JDCrow

I’m having a local plastic shop make a new top panel as anything old is getting pretty brittle.

Here is where you can start though

https://usedrvparts.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/f/usedrvpartsrepairandaccessories.pl?

I would take a look at AZ RV Experts on YouTube. 
 

James does amazing work and you can see his work to get an idea on how a pro seals up stuff. You will be amazed. 
 

Take a few mins and watch him Re-laminate a painted Winnebago Coach. And watch him rebuild a brand new totaled Allegro Red. Really awesome to watch. He also does lots of re-roofs with belt sealing 

Uggg yes Facebook. Have it for our biz, but never log in personally. Same with Instagram

Would love to see pics. Going to Cobble my dash for awhile. Professional work is inspirational 

9 hours ago, BobSchmeck said:

JDCrow 

Are you talking about the same Sika that you use for sealing cracks in concrete? 

Sorry same company, different product

Sika 505

Out camping and have no internet till we goto town 

Ken Sutton
Customer Service Representative
RV
REV Parts
800-509-3417

That’s from the bottom of the email sent from them. 

Have you called Monaco? Parts guy was super helpful getting me info on paint and graphics.

And hard to beat Sika for sealant/adhesive 

https://www.headlightsdepot.com/catalog/monaco

I feel what you are saying, a lot. I’m nowhere near retirement, but know that I have a limited amount of time, and health. 
 

Reading over your post, I know what would pain me the most, my wife not being on the same page. It’s been a struggle for my wife to get the idea of our older MH. But she’s coming around. She even said she likes it now that I have it mostly complete. If we were not on the same page, life would suck. 
 

Not wanting to sound like DR Phil, but getting your wife involved would help, IMO. 

I am trying to get this MH more off grid ready. Mostly just to get off the freeways, back into places where there are not too many people. 
 

Our coach is like yours, almost 20 yrs old and stuff is wearing out. Just hard plumbed the kitchen drains while on vacation as I type, and now the step cover stopped working. Still can’t figure out one leg of my 120 that won’t work with the GFCI. 
 

Anyway, try and find any sort of joy, if just for a night here or there. 
 

The axles are attached to the “H” frame (it’s the shape)

At each corner of the the “H” is an air bag and a shock, and these are attached to the main rail frame. (In a raised rail, or other structure in a mono coach)
 

This is why there is lots of play/sway in the system it seems. The H frames are up to 6’ in length with a squishy air bag packing all the body with its inertia rolling around. 

Late night mess, but was able to wake up to some awesome tunes 

Talin plates on and topper done. Long night ahead to wrap up some electrical to head to coast tomorrow.

A little aluminum flying around. 

Started on the Talin plates while wife cleansed inside. 
 

First side was learning curve, second side is better for my cutting ability. 
 

I drilled the holes. Quick bite and will caulk and rivet. 

I’ve read through this before to help. I’m no expert 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f24/which-roadmaster-chassis-do-i-have-129117.html

Gearing up for adding a new slide out topper. 
One of my leaks was from the old one ponding water in the middle, either from rain or from the AC unit. So off with the old wonky topper.

Had to drill out 2 of the self tappers in the side upright brackets. What a pain! Riveted up the holes and new brackets up. 

Got the bay doors and fender skirt back from paint, currently installing 

21 minutes ago, DJR1SR said:

Looking at your transfer switch hook up the bottom 2, 4 wire are, shore power and generator and the top is the coach? 

Yep, exactly. Unfortunately the Gen wire in and power out are only so long, so you can see they cross cause I wanted the EMS 

36 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

JDCrow, what is the EMS Bulldog?

Gary 05 AMB DST 

Sorry, I think Bull Dog , it’s a “Watch” dog. 
 

Here’s the link from a Hughes 

https://hughesautoformers.com/power-watchdog-smart-surge-protectors/

Here’s a look inside the transfer switch also. This was a temp hook up to make sure things worked. I’ve modified it since to be permeant 

Just got rid of my IOTA and put in the progressive knock off, Go Power. They are the same. Added a EMS Bulldog. 
 

Was very Straight forward. Wires in, match the colors wires out. I believe there is a schematic on the back of new cover. 
 

They are wired different than the iota 

Our town is 100k people and we are nowhere close to getting 5G. We currently live 1500 feet from the city limits, and not served by local cable broadband. I should copy the email from century link, it read “we are so happy to be able to provide you with 1 mb of high speed for $99 a month. Not 1Gb, 1mb.

I’m not saying Starlink is the answers to my prayers, but there isn’t a lot of incentive in my mind for cell to build out in rural. The ability to have consistent internet no matter where the RV stops would be cool

After all, the program I’m on it “Beta than nothing” and it’s true, we have nothing. My line of site company is 13 Mbs, my LTE Verizon is 30 Mbs

One thing that is kinda freaky to think about is this:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kessler_syndrome

This was theorized way back in 1978. This I can imagine after Chinese space junk keeps falling out of the sky.

20 minutes ago, Biljol said:

I just did the lithium upgrade. Combining the two banks will depend on the the type of starter battery’s you have. If they are agm the charge profiles is close to lithium that a battery combiner will work I use the magnum SBC it limits the draw from any charge source to 30 amps. This allows me to charge both directions depending on what I am doing at the time.

if you have standard lead starting battery’s you will need 2 dc/dc charger one for one direction and one for the other. Or you can use a standard battery charger when not driving off the inverter to charge the chassis.

My understanding is not to start while the boost switch is engaged with lithium house batteries but what you can do is boost to charge the starter battery’s for like 20 min then disconnect the boost and start.

The boost will charge the starter battery’s usually very fast from the lithium.

my genny starts from my chassis battery’s so no issues there I prefer that so if my house batteries get to low I can still start the genny. I don’t know how you would convert your genny starting battery’s.

I just bought a new Victron Multiplus 2 and it will charge the chassis batteries, it has a direct wire feature. 
 

I haven’t had time to wrap my head around the solenoid or the Bird for that matter. Not sure if they just need to go. 
 

Also, a dc/dc charger to have the alternator charge the lithium while going down the road? Someone mentioned that earlier, and victron had a way to do it, but again, in a holding pattern at the moment  

Not bad. Just did with help. I believe the poppets were pretty much preset, the paperwork that came from Weller I think said they were anyway. 
 

I had to get a Torque multiplier. The one nut was I think 500 ft lbs. Amazon had one for $140 so picked it up. 
 

Messy, drained the oil as best we could before tackling the box. 
 

I can’t remember If we downloaded instructions or they come from Weller, but they were taken straight from a thread 

Built a new shelf for under kitchen sink. Reinstalling after diner 

PITA but it’s in and works 

I shut it all down. Computers, phones, Apple TV’s, it’s all turned off. The internet knows I’m on bed, but not what’s going on. LOL 

Out of curiosity, without prying, what has to stay connected 24hr to the net? Triggers for stock trades on the Foreign markets? 

I’m no solar wiz, can’t you just unplug it when not in use?
 

95 Amps was stated In a 22 hr straight pull? 
 

Again, solar is a new, to me, still learning. How does is work when calculating for size of system?