Romeo84

Steel exhaust flex pipe is what I used when mine fell off going down the road. But mine was gone gone. You can still fix yours. 

Thanks everyone for the help. Swap was super easy Just replaced the whole assembly, and wouldn't you know it?

I get back home and my wife said the keys were in her purse the whole time.

I bet I have over twenty hours tearing into every door, drawer, closet, garbage can at home and in the camper looking for those bad boys. 

Welp Now I have a spare ignition and a whole bunch of spare keys. 🙃 

13 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Yeah it is vintage Chevy. Sorry I don’t have my coach with me. Someone will know more as far as part numbers. I have a Napa one in a drawer if my coach 

So it is a fairly simple swap?

Well here is my current situation. I have just recently lost my ignition key ring. Yup all of them. 

Ironically I have pictures of the trimark and FRB key so I have the numbers off them but.....

Does anyone have advice on how to replace the ignition 2001 signature.

I believe I remember someone saying it's off an old chevy ignition.. 

Any helper advice would be awesome.

Would would I source these keys at or am I just outta luck. 

Went through this last year. The purge valve in the air dryer was old dirty and not sealing so it never fully seated. 

You can get a new purge valve kit for cheap it doesn't come with the slide valve though. I bought a new air dryer off Amazon that was defective so don't do that. If the needle stops building its in the dryer. 

6 hours ago, cbr046 said:

I installed a wireless system . . . . video isn't great but the cost was.  It's "live" enough I can monitor traffic sneaking up on me and excellent for changing lanes in traffic, even with the trailer.  It's also TONS better for backing vs "I can see the hitch only" OEM camera . . . but I still use my mirrors mostly. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FM58K2W

Wiring 12V to the camera was the tricky part (so much for "wireless" LOL).  Some people tap off one of the marker lights but that means driving with lights on ALWAYS.  I didn't like that idea.  The Sony OEM camera is 8V.  My original intent was an 8V to 12V DC-DC converter but I didn't like that idea either, so I tapped into the Sony monitor, isolated the audio pins for the camera microphone and used the audio wire to feed 12V to the camera, which is mounted above the OEM camera housing.  Yes, I had to isolate the audio wire at the camera but that was easier. 

The system I bought has an option for up to 4 cameras but 4 videos can get pretty small on the monitor.  I bought the 2 camera system with the plan to use the front camera as a recording device.  It will record but it won't play back.  Well, maybe but I lost the instructions.  I have to take the USB drive out and plug into a PC to get play back.  The front camera is pretty much a paper weight now because I don't like the split screen format. 

It's supposed to be a touch screen but it's not (or it's broken).  By the time I checked the video record / playback I was past the return window. 

If you're made of money go buy a wired system and have a professional install it.  If you're on a budget and a DIY'er this is my experience. 

- bob

I just bought and I stalled this 6 months ago. I didn't have a direct wire. Which as Said earlier is better. I can't complain about quality or lag in video. Every now and again it may freeze for a second but otherwise it's definitely live and clear. Plus you can honestly mount them anywhere. I put one at the back of the car dolly facing forward towards straps and golf cart to watch for movement. Close to 60 feet behind drivers dash and works great. 

3 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I doubt that the Insta-Hot is a dedicated run. I mentioned that as a possible source to plug the True Induction cook-top into versus having to run another Romex to that area. Plus we do NOT use ANY high amp draw device unless we are hooked to sufficient shore power or have the generator running. We have always maintained that logic with the Windsor and now with the Dynasty. I don't like to over stress the House Battery Bank or the Inverter, both of which are expensive to replace. The Trace/Xantrex Inverter in the Windsor is original and still working strong for the new owners after nearly 23 years of service.

The True Induction Cook-top we have in the Dynasty is NOT 240 VAC, but rather 120 VAC model which shares 1800 watts of power. It is model TI-2B.

https://tinyurl.com/3tt8uyay

 

Oh man that's exactly what I was looking for!!!!!

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Does your coach have the Insta-Hot accessory like my 02 Windsor had? If so and don't use it you could plug the Induction Cook-top into that outlet. I would also suggest installing a 120 VAC switch to turn the cook-top on and off. That is how ours is wired in the Dynasty we now own.

Regarding the Corian, I would look for a shop that has the tools and expertise to work with Corian. I did that on my Windsor when I switched the cook-top from the 3 burner Atwood stove to the Seaward Princess Gourmet 2 burner cook-top.

We have the switch and the faucet for the insta hot in our signature. Is that a dedicated run?

