Ivylog

36 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Isn't that fitting for pressurizing the suspension from a tow truck for towing? 

- bob

Yes, but it has 120+ psi on it.

Hope you have better luck with LED strip lights than I have…reduced output and multiple chips out in a couple hundred hours. I agree with Loel’s comments about cob’s as I tried them in a couple of puck lights. Burned much hotter than the 5050 size chips I normally use and one melted a solder joint.

Since the energy savings going to LED is only 50%, I haven’t upgraded the only one I have in this MH. Previous Dynasty had several and instead of strips, I used 48 SMD 5050 panels…3 per fixture. If you add a couple of drops of super glue to the 3M on the corners or every 6” on the strips, they’ll stay in place.

Passenger side under front cap. Moving generator slide helps a little. It’s a male Type C quick connection.

Because of poor service of LED strips, I put 3 48 SDM 5050 panels in.

Have you changed the position of the step switch next to the door by accident…step won’t retract with it off?

While under there check that the 3 bolts that hold the motor are there and tight. Fortunately you do not have any plastic gears but everything is exposed.

Even after having Josam’s work on my air leaks, I still have very little air in my tanks the next morning. Still took several minutes at 1200 rpm to get above 100 psi.

On our trip out West I finally isolated a leak between the compressor and the air dryer… hard to find it with the engine running and doesn’t leak with it off. While Monaco tried to support it, it still rubbed on the support above the transmission… right side of 1st picture. While the loop in the line made it long enough to cut the bad section off, it’s also the reason it rubbed a hole in it. 
Put a temporary patch on it using Rescue Tape and a split water hose and 5 spiral clamps. This worked for several days until I could cut the bad section off and reuse the end by cutting the crimping off. Clamped it on the line with 2 spiral clamps until I could order the correct screw on fitting… last picture.

If you are under your rig, take a look at this air line and how it’s supported above the transmission.

I would do a Google search of “how does the Monaco bigboy work” as it seatches better than the search feature on here.

I disable my brake lights while using the Jake Brake (removed fuse in the FRB) as I’m not stopping most of the time. If actually stopping I’ll lightly apply the brakes.

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Did you use 'Rescue Tape' under that garden hose?

Should have explained better: put a fair amount of E6000 glue over the hole and into the SS braiding. Wrapped about 3” wide of Rescue tape around the hose before putting the split water hose  over all of it. Got motivated to put the correct size spiral camps I’d bought on since originally posting this.

While on our trip out West, it took longer than normal to build air pressure in the morning and took more rpms to get to 120 psi. While Monaco tried to support the SS braided air line above the transmission that runs from the compressor to the air dryer, it could still vibrate and wear a hole in the line.
Had to grind the SS burs off so my patch of tape and split water hose might seal. Used all the serial clamps I had and while not pretty, it didn’t leak.

While under there check all the hose supports you can see and make sure they can’t move.

I would try larger diameter screws… drill the 2 holes in the bracket larger. I would also fill the holes on the MH with epoxy and put on the bigger screws… don’t over tighten and let the epoxy cure.

I don’t understand why you replace perfectly good fabric… there’s enough unused after you cut the used off (3 of the 4) and have a canvas shop re-sew all 4 sides with UV thread. Have done this on 3 rigs for $144. The large LR slide might be worth buying new as you can only cut off 75% of the used… but one if the rigs is at 9 years with some of the used still in good shape (19 years total).

HELL NO!!! While I recommend oil samples, with that few miles it’s not going to tell you much. I take a sample around 12,000 miles to see how much longer I can go… likely another 8,000 miles and 3 years. Anyone changing annually on an engine that works hard, not driven 3 miles to church, is wasting $$.

Take 2 straight slot screwdrivers and pus the blue plug back in.

I haven’t done this mod and my dash AC has its own electric fan on the condenser mounter behind the front axle.

Amazon has a better price on the Tstat.

Twomed made his own controller 13 years ago out of a relay and a temperature sensor.

The Temp sender is a Summit Racing part # PRF 30110 200 degree sender. It is a N/O switch so open when below 200 then it closes and provides the ground for the relay. It stays closed until 185 then opens again. This just turns the fan on and off hydraulically by actuating he existing solenoid switch... the round thing with the big nut on the end. 
The relay is to provide the amps necessary to move the ball in the current solenoid… protect the temp sensor added to the engine. I found this on EBay.

The above fun times moved the I aught to find a fan motor to I bought one. Based on different #s for the motor on a 05 Exe (picture posted previously and below) I searched and found a new one on EBay. $320 delivered is pretty cheap insurance and hopefully having one will guarantee I won’t need it.

NW RV Supply has one for $1200.   https://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/sauer-danfoss-hydraulic-fan-motor-551101309210/

I looked up my fan motor # as I doubted a 97 would be the same as a 09 having compared a 04 Dynasty (1st picture) to our 08 Nav…2nd. My # ends in 309-210, NOT 308-210. Need to make sure what model # you have??? 3rd picture is a model # I’ve tried to research as it might be the correct one, BUT not sure.

The Delco geared starter on my ISX got slower and slower, even using the boost. Replaced with a Denso geared starter and as a test, I tried starting using just one battery. All 3 would start it individually. Not sure how a smaller motor will spin it faster, but it does. 
First time I went to put it on, the fewer teeth stopped me from doing it. Turns out the teeth are off center and what I bought was correct… a Denso R5 428000-4440.

Michelin gave me a trucker’s gauge 20 years ago before I swore I’d never buy another Michelin… still using it… that may change.
Recently upgraded from a P Pro after 18 years… was getting close to needing new sensors. Won a $99 Action on EBay for TST 507 with 12 sensors… display brightness would not increase in sunlight. Splurged and bought the larger 770 display ($160). A lot easier to program than a P Pro and you can change the batteries. Haven’t used so not sure the additional temperature info will be a plus.

Instead of going through multiple steps to cut power (including solar) to the CPU to reboot the system, what about just unplugging all the plugs on the CPU?

On 6/11/2023 at 2:02 PM, 96 EVO said:

I wouldn’t add 5 psi to the tag. I liked these weight’s better:

Front - 14,100 (15,160 rating)

Drive - 23,140 (23,000 rating)

Tag - 6260 (10,000 rating)

EBay 

If you don’t know how many amps your BMSs are, I would use the boost for several minutes to top off the engine batteries but disconnect before actually starting.
The size (amps and cost) of the BMS is often overlooked… the cheaper the battery the smaller (cheaper) the BMS. In building my own Lithiums I went with larger BMS and my combined amps is 1000… will use the boost when starting.

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Yes.

Combined with the tag axle I'm running about 24,500lbs on the rear, out of 29,000lbs capacity.

That's without the bike on the lift.

"IF" I were ambitious, I could move my sliding storage tray from the front, to the rear storage bay, and move heavier items farther back.

A Highway bill in 2013 made 24K axles legal on MHs and Buses. Yes there’s so toll roads in the BE that have a 30 K limit. I turn on the “ truck must enter sign at some weight stations that weigh you on the fly as I blow bye.