klcdenver

https://www.rvajack.com/ 
 

The website says they offer technical assistance. 

It would also help if you state year and model motorhome you have.

I would ask Tom Cherry to help trouble shoot this. 

You might pull the gear off and turn it around to get you by until you can find new. 

The po could have possibly had the motor reprogrammed to put out 400hp. Get the serial number from him and check with Cummins would be the best. If it is a true ISL400 on certain serial numbers there was a recall for a connecting rod failure but was for 2007 models. It could have been retrofitted to a ISL400 but not likely.

You might try a salvage yard and find what you would need.

Spacer part number is 3910128. I bought a genuine Cummins on eBay last month for 65.00. You will need bolts about 1” longer than the ones you have. I am not at home until tomorrow and I have the bolt spec and size you need there. So if you need that info send me a message. 

There is a rod adjustment to move the radiator back and forth. One on each side of the shroud. It is a bitch to get the nuts broke loose and adjusted. Check this you may not need a spacer. You can call me if you need more info tomorrow after 1000 CST I just went thru all of this last month. 402-319-3445

I bought an aluminum one from this place last year. He did a really nice job on it. He will build the site glass on which side you need for access. Last year price 425.00 included shipping

C-Low Fab and Performance

5146 SE Jerry Dr, Prineville, OR 97754                   541-610-2574   Chris Lowenstein

I have hankook tires and they ride rougher than Michelins, especially the 16 ply front tires. 

It is called a Molex Connector. Of course finding the exact size is the hard part. Many places sell them. Probably easiest to buy the male and female as a set that will handle that size wire (probably 12 gauge) and replace both.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjbwNK168iAAxXkmGoFHcNNBhsQFnoECCUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.molex.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2Fconnectors%2Fwire-to-wire-connectors&usg=AOvVaw0-Fp24DBsuScB0ebwKsyFp&opi=89978449

This article was on the Beaver Ambassador Club forum. Hope it helps.

The Thetford SKU# is 36398
The original Part Number is PN36311
The new one is PN40025 
We have since found these on Amazon and Ebay for about $80 less than was first asked for ours.
You tube has videos that are a help as well.

You really don’t need a tight seal on that side. If you can’t straighten the door you might try a smaller airport in your area if they have an airplane mechanic there. Some of them are excellent sheet metal guys and cheaper than going to a rv repair shop. Good luck. 

It will have a piano hinge on the right side of the panel. On the left side it will have usually 2 screws one towards the top and bottom of the panel. You should have enough room to get a screw driver between the panels to remove the screws. Then it will swing open like your other doors. Now you can get to the screws on the piano hinge.

They are changing part numbers by trying to combine for example water pump and gasket as a kit instead of buying separately. I am finding you need to call with the part number from Cummins Quick Serve. Quick serve is outdated at the moment for many parts.

You can open your engine hatch and with a mirror look towards the rear and you can tell if you have the second hatch or not. Another tip get a piece of pipe that will fit over your ratchet or breaker bar to make an extension and leverage to get the bolts that are hard to reach from the weird position you will be in trying to reach them. If you are built like a snake it helps. Good luck.

You can go to Cummins Quick Serve and get your belt part number. I have a 2007 Diplomat with a 400ISL and the P/N is 3972263. That is a cummins number and can be crossed to other brands.

I had a 2003 Diplomat that did something similar and it was the entry step. It was not extending but a connection on it. It was worse driving in the rain.

I have the same toilet but out of town and cannot go look at mine. If you find the problem, please post your fix. In the mean time I would take off all power to it for a few minutes to see if it might reset the flush panel. Good luck.

If your system takes ATF fluid I would try some stop leak to slow it down so you might can get to a better place to park. I have had really good luck with TransX in transmissions. You can get it at any auto parts store.

Lippert has YouTube videos that show you how to adjust slides.

You should go to Cummins Quick Serve and get the part number for your head. Then you can google it and should be able to find it.

Take a cutting torch and cut the heads off the bolts so you can get manifold and turbo out. Weld nuts back on the studs to extract them without interference from everything. Good luck.

The parking brake was the only one that was labeled on the panel. I figured I knew how to operate it without instructions. LOL  All the rocker switches were labeled on the face.

I just used the JB Weld 5 minute epoxy. You build up the corners and screw holds that have chipped out with it and redrill them when it is dry.

I had the same problem on my 2003 Dip. I removed the panel and used thin aluminum epoxied to the underside for strength. I then used a 3M product called di-noc. It is self sticking and you can use a heat gun to really shrink it to a perfect fit. It comes in many colors and designs. Available on eBay and Amazon.