Tom, I think you wrote out exactly what I was thinking. Thats why I haven't done it yet i don't want to run a whole new independent line. But now I'm interested to see if that insta hot run like dr. Mentioned is Independent. 

This was on the list of things to do this year! So funny. The only thing we Use in our camper was the stove. I wanted to remove the tank and make a giant tool storage compartment.  Saw someone at a campground last This year that did the exact same thing so I know it's possible. 

Like the other guy said Need to do a little research on power... in my signature I have an outlet under the sink for a subwoofer. Pretty sure it's a downstream run that could be turned independent. Curious how much a small 2 burner induction stove uses. Can't be more than a microwave?

Hey guys I had my flex pipe under the motor between the muffler and the  downpipe fall off on my drive home this weekend. 

Seems like it's a pretty standard part but if any one has a part number that would be cool. 

Real reason for the post is Does anyone have a picture of their rig with a straight pipe.  

After hearing her roar Like that, I kind of want to put a straight pipe on It. Looking for pictures and parts they used. 2001 sig ism .

Thanks in advance 

With the engine running it has to be building air. See if you can listen to hear the leak if it's coming from the air dryer or the bags leaking make sure to have someone step on the throttle to build rpm. Will increase build pressure making it easier to hear. 

Also the governors are cheap and easy fix like posted b4. So if it's not building ez fix

Try to find out if it's losing air or just not building it. 

2 hours ago, DavidL said:

Impatient, inexperienced and a numb nutz.

Based on how quick the occupant jumped out of the wreck, certainly not wearing a seat belt.  If that was the sole person in the camper, lucky stars.

 

Might also suggest that the trucker with the dash cam was hogging the passing lane for awhile too...every day common.  All the trucker needed to do was either Accel to pass, or better, pull over to the right and let the traffic pass and avoid rattling the faster traffic behind.

I drive truck, and I don't understand why trucks he's parked in the left lane. So frustrating. Dude probably was trying to pass him for 15 miles and the trucker was completely oblivious never checked his mirrors and notice 40 some cars stacked behind him. Then dude doesn't even pull over just stops. Probably caused a secondary crash behind him 2. 

Yikes which filter. If it's the ravor plastic prefilter those are getting tricky to source. Your unit should have a electric primer at the rear. With the Key on and depressing the valve hold the button till full till fuel comes out. There pretty ez

Nice! Congrats on saving about $3000!!

2 hours ago, Ivan K said:

An other option I would consider is the return line fitting, that would prove to me that the whole fuel system is working. May not have much pressure while cranking but shouldn't be dry.

Where did you find this diagram. I need these schematics lol

They are little round cones.. u can pick them up at menards home depot lowes.. I think 10 come in a bag for $5. Bring the old 1s with and just ask. 

I have the exact same amount of oil. You can pull the chrome piece off and your tag hub seal will be visible. 

Mine had a clear window on it as attached. More than likely the center rubber grommet dried out or was pulled out and didnt seat properly. When you take the cover off youll see where its leaking. Don't over fill it. If you see it by the full line it's perfect. 

Also that plastic is very britle over time. If and when you replace grommet push gently or you'll push right thru the plastic.  😆 

All providing its oil filled... lol

On 7/7/2022 at 9:59 PM, Bob Jones said:

There are typically two reasons for the fresh water tank to self-fill. One is the check valve in the water pump is leaking allowing park water to flow past it and into the fresh water tank eventually over-filling it. This is why I suggest always installing an in-line check valve (not from an RV store). You can get them on Amazon. Of you do this, get a 3/4" valve and use adapters to bring it down to 1/2". This way it will not be a flow restriction. 

The second place they leak is the City-Water valve. This is typically a ball valve, often hard to replace. Debris can be stuck in it. I suggest removing the handle and flattening the flanges that prevent it from being turned 360 degrees. Then you can turn it around while under park pressure and hopefully it will clear up. In my specific case, I replaced it with a new one and it still leaked. Turns out, if I turn it to the 2 o'clock position it then seals. 

With respect to the water pressure going back out the city port, this is because the factory check valve, typically next to the City/Water valve is leaking. This too can be difficult to replace. 

To address your issue I suggest you do two things. Buy TWO 3/4" check valves, put one in discharge line from the water pump and put the other on the inlet side of the City/Water valve (where you attach the hose). This will cover both of your problems. Hopefully you won't need to replace the City/Water valve as they can be a pain if they have PEX lines and copper crimp rings going to them, but it's dependant on the design of your specific unit. 

