Ivylog

Well this is a first! Yes, we own energy hogs that use 15 to 20 amps DC when dry camping. A residential is 8 of those amps, but only 40% of the time. You can decrease 10 amps by turning off the bottom GFI in the inverter panel when you go to bed… kills all the AV stuff.

 The best $180 you can spend is on an additional 100 amp charger to decrease your generator run time. Power it off the block heater outlet.

Have you thought about the 2 vent holes you’ll have to cut in your slide to vent a 1210? Even a new one is still a fire hazard. I put way too many $$ into keeping a 1200 going before wising up.

3 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

my inverter is the Magnum 2000 watt.   turning off the power is what I have been doing, and that's because I just didn't know. 

The only thing running while driving I am assuming is the fridge or anything plugged in.  

 

 

yes that is the model..  is that enough power?

 

More than double what the refrigerator needs and it’s a MSW inverter. The microwave will use 3/4th of its power. If it wasn’t a Samsung, then another smaller PSW inverter would be a good idea to power a refrigerator with the more normal AC motor/compressor.

7 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

  I'm going to run out to the rv garage and see which inverter I have,  back in a minute.

 

Likely a Magnum ME2012 

Just now, Gweedo said:

I have two outlets behind the fridge, one is connected to the GFI and that one is also on when the inverter is on.  I should show 114 volts on the meter when no shore power or genny is running, is that correct

114 plus or minus 6. Hopefully on the plus side.

Should have asked which inverter you have??? I leave mine on all the time but it only inverts when there’s no 120 power into it. When there’s 130V power it passes the power through to the microwave, some outlets (TV) and to the refrigerator because it’s plugged into the outlet from the inverter.

A Samsung has a DC compressor so it runs well on a MSW.

Transfer switch will only connect to one source so having both powered will not hurt anything.

Turning the inverter on (not sure why you’d turn it off) isn’t going to change anything… the transfer switch in it will still pass power through.

If you only use a inverter to power a refrigerator (not likely) and if the current inverter is a MSW and you are not powering a Samsung, then another 1000W PSW inverter would reduce your power usage BUT unless you dry camp often, not worth the effort.

On 11/19/2022 at 10:18 PM, bgfleck said:

Yes, no luck

Only 10” long.

I replaced with a cleat cover and added LED panels plus a strip above.

Check the pin breakers on your inverter.

1 hour ago, Yoaks5 said:

So that's my question will doing that cause  any damage to the motor? 

Hasn’t in 39K miles that I can tell although I’ve been told there’s a cheaper way… metal freeze plug in the EGR tube where it bolts to the intake manifold.

With no EGR, the exhaust gas is going to be hotter so you do not want to lug your engine… manual keep the RPMs up if necessary.

Complicated trimming system and not sure I’d spend $1000 to fix. I remove a S-T-+ until I could trim it on the fly as it made driving noticeable tiring.

On 3/30/2023 at 9:15 AM, Yoaks5 said:

I'm curious of your and other members thoughts on the ugly fix. I've been thinking about getting one for my Detroit Diesel 60

It’s probably just a $150 resistor that tricks the computer into thinking you’re at 10,000’ closing the EGR valve. I’ve read it sometimes turns the check engine light on but doesn’t derate the engine.

1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:

Although an interesting concept, keep in mind that making large changes to the ride height will put more stress on the drive shaft U-joints.  If the front is lowered too much, steering will be limited due to body clearance.

My point was KISS

“I’d love to do a electronically controlled Air suspension so that I can vary the ride height as it's driving. Drop the suspension height as you pick up speed, for that road hugging handling and improved aerodynamics.”

Mount 3 of these instead of the ride height rods. Have the lowered fully retracted so they are equalize the length.

There’s another aux air post with 4 pages below your post. Near the end of page 4 I posted info about my pump and what I was replacing it with. Adapting to the air output was the hardest part. If doing again I would put a barbed fitting in a short section of the yellow line.

A 03-04 Executive will be close enough or a 03 Navigator even closer.

https://library.rvusa.com/brochure/03Executive.pdf

https://recreationalvehicles.info/2004-monaco-the-executive/amp/

https://www.rvroundtable.com/wp-content/uploads/holiday-rambler/Navigator/2003.navigator.pdf

3 hours ago, Will52 said:

When we are on shore power we turn off our inverter JS 

That’s fine BUT the micro and some outlets are still powered through it…has a transfer switch in it.

Unless you are actually bidding on an item, you will not see the last bid if it sells. Pice hasn’t updated since .42

52 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yep, that would certainly do the job!

Top up tires with that as well?

Supposedly 150 psi but using the coach air is easy as I have front and rear outlets.

Decided to remove and inspect my aux compressor from behind the front axle because it took for ever to build pressure and it’s very noisy. All of the inside is black due to poor filtering of the air and the cylinder is scored badly. Honed it and sanded the lip of the piston. Still just as noisy and I’ve already mounted another compressor up front next to the generator. Has to be a better location and it’s a lot quicker than the Power Gear.

I would start at the steering column switches.

Length of the door is the important thing, not which year.

Please post what it sells for. I see it’s currently at $15K but the insurance company has a reserve price on it.

Both front and rear? 

1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:

It's a good thing you cleaned the internal reed valve.  If you installed an external check valve, the air volume between the external check valve and the piston head would have significantly lowered the maximum output pressure of the pump.

Guess I’m going to have to think about the lower pressure???