JDCrow

Read through your post. 
 

are you upgrading your Inverter/charger as well?

Looking at this upgrade myself. 
 

I have not delved in the specifics much as it’s a later project, but I’m looking at the Victron Multiplus 2 and it will charge the chassis  batteries. Has a plug in for it. 
 

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/MultiPlus-II_12V_3kVA_2x120V/MultiPlus-II_3kVA_120V-en.pdf

2 hours ago, bikedavem said:

I have the Norcold 1200 with the Dutch Aire cooling unit in my Endeavor also. I've installed the Fridge Defend controller for added safety. The integrated fan controller is a bonus. https://www.arprv.com/index.php

2002 HR Endeavor 

Thanks very much. Will look into it. 

Thanks, your right, I haven’t got that far into researching the Norcold.

I guess I’ll cross that bridge eventually. A lot will depend on solar as well. I have a smaller footprint on the roof. Ideally, we want to be able to extend stays without shore power, and not run the genny for hours a day.

Thanks again. 
 

Rear AC gasket done. New covers both AC.

Front AC gasket will have to wait till I have more time. Off to the shop for Suspension mods after I get the hoses buttoned on the new surge tank. sensor for it came in today. 

After advice about the absorb refer, I started down the rabbit hole of a Residential fridge. We love ours in our 5vr, however the task of getting one in the door of the Dip looked crazy. 
 

Found JC Refrigeration. They make kits to update Norcold/Dometic.

I figured it upgrade to a straight 12V package for our current Norcold 1200, but opened up the back of my fridge, and PO had a JC update done to this fridge. While it’s still LP/AC, I will sleep better knowing that it’s a solidly built system. I will still be upgrading to the 12V package, the lower  power consumption is alone is well worth it. But I have some time now, and funds to dedicated elsewhere.

Started in on the rear AC as the sun was out. After looking at it 100 different ways, I tried to shim up the “lowest” of the low spot. There doesn’t appear to be any framing around the AC in the rear that spans to the sides. The back square tube stops. 
 

Does not look like much of any water has gotten in over the years. Old gasket is a PITA for sure 

On a high note, just got to work and I’m knee deep in steer axle rubber and keeping between the lines will be easier 

23 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I second that, being on our second or maybe third month from TX to AZ and now in NV, it is near impossible to get into state parks for more than a lucky one day stay. Not that we care since we like to stay away from packed parks but here and there we need refill so I check them out. State and national parks in NV are first come so they are more doable early in the day and always full later on.

I miss the days of first come first serve. Almost  All our National Forest camps here in Oregon went to concessionaire a few years back. Like I mentioned, we gave up trying to reserve. 

Looks great! Did it have an extra layer of subfloor under the tile? Man ours was a bear to get out. That tile is literally cemented to the floating subfloor LOL 

TRW box and pitman arm are in the mail. Well UPS. 
 

I am going to sub out next week the Monaco Watts, cross bars, shocks, and TRW to a shop that has done some work for me in the past. I need to jump on irrigation and getting our property rolling for work. 
 

I’ll get some pics of those items, and current ones I’m doing after work. 
 

Is that the newsletter you spoke of earlier? 

Thanks for heads up! We have used national forest campgrounds for years as that’s what we grew up with. 
 

Few years ago, we just started getting a site in a private RV park near where we like to play  and keeping it May-Oct. 

We still travel, and looking for was to stay “off grid” more, and keep the site. 

Great advise! It’s been quoted, over a million rvs sold last year, only 150k sites built. Buckle up for next few years. 
 

I have a site that charges a few to constantly click on state/national campgrounds to get you a site in your days. You pay a monthly fee based on frequency you want the computer  to refresh your request. I’m not using it currently as I don’t have big plans to travel. 
 

So many people are using apps to get in to make reservations, and then quite a few don’t even show up. It’s peanuts to tie up a site “Just in case” you can break a way for a weekend. The campgrounds can’t let you use the site because the people reserved it and might still show up. On cloudy weekends here at home, the campgrounds are empty, but each site is reserved. 
 

LOL, no skill set at all, so no offense. I’m a learn as you go type.

My Grandfather grew up poor, as did we. It was instilled in me very early to take care of, and fix my own stuff. He taught me how to take stuff apart, analyze issues and repair what I could. He would tell me stuff started out in pieces, and was put together by someone before, so it can be done again. 
 

He was amazing, I wish I had his electrical knowledge though. He was a tube man. He built his own Ham Radios and we’d spend evenings talking all over the world. 
 

My biggest problem is time. I’m not afraid to tear anything apart, it’s the time to put it back together, fixed, that ends up biting me. I have projects all over the place. 
 

