JDCrow

Started to mess around with covering over the plumbing in the bedroom. Here’s a mock up

Well shoot the pics upload black 

1 hour ago, Cubflyer said:

I’ve started this project at the front stairs area and used Gorilla Glue Construction Adhesive, it’s clear and comes in a caulking tube container.  Seems to be holding on the vertical surfaces, wondering how much and where to use glue on the horizontal surfaces?  Just around the edge? On every piece? Or just on the edges of the pieces so the whole thing just ‘floats’.  Advice?

Going to glue every piece in the hump. I’m a 3M junkie so going with their semi permanent/flexible adhesive-sealant and see how it goes. The main floor is floating 

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Yes, it is the standard stair tread trim.  Cuts pretty clean, I used a cut off saw and didn't have any chipping.  Still tedious to fit with a nice clean joint so I'd cut it long and slowly shave a little off until I was satisfied.  I used liquid nail to glue it down, gave me some time to get the alignment right.  Once it starts setting up it there for the long haul, so far no problem.

The stairs was a challenge to get the trim to look good. 

I bought the LVP at Lowes, it was the best Pergo that they carried in stock but unfortunately did not carry the trim so had to special order.  Pricey but no other good option unless I went with the metal.  

I did remove the carpeting of the bed box and put LVP on it, I used quite a bit of liquid nail on it and used clamps to hold it place until it somewhat cured.  Glad I completely removed the bed box and did it as I found the rollers had chewed into the bottom, fixed by adding metal strips.  Also added extra support under the storage area, there was only one support in the middle, when I had to work on the slide motor I had to be careful not to break the thin plywood on the bottom.  Doing the bed box made the final project turn out much better.

Bro that is a work of art! I haven’t thought about the bed box yet, but you have inspired me to add it to the list. 

19 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Nice,

When I did my flooring int the bedroom I was hesitant about doing the engine "hump".  Mine is a square corner so easier to deal with.  I did use the trim, turned out pretty good, it sticks out a little but not that much.  Been in place +2 years now.  I put the floor portion down first and then the step up portion down which eliminated the need for trim at the lower corner. 

Looks great! Is that the stair nose on the top? I have that coming in. It’s vinyl so will be easier to cut and work with. What adhesive did you use? 

I’ve had the floor down for a year now and just haven’t been able to get over the “hump” of the engine cover. 
 

I’ve seen a few here with some trim on the edges, and it kinda stuck out a bit. Buddy said let him try something, and it worked insanely well. 
 

He heated and formed the plank for perfect corners. 
 

Here’s the progress 

He did a test 90 angle 

1 minute ago, Grey Goose said:

Disappointing that the two Victron chargers do not play nice with each other. I will say that I am very disappointed with the bluetooth range on the Victron DC to DC charger that I have. I have several battery powered bluetooth temp monitors that have much better range.

Well I’m not sure how you charge a battery from two different sources at once. I mean, I never stick 2 chargers in a battery. 
 

I don’t have two bad a range in the charger, but will be upgrading to the touch screen inside this spring. 

10 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

That is interesting, I remember when you posted about that previously.  With my rig, I have not seen that issue, but I am using the older Heart Interface 2000 converter with a Renogy 60A DC-DC charger.  One time I checked my BMS app and I was charging the battery at a full 160A using both the converter and DC-DC charger.  I would have assumed that the converter might cut out when it detected the higher voltage on the line put out by the DC-DC, and indeed, it probably does eventually. So this issue might be specific to a particular setup.  In any case, easy enough to manage by turning off the converter charger when underway if necessary (or the DC-DC if your has a way to do that easily).

 

Yeah I probably is isolated to the Victron Multiplus and DC-DC. I wish I knew more about or at least could understand electronics. My grandfather was an incredible guy who built his own Ham radios out of tubes, none of those genes seemed to get passed on to me 

On 2/5/2024 at 10:03 PM, MJ.STIGER said:

I think the Victron has 2 x 120 outputs? Have not dug into that part of the swap yet. 

 

Yes, but what does your Xantrax have? Sorry I not responding quickly. If you quote me in your response, I’m alerted that I need to get off my butt

So the only issue I have run into with the DC-DC charger is for those who run their genset while underway to power the ACs. You will have to turn the Dc-Dc charger off if you run the genset and engine at the same time. You would be essentially charging the batteries from 2  different sources at the same time. My Victron shut completely down and stated I had a “ripple” which I dug into but really only understood that the two chargers interfered with each other and the System just shut down to protect its self. 
 

Turning Dc~Dc off is easy in the Victron App

18 minutes ago, MJ.STIGER said:

I have a bit older Xantrex unit Not much for programing that i am aware of at the moment. I am thinking about the Victron 12 | 3000 MultiPex II. After looking at the cost its not as bad as expected. I need to check wiring. but i think it will be a pretty close swap out. I do need to check foot print. But figure that might be a latter this year project. 

Did this swap on my Dip. You can search for it. If your Xantrax had 2 legs coming out like mine did, you’ll want to figure out how to deal with it as 1 goes to a circuit of plugs and the other the microwave. 

