JDCrow

My oldie had a carefree contraption. 

10 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JD, Did you do the entire trim piece? The self drilling, pro name Tek, screws has an actual drill bit on the end. Hardware store should have them. I used a 1" length Tek. Remember I'm a retired "Union" sheet metal worker.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I did just the 2’ or so that peeled back from the front cap.

1 hour ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JD, My MH also has the aluminum roof. As I was doing the recaulking along the top of the roof trim piece, I noticed that there were spots that had pulled away. I pulled off the rubber(?) trim that covered whatever was holding the trim piece on. I had screws in every 2-3 holes of the trim piece, some were broke. What I did on the roof line trim was the same that I did on the lower side trim piece. I replaced existing screws and put screws in every hole on the trim piece. If the existing screw broke, I would put a new one in next to it. The screws I used were size 10-16x1" SS self-drilling (Tek) screws, 5/16 hex head. I had to grind down the diameter of the 5/16 hex head driver bit to fit in the trim piece slot. Couldn't replace the trim piece screws that are under the slide topper, but reached in as far as I could. I couldn't believe they used pop rivets in the beginning years of assembly to hold on the trim pieces.

Gary 05 AMB DST

I tried some 1 1/4” self tappers and couldn’t get them to go in. So went with the 3M and rivets. Would have liked to get some screws in 

1 minute ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JD, what roof do you have?

Gary 05 AMB DST

2 piece Aluminum with the Big buck rivets down the center. 

3 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

That 5200 be good.  Don’t ever get your bottom glued to a toilet seat with it.  For you and other folks info.  Any high strength adhesive EXPANDS during curing.  When i glued on and pop riveted Chris Throgmartin’s Guardian Plates (did 3 so not a novice), I always put the “T Posts” back under each piece and lifted the slide, on each side, maybe 1/4” so that the 24 hour cure time was under compression.  They are smooth and never moved.  I try to clamp all high strength adhesives like PL and Liquid Nails.  Never had any buckling or such.  The Loctite PL tech support passed along that tip…

Yeah installing my Talin plates gave me the idea for the 3M. Good to know on the expansion. I’ll have to keep an eye on it. 
 

I almost bought the fast cure version, but feared if I had a blow out I’d be in trouble and end up with the grinder. 

1 minute ago, timaz996 said:

It looks good! How did you hold it together while the 5200 was curing? Just trying to put it in my memory bank in case that I ever need it.

I bought 1/2” Rivets and got just enough bite in them to suck it in. I was worried as well and was ready to Jamb a 2x4 staked in the ground up against it. 

Realized I should be posting here. Anyway if moderators want to move the last few topics to here, great! 
 

So I noticed the roof had let go and pulled back about 2’ in length. It made sense on how to do the repair. But after digging into it, the rivets failed, and there is a strip bonded to the sidewalk and the roof rivets into that strip. 
 

Well they didn’t hit the holes right at the factory, missed some of the strip. I was worried about using rivets again, tried a self tap screw to no avail.

While this might not be the right application, I decided to use 3M marine adhesive. The stuff is solid once cured. 
 

After cleaning up and drilling out some rivets, I gave it a go. And it set up nice. 

today got the trim piece in and caulked the strip. Turned out way better than I thought it would. 

2 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

I went the opposite route and converted my coach last month to “true Toppers” open in Eugene, Oregon and I am happy I did it. You can find videos on YouTube to show what they are.

I’ve seen those on James’s YouTube channel. Pretty slick 

5 minutes ago, Tom Wallis said:

I replaced my toppers a couple of months ago. They are different than yours so I don't know if this would work for you.

One end of the topper has the load of the spring on it and the other end is free. On the drivers side I disconnect the free  end and was then able to slide out the topper. A screw driver in one of the holes will lock the tube while you're doing it.

On the passenger side the unloaded end was facing them awning so I wasn't able go that way. The other end was loaded with spring tension and I didn't want to release it.

Solution: Notch one of the end plate holes. Now all I have to do to change the topper is remove the 2 screws in the cover, unroll the tube and lock and slide the topper out.

