Ivylog

Steve P, there’s a definite difference in the amount of grease… second set of pictures has more grease as pictured below. I would take the grease from that cap and push into the outer bearing on the other side which needs attention.
Yes, I’m of the school of not broke, leave it alone and just adding gear oil is “Shade Tree”, but I’ve been successfully doing it for 50 years instead of repacking. As you can see in the second picture of my axle, the grease is very pliable and more likely to come in contact with the rollers.

I decided to pull the front axle cap that I put half a cup of 90 in, instead of repacking 3 years ago. Slight amount of liquid seeped out and the grease was soft and pliable. Decided to put a little more 90 in. 
Another member (on FB) suggested putting the oil bath caps on so you can see how much gear oil you’re putting in and later, how pliable the grease has become…pretty good idea.

Tealize doing this is “Shade Tree” and not for everyone or anyone. Might want to read my post above.

6 minutes ago, Steve P said:

I just re-read the manual... it says to change the rear differential fluid every 250,000 mi or 3 years.    It may not have EVER been changed!

Thanks,

Steve

Guess the 04 Dynasty (still in the family from new) is 17 years behind on changing and next year will be 18, and the next…20 years behind. Might get motivated to send off a oil sample or not.

2 hours ago, JDCrow said:

This is the next road I need to spend time with. I hear about the dreaded Kongsberg coaches, and the above James at AZ expert goes on and on about making sure there is a “green” board in the front electrical bay 

Fortunately, Monaco bought a bunch of extra 06 engines. Dynasty and above have a true Jake brake.

You do not want a green board, you want multiple green boards as the second picture is the FRB with a Konsberg green board.

36 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

I’ve thought about this, adding weight to the front. Country Coach also weighted their fronts 

How can you tell other than looking for DPF filters if an 08 coach as an older engine? This is new to me

I made the salesman send me a picture of the exhaust system confirming there wasn’t any electrical connections before flying 2000 miles. I’d say my engine made in 12/06 is red and the only muffler looking thing doesn’t have wires into it

Some Beaver 34’ DPs had a large steel weight up front in addition to the generator. Don’t let her ride in a tag axle coach.
I made sure my 08 had a 06 engine as DPFilters started on 07 engines.

Anyone who dry camps often needs to spend $200 on an additional 100A charger… best$$ you can spend. Mount it above the RRBOX and power it from the block heater outlet. I use the PowerMax 100 (mount so you can get to the 2 holes to change its settings) so when you go Lithium you can turn the smart charger function off… constant 16V.

Didn’t know any (100 and 600 don’t) had solid lines. Yes flexible lines makes replacing the nozzle fairly easy.

What’s the height inside the slide out?

Unless you dry camp often, the AGM2 setting is excellent for Lithium that should be stored at 50-70% SOC. The AGM2 setting won’t start charging until the Lithium gets down to 30% and back up to 99%.

Ypu can buy a new Magnum display with Lithium settings for less than $200. If you only dry camp occasional, you can charge Lithiums by forcing a rejuvenation  cycle in the LA setting. The BMS in the Lithium will stop the charging when they are 100% SOC.

21 hours ago, det944 said:

Ivylog, is your dedicated genset battery wired to the studs on the back of the genset making it parallel to the chassis Batts or totally independent? Just thinking how best to add one.

Indirectly… wired to the stud on the side of the FRB for the generator so Yes in parallel with a disconnect switch.

I was surprised to learn the generator in my 08 Navigator starts off the engine batteries. Like many, I had to use the boost or even start the engine to get it to turn over fast enough to start even with 3 engine batteries. Solved the problem by adding a battery next to the generator.

Decades ago I asked a big engine rebuilder which oil. He said Delo 400 were the cleanest followed by Rotella T4 having a slight buildup. Since I had engines that sat a fair amount went with T4… Sam’s $300 for a 55 gallon barrel.

Currently need to take a sample and see how much longer before changing… at 10,000 miles and 2 years. Last time I went to 15K (could have gone longer) but was leaving on a long trip. If you change every year, I’d like to recycle your oil.

Are you sure it’s an air line, not the propane??? On my 04 Dynasty at that location it’s a low pressure propane outlet. Open the generator slide and on the passenger side I think you’ll find the male Type C fitting with a valve behind it which is what I used to air my tires. It also serves as the front tank drain… should have another one next to it without a fitting for the other tank drain.

If the valve handle is 2” long, it’s the propane as the air one is only 1” long.

Maybe this will help

Just bypass the J12

Fairly easy to just bypass the J12… solder to the relay connections.

I would check the voltage on the left lug of the BigBoy and then start the engine and retest. The voltage should increase by more than 1 volt… ideally closer to 14. If no change then the alternator is suspect but make sure the regulator on it is getting 12+ volts before deciding it’s bad.

Once the voltage gets above 13.3, the BIRD will energize the Big Boy and tie both battery banks together.

A 2014-15 Dynasty is on a RR10S chassis and no mention of semi monocoque. May have an aluminum house structure. Last year if the all steel S-10 is 2009… maybe even 10.

19 hours ago, purplephoenix77 said:

semi monocoque

Once you go to 315s on the front, there’s no reason to put 295s on the rear of a tag rig. A 11R22.5 is the same diameter and requires +8 additional pressure and cost $4-500. Had a blowout yesterday in Buffalo, WY and 2 hours later and $500 lighter for a 11R22.5, I was back on the road. Asked about availability of 295/80/22.5 and said he’d have to order from Gillette… couple of days.

I had my doubts about needing a dc-dc limiter. I’ve found my 08 Navigator’s alternator doesn’t overcharge or overheat charging my 800AH of Lithiums. Installed a remote temp sensor on the alternator and it stays the same as the terms of the top radiator hose.

Had a diaphragm leak and was able to borrow one out of another water pump. Had to buy a pressure switch for $12 to get a spare diaphragm… it’s now $20 and inflation is only 4%.

12.15 is 55%…why do you think that hurt them? Do a load test by using one battery at a time to start. Even maintenance free have caps under the hard plastic tops. Use a hydrometer and see if you have a bad cell. If everything checks out, I wouldn’t replace as I got 10+ years out of my Interstate 31s.

23 hours ago, Ivan K said:

As mentioned,  the male fitting is for air IN, into the tank through a check valve,  you won't get any air out of it even when you find the correct type female. How about the one to the right of if that looks like a female type as far as I can tell?

I use that one all the time to air my tires. It’s a Type C quick connection and I used it on both of my rigs.

Because of the poor location of the hydraulic power pack (under the steps) most issues is corrosion on the multiple connections under there. If you have a plastic bin under one of the steps, remove, throw all the screws away, and start cleaning.