Romeo84

Just curious if you resolved this. If it's leaking out that bad have someone release the parking brake while you walk to the back of the coach. You may have a bad maxi/parking break chamber / diaphragm. ( so many different names). 

The air in the cab sounds more like the air charging or discharging through the system. If you have a bad parking break chamber leak you will hear moving air that sounds like a leak. It's just a lot of air moving around. 

Check both with the break set and stepping/ holding down on the break pedal. Listen for leaks. And then breaks released wheels chocked maybe. Engine of will help a lot.

Remember breaks will set automatically at or around 60psi. So if they ever get low..look out it will lock up!

I checked when i came home and the temp was up in 200s. I don't remember the specifics. I know the stick was about 8 inches over the full line.. the pad did say ol hi don't remember the number that followed. But 2 gallons over will cause an "aerate" or foam  problem I guess which won't allow the trans fluid to cycle properly and eventually increase temp.

Checked running in neutral

Looking into it further and after a little chat with Allison tech... I pulled an extra 2 and a half gallons out of the transmission...that's what was causing the mild increase in temp. Lucky guess when I saw a 10° spike. 

No idea where who or how. Had to make sure the trans cooler doesn't mix with the hydraulic tank because that's a lot of extra fluid. 

Now the stick and shifter diagnostic match up and are both happy. 

Allison did say at some point it would heat up and burn a lot off or leak out somewhere.  They said it's common for service stations to add too much when doing filters. The initial fill capacity of my trans was something like... 36 quarts but the refill after filter change is only 26...

Thinking maybe give the radiator a good flush. Looks like a lot of gunk on the trans as well. Possible leak so ill clean that as well.. Electronic diagnostic on the shifter indicator says fluid temp and level are ok but manual check I think it's high. 

Allison 4000 series manual says 180-200 is normal with 200-230° normal for towing +90° or hills. I was pushing 65mph most of the way.. maybe dropnit down to 60 and see.

  I really don't want to say wait and see as I though 200 was high but...

Hey guys 01 signature with ism. Trans was running at about 200° on the way home today. Usually remember it running 180 or 190°

Whats your normal range for Trans temp. @ or around 65mph?

200° just seems on the higher end.

7 hours ago, Rob M cKeown said:

I had a similar problem, front zone (living room) was not getting heat, fans were working but no heat. Tried the hammer on the check valve, no luck. That zone had an air lock so loosened the return line and applied a little air to the overflow connection on the filler nozzle. Once the gurgling stopped from air being in the line, tightened the return line and all was well with plenty of heat. 

This is where I'm at now... took check valve off and replaced it. Supplied air to the vent line. Found my cap was shot. Replaced the cap charged the line and saw the fluid go up the pump and over my head..

Now it's cavitation or something. Still no fluid movement.  Has to be a clog somewhere down stream.

This started with a leaky fuel pump which is fixed then check valve replaced now I have to find the clog....

Is the return for the same loop just behind the supply? So if I crack the one circled in the picture that is the living room return..?? 

Rob u said urs was gurgling with pump on?

Ever run the electric element on just 30amp service? The site we have is only 30 amp and it would be nice to take the chill out at night. Run the diesel burner to build up start up heat and then switch to electric through the night.  So much quieter. 

Thoughts on aqua hot electric element on 30 amp service. 

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Couldn't shelf mine right now, it's running on electric every night of this trip! Coldest spring in years!

Could use heat pumps, but I like the quiet of the AH heat on electric.

 I have used my heat pumps down to about 35ﾟ and then they start to chill out... 

At what temp does the electric heater  Element not be able to keep up.. 

Also I'm going to be in some pretty chilly Nights the next 5 days.. 

Site I'm at is only 30amp.  I'm well aware of the basic load sharing and overloading principles of amperage...

  The heater element on the aquahide says it pulls about 1600 W so I'm guessing anywhere in the range of 12 to 14 amps.. I could I get by running the aqua hot onThe electric element on A30AMp service..  I figure 15 amps for the aqua hot another 5 for all the fans lights(led) and another 6 for the charger ... would be close but through the night what do you guys think?

Ya Dr. You are right it's a 431. Pretty sure it's the brass valve. It's really hot on the bottom end of the brass but the top is warm at best. 

U can hear and feel the punp turning didn't know it was magnets driven. 

I think I'm going to give it a good tap tomorrow and if it doesn't move just leave it till I can replace the valve. 

Looks like that's a pretty big process. 

Ya. Tried to tap on it with the punp turning. Still no go. Bout to shelf this one till fall lol

Hey guys so I have been working on this aqua hot recently for the past 2 weeks.. Started with a fuel pump leak which I eventually solved then. Figuring out how to get a good clean burn with no smoke.

