Frank McElroy

2 hours ago, Gary M said:

Frank I have 114 schematics titled 08 Diplomat but not sure if they are truly for the 08. Dates on drawings are early to late 07. I’ll have to go to my computer to upload them if you want to compare to the 07.

Gary, thank you for sending me your schematics.  I compared all them to the 2007 set and what you have is identical to what we are calling 2007.  The only differences are that the 2007 set has 3 pages for the index and your set has a cover page saying that the set is for 2008.  So, basically the 2007 set of wiring diagrams should also apply to 2008.  I'll update the file description.

Although we don't have a 2008 wiring diagram in our Downloads, the 2007 wiring diagram should be close.  Click on the title to get an option to download all pages in one file.

Here is a picture of the new strut part number on the coach.  It matches the invoice part number except the force is shown in newtons.  (157 Lb = 698 N) So, basically 700 N.

This is the part Monaco sent me it's a 157 Lb strut.  I'll check the part number actually on the unpainted strut.

I'd add about 4 more psi to the tag and get a reweigh.  This will give you a good idea of how much of a change in the tag PSI effects the drive and steer axles.

1 hour ago, DanVickie said:

Thank you gentleman ,!! You guys are awesome. I’ll take a closer look

now.
I have the low, med, high, one switch above countertop, which did work . As others stated in other posts, it would operate with or without calling for heat, so it would blow cold.

i assume cuz of operating from engine loop  antifreeze heat too , to heat coach .

thank you thank you !!

Yes, that is correct.  That blower should work to heat the coach with the engine heating loop.  Since the engine is heating the aquahot water, all the other heat zones should provide heat with the engine running.  However, if it's really cold outside, you still might need to run the aquahot on diesel to heat the coach while traveling.

5 hours ago, DanVickie said:

 

Hey guys, 

very similar problem, changing out fan motor for Aqua hot under kitchen sink, no power down there . Old one was making noise and finally quit, then after a couple hours , I tried old one and new one directly to battery to be sure, old one started for a few seconds , new one fine , works . Checked fuses everywhere with multi meter , all good . Have not checked relays tho, which ones do I check ? , I see a bunch in the back closet, have not seen one in wet bay as you did , but will check again for sure. Fuse in wet bay above Aqua hot good. Thanks for any help. 

 

I'm not sure if on your 2006 you have a separate fan speed switch in the galley or if your fan speed is controlled by keypads feeding input to the Intellitec multiplex system.  Attached are a few specific wiring diagrams that should help identify which system you have and how this blower motor is powered.

2006 blower motor Aqua Hot.pdf 2006_Dynasty_Wiring_Diagram p131.pdf

On 4/1/2024 at 7:17 PM, Ivan K said:

You don't need to drive but deflate all the bags some and let them go back to ride hight.  I think the manual has a writeup on it, it might say to do it couple times up and down. I would have the engine running too in case there are some leaks, so the ride high adjustment is active with plenty of air as if on the road.

Like Ivan said, when weight coach it's important to have the engine running. The system must also be in travel mode.  If the system is off, your axle weights will not be accurate.

12 hours ago, Bar SR Ranch said:

Back to the main topic of this post.

Mr Frank McElroy has more knowledge on these Monaco's and Cummins engines than I can ever imagine and has the answerers to any question asked at the tip of his tongue I am still in awe all the time.

I was in the proses of purchasing a Dynasty with the Kongsberg CCM in the fall of 2023 then discovered their issues thanks to this forum and was going to back out of the deal.

I became a member and then PM Frank and within minutes got an email response back, then within a few minutes later Frank called me and what I learned in the next 5 to 10 minutes on the phone with Frank was more than I could have ever imagined.

I sat in my office chair for a few minutes after the call ended just processing the conversation but what I was mostly thinking about was what I had learned in such a short amount of time and that this man really knows his stuff.

Again, I am still in awe the knowledge that Mr. Frank McElroy has and shares Thank You Frank.

Thank you for the very kind words. 

On this site there are a number of technical experts.  My focus is on mid 2000 and newer Dynasty and above models with Cummins engines and house Intellitec and/or chassis Kongsberg multiplex systems.  There are a lot of other members far more experienced than I on other model year coaches and systems.  That's what makes this forum great - other expert members freely share their own technical expertise.

