veraken
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Posts posted by veraken
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3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:
Here is a wiring diagram that I printed off the instructions, if you go to one the links to a Bluesea there will be complete set of instructions on how to wire.
I used the Auxillary start wire that controlled the old Isolation relay from the dash switch, this is what switches the ML-ACR. I also used the ground wire. I then had to run a new wire for the LED function from the ML-ACR all the way to the dash, this is designated by the yellow wire.
The rest of the wires on ML-ACR I did not use. But if you want to disable the ML-ACR during starting and or while running the generator it would be an easy add on.
The wires that were attached to my BIRD are not needed, unless you want to disable the generator, you'd simply connect the generator wire from the BIRD to the Isolation #1 brown wire. For me this would be ~2' of wire and a couple connectors.
Thanks. My concern was about the extra wires from the BIRD and what to do with them.
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On 9/17/2021 at 8:31 AM, jacwjames said:
I saw no downside to installing this as it would replace the Lambert, BIRD, and Isolation relay.
When you replace/remove the BIRD, where do you reconnect the wires (i.e. genset, ignition, solenoid, etc.)? Do you have a wiring diagram?
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13 hours ago, JDCrow said:
Finished up the headlights. Tackling the entry and the inverter/battery
Looking good. What headlights and turn signals did you purchase? Where did you get them.
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2 hours ago, throgmartin said:
I have been doing things the quick easy way. As the ballasts burn out I bypass them and install 12 V LED tubes and call it good. I tried the strips once and found it to be a royal PITA trimming the strips, sticking them down and then wiring each strip. I found it easier to remove the ballast, butt connect the wires and throw the tubes in. I can convert a light in 15 minutes or less now.
The tubes I got from a member ( Jim Gritch ) who sells them through his company. I really like them as the deflectors for the tubes can be rotated to direct the light where I want it.
Can you post a link to purchase these?
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Try this link. Per their website, they have 4 in stock.
https://www.truckspring.com/products...7f5djqkazerawe -
Not sure these will work on a 12V system. Went to your Lowes link and looked at the Q&A/Reviews for this product (18") and found this:
"You are correct, our LED tubes are not compatible with every ballast, and they are not compatible with 12-volt RV ballasts. For any future issues/questions, please don't hesitate to call us directly at 1-800-435-4448; we'll be glad to assist."
GE Lighting, a Savant company -
11 hours ago, Dr4Film said:
I had them in all six tires of my Windsor for many years until 2019 when I went to replace the four drive tires I switched over to Balance Masters as the cost was only a little bit more than the Dyna Beads with shipping to my house in Florida. My steers were replaced in 2017 and still have Dyna Beads in them but once they need changing I will have Balance Masters installed.
What was the reason you went with Balance Masters vs Centramatics ?
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12 hours ago, Steven P said:
I thought I'd post an update after adding foam gaskets to my ACs and also drilling holes in the shroud where holes were optional to allow the hot, fan blown air to escape easier. Much better!! Yesterday the heat index here was just over 100 and the bedroom was actually cycling on/off staying at 72 degrees. The front unit ran the whole time but kept it comfortable around 77 deg. My front area has always been harder to keep cooler like all these motorhomes. The one thing I could use some help with that has started since I made these changes is I have a drip from only the front AC. When I added the foam, I checked it over good and saw no blockages. When I remove the inside cover, the drip appears to be condensation coming off the blower housing. I tightened the 4 housing bolts w/no success in stopping the drip. I haven't tried opening the register fully at the AC to dump the air there as it gets so much louder. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Didn't know there were locations for optional holes. Any pictures?
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Here is a document for the Windsor & Dynasty that may help/
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I replaced my 160 amp Leece Neville 2824LC with a 200 amp Delco Remy 28SI. The install was fairly simple except on the DR you don't connect the excite wire since it is self exciting. I had my old LN rebuilt and carry it as a spare.
