JDCrow

One of the biggest obstacles we face here, and I’m sure other places 

https://www.redfin.com/city/1543/OR/Bend/housing-market

Driving more and more into poverty and RVs. I have more than a few clients that have very well paying jobs that live in RVs out in the national forests. They use the gym to shower, and of course laundry etc. 

3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

It is sad

I'm not going to put anyone down, at the end of the video the driver explains that the owner ended up having to go into hospice and forfeited the truck to the city so it could be hauled off and scrapped, however, during the time it was empty someone moved into it.   My guess is that a situation like this happens all the time, people fall into hard times and can't recover.  

Hell that may be me one day, so I'm not going to second guess the circumstances. 

I kinda mull this in my head at times, and I’m with you. I don’t know what I’d do if I lost my wife. I’d be a step or two down this road. 
 

We are trying to right the ship here with making hard drugs illegal again, and it should help in the long run. 

Follow him, he lives down the street from me. 
 

And not to stray to far off topic, but it’s rampant here:

https://www.instagram.com/best_of_china_hat?igsh=MTczeGFwZGtubGcxaA==

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/sonsofsmokey/id1625870688

1 minute ago, Frank McElroy said:

This article is worth a thousand words.  It has all the info including pictures that you need to distinguish between a conventional and Kongsberg system.

Today these once obsolete dash switch modules used in the Kongsberg system can now be repaired.

Thanks very much 

54 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

First, lets set the record straight.  You are “mixing” things and its better for those reading this to understand the whole story.  There is, I think, a file or two that goes into detail.

Circa 2005 or so, Monaco “updated” ALL DYNASTY and above to TWO DIFFERENT “Intellitec” systems.

The first….and which Frank alluded to, as well as the OP’s question is in the Front and Rear RUN BAYS.  Don’t hold me to the numbers, someone needs to count….and it IS on the drawings,  There are about 13 or so Front RUN Bay boards.  There are about 8 or so Rear RUN bay boards.  These are the BOARDS IN QUESTION.

@Frank McElroy and @pwhittle are members that can, at a much lower “tip”, analyze and replace chips and reprogram these.  In some cases, they also can “fix” a board that has a shorted out (OPEN) copper trace or the strips on the bottom.  There is one other source, but their prices and credibility and quality has been called into question by some members as well as field techs who diagnose and isolate a board and ship it to them.  We are FORTUNATE to have this resource here.

Continuing…..the “upgrade” circa 2005/6 was “sporadic” at best.  We have owners of 2005 Executives that have the ORIGINAL, Non Intellitec MH as wells as owners that DO.  Supposedly, the higher ends were done first…then down the food chain. The RULE of thumb was that the Dynasty was a 2006 upgrade. BUT Monaco published TWO different manuals in 2005 for them.  BOTTOM LINE…we have to ASK or have a member post pictures of the Front or Rear to determine which system….and, unfortunately, many responses or advice from the NON Intellitec owners is given to Intellitec owners…. Then the member with the problem is totally confused and frustrated as the component or circuit or whatever they are told to find….AIN’T IN THEIR MH.

Moving along.  The INTERIOR Intellitec Multiplexed Lighting and lighted key pads and Central Processing Unit and the “output modules” were also included….

The circuit boards in question here are NOT MULTIPLEXED….they are funky with all sorts of lights and test buttons and such….but they send out conventional Analog  (12 VDC signals).  OK….take a deep breath…..it gets WORSE.

NOW…. You mentioned the infamous KONGSBERG CCM (Chassis Control Modules)that  are in the FRONT RUN BAY.  That eliminates the Intellitec boards….which is the issue.  HOWVER..all but ONE of the Rear Intellitec Boards was also replaced.  It is MY UNDERSTANDING, that only the #6 Intellitec Board in the REAR RUN bay was a “HOLDOVER” in the NEW (and improved?) CCM System.  That, BTW, runs or controls the BIRD charging system and Boost and such…

NOW….again, the inconsistency of Monaco comes out.  SOME of the Dynasty in 2008, had a K’B CCM….a rare few….but out there.  Supposedly, the SIG’s in 2008 WERE CCM.  NOT ALWAYS TRUE.  BUT, supposedly….all as in EVERY ONE of the 2009 models was CCM.  Now….is this in concrete?  NOPE.  Sometimes an older model with “fall out” or be in a transition year and get “a next year model number”.  So, we always ASK for photos to verify folk’s issues before we delve in….and hope that other contributing members understand the nuances …but unfortunately, many folks spend time hunting for something that is NOT on their MH, due to an inaccurate post.

Sorry for the length….but sometimes a simple question has to be answered with “IT DEPENDS”…..Frank just posted with a comment….mine matches his and I just went into more detail and background….as this post can be used for information….

 

Perfect, I would freak if made my mind on a coach only to find out I had a potential brick in my electrical 

Which models have the Kongsberg Chassis setup? 