Often folks ask - did I work for Monaco or Cummins.  The answer is no.  My knowledge is based on owning a Monaco Dynasty (bought new) over 17 years ago and doing all my own service and repairs.  (I've owned class A RV's since 1986.)  With over 60,000 miles, my coach has never seen a repair shop.  All of what I know is based on reading manuals and using that information to maintain and repair my own coach.  By training, I'm actually a PhD chemist who spent a 35 year career at Exxon (later ExxonMobil) ending as an Executive Manger in Corporate Research.  Most of my electronics background comes as being a Ham Radio operator who built my own Heathkit station in the early 70's and the microcomputer system I built in and machine code programmed in the mid 70's to get my PhD degree in electrochemistry. 

Yes, Tom Cherry and I talk multiple times a week.  We are close friends and we do share and sometimes debate solutions to technical questions posted on the forum.  I thank Tom for posting our conclusions because I often just don't have the time.

I reply offline about as much as I post online to questions for forum members.  There are times where an offline discussion is far more beneficial in transferring technical information than the back and forth online postings.

9 minutes ago, FishAR said:

Wife watches my tst tpms for me when I drive the motorhome.  She told me my silverado toad front passenger side tire was getting very hot. Pulled over at Tampa and looked things over, it cooled off, couldn't find anything wrong so we proceeded to our winter location.

That was 3 winters ago. I put new brakes on the truck, still had a brake sticking. New calipers. Still had a brake sticking. Did all this myself. Ended up being the brake line.

My neighbor told me that the inside of the brake line can deteriorate, fluid goes to the brake under pressure and pushes through but can't release and bleed pressure so the brake sticks. Changed the brake line and all was good.

Many years ago I had a similar situation.  After taking my foot off the brake pedal, the car would pull to the left.  Found the problem to be the flexible brake hose connected to the front left caliper.  In effect the interior hose liner was acting as a check valve.  It happens.

2 hours ago, Just Jim said:

Frank,  I've looked at the wiring diagrams and don't see any mention of spare wires or extra conduit?  I've purchased wire and was just fixing to run some extras, so your comment is very timely.  I've looked but have not found any.  I have two rear run boxes; one on each side.  There is so much wiring that it could be right in front of me.  Any idea what it would look like and a more specific place to check?  I've looked under the dash and don't see any spare wire.  Again, any specific location to look and what to look for?

Jim

I don't know how far back Monaco installed a spare harness and empty conduit.  On my coach I have it but it's not shown in my set of schematics.  I had to go back to an older model year to find it.  On my coach the empty grey electrical conduit is about 1" in diameter, and located up high next to the PS frame rail and accessible from behind the steer axle to in front of the drive axle.  It runs through all the storage bays.

Spare Wiring Harness.pdf

16 minutes ago, pwhittle said:

I am a big fan of the ML-ACR.

We bought our 2005 Signature seven years ago now, and I had to clean the Big Boy to make it work properly. When it failed again two years later, I switched to the ML-ACR, and have not had any issue since 2019.

i did run some wires to the front for the switch, but have since found the Spare Harness that Monaco installed, so it could have been a simpler install.

I have also installed one on our 1994 Signature, and have also helped install them on three other coaches. 
 

Intellitec makes many great products. I do not consider the BigBoy and the associated control board their best work.

Paul

I agree.  Actually I have a ML-ACR sitting on my work bench ready to replace my Big Boy the next time it needs cleaning.  I just need time to do it. 

I like being able to decide from the driver's seat when to engage and disengage it.  As for extra wiring, most Dynasty and above coaches have an open conduit from front to back for extra wiring if you already used the Monaco installed prewiring harness not already used in the RRB and under the dash.

35 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Frank, any advantage to doing this occasionally on an operational BB, when your plugged into shore power for an extended period?

I don't see much of an advantage in periodically cycling the big boy but if you do be sure to do it under little if any load.

When I'm camping, every few days I'll check the chassis battery voltage to be sure big boy is working and the chassis batteries are being charged.  When driving, I'll keep an eye on the house battery voltage to be sure the engine alternator is charging them through big boy.

When in storage and plugged in, I bypass big boy with a copper strip and unplug the 8 pin connector on the side of PCB#6.  This will charge both the house and chassis batteries and shut off power to the big boy coil.  Attached are a few pictures.

BTW, one trick to try while connected to shore power and big boy is engaged (hot) but current is not flowing through it is to cycle the chassis battery disconnect switch such that big boy disengages and re-engages.   More likely than not, you will get an internal contact good enough to get by until you have time to clean it.  Over the years, this trick has helped a number for folks get back on the road.

