Ivylog

At 13 years on our previous 04 Dynasty I used a sledgehammer as a backer and a heavy hammer to tighten up the center rivet off a ladder. At 20 years it’s still in the family and last year I hand to bend the little tit up some more so it didn’t get too straight making it very hard to close. About every 5 years I have to bend the portion that sticks out a little to make it harder to close. Why people replace it when a little bending or pounding on the pivot confuses me.

Pitcure is if the little tit that keeps the arms from getting too straight to close. By bending up  (with a pipe wrench) the end that sticks out, you can increase the force necessary to close… doesn’t take much.

16 hours ago, Kent Madison said:

it ended up being this temperature switch. Tapped on it and it started cycling like it should.  Thanks everyone for the help.

I take the plug off that and insert a 15A fuse in the plug bypassing it so the compressor runs all the time. Yes, it will freeze up the evaporator BUT out West it usually takes 7+ hours before the airflow decreases enough to notice. In the East it can be 4-5 hours so I turn the AC off with the fan on high for 15-20 minutes (still get cool air as it defrosts) and then turn the AC back on…rarely have to run the generator,

EBay 

Don’t make the same mistake I did of putting way too much money into a NoCold 1200  because of Boondocking misinformation about a residential refrigerator. As others have said, $5000 will buy a lot of solar and lithium batteries, not to mention the money saved by dry camping. One 100AH Lithium battery will run a residential refrigerator 24 hours and can be bought for $200.

FRB

Since you do not dry camp NO… no payback!  We Snowbird in SE Fla with 900W of solar (diy for $1200) and 600AH of Lithiums (diy for $1800 2 years ago). ..$3000 total. Even dry camping in the summer for 40-50 days puts the payback at 10+ years which will likely age me out.

In the winter I’ll shut the 50A breaker off inside and use the inverter to power things  unless AC is necessary, like today plus doing laundry. Any time a high amp item is used for more than 2 minutes, I turn the 50A back on until finished as the batteries will not make it through the night unless I turn the TV/Sat receiver breaker off. Most winters this works fairly well but this winter with all the rain and overcast days I can only turn the charger off… leave the 50A on 24/7.

During the summers I’ve had mixed results with the solar being enough to not run the generator. This past summer (hottest on record) was one of the best (dispute the hype about it being hot) as we were able to park in the sun unlike most summers where we park in the shade. In 6 days I might have to run the generator 3-4 hours, mainly when using the induction or topping the batteries off at night. I did shut the TVs off which negates fast forwarding through the commercials.

I went  10 years on the rears of my 04 Dynasty based on detailed inspections and then put on the rear of a 10 wheel dump truck for another 5 years…295 Goodyear Marathons made in Germany. Replaced with 11R22.5 Hankooks which are the same diameter and a very common truck tire.

Replaced the 5 year old cracking 295 Michelin’s on the new to me 08 Navigator with 11Rs and 315 Continentals on the front.

Find the fuse block (10-12 fuses) sometimes in the bath room, rear closet or next to the 120V breaker panel… fuse is on it.

My engine not shutting off was caused by the BIRD back feeding power to the rear start board.

Shade tree Dick…I’ve previously posted that instead of repacking wheel bearings (or converting to oil bath) I just add half a cup of  90 gear oil to soften the grease. Been doing this to all my trailers for decades. Thought it would be a good time to check the condition of the ones I did a couple years ago, mainly because of the problems Jeff Macklin is having after having a shop replace a wheel seal on a oil bath conversion. It got so hot, the oil caught on fire… likely caused by the bearing preset was too tight. 

While my grease was soft, there wasn’t as much oil as I expected having put half a cup in 2+ years ago… lost a little oil taking the cap off and decided to add some more. When I work on the front tires I use a pry-bar to check for play in the bearings before taking the wheel off. I’m of the opinion, if it’s not broke, leave it alone.

Hydraulic system for the slide’s doesn’t have a filter… located under the steps. It’s 12V motor may not have a full 12V. I’d start there.

Under one of the steps you should have a plastic bin. Remove it and check from above.

Watched the AZExpert video above and no wonder his 4 AGMs won’t last through the night even running the generator 6+ hours… his inverter was drawing 100 amps. I’m unhappy when mine is at 10 amps during the night. He says 120V lights… who still uses 120V incandescent lights? Don’t get me wrong as I like this guy but when it comes to electrical???

Silicone spray the rubber seals.

Yes, but why start it? Do northern farmers start their tractors during the winter??? Combines probably sit for 8+ months without being started… only in the MH world do some start every month.

2 hours ago, Jaybird95 said:

Do you know which fuse and maybe a picture of the location?

2 hours ago, PTTech said:

What did you use for a remote temp sensor? Are you still running without the dc-dc charger?

Dual emote grill temp sensors… one on alternator and other on top radiator hose.

Yes, still no DC-DC and I don’t disable the BigBoy.

It may be the headlight switch but I’d check the J12 connection on the VIP Smart Wheel first.

Yes, I read air only but some Beavers had hydraulic leveling… cylinders between the rails and the axles. Definitely not part of the Sport shocks which are electrical controlled.

5 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Pivoting door looks great,

2” pipe nipples, one poured in the concrete with floor flanges. Adjustable cable from upper one to the bottom left. Had to shorten the turnbuckle as I added the Hardy board to the outside of the 6” door. Haven’t had to install the propane heater even with single digets and not getting above freezing for 6 days.

Z, it looks like the house is 3-4’ higher than the shop helping to minimize it looking taller than the house? I did much the same although I built a MH bay that’s part of the house… have a 2000+ sqft shop 100 yards away. While I could easily get around both ends of our 42’ Dynasty, the 45’ requires sliding under the mirrors when the door is closed. The MH bay is in front of the carport.

Concret drive is on clay, 4” thick (5” at the edges for 1’) saw cut every 10’. Bay is much the same with 5” where the tires go and a center drain. Put 4” SS tubes in the 6” walls for the generator and AHot exhausts… have use the generator one when back feeding power to the house.

Take a small amount of what’s in it and mix an even smaller amount of ATF in it. In 12 hours has it separated… I doubt it.

In the 70s (and currently) I used off road (not premium) diesel that was 10 years old… it doesn’t go bad.

Your 3012 will charge Lithiums using the AGM2 battery setting… no need to replace plus for $200 you can buy a ME-RC50L display that lets you create a Lithium profile. Only issue is it won’t bulk charge until the Lithium’s get down to 40% SOC using the AGM2. I’d already added a $175 additional 100A charger to reduce the generator run time when dry camping. I set to put out 14V once I went Lithium instead of a 3 stage charger. Most of the current $2/AH Lithiums have a weak BMS so yes using the boost is best to charge the engine batteries, but I would still use it when cranking.

My alternator doesn’t overheat when charging my 600AH of Lithiums as it’s only putting out 60 amps. Yes, this is contrary to what you read but even starting at 20% SOC with the solar off, still 60 amps.

I disconnected the Safe-T-+ that came on our 08 until I could make it adjustable on the fly… post on this here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html

On really windy days it didn’t have enough adjustment so I moved the mounting bolt closer to the activator last year. 

Doubt your leak is the lift pump since it’s leaking when the engine running… should be suction on it, not pressure.