Thanks everyone. Not sure anyone will have to tear into their pump, but I hope if you do you can at least see what’s in there. 
 

Update:

spent the night, ordered the part yesterday with no arrival date provided or known.

wrecker arrived at noon, by the time he got to our house, we kenworth called and said part was in. 
 

Quick degrease and wash, swapped the snubbers. 
 

From what I can wrap my head around after reading install from Cummins, the Mech over tightened the snubber. It’s 10lbs then 80 degrees then 5 degrees. That was new one for me, I’m sure someone can explain it better.

Back in the road in the morning. She purrs. I did notice when I picked it up from him it had a lope to it. I figured from sitting but no know sucking air 

The saga on my Capa pump continues. 
Some may know I tracked down a leak on the back Of the pump. I was able to get just the distributor, and saved a whole pump. 
 

Unfortunately, the mechanic was inept and ended up with a $4000 bill to fix. I told him exact what todo. He tried several different ways to access the pump, and ended up doing it the way I told him. 

He had the coach 4 Months, which caused us to miss a trip and had to take our truck instead, but which resulted in our accident.

Now back on the road, nervous, with a new toad, and lo and behold, the snubber assembly on the accumulator is puking fuel everywhere. Here in a rest area 70 miles from home. I have tools and got the snubber out, looks like he forgot to put in the seal disc if I’m looking at it right. 
 

Cummins has 1 in their whole system, on order. Coachnet is rounding up a tow home. 

Not insulated in my 03 Dip

Picture 

Good eve, sorry just all over the place. No I haven’t gotten to yet. Life got in the way. 
 

The fuel pump developed a leak. Fought that, then took it in and the mech took forever. Dealing with auto accident from last trip. Just had knee surgery but hoping to hit the road in April. It hasn’t been a huge deal for us as we haven’t been much in the heat.

I don’t see it being a huge issue. Just start with the first bolts you come to and keep digging in. 
 

Pics and labeled zip locks to help put it together. My pump is froze. Going to have to get the gas out of system before I tear into it.

post your progress 

You can replace just the guts of the fridge with JC products, but still will have the same seals on doors if yours are getting old. We have the 2 way kit in ours from them. 
 

Look up SEM products 

After the last Jeep was totaled, picked up a Jeep Gladiator. 
 

This a Mojave edition. I decided to go with roadmast this go around. They make a Mojave specific mount for it. It bolts up to existing holes, just one to drill. 
 

It does require cutting the skid plate to fit over the mounted plates. However I have a Jeep rubicon steel front bumper to add. Because it’s skid plate mounts to the bumper and the Mojave’s does not, I had to cut it to fit over the mounting plates as well. I also need to recut the Mojave skid plate to fit around the Rubicon bumper. Anyway got the winch in as well. 
 

I’ll be modifying a Mopar wiring harness from a Jeep JL Wrangler to fit this truck. 

Sidewall is hung gel coat, 1/8” think or so. There is no foam behind it, it’s open to the interior board with fiberglass insulation. It’s hung (glued) to the steel studs in the wall. 
 

I would think some anchors pushed in would be fine. They rivet the top to the fiberglass in the moulding. 

I have both the 12V and 18v Milwaukee and will never go back to air. I use them on my excavator and skid steer that get packed with dirt and they power right through everytine 

Did you check under your drivers seat? 
 

I was able to get paint codes from Rev along with decal placements 

Yeah not sure on just the red, I did have reverse tails in mine. Your original pics showed the lights with the reverse lens so that’s where I went. I should have read further, .but being a dude, I’m visual and like pictures😜

I’m not up on your throttle thing, but these are plug and play into original sockets, (the expensive lights that is) so if you have signal at the socket, they will function. 
 

Good luck on your quest. 

15 minutes ago, tomevansfl said:

Like Warren mine are cracking in the same area on my 2001. Mine look like JDCrow’s except the upper lense is amber. I’d like to replace the lower red set and is turn signal. Any idea what would be an appropriate replacement?

I don’t believe you’ll find the amber. Both these are Chevy taillights. I had to mod the fiberglass to get them in.

I tried the clear fancy, the broke. Tried the cheaper LED, they quit working. Now on the expensive LED and they are holding up.

Been down this road, search for my posts. I’ve tried all the ones you’ve mentioned and had to bite the bullet and get expensive ones 

Manual is right 

46 minutes ago, timaz996 said:

I have four Lossigy 200ah batteries and you can now get them for $500 each. Two years full time now and I love them. I have two other friends that full time with them also.

I know they have come WAY down, I have a 200ah and thinking about moving to another unit. The prices are falling fast. 
 

You get 560ah (2 batteries) for $999

This battery is getting a lot of play on YouTube. James AZ expert and Eric at Nomadic Fanatic (he put 2 in) 

Anyone here take a chance on one yet?