40 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

FWIW….  You have a much different system than most. Your BIRD (BiDirectional) or two way charging is controlled by two components.  There is an Intellitec (#6….memory) board in the rear run bay.  That feeds a pulsed (NOT a constant) 12 VDC signal to the Big Boy.  If you were to measure the “voltage” between the two small terminals, using a VOM, would “APPEAR” to be around 8 VDC. In reality….it is a full 12 or maybe 13 Volts…but it is pulsing on and off.  The pulse ON is about TWICE the off time. We’re talking maybe 50 ON/OFF pulses per SECOND….so the VOM just sort of “averages it.

The Big Boy is NOT rated for 12 - 13 VDC continous to the coil…..thus the pulsing.  NOW….as long as the Big Boy is working and “humming” or making noise….then the #6 board is fine.  

BUT…your measurements were a DEAD giveaway.  After you cleaned the Big Boy, if you measured the voltage…..the reading (to groound) would be less than a tenth or maybe TWO twnths.  NOW…the verification would be to measure the two studs….you should see less than a tenth or two.  That means NO resistance. So, genesloy speaking…..You are good to go.

NOW…here is a little more background;  there is really NO practical or financial reason to replace or remove or “demo” the Board 6 and Big Boy.  You know how to clean the BB. IF you ever had an issue with the board, we have TWO high tech members…  @Frank McElroy & @pwhittle.  They are well versed.  They can diagnose and repair most if not all the up front and rear boards.  They charge about 20% (don’t make that an exact) number as a “Candy Factory”.  Most of the techs that diagnose and send boards to them report issues and astronomical price increases.  So…that is what I hear and also know….

Next up….you need to know a little more.  Frank is an expert and I learn from him or helping others.  He and I have actually bypassed or disconnected our Big Boy when in long term storage.  That shuts down the pulsed signal and there is no load on the Big Boy coil….It can be done several ways.  Frank made a Copper buss.  I added a jumper across my two banks.  You COULD use a simple automotive jumper cable.  You only need to remove one of the small control wires to “disconnect” the coil….that saves it from being on “forever”.

Next UP.  If you have an issue….and I had one….only ONE in 15 years…..the procedure is this.  Turn off both banks…..attach a Jumper cable. Turn ON the banks.  Start the Genny or plug in.  The  let the genny or the Magnum “redharge” the Chassis.  In your case….you start the genny off the Chassis.  Some off the House.  Let them charge for maybe 30 minutes….that will, if your chassis batteeis are “OK” recharge them.

NOW….the nice thing about your Intellitec system will work or run the Boost from either bank.  The lower ends like the Camelots only work off one source.  So, you always have a boost.  You CAN follow the procedure in the manual (read both sections 8 & 9) and then put a surface charge on a bank.  

All this to say….if you rip out the system and go with the ML-ACR….then it is a chore to run the wiring upfront.  Maybe not for all… but, it would not be worth it for me.  If I had a Dynasty….I doubt I would ever consider it…. if you understand and properly maintain the Big Boy….it is very versatile and robust.  I don’t recall  any Dynasty owners that have done that…..but who knows.  most that install the Blue Seas ML-ACR do not have a first class system like you do and are lower food chain and it IS an upgrade for them.

Now you know…..the rest  of the story…

 

His Big Boy was corroded.  He had almost a 2 Volt drop.  That would severely reduce the amps…

Attached is a picture of my test jig after repairing the big boy and salesman switch circuit board PCB#6 with big boy connected and the pulsed output going to big boy connected to the scope. 

One side of the big boy coil is fed by a constant 12 volts and the other side is pulsed from 12 VDC to ground for about 2/3 the time.  This gives an average of 8 VDC across the big boy.  Strong enough to keep it engaged but to too strong to burn up the coil.  The pulsing signal is what causes the hum. 

When you press the battery boost switch, it holds the pulsed ground signal to a constant ground and the hum goes away.  If you hold the battery boost for more than about ten minutes, you run the risk of burning up the coil.  But, in most cases, when you need the battery boost, the coil would likely start by being cold.

That's how it works.

Likely you have a big boy that needs to be cleaned.  Big boy connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries so that they can be charged while on shore power with both battery disconnect switches turned ON.  What is the chassis battery voltage?