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35 minutes ago, Paul A. said:
Thanks for the suggestion. I call all three, and they all gave me the same answer. I need to get the info off the top/bottom plate and the air bay itself which I can't do.
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Just started our latest journey and one of my air bags developed a small leak. I'm trying to find a shop in the Kansas City area that can do the work to replace all 8 springs. Any recommendations would be appreciated. To minimize our lost time, I would like to order in advance the needed airbags. Does anyone have the part numbers for the air bags on a 1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial (RR8S chassis)? Thanks in advance.
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I also added the foam tape to the AC unit itself. This is what I used
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-1-in-x-13-ft-Expanding-Foam-Tape-Weathership-EF41/310655227
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This is the contactor I purchased. It's rated at 225 amps and is continuous duty.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007W2NBAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Here are the Splendid Training Manuals for units pre and post 2002 which will help.
Splendide Training Guide.pdf Splendide Training Manual Pre 2002.pdf
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I believe the switch you are looking for is a Delco D1588 which you can get from any auto parts store.
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There wer several residential refrigerators that would fit my current opening with only minor mods. I decided on a Frigidaire FFTR1022QB which, once removing the doors, fit thru my door opening. (current model FFET1022UB)
I did a ton of research before replacing my Norcold RV refrigerator and this one came out #1 by far. If you plan to make the conversion, here are some things to consider.
1. These fridges are not built-ins and will require clearance for air circulation. The Frigidaire needs only an inch on either side, which is probably all you'll have anyway. The back only requires 2" clearance. Other brands wanted far more. Don't be tempted to skip that. They do call for 12" on top, which is impossible for a MH. Instead I installed fans (see #2 below).
2. Operating temperature. Other brands I looked at said their fridge wouldn't operate below 60 or above 90 degrees, and warned against using in a garage. No such restriction on the Frigidaire. Just keep it between 10 and 110 degrees, per the manual.
3. It fit my existing opening with only minor modification.
Installation:
1. I installed a separate 120v outlet controlled by a switch inside the MH so that I could easily turn the unit off when not needed without going outside to pull the plug (some units do not have an on/off switch).
2. I chose not to seal off the existing outside openings. I put a screen on the lower opening and installed 3ea. 12v fans in the upper vent to assure good air circulation. I used the 12v wiring from the old Norcold and put the fans on a thermally controlled line with a separate switch inside my MH.
3. In the back, I anchored the unit by putting 2 lag bolts through the bottom metal rails of the refrigerator into the flooring.
4. Inside, I attached (using 3m 3M Scotch 4910 VHB Tape 2 sided tape) 2 metal brackets to the top of the refrigerator and then screwed these to the wood above the refrigerator. I then trimmed around the perimeter of the fridge with black plastic L channel which I purchased from Display Products online ( Extrusions by Display Products Online). This can be purchased with the tape already attached.
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Look in the Downloads section. I uploaded the Firestone Aire Spring Replacement Guide which will help you decided which airbag is the correct replacement.
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Just ordered the following item which looks simple and relatively inexpensive. Missing the voltmeter, but can always use a voltmeter if needed.
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Thanks !!
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On 6/16/2020 at 2:42 PM, Dennis H said:
I always check the pedestal before plugging in. I also use the Hughes Autoformer. I made, probably the same tester as John that I use. If anyone is interested, I'll see if I can find the parts list and instructions. I have them in a pdf file somewhere. I purchased everything at a local Home Depot and it wasn't very expensive. It's saved me a couple times already. I also found a 50amp plug at a campground wired as a 30amp. Yeah, I made them change it out. If someone's interested, let me know and I'll go search my log files......Dennis
I'd be interested in making the pedestal tester you made. Could you please post the parts list and instructions to make one. Thanks!
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Take a look at this video
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Cut wire from steering column??
in Electrical Systems
Posted
Here is the wiring diagrams for a 2004 Imperial, Scepter, Camelot. Hope it helps.
2004 HR Imperial Wiring Diagram.pdf