Ivylog

No offense but I hope I never get to where I’m comfortable going less than the flow of the traffic…whatever that speed is. I like the Vorad radar cruise but if you are not careful you’re being passed because of the slow poke in front.

Why this frigging site won’t publish my posts is one of the reasons I rarely post on here… won’t publish a second post.

Anyway…I had the same situation and the above was the picture I added to my detailed  post. Good Luck

I have a hard time seeing which lights are on… can at night. Are you sure no fault lights are on?

Unlike the electric side, there are many things that stop the boiler lighting:

Easiest one, low on fuel… less than 1/4 tank not these gauges are accurate.

Blower motor running means you have fuel and air so why no spark? Easiest possibility is the high temp Tstat that can be pushed to reset behind square metal box near the top once you remove the covers.

From here it requires removing the boiler motor.

While on shore power I’ve found the AGM2 setting is the best for my Lithiums. Charge to over 90% and doesn’t start to recharge until down to 30% SOC. Unlike most batteries, Lithium should be “stored” at 50% SOC. I already had a disconnect switch on the BigBoy so not adding a DC-DC limiter. I have an additional 100 A charger that I use when dry camping to reduce my generator run time.

On the side of the TRW is a 3/4” jam nut on a large screw/bolt with a straight slot in the end. A inch of slop will only take less than 30 degrees CW. Do 15 and see how much you still have… more small adjustments are better than one big one as you don’t want it to bind.

Air chambers push and a weak spring returns it…lengthen the rod.

I do drive at night and yes the stock headlights suck. Just replacing the bulbs with LED isn’t going to do much other than blind oncoming traffic. Need a projector headlight designed for the LED bulb provided.

I experimented with several different LED spot lights and the below were by far the best plus they are adjustable in all 3 axises… need for the curved front. Mounted next to the mirror bases for a better angle downward. Added a foot switch to control them,

I would love to drive your rig before and after putting the bolt back together or better yet, drive it without knowing if it’s connected or not and post the improvement in handling.

Yes, I’m doubting Thomas as I put in 12+ hour days on the S-10 chassis (100,000+ miles) on the Watts Link improving its handling???

Unfortunately it’s no longer a seller’s market. I looked at 01 Dynasty non tag prices and I wish the majority good luck selling at $45K+. I’ve bought 4 DPs and haven’t paid more than NADA low retail without adding any options… $33,400 for your rig. The AquaHot, tires, and batteries are a plus and the low mileage may not be for some.

I see storm clouds on the horizon and the first thing to go are the toys. Sorry, not what you want to hear and I’m usually an optimist person, but we are in deep do do as a nation. Will it hit the fan in the next year, probably not.

Mike, the dash temp gauges could be off but having both in that range suggests they are fairly accurate. My 04 Dynasty would run hotter than that on long climbs, geared down and 1800 rpms.

By now, I wouldn’t worry about the past stop light.

You may be able to tighten that clamp… doesn’t look to be that bad of a leak. Since you pulled a 6600’ pass as usual, you have a gauge issue. At altitude it’s normal to get a puff of black smoke when you first accelerate.

DO NOT take it to Floyd Truck repair, not that you need to take it anywhere…stop looking at the gauge.

Software version of the display…ignore it.

THANKS!

Anyone replace their Kenwood radio (KVT-M707) and the LZ-702W touch screen display? The touch screen has stopped working on the display and before I replace the screen I’m hoping someone has the LZ-702W display laying around. Would be interested in buying both items.

Thanks

So much for needing to change the fuel filters every year.

A WIX 33783 isn’t what I’d put as the 3rd filter…1st yes as it’s a water separator filter. 

About the only time I raise my tag is when changing the tires.

4 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

If you get passed on the right, YOU should be ticketed. SMH
There's NO excuse for ever being in the left lane unless YOU are passing another vehicle or turning left.

That's the law in Germany, and driving there, even at 140mph+ speeds, is SO much more pleasant and relaxed.

Might want to watch the video again. The truck was passing the other truck fast enough that the gap closed up before the idiot got there. The truck almost swerved left and braked enough as another foot and the RV would not hit the truck. Look how small the gap is when the RV gets alongside and how far to the left the truck is and the gap between the 2 trucks would be much smaller if he hadn’t braked hard. Fortunately the dash cam proved he was not at fault.

Yes I’m still using and like it. The motor doesn’t stick down further than the front cap plus being at the axle, never gets closer to the road. Could use a little more adjustment so I would use a 6” stroke. I looked at something like that but only 220lbs bothered me. The S-T-+ mounting arm limits the mechanical advantage to 3 to 1 so I would use the below. This arm that pivots would have to be a little further away for the 3” of travel towards the mounting plate and the longer length of the activator.

The truck was ganing/passing the other truck with lots of speed difference. The MH  missed judged (should have braked) and clipped the truck that tried to move over to the left. After the dust settles only 2 vehicles came through…. so much for the line of vehicles behind.

I’d go with something like this…EBay 

The higher voltage with the engine running will take care of an extra 100 amps starting. Like Counyry B, my condenser is up front, but behind the front axle. 
I recently added a starting battery beside the generator so definitely wouldn’t be an issue for me. IF something major goes bad at the back, I’d seriously consider this.

I removed a S-T-+ stabilizer until I could adjust it on the fly…made driving tiring.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html

You should have 2 control knobs on the left, the Silverleaf and a camera selector to try and see which cameras are working. At least you’re gaining and a place in IN wanted an additional $1000 to install the system.
 

31 minutes ago, jlynn37064 said:

Thanks. I actually tried that and the right camera didn’t come on when I turned on the left or right blinker. 

Does the camera select switch on the left console do anything?