Thanks Tom - for future use, here is a link to a new file in our Downloads.  The Operating Instructions and Reset Procedure are now in one document.

5 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

I see from his post that he had the NSA system. I have their system also which is a cable operated surge brake system which I do like very much. From I read the toad was not hooked to the coach and his wife was driving it. Since it seems that it was newly installed I can’t help but wonder if the actuator cable or the breakaway cable could have jammed but I would think that the dealer would have found that during the repair

Steve, thanks for the clarification.  I'm not familiar with the NSA system.  However, it sure sounds like it was partially applying the brakes.

Thank you for sharing this information. 

What supplemental braking system did you have on the Equinox?

I would share my previous post with your mechanic.  I basically explains why the light comes on and what needs to be done to troubleshoot the warning light.  The mechanic will need to use Cummins Insite Software and look at the engine protection parameters with the engine running and the warning light on.  They will then be able to see the parameter readings and the acceptable upper and lower limits.  One or more parameters will be out of range.  Then it's a matter fixing the issue, bad sensor or bad wiring. 

4 minutes ago, searchnk9 said:

What are the five conditions?

Please reread my post.

3 hours ago, JTerry said:

All of my light switch pads remain illuminated. Where is the control to turn off the illumination? Also if the battery disconnect switches for the engine and house are turned off, does the charger continue to keep the batteries charged when hooked up to shore power?

Dick B is correct - just press the master keypad once to turn ON and OFF all keypad backlights.  If you press and hold the master about 3 seconds all interior lights will will turn OFF.  If you press and hold about 6 seconds, all interior lights will turn ON. These are features of a coach with an Intellitec CPU lighting system.  On your coach you do NOT have backlight switch button - that's found on coaches without an Intellitec CPU because there is no master keypad feature.

As for charging the batteries with the battery disconnect turned OFF, the answer should be yes BUT only for the house and not the chassis batteries.  If you want both to charge, big boy must be working and you need both battery disconnect switches turned ON for that to happen.

The Warning light is a signal from the engine ECM alerting the driver that an out of range condition exists in one or more of the set engine protection parameters.  This may or may not set a trouble code.  What needs to be done is to look at the engine history data using the Cummins Insite software paying attention to the history of coolant temperature, coolant level, oil pressure, intake manifold temperature, and engine overspeed (there may be other parameters that I missed).  Keep in mind that you could also have a bad sensor giving a false reading. Likely one of these parameters are running too high or too low as defined in the engine ECM parameters and the warning light comes on to alert the driver that you exceeded an engine protection parameter.  On newer engines, this would be logged in the engine abuse history report but I don't think Cummins had that feature in 2002.

There was a good discussion about this back about 4 years ago.  

Take a look at inactive codes.  Likely that's where you'll find out what turned on the engine warning light.

14 hours ago, dandick66 said:

I didn’t stay at a Holiday Inn, but I did help Al Gore invent the Internet. Haha. (I hope that was acceptable, Tom.) can’t remember where I found that file to download.  I might have got it from Medallion.  

I understand that you want to hear the alarm, but remember, that alarm will go off for a variety of scenarios.  Driving back from Florida in the rain a few years ago my entry door step switch got wet and set off the alarm.  Listening to the beeping every 2 seconds for hours on end is not pleasant.  Another time I had the “yellow triangle “ illuminate and alarm sound.  It cleared and then did it again.  I discovered that my ACM (after treatment control module) was on the fritz.  It wasn’t a critical problem, but again, that alarm was driving me crazy for hours.  I contacted Medallion several times by phone and email, but no one responded to the emails or returned the calls.  I finally got a human and explained my problem.  She got someone who was somewhat familiar with the system, but he said the guy who did all the work was no longer with the company.  He said he’d send me what info he could find and that he would contact the other guy.  Well, I never heard from the “other guy”.   I’ll go through my emails and find what they sent me.

As far as buying another board, if it was me, I wouldn’t do it.  There are a bunch of other options to get all of the data the Medallion displays, and more.  I started out with Scangauge D, then purchased BlueFire.  I also have the Servicemaxx software.  That is the official Navistar diagnostic software.  It has more bells and whistles than you can imagine.  You do have the Maxxforce 10, right?

Dan - Thanks for sending me the 4 new files.  I added them to the existing 4 files we already had on the Medallion Gauges in our File Downloads.  Here is a link to the set of 8 files.