Now Everything is running and getting warm except the front zone.  I can put my hand on the punp and feel the circulation pump turning but it seems like no fluid is moving. 

The lines are warm at best... both other pumps and lines are hot but the far right one is cool. I have all zone thermostats max out for heat should it should be calling for it.  And all the radiator fans are turning. Just no fluid..

Is there in internal valve that is supposed to open? Possible clog in that loop?? All zone radiators are cold.

Any thoughts?

Get 12v warm light led rope light .

I just replaced all of mine. It starter on fire last year and u could smell all the plastic burning from the incandescent lights. Peel and stick super easy.

Plus the led only pull like 1.5 amps 

Yeah some kind of discharge valve maybe parking break discharge valve

Definitely not your governor unless it's connected to your air compressor on your motor. Looks to me like the service break discharge port.  I just walked by this poster maybe it can help you. Haven't had a chance to look it over.  

So many people have had to buy whole fuel pumps because of the leak. 

I contacted wabasco and no help they won't sell just the O rings and seals... lol but... I just found everything I need on grainger.  No need to buy a whole $400 pump.

Found the seals for $8.00

Finally got around to addressing the fuel leak on my aqua hot fuel pump.  figured out it was the o ring seal on the thru shaft for the fuel pump.

has anyone ever replaced one of these. A new pump is upwards of $250.. this o ring can't be more than 10 bucs

On 5/7/2022 at 4:00 PM, Ivan K said:

Regardless of mileage, the posted 00 Sig pictures are correct. The factory installed inverter is Trace 3012. Two contractors at the left are for remote block heater and AC/WD selection. Those could be modified and in Ryan's case might have been, to move the 3rd AC away from WD. For me it does not matter, not yet.

Finnaly opened mine up. Think I might just switch the ac back to the 20 amp and put the block heater back to the 15 amp. 

Just curious what general all purpose grease you guys use for your front ends

So now I'm going backwards. My front only gave voltage and the back use to work. Now both nada.... I'll look into my more tomorrow see if I can help

After finnaly fixing the onboard auxiliary 12v air compressor which took so much wire tracing and testing. I decided to add an actual air compressor.

Completely tucked into the 1st storage bay and it sits over the drawer. I bolted it to the drawer slide/track so no weight is on the floor. 

Ran the power cord through the bays to the outlet in the 2nd storage bay. Now whenever I wanna fill up a tire or air the coach up it's just a matter of a switch. 

Its a little Unnecessary but it's absolutely quiet with the door closed. Like almost silent. I just need to add a flex pipe for fresh air. 

Same.

Curious if others have an answer. I know some have used a different diagnostic tool and get better results.. 

Looking into this. I havent opened the box yet but there is no power to the outlet in the washer dryer area. Kitchen switch has power but the outlet in the washer area doesn't get power at all. I'm going to open up the box and look at it tomorrow. 

Still want to put the washer dryer on the 15 amp and ac block heat on the 20 amp. As mentioned earlier. 

I don't think I will know till I open it up. I hope they are both not on the same. I'm guessing.. he switched just the ac and block heater? Will know more tomorrow when I open it up. 

18 hours ago, Ivan K said:

So I went and looked at my breaker panel since we have the same coach and noticed that my double breaker has been moved up one position. Not just the wires but the whole breaker positions were switched between the two lower breakers in the past as the label with hand written arrows indicates. No function of the AC/WD switcher relay is chaged either, I know that for fact. The only reason I can see for that, is to move the 3rd AC to Line 2, the same line as AC #1. Why, not sure but maybe to run both rear and center units at night with load balanced on both lines which might be better for the generator. My generator was used a lot by the first owner. Good enough explanation to me...  maybe yours had similar reasoning because just moving the leads between breakers should have no effect on the AC/WD switching, the wire from the breaker goes to the switcher first and that's where the decision is made. The kitchen switch is only a 12v remote.

Soooo.. now when I tackle this do you think I just swap to a 20 amp breaker if the wire size accommodates? Or should I just swap the breakers like yours has.

I don't have any problems now but I just wonder if I should just add the 20 amp. Plan on using ac a lot this summer in AZ. Really would like to not fry the middle one out because of lack of power.  

Totally going to use that picture for reference when I get back and open the panel up.

Thanks

20 minutes ago, Gary Cole said:

Be careful to understand that a GFCI doesn't provide overcurrent, arc, or fault protection. A GFCI only senses an unbalance in current flow due to a path to ground.  The 15/20 A designation is the manufacturers non-continuous load rating. 

Understood, but with that being said if wire gauge is the same. All should be good upgradeing to a 20amp correct?