Fred L

I thank all that have supplied some possible solutions. Reading, I'm willing to say it may be the Nason switch, where ever that is. I cannot get access up (at least not yet) below the dash. My unit has boards I guess screwed or fasten some way. I will get on my back tomorrow and take a look. I hope to leave for the Fl Keys by weeks end and really don't want to go to the service shop again. I do most of the work on this RV. Since I hit 100,000 coming back from the Keys last year I took it in for engine and trans inspection. There was an ABS light that would come on now and then, the tech said it needed adjusting. Engine and trans are in good condition, but was unable to track down the beeping horn. The Nason pdf was very good info. BTW What is the purpose of the Nason switch, and where is located? I'll be using goggle on that. Thanks again to all Stay safe

I am beside myself. I am looking to see if anyone else has experienced this. I have a 2004 Camelot Cummins with Allison trans. Purchased new. The warning horn comes on when I put it in gear. A little history. It has been doing this for about 4 years then goes off after a while. I had the RV looked at this year just for that, and naturally it worked fine when it was at the shop for service. The tech said it is connected to multiple devices. Low anti-freeze, low trans fluid, etc. Everything was at proper levels, not over heating, plenty of air, fuel is full. Today, in getting it ready for our trip south it was find leaving to get to a open space to set up satellite. Got back to house and shut it down out on street to move the tow vehicle into position. Went back to back the RV in and the stupid horn was beeping. If I could get to it without taking dash apart I would disconnect it. Last year I left with it beeping and it stopped about a mile away. Doesn’t make it right. Does anyone have a schematic, or what items this is connected to? I guess because of age a sending unit needs replacing. This is not the warning horn for the leveling jacks. Thanks

No, There was a plug on mine.

I was able to get Veltec to replace my original set as they dechromed in less then two years. They said the supplier was at fault. Three years later they did the same thing. I had them rechrome at a shop in Philadelphia. They did last two years. I purchased the RV new at a trade show Oct 2003, 2004 PDQ 40'. They could use it again. I had all the chrome done on my 1969 Stingray two years ago during a rebuild. This is a different shop after looking around after my first experience. The work is guaranteed as long as I own the car. I asked them a price on the mirror mount and only if I take it in. I planned on doing that this year but the virus as put this on the back burner. The shop is Librandi's. Restore mgr Mitch Crater 717-944-9442 Located in Harrisburg PA. Right next to airport. www.carchrome.com Good luck (I did think of just painting them black)

I just changed the shocks on my 2004 40 PDQ. Front shocks were shorter than back. I had studs on the top of all eight. You need to confirm what you have by checking each wheel to be safe. Front should be same, and back should be same. There is limited room on the back. But I was able to do the job without taking the rear wheels off. Another guy from this group bent a 5/16 wench to hold the top and then 3/4" ratchet wrench for the nut. I made a tool out of flat steel. In the end the tool didn't work because of rust. I used a sawzall to cut just below the washer through the rubber. That worked out well for me. I bought them direct from Koni. I originally ordered them from "Shock Warehouse", in Florida. Two months and 3 calls they kept saying back ordered, not in stock. I contacted Koni direct and they had them on the shelf. Got them 3 days later. Good luck

You may want to listen where the air is discharged when the system it full. My air filter is part of the air exhaust. I bought a large strap wrench from Home Depot and it works great. My filter is about 7" in diameter 8" long. Hard to find if it has years of use because of road dirt.

The same thing happened to me a couple years ago. I put up with it and didn't trust the sending unit. Used mileage to gauge visits to fuel stops. Finally took time to track down the problem. It was the sending unit. Took a picture of the top of the unit and contacted that company. Purchased a new one and it works perfectly. My sending was made by "Centroid Products" 904-423-3574. Was not difficult to replace. Good luck

I understand to hold the upright shaft still while you turn the nut. Is there not enough room to have the wrench straight out so that it does not interfere with the nut. I'm not foreign to this stuff and appreciate what you did, just trying to figure out why? Was this just for the back that is in tighter quarters? Planning on this next month. Haven't decided on Koni's or Bilstein shocks..Thanks for your comments

Why did you bend the 8mm wrench.

The sheet that was supplied to me when I purchased the RV new, listed s/n and mfg of almost everything, including shocks. I'm looking to replace mine. I used an excellent alignment and frame company in Orlando Fl that recommended Koni Shocks (the company does not sell tires but can suggest changes and give reasons why). I contacted Koni directly and they asked the model, year and model. They asked if there were eye or nut at the top. They have the shocks I need. Clearly a difference, and I'm not sure I want to lay on my back to replace them. I'm not familiar with Bilstein shocks. Good luck

There are instructions to open and close the slides. There are 4 slides in this RV. The manual gives procedures how to close the bedroom slide. You raise the bed, remove motor cover and loosen a bolt to allow the slide to be pushed in from the outside. You can assume the procedure would be the same on the other three. However, the front slides are much larger, and I guess you can loosen the bolt from below, but you would need a large group of people to push these in. Perhaps a large adjustable wrench below would work. That is my thought. The forth slide, passenger side is the smallest. I had a problem with this slide not working once. Turning off all power, waiting 10 minutes and turning the power back on seemed to get it working again. I've been told this slide has 2 motors and mush be in sync to open and close properly. Access to motors comes from removing the covers. One is in the battery box, the second is over the rear wheels. It would seem you may need to remove the rear wheels to allow access to the cover. Other than the one reference I have no information on manual retraction procedures. Was looking for info and maybe someone that had this type of problem.

I have a 2004 40' PDQ. I'm looking for info on how to manually retract the slides in the event they stop working. Just planning ahead.

I switched to Dish a few years ago and wish I did it sooner. For us we were only using the dish a couple times a year and always had a new connection problem with Direct. It seems Dish takes a little longer to connect but not a problem. I agree that changing to locals was a pain because I was calling in every time. Last year the tech sent me a system to change it myself. It took a couple of times to get it down it's really easy. See below; Here's how you can change your local channels from your phone: Get the MyDISH app at the App Store or Google Play Store. Enter/Create your Online ID to log in to the app Open the Services tab Select Local Channels in the DISH Outdoors section Click the Manage Locals button Follow the step by step instructions on the screen

Thanks for the help.

I found the code. Thanks for any interest. s/b 1218

I have a 2004 40' PDQ. I want to reset the LP tank size. Purchased new and just now found it is not a 50 gallon tank. It's a 38 gallon tank. The problem I'm having is that you need a code to enter the system options. Does anyone know the codes?