable input stud.

As for the slide outs, the ignition slide lockout is an input to the Intellitec multiplex system in the bedroom cabinet.  In this system, the Intellitec CPU is programmed to activate the hydraulic pump relay and slide OUT solenoid ONLY when the ignition input signal is OFF.  However, the slide IN can be activated with the ignition ON or OFF.  So, either someone removed the ignition lockout sensing wire or reprogrammed the CPU (highly unlikely).  Please see if you have the ignition input wire J4 pin 2 connected to the module F on the Intellitec system and test to be sure it has voltage with the ignition switch turned ON.

5 hours ago, Grey Goose said:

Where does the Alladin pick up the DC current charge and discharge amp reading for the house batteries? 

The positive cable passed through a current sensing coil just on the other side of the battery box.  Look between the large and small battery boxes where cables for the battery disconnect switches are located and you should see it.  The small wires go to the Aladdin module.

37 minutes ago, Grey Goose said:

It is a 30 amp dc to dc charger so I assume it should not have been over loaded regardless.

Good - a 30 amp DC to DC should have been just fine - no alternate abuse there.

Don't know if this was your situation but one thing to keep in mind is that the engine alternator system was basically designed to maintain house and chassis battery power.  If you used the alternator to in effect bulk charge house batteries you will significantly shorten the life of the engine alternator.  Bulk charging house batteries is to be done with the generator and the inverter/charger.

6 hours ago, John C said:

No sure if my slideout is operating on chassis battery or not.

For whatever reason my 2007 is counter intuitive,maybe something is screwed up on this coach, right now I have to start the engine in order to extend the slideout.

I can retract the slideout when the engine is off.

I would love to wire the slideout on house batteries,do you have any instructions or steps on this procedure?

Thx

See page 92 for the low voltage high current wiring diagram.

If you need to have the engine running to extend the slide outs that's NOT how the coach was wired when it left the factory.  Someone has modified the low voltage high current circuit.  Please post a picture of the interior of your RRB (Rear Run Bay) electrical box.

I doubt you'll find a reasonably priced 24 to 12 volt converter will have enough amps to run the slide hydraulic pump.  But, I'm surprised that the generator start and slide hydraulic pump are not operated from the chassis batteries.  If, not, reconfigure the RRB like an 08 Dynasty.  Also, on your coach, the slides can be closed with the ignition ON and the engine running.  When opening the slides the engine ignition must be OFF.

I posted a reply to the question.  You might want to consider replacing the big boy with a Blue Sea ML-ACR and add the dash switch option for manual control of battery boost and chassis battery charging when on shore power.

Another option to consider is to have the leveling jacks powered by the chassis 12 volt system instead of the house 24 to 12 volt converter..

Mike, I enjoyed watching your videos on the construction and shop tour years ago - they are great and very informative.

I had much the same philosophy as you did when I built my pole barn back in 2007 - some pictures are posted on page 2 of this thread.  It has a conventional shingle roof, concrete poles below grade, sandwiched 3-2x6 DF poles above with steel plates to the concrete poles, insulated interior, 100 amp electrical service, and fully sheetrocked.  I outsourced the building construction and concrete - the insulation (spray foam & fiberglass), electrical and sheetrock I did myself.  Hanging 4x12' sheets of sheetrock for the most part alone on a 15' high ceiling was the hardest part.  Wall sheetrock and taping was easy by comparison.

Building code restrictions did play an important part in the design and size.  I thought that a garage restriction was 1,000 SQFT max and at least 35 feet off the property line, but when I spoke with the building department, they said that as long as it wasn't attached to the house, it didn't have running water, didn't use it to store more than 3 vehicles or use it as a business warehouse, it would be classified as a residential storage building with a max size of 1500 SQFT, exterior height below 21" and at least 15 feet off the property line.  So, that's what I did - and no required variance approvals from my neighbors.  (The building inspector did tell me that during construction, I had one very upset neighbor who complained that it was way too big and it blocked her view of the deer in my back yard - they told her sorry - he has all the proper permits to build it.)

My biggest objective was to have an inside storage home for our new coach to keep it clean - no rodents, and never need to winterizes again.  After 18 years of winterizing gassers - I had enough.

I found that I didn't need to heat it in the winter as temps never got below 34 DF inside even with some very cold sub zero NJ winter cold snaps - the 8" thick concrete floor and spray foam/fiberglass insulation worked well.  One of my future projects is to pipe underground hot water from the house boiler to the barn but I still have that pretty low on my to-do list.  When I upgraded the home heating system before building the barn, I designed and installed a modulated 35,000 - 150,000 gas boiler in the house with up to 6 air handlers and radiant heat zones - one zone is already setup for the barn.

Street aesthetics were also important.  With the 125 foot street setback to the corner of the 1 acre lot and only the 14x14 foot door facing the street, two front and rear man doors are on the right side, 2 windows on each side, a few neighbors commented that it seemed much smaller looking from the street vs actually being up close inside.

A few folks on the forum have stayed for overnight visits.  There is enough room to park in front of the door and hook up to a 50 amp exterior pedestal without blocking any of the 3 house garage doors.

Made a lot of right decisions on this project and very happy with it.  I'd do it all again exactly the same way.

8 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Yes I do but still keep them in. Here and there I drop a sensor on the tag or worse on the dually but don't take them off too often so I live with it.

Ivan - I do the same as you.  Yes, a bit harder to install the tire sensors, but it's a whole lot better than using the braided extensions that are prone to leaking over time.

Tom - As a follow-up to our discussions, thank you for posting my offline comments.

Bottom line - if you are starting the engine or driving in very cold climates (teens DF or below) use ATF or Transynd and NOT AW46.  Your hydraulic oil cooler will thank you.

3 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

My dear wife made it to the fridge this morning just before me so when I opened the door maybe 5 minutes later the vacation mode light was off.  That would have been about 8 hours after I turned it on.  The ice maker dumped since turning on vacation mode last night, but as I was still in the bathroom when DW opened the door this am I don't know for sure if it just dumped or dumped much earlier while we were sleeping.  However it's now been 25 minutes since she opened the door and the ice tray feels frozen (I just thought about a skinny finger touch to the ice surface) and not as fresh liquid water ... implying vacation mode didn't also disable ice making.  But I think I need another test run or two before decisively concluding.

I don't believe vacation mode disables ice making.  It just stops the defrost cycle.

I believe there is a certain time window that after you press vacation mode it will stay on even if the door is reopened.  After that window, the next time the door is opened it will go back to normal operation.  I don't recall now what that time window is.  I just got in the habit of being sure it's still on if I need to open the door at night.