I saw this an had a moment. Years ago my favorite forums sold out to a corporation who was buying up forums for the advertising $$$ and peoples info.

Anyway, I went to delete a post and found out I couldn’t. They didn’t allow it anymore. I assume it was there to keep whatever info profile they had on you for targeted ads in place. Needless to say I left the forum and had to request that they delete all info they had on me. Was a weird experience for sure 

Lets hope we stay local here, so thanks for the hard work that people put in to keep this independent 

Batt boost, I believe you are referring to the big boy combiner. Much has been written here about this. The direct answer is no, since you are most likely still using lead acid as your chassis or start batteries. They don’t play well when you marry them to your new lithium. 
 

There is a device out there, google “lithium big boy” and you should find it. It replaces the OEM big boy which allows your batteries to play nice 

I just eliminated my big boy combiner and carry a small jump box should my batteries go dead. 
 

Found this 

https://explorist.life/how-to-wire-a-li-bim-battery-isolator/

I’m confused I guess.

If you are not hitting max load, ever, then you concerned that you are overloading your wheels if you buy a tire that requires more psi than the wheel is rated to handle, even if you don’t hit the 125 psi on the wheel because you will only need 100-110 psi to carry the actual load that you have loaded on your coach?  

After weighing your corners I’ll doubt you’ll ever have enough weight to hit max load. 
 

I fall in the 100psi range on the tire charts after weighing the coach. 

The Aluminum roof is easy to distinguish by the row of large buck rivets right down the center covered with aluminum, tar based tape. 
 

Side point on the Diplomats of this era is a hung, gelcoat wall. No vacuum bonded styrofoam, it has fiberglass insulation in the walls. 

9 minutes ago, Dragracer said:

I’ve had it 6 months. It was like that when I got it. 

Ok, IMO you can pound that out from the inside, then used some metal filler,prime,paint.

The upper cabinets will come out. I believe the ceiling is in first then cabinets up, so you would have to cut a section of the foam ceiling to get to area affected. 
 

A 2” or so rounded off chunk of wood and a dead blow hammer to slowly tap it out. It aluminum, so it will not have memory like steel and snap back. Get it close to smooth as you can or are comfortable with. 
 

Then like above, filler/prime/paint. Reinstall ceiling/cabinet. You can always put a top piece in the cabinet so the cut out piece isn’t visible. 

As others have mentioned the ladder, my best guess is a small tree or branch hit that main dent and smaller branches took out the ladder. Uncle just had a tree fall in his yard and take out the mirror on his coach. 
 

Would be an awesome project for you to tackle and take pics of for future people who want to see the under roof and see the structure/truss
 

How long you had it? The aluminum is hard to damage other than hitting something. They are “floating” roofs. 

You are not hooked to shore power? 

11 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

The worst part of Starlink is dealing with the business practices of Musk. He raises or lowers prices at will. Changes the technology without giving you the opportunity of upgrading. There is no customer service toll free #. I am told they do not respond to emails.  I have to wonder if things will change when Amazon enters the market. Despite my whining we are considering buying a unit. Amazing technology.

He owns the biz, he can do what he wants. If it’s a great product, people will buy it. Personally I don’t own a Tesla, but the no salesman/dealership model is awesome. The no stores for Starlink is awesome. His products speak (and sell) for themselves. 

I’ve taken some of what he does and incorporated it into my biz. I have a phone number, but don’t answer it. I have a lobby, but we don’t man it. I have a website, but don’t answer emails from it until the potential customer reads the canned response and follows the directions to get in touch with us. 
 

To Much time wasted on people who want me and my biz to conform to them. I’m successful because I’ve honed my craft and don’t not need new clients all the time. I know not every biz can run this way, but it’s been said, if you try to please everyone, you end up pleasing no one 

way off topic. I’m sure Tom had missed me. 
 

Anyway, I have a a few starlinks for home and travel. Love them 

Have you seen the new dish? No motors, it’s almost flat on the ground. 
 

I was invited to beta it, but I have 3 dishes now and don’t need to upgrade……yet 

https://www.starlinkhardware.com/starlink-gen-3-dish-launched/

Pretty coach. I love the older paint schemes.  

Got a couple of those around town. They get notice to “move” every few weeks. 
 

They seem to attract trouble 

https://ktvz.com/news/crime-courts/2023/11/24/china-hat-transient-accused-of-pointing-gun-at-touring-family-firing-shot-tells-judge-he-wants-to-represent-himself/

Strange as I cannot stand these. I’d much rather solder by hand and cut shrink wrap to fit. 

Yes, I believe I put a Ford one in. Just spliced the two wires together. You can search for thread, it’s on here somewhere 

Torque Multiplier. You will need to to torque the bolts back on. It might help take off the bolt. 

Had mine done, right when I bought the coach, I agree, I could have done it if I was at home, but was on the road. 
 

I seem to remember there is a sequence with the Trans that you go through in cockpit with the controller after the fluid change? 

I’ve Always use the axles