Oh, I did brake a couple of screws on the driver side before I got smart.

 

Yeah these are new, lippert. They had some wonky topper that you could pull down over the window and secure it to the side. The topper itself was too short to make it to the ends of the slide. So never sure if it’s value. These cover the whole slide, feel a little more protection from leaks 

40 minutes ago, TomV48 said:

All I've got to say "pretty colors" for an rv

LOL yeah the Miami Vise era 

Did the bed slide last year and just wanted to get out and have fun, so put this one off till now.

Ran into solid frame on one side so of course the screws broke instantly. Drilled out and ran some sheet metal self tappers 

15 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Make sure you use non-oil based sealant on the skylight or the Lexan will crack.  

SUREBOND | SB-140 SKYLIGHT & WINDOW BUTYL SEALANT

Sika 715 

59 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Good looking job. I think to remember Van Williams' ultimate solution to avoiding cracks by fabricating an aluminum frame that sandwiches the layers. Of course, Van is a master fabricator.

Thanks!
It’s a one piece skylight, and I used the rivet gun. Just the right about of tension to squish the self leveling without breaking the plastic. Worked slick 

Well, weather is turning fast so got it in. I’ll have to come back and maybe do what Gary did, add some tape to cover the stained areas from the tar. Maybe tape off and add more Sika 

Used everyone of these tools 

2 hours ago, Gary M said:

Mine was rivets and screws. Every where screws were used the skylight was cracked. Put super small washer under screws then used Eternabond and self leveling caulking along edges of eternabond.

Looks great! Man the tar tape is tough 

We noticed water in the inner skylight. I thought hey, if the RV geeks can do get it done, so can I. 
 

Well, yeah for pop rivets 

52 minutes ago, Gweedo said:

We use Irish spring in bays, mothballs at the tires AND since we are plugged in to shore power, I use a heavy paper plate, cut a slit in it to the middle n slide it of the electrical cord cutting off their bridge to the rig. The mice can’t get around the plate,  it a trick we use on our houseboat.  

I use a black toilet plunger with a slit in it for our electric cord. Now the Sewer hose is a tough one. 

They are PITA’s for sure 

I’ve done really good with the foam, none are “in” living areas of the Coach now. 
 

We are trying out the whole rope light around our toy hauler now and so far so good. We don’t get out to it but once a week and nothing. 
 

I have traps set now, up in the attic and we will see. 

Wife found some extremely old poo and now we are in DEFCON 4

I thought I heard something, so started pounding on the ceiling. I get this weird castanet noise. It’s between 2 trusses, on the other side of the ducting. Pulled a speaker out and fished a camera in, oh boy. 
 

Found an old stash of seeds. So now I have a new “access” hole and rigging different hose configurations to get the dancing seeds out and a trap up. 
 

The whole park we stayed at a few years ago surrounded a woman who was dropping bird seed everywhere, thinking she was Snow White and the mice were in most rv because. 
 

Here’s to getting them out. I have a big punch list already on the coach and this wasn’t on it 

Here’s my set up and in case you want to know what the trusses look like. And some seeds 

I’d venture to say there is not a hole under then.  There wasn’t with the big dome sat. 

The big dome? Mine is gone, they just left the mounts there so there were no holes to get leaks. 
 

On the traveler. My wires do not go straight down, they go out. I doubt  there is a hole under mine. Where are your wires? 
 

They make a base plate to go on to help mount the traveler. If you don’t already have it, you could use it to cover over any ring you find 

Extremely sorry. That is a long time do have a pup in the family. You will be lost for quite some time. Hoping you can remember all the great memories she gave you to keep you going.

Congrats!

06, Cummins 400 has an EGR? 

19 minutes ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I Would Not take my motorhome to any repair place that Was Not a Factory Authorized Service Center.  Here today, gone tomorrow.  Chuck B

If it’s out of warranty what does it matter? Unless you’re talking super high dollar Newell or Prevost, most of the RVs today share so many of the components. 
 

A lot of repairs are appliances, seals/damage, slides, etc. These are all shared components between manufacturers. 
 

Here’s the link