PS, I have now put wire mesh hose washers in the city water feed line and also the black tank flushing line in an effort to prevent the odd tiny rock or whatever from going through the plumbing.  Hope this helps.

Well written! Thanks. Actually did what you said probably while you were typing it. Thanks again!

Well I think that answered that. There it is. That's why is coming out.  Thank you. 

33 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Yes, the twist valve by your pump would stop filling the tank if the pump check valve is bad. Of course, you can't use the pump with it closed... About the city hook-up, the piece sticking out is a factory installed restrictor (regarded as a regulator) and check valve. I took it out and replaced with a real regulator with a valve because it took for ever to fill the tank.

Did It just unscrew??

Ok so the bottom picture is the shut off to the pump. It shouldn't back fill with that closed right?

Also after the pump runs water flows out of the inlet which I would expect to be the remaining water in the lines right? What stop that?

3 hours ago, Bootlegger said:

The handles some time strip out and do not turn the valve.  Can you see the valve stem moving?

 

Yes the valve is moving. Wondering if I didn't have it turned or closed fully. Still don't understand the back flow out of the supply inlet when pumpbis running

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK, to sort this all out, based some past threads…this is what I think I know….

There are TWO check valves….and don’t ask me to draw a diagram.  When you have an overfill in the fresh tank, one of two things has happened.

Bad “check valve” in the water pump.  There is an in-line or internal check valve in the outlet side of the pump body or impeller.  This prevents city water, under pressure, from flowing backwards into the outlet of the fresh tank.  We have had some failures.

The OTHER cause is the city fill valve has a clog or some trash and is not fully seated into the CITY side or port and is letting some water escape or get out through the Fill port.

The common fix for this is to cycle, sharply, the valve between the city and fill position….and maybe letting it run for a minute or two.  When in the city position, you probably should have a faucet or a line open to dislodge or flush out the ports or the internal passages.  Don’t take a hammer or a rock and beat on the handle to move it further.  There are stops.  You might spray the stem (shaft the nut is on) with a little WD 40, which displaces water and lubricates it.  I had a slow leak, but it took about three different times, driven in between, to get rid of the clog.

BUT, you need to also remove the hose and run the pump on and off a few times, leaving it on.  We have had that….so, it is a matter of shotgunning and flushing both the two position city valve and clearing any debris out of the in-line check in the pump.  Some have installed an additional check valve there.  If you disconnect the INLET side  of the pump, then you have removed it from the circuit.  If you see water coming out of the inlet of the pump….not a drip, odds are….bad or clogged check valve.  Consult the manual from there.  If there is NO flow or leakage…then focus on the fill valve.

The OTHER check valve is suppose to allow you to run your system on fresh without pumping water out of the fill hose.  It is not, I believe, in the circuit that is overfilling.

Note on “Not Able to FILL”.  Been there.  MH had been in storage way longer.  I use a screened washer.  For whatever reason, something was inside the fill valve.  I cycled it several times.  You could barely hear it flowing.  Filled the tank from the outside.  When we came back, say 500 miles and 2 camp sites….I was able, and still am, to now fill the fresh tank as before.  

Well said and written! Had to be bad valve in the pump allowing water to back flow into the tank. Same thing with after the pump runs allowing water to flow out the inlet supply 

12 minutes ago, Bootlegger said:

On my RV, I have a manual valve that diverts the water to City or Tank Fill.  If I turn it to City water, the freshwater tank does not fill, and I do not need my water pump.  

Exactly but mine filled somehow....

9 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Remove the handle and using a pair of pliers rotate the valve 360 degrees a half dozen times in both directions. Reinstall the handle and see if that improves your situation.

 

I will try it. I'm thinking it's not sealing. And some water is leaking by. 

Yours sounds more like a clog stuck check valve. I had the rubber insert clog the inlet once. Mine is filling when it shouldn't be. Feel like maybe the same check valve wherever it is went bad.

Hey guys had my city water connected and everything worked fine. Went swimming and my daughter came back and said the camper has a huge pool around it. Somehow my city water filled the fresh water tank and was pouring out the over flow. 

I double checked everything to make the valve was the right way. How did the fresh water tank fill? Where is the check valve that would prevent that?

Also instead of dumping the water we just switched over to the water pump just to use it. But now water is coming out of the supply connection port.  Any thoughts?

I did order it and it looks close I have yet to install. Mine was 10.5 as well.

I was thinking of trying to just replace the nylon roller. It's just a cover but haven't got around to that yet. 

Keep me in the loop if you get to 1st. Wanna know what om in for lol