Bob125

I came across this topic by Frank McElroy and downloaded the file and write-up by Tal G. If you search for a file called "Chassis Multiplex FRB Electrical Fire 1.0.0" you will find it. In the write-up, Tal G. suggested to add two circuit breakers for the house and chassis battery power cables feeding the Front Run Box printed circuit board. I am going to do that to my 2009 Beaver Marquis as I feel I have the same system and potential for fire. I've attached a picture showing another power feed to the Chassis Control Module. Does anyone know if I need to add a circuit breaker to this as well? Thanks, Bob... 2009 Beaver Marquis

Having the Kongsberg chassis multiplex on my 2009 Beaver Marquis, I want to make provisions to wire headlights and wipers. And, possibly turn signals. My idea is to make the harnesses, wire into power and install relays and switches in the dash or behind the dash (but leave protected and unconnected until I need them). Then if or when the Kongsberg chassis multiplex gives me trouble with headlights and/or wipers, I can disconnect the connectors and connect to my provisional wiring and switch. Can I tap into the power that is going to the front run box and possibly ground (or should I ground to the chassis or other ground block terminal)? I will use fuses and relays. These power cables coming in from the left appear to be plenty large enough, like #4 awg. Thanks for any advice. 2009 Beaver Marquis

I'm interested in feedback as well. My 2009 Marquis TV's are still going but want to be prepared when they quit. Also, I'm perceiving new TV's will be slightly lighter and output less heat. So, I'm fine if these 2009 TV's quit working. Bob... 2009 Beaver Marquis

Thanks Dave, I will call you. Before I do, I am tracking and working on some different load combinations. For instance, yesterday, the green light stayed on longer than the first observation. I'll get some more history before I call you. It's definitely a situation where I need more education of how this system works. Thanks, Bob...

I was thinking that also (that green led should stay on). If the chassis is holding 12.8-12.9, is that enough not to be too low for starting? If I don’t start for a long time I think they even drain lower like 12.6. I was thinking more like 13.1 -13.3 was better. I know the bulk charge will be over 14v. Yes, this is a 2009 Beaver Marquis with the Kongsberg CCM. I’ve always thought I used up chassis batteries quicker than I should. This last set last 4.5 years. thanks for all the help and info, Bob...

I'm interested as well. Please put me on the list. I'm only hoping for someone to do the same with the Kongsberg CCM. Thx, Bob... 2009 Beaver Marquis

Thanks for the ideas and information. I did check the 7.5a fuses and both were good. When I plug in the Iso Relay green LED is lit. After a while, when the house battery charger goes to float charging the LED goes off. The chassis batteries end up around 12.9v and the house batteries at 13.1v. But the green LED goes out. Does this sound like the BIRD is working? I was thinking the chassis batteries voltage should be around 13.1 (float charge voltage) and the green LED should stay on. Thanks again for any help, Bob...

Does anyone have a manual for Intellitec battery control center / Bird part number 74-00824-000? I'm monitoring my charger and not for sure it's working to charger the chassis battery. Would like to know the voltage thresholds and conditions when the BIRD is supposed to connect the chassis battery to charge. Thanks for any input, Bob...

Thanks for the input. I found an air conditioning outlet in the AV cabinet (pic attached) that has a clear shot to the roof (so I won't have to drill blind and possibly hit something). Of course, this was the last thing I checked after taking apart just about every access panel within 6 feet. 😞 New Question: I'm running this new satellite dish power cord because the old power cord was too light gauge (22 vs 20 AWG). I can use the existing coax cable. Do you think I should use the existing coax cable or cut a larger hole and run a new coax while I am at it? I figured it the existing coax tests good for conductivity, it should be good. Thanks again for any input, Bob...

I'm installing a new Winegard Traveler dish. I've located the existing wiring on the roof and the audio/video equipment cabinet. I was hoping to use those wires to pull and run the new wires. But, the existing wires will not budge. It appears the wires either have a knot/struck or routed with 90 degree angles. I can drill a new hole and path, but my curiosity has the best of me as how the wires were routed at the factory. Would anyone know the typical wire path in the roof that the factory used between the satellite dish and audio/video cabinet? (If there was a typical path). Thx, Bob... 2009 Beaver Marquis

Wanted to chime in on this topic. I have a 09' Beaver Marquis (since new) with the Kongsberg CCM Mux. I've had one Eaton switch group go inop (Center dash - Docking lights, AquaHot Preheat, Engine Block heat) and was able to find a new replacement switch about 2 years ago. Recently I had the lower Eaton switch module go out on the entry door panel (Porch Light, Handle Step light and Step). This time, no Eaton switches found. So, I wanted to offer this up to the group as a work around. Sourced a 3 switch grouping from Amazon along with some strip LED's. Traced all the wires that went to the porch light and handle step lights and spliced into them and ran new wiring to the devices and the switch group. So, no more Kongsberg, just simple hard wiring. I've listed every function of the lower run box CCM and the middle box CCM in the first tray bay. Both of these CCM's run alot of items of course. But, with the list I went through and identified what is "driveable" critical and not. For the driveable critical items, such as wipers, headlights, etc, I'm going to be proactive and go ahead and make the wiring harnesses and switches to have on the shelf if they go inop on a trip. I'll splice into the item enough to get it going till I can get home and wrap up the wiring and new switches permanently. For all the non-mission critical items and there are alot of those (bay lights, etc.) I can live without those until I get home and rewire them later. On another subject, I would be interested in investing and/or learning more how to totally remove and install a new CCM Mux if anyone is thinking about that also. We love our coach and could trade it in or even just junk it and buy a new one, but what a waste. This coach is great and has all the features we need, it's just got this one weakness in the Kongsberg CCM. If I can plan around that, and be proactive and ready for the next failure, I have no need for another coach. One last item I am working on currently - my VIP smart wheel cruise is acting up. But, I just verified yesterday, it is the Clockspring. By checking conductivity of the clockspring pigtail between the connector at the top of the wheel and where it comes out near the floor, I found the clockspring would break conductivity when the steering wheel was turned. It's like the clockspring has a deadband at a certain spot when turning the wheel. Got the clockspring ordered today. Thanks, Bob...

This is very useful information. How do you identify the hot and ground wires J1, J26, J27? "Then I found the hot and ground wires in my forward run box J1, 26 and 27 and cut those." I"m looking at my schematics and do not see those identifies. I have a 2009 Beaver Marquis. Thanks, Bob...