Again, thanks for chiming in. I appreciate extra eyes on my work, especially those who know more than me. This is new territory for me. 

And my rollers do adjust a little. I have them cranked up. The factory had zero lag bolts in the bottom of the left roller. I had the shim it up to get the slide to come in even. That’s the side the Filon is cracked on. 
 

I will double check clearance when installing the plates. After we dropped the Bed 6”, it’s pretty easy to acres the rollers as we couldn’t put the false bottoms back in.

Thanks for your insight. Sorry yours was a PITA

I have a Geico slide, so easy a caveman invented it.

No cables, just 2 small rollers and a single center motor with a gear/track setup.

The crown moulding comes in/out with the slide. This is probably a cheaper setup for sure.

Another package in the mail:

The bedroom slide luan has delaminated , and one of the rollers has cracked it.

These are the 12” plate fixes. Nice stuff

Let’s hope they do a better job at cam management than the Cam phasers in my 5.4 Ford V-8 LOL 

a semi-infinite cam. Amazing.

Here is what I have in the power bay:

the TS-50 transfer switch, looked for an Esco, they are back ordered. I read about the hum from other switches, I don’t hear it on the GO Power, or I’m deaf.

The Power Watch Dog is Up Stream, or ahead of the transfer Switch, even though it looks after as it’s toward the front. The wires that ran into the old Iota were only so long. 
 

You can see my temp wiring for shore power, like I mentioned, the cover was broke. 
 

The wires going into the Watch dog to me look unfinished coming out of the Carflex conduits.

any suggestions? 

Here is the GFI in bathroom.

The connected outlets are so random in the coach. The outlet by cooktop is on same circuit, along with the main slide. (Main slide is pic of outlet)

But, outlet opposite the slide is on separate circuit, as is bedroom, except for the TV, it’s on the GFI circuit. Both TVs in fact are on GFI circuit. 
 

There is a GFI in at least 1  bay as well. 

Sorry didn’t mean for it to be confusing 

I didn’t post a pic of the finished product as it’s not finished, I had to temp wire the plug as it’s cracked on the outside lid, and a new one on the way. I need some ideas on how to run the wire from conduit. To me it looks a bit unfinished. Aside from putting the EMS in a box, I’m at a loss. 

Iota came out. Reading here told me it was a fire hazaard

Surge guard went back as it arrived broken. 
 

The progressive (Go Power) was installed. I put the EMS before the transfer switch, to take care of shore power. 
 

GFI receptacle is a new 20Amp, it’s in a bad spot, to my eye,  though the bathroom the wall is narrow and the box is a retro fit. 
 

The Neutral wire on that receptacle is a little brown on the end. So will check all the receptacles and tighten wires/replace. 
 

Thanks for your help! I’ll re-read what you posted when I get off work and see how to apply.  

Upgraded transfer switch and added EMS. 

My GFI still persists though

So if this is one of those Chevy/Ford/Dodge things, let me know. 
 

I’m looking to update our inverter/charger. 
 

contenders:

Xantrax Freedom Pro (Xantrax in the Dip still going strong)

Victron Multiplus 2 (can split legs, hybrid, can charge chassis batteries as well from unit)

Magnum is kinda in 3rd expensive for what it does.

Samplex don’t know much 

The hybrids seem great if you are hooked into family/friends 15 amp to use batteries to boost.

Pure/true wave as well for computers

And ability to upgrade down the road. (Solar, lithium) 

Any experience in longevity, customer service, etc

Seen some razing in the tank and wasn’t sure if it was “bulging” when new. Didn’t want to be stranded with a 20 yr old tank and hoses. So new surge tank today. Low coolant sensor in the morn from Napa 

3 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

The last compartment just has a plastic floor. The battery compartment is constructed to carry the weight'

Gary 05 AMB DST

Indeed it is made of plastic, but it is supported. I think it will handle a few batteries? 

Great delivery today 

25 minutes ago, Dennis H said:

My biggest concern would be to ensure enough ventilation for the battery bank. But, if you decide on Lithium, that's a mute point....Dennis

If I stick with AGM, or Gel for starting then there is no off gassing either? 

2 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Seems like a big job to move them. If you’re just looking for more capacity what about building a shelve/drawer just above the existing batteries 

Definitely an option. The one thing that keeps me Moving that direction is that all three walls in the current battery compartment have items screwed to them. I’d be blocking access to them unless I move them and attach them to the new shelf. It’s an option thanks for input. 
 

Yeah, part of the reason to goto Lithium, easier to maintain. They would stay in the right compartment in the pic with the inverter.

Something similar to this pic