AndyinMelbourne

It's the same kind of joint as the horizontal belt line(s). There are four on each side of the body - lower, which you described, upper - where the roofline is connected to the sidewalls, front - where the front cap connects to the sidewalls, and the rear - where the rear cap connects to the sidewalls. On my motorhome, all of these seams have had portions fail and needed to be re-worked with stainless steel rivets and sealant. The cap is generally re-usable if you are careful in removing it.

I believe it is just a trim piece over the belt-line.

What engine does it have?

I would use this. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Battery-Switch/dp/B000MMC914/ref=rp_sccl_2/145-5074500-3640802?pd_rd_w=GFSrf&content-id=amzn1.sym.208e539a-c534-423e-b534-e4dcccf63aa5&pf_rd_p=208e539a-c534-423e-b534-e4dcccf63aa5&pf_rd_r=QT6GBP5Z6S0ZRKE3097N&pd_rd_wg=bnCP0&pd_rd_r=6283a390-1f44-438d-91aa-c24fe4acb3b5&pd_rd_i=B000MMC914&psc=1

I was able to get mine to retract by "helping it". I stood on a stepstool and started rolling it up and the motor sort of kept up, but didn't have the power to actually move the awning by itself. I still haven't replaced my motor as we rarely use the awning and I have some items a little higher on my "to do" list.

I recently experienced a U-joint failure on my 2005 Monaco Windsor. I ended up having to have a driveshaft fabricated as the old shaft did quite a bit of damage to itself flopping around under the motorhome until I got it stopped. The new shaft cost slightly over $1,000 including the parts and labor to weld the new parts together. They also balanced the drive shaft and there was a world of a difference in the vibration level with the new shaft (zero vibration) vs. the old shaft (lots toward the end of its life). I did the removal and installation myself, but I was expecting to pay $150/hour for the mobile truck mechanic to do it (he ended up abandoning the job after one visit). The new U-joints cost around $80 each for the Chinese-made ones (the US-made ones were not in stock, or I would have put those on; they would have cost around $130 each). I also had to source and buy a new yoke for the transmission end, new transmission output shaft seal (it was leaking a little), a new transmission cooling line (collateral damage from the driveshaft flopping around) and a new air line from the compressor to the dryer (also collateral damage). After examining the old U-joints, the one that failed appeared to be dry of grease while the other one seemed to have adequate grease. I'm guessing that the zerks failed on the dry U-joint and the service place that I hired to do the grease job didn't care enough to let me know that (another reason to do the service work myself, which I'm doing from now on). While I was under there mucking around I went ahead and replaced the air dryer cartridge and cleaned up some zip ties that were holding wire bundles and hoses in place but were nearing end-of-life. It pays to crawl under there once in a while.

I have a 2005 Windsor with four slides. One of the slide corners at the bottom was showing signs of the floor rot. I took it to Talin RV in Brooksville and had the Guardian Plates installed on all four slides. This is a great product and it does a great job of fixing this congenital defect. Here is a link for more information. http://talinrv.com/testimonials/ I was very happy with the quality of the workmanship and the professionalism with which I was treated from start to finish.

I have a 2005 Windsor with 400 ISL. I personally wouldn't change the oil right at 1 year with that few miles on it. We run ours 11,000 miles per year traveling to visit family and generally do change annually but for that few miles I would probably let it go 6 months or a year later. There are a lot of varying opinions on this though.

https://atldiesel.com/products/new-cummins-isl-fully-loaded-cylinder-head-3969722?variant=43334752108763&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7aqkBhDPARIsAKGa0oJ1_e2GRF6iL0J_F6cgEsNzuuGypCdNRURbidQkFX_1jbnuPKZvBBsaAtiNEALw_wcB

We bought an 11+ cubic foot magic chef at Lowe's for $400, in stainless finish and installed it in our 2005 Windsor. Fits easily through the door and has just as much or more usable space as the Norcold 1200 did. Getting the Norcold out was a chore but we got it done. We insulated the back wall with 1" foamboard insulation and used spray foam to insulate the removable panel. This is the best project we have done. It runs off the existing inverter using the plug that used to be used for the ice maker. Cools down in about 2 1/2 hours (our Norcold was taking 26+ hours) and keeps the ice cream hard. The box for this fridge is quite a bit smaller so we trimmed around it with 6" wide wood from Lowe's, stained to sort of match the existing trim (I did this myself so the stain work doesn't exactly match). The whole project took me about three weeks working on it "when I felt like it" and cost about $500 give or take.

I just replaced the output shaft seal on the transmission on mine (400 ISL with MH3000 Transmission). It took about fifteen minutes. Got the seal from Cummins ($56) in Orlando. One of my U-joints failed so I already had it all apart. That is another story that I'll write and post later. The seal wasn't leaking much but I prefer to replace before it gets worse and since I already had the driveshaft off it wasn't much additional work. I used a PVC fitting in the correct diameter to tap the new seal back it. I think it is a 4" diameter. Worked well.

I go to Bucees in Daytona a lot (we have a place there and generally leave from our trips from there). There is no problem getting in and out except sometimes, like others have said, when it is super busy (Friday afternoon and Sunday afternoon mostly). This particular Bucees typically has diesel for about 25 to 30 cents less than the other stations around there because they are competing with Sam's Club across the street. The brisket is very good too.