Ivylog

What psi are you running in the drive tires. Since both sounded off, doubt it’s a brake issue. It’s normal for the inner to run hotter but 158 is higher than any temp I’ve seen.

Fuel solenoid fuse is on the rear start board… right hand one of the 2. Left one is for the starter circuit. 

3 hours ago, Agpopp said:

Good question Ray, in the front road box there is a 20 amp breaker installed instead of a fuse. I've never seen one like it,  but it's doing its job. 

Auto resetting fuse. The clutch can be replaced.

Keep what you have and just use Waze near large cities. Up to date traffic and routes. I’m currently working on getting my KNA to work again.

You did pull and check the left 20 amp fuse?

10 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Never meant to be insensitive, I hope all will forgive me if it came across that way.

I reread my posts and your comments to it. Guess I’m the insensitive ones as it hadn’t occurred to me that I needed to ask for forgiveness. Opinions are just that Opinions. It’s probably good that many thought my not using PPE is I’ll advised as they do. Wouldn’t hurt my feelings, even if they said so. Yes, many are not as lucky as we are, and not just health wise. Hopefully we don’t have to add this after every post we do.

This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

If this is because you need the income, work a couple more years where’re your at. If you want to travel and do repairs, I would specialize in a particular repair like AquaHot. Set up a website showing where your located and where you plan to be.

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Velvac Mirrors do NOT have plastic base covers. Only mirrors from Ramco have the plastic covers.Velvac Mirrors have lag screw covers which have to be removed to expose the head of the lag screw.

The method you described above works only for Ramco Mirrors.

If you say so?

Bringing up Covid and poison ivy was to put it into context that there’s multiple things I do not worry about. We MH with 2 cats and yes that puts us in a Petri dish…maybe that makes our immunities stronger, who knows? I’m sorry if this sounds stupid BUT (I love it when someone adds BUT) But at 78 I’m not changing my ways and start worrying about things now. We’ve lived a great life, in the best of times, and without any regrets.

As Clint Eastwood said, when asked why he kept working at 90… “you don’t let the old man in”!  Different strokes for different folks.

Arm is loose is clear to me. On the bottom of the mount there’s a removable plug for the bolt that holds the arm on. Put a longer bolt in and hit with a hammer to loosen the arm. Once the arm is removed the plastic cover will come off exposing the 4 lag screws. Good luck just tighten them…rarely lasts.

Guess I’m uneducated enough to not worry about a lot of things. About the only thing I stopped doing during Covid was to stop licking door knobs. Didn’t wear masks unless required to…went to a store that didn’t require if possible. Traveled out West both summer of Covid and ate out occasionally. Pumped diesel without gloves as usual… yes I wash my hands afterwards. 6 months ago 10 of 13 people at a dinner party caught Covid, wife and I didn’t and we haven’t had it. Will not get a Covid booster and only got the jab because we travel often.

Haven’t worn gloves while dumping or any other things ^^^ in 50+ years. Even after reading the above, I’m not going to start now. Not sure if there’s much difference in the outside of a 3” hose and a 1” hose that do the same thing. Yes, I wash my hands after dumping most of the time.

Last week I had to walk through a large crop of poison ivy. Had long pants on and no reaction afterwards and I have a partial right knee replacement. Guess I’m not a Sissy yet as I jump down from the podium. Ignorance is bliss and the following is after my posts on RV.net and applies here:

This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

35 minutes ago, Coach J said:

I have tried 68,65,60 etc 

Find the remote tem sensor and make sure it’s not touching anything.

1 minute ago, Pduggs said:

Thanks Ivy but I think I’ll stick with the old style dump hose for now. 

I’m with you on a 3” hose working better than a 1”.

Try using 68 instead of 70.

Turn on the headlights to test for dead engine batteries.

39 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

All I really need is the pump, plastic box, and grey water bypass connection. 
 

Is yours original to your coach and how many years of use?

97.33 hours! Actually I have no idea as the rig was 10 years old when I bought it and I haven’t used plus no hoses came with it. I know the original owner and 6 month out of the year it was gravity fed. Other 6 months it was usually in storage. There’s a couple pieces of hair on the impeller. 3 of the mounting eyes are broken off…. $100 including shipping.

I’m in N GA and In trying to come up with a price I found a complete one in PA. Don’t know if it’s still available but if someone is in that area I’d say it’s a good deal for $125.

https://www.shoppok.com/reading/a,38,124861,Used-Thethord-70236-RV-Sani-Con-5800-Macerator-System-with-grey-water----125--Pottstown-.htm

Took these pictures of mine:

I’ve never had to use mine, even to pump uphill. After waiting in line to dump behind someone using one,…took for ever, I have one for sale.

Not sure which side I like the best. Without a doubt this is the tool I use the most. I did use it and a 6” crescent wrench to adjust the TRW within the first 200 miles of owning our 08 Navigator.

While a high temp Tstat can be reset, it can’t do it by itself. Glad it’s working now!

No offense but I hope I never get to where I’m comfortable going less than the flow of the traffic…whatever that speed is. I like the Vorad radar cruise but if you are not careful you’re being passed because of the slow poke in front.

Why this frigging site won’t publish my posts is one of the reasons I rarely post on here… won’t publish a second post.

Anyway…I had the same situation and the above was the picture I added to my detailed  post. Good Luck

I have a hard time seeing which lights are on… can at night. Are you sure no fault lights are on?

Unlike the electric side, there are many things that stop the boiler lighting:

Easiest one, low on fuel… less than 1/4 tank not these gauges are accurate.

Blower motor running means you have fuel and air so why no spark? Easiest possibility is the high temp Tstat that can be pushed to reset behind square metal box near the top once you remove the covers.

From here it requires removing the boiler motor.

While on shore power I’ve found the AGM2 setting is the best for my Lithiums. Charge to over 90% and doesn’t start to recharge until down to 30% SOC. Unlike most batteries, Lithium should be “stored” at 50% SOC. I already had a disconnect switch on the BigBoy so not adding a DC-DC limiter. I have an additional 100 A charger that I use when dry camping to reduce my generator run time.

On the side of the TRW is a 3/4” jam nut on a large screw/bolt with a straight slot in the end. A inch of slop will only take less than 30 degrees CW. Do 15 and see how much you still have… more small adjustments are better than one big one as you don’t want it to bind.