brokenarrow1244

I have the same system, when it is on the light will stay on, meaning you have supplied power to the small heater in the wet bay, when it lights up active, it means the weather has become cold enough to turn on the heater. I have only had the experience to see "active light" while in Utah. There was a freeze warning ay the rv park and I am glad it was working. However, the water pump is on the other bay behind the water heater mounted to the wall. It developed a crack and started to leak and required replacement. Some of the rvers put a 100 watt bulb in that area to keep it warm enough . Sort of like chickens. If it is going to get cold just turn on power to it. If you want to inspect it, it is behind the dump valves across from the water hose.

Noticed the slide out floor metal is starting to separate at the edge. I am looking to get some input about the best material to use to repair it. It looks like I would just inject the material and press it back in place. Looks like the old stuff is, just old stuff.

Veurinks R V Center has them and provides information on how to determine which one you need, there are three lengths. Hope it helps. Replaced mine Jan 2021 for second time. Usually need to work on the pivot after about 2 years.

Mine tends to get stuck against the seal on top, I just push on it a little and it pops loose and continues to raise. I also have a fuse built in that has a small fuse sized knob access from inside the coach

Fluid reservoir level for hydraulic jacks will do this. It also my sound off when driving on slanted areas when it has low fluid. I found out when jacks were lifted and thought one was staying down, added fluid.....no more alarm.

Thank you! Yes it actually tends to get hot at that connector. Trying to determine where to get a repair part for that connector . It is 1 pin inside the 4 pin plug. Also looking into a circuit board (not available) and a replacement for the light (not available). They are apparently out of production. Maybe another assy is available to replace the lamp. It seems the lamp has just stopped working. The other lights on the brown wire feed still work.

Kitchen light above the sink, mounted to under side of the cabinet. does not seem to have power. the fuse #19 is not blown the overhead 4 bulb lamp is working, however the brown wire is getting hot at the fuse panel. I replaced the switch to the 4 bulb overhead light as the wires show signs of heat and it is an old switch, no change. Trying to determine if the lamp assembly may be the problem. The lamp has a red and a white wire going to it, the switch on the lamp is wired with the red. Not sure that it is the cause of the hot brown wire though. Fuse 19 and the brown wire are identified to be for that location. any suggestions are appreciated . Also have a problem trying to identify the lamp assy.

jondel1234@yahoo.com this is the email address that allowed me to contact him. Then we spoke on the phone.

no I did not require a new motor, My symptoms were the reel did not retract, but you could hear the motor running. Also the switch was not operating smoothly but only needed a little lube. Getting the assembly out was hard, getting it back in was really hard. Shoreline Reel model RV5036, that was my model number. There is one person that makes a repair kit for the reel. I was thrilled to find him as the price of a new one is pretty expensive and much more intensive to completely replace.

My reel is through the closet drawer area and very difficult to gain access, and to work on is quite difficult as well. I had to replace the gears. You might prep for that while in there.

factoryparts@veurinksrv.com The handle on my coach had cracked. They have the whole handle with lighting, but not sure if you can just get the light. I think you can get the light kit separately. They have been a great source for Monaco parts.

Mine lights up when I turn on the step and entry light switch, guess they suspect it only needs to be on in the dark. Had to replace it due to a crack. Replacement is not always an exact fit . do not like drilling any new holes. My light is in the top be sure to seal it. It is wired to the entry lamp wiring./ simple job. Mine reads MONACO.

late thanks, i replaced and it helps about 75%

Here is what my board looked like, I believe it was due to a power surge while using ac with gen start up.

Additionally, I have experienced GFI causing loss of power to specific areas another place to consider. That 20 amp supply may have caused new problems. I would smell test the 50 amp circuit board area to be sure you didn't smoke something.

I had a similar experience and found one of the circuit breakers on the side of my inverter had popped out. Not easy to see, has a little white line on it and it is mounted in the space behind the storage area with a sliding black plastic door. Mine is mounted opposite the water heater and fresh water pump. ( odd to me! ) The breakers do handle left side and rt side. Good luck, it can be mysterious,,

2006 Monaco Camelot, have developed a thump type sound when closing front door. I am trying to locate information about the door hinges and attachment. The noise usually happens at the closing last 2 inches of movement and you can feel the vibration when you hear the thump.

getting the daily every 30 min, like clockwork,,,,🙂

My water pump is in the lower bay behind the water heater. Oddly the power inverter is also in that compartment about a foot away from the pump. ( Gotta have it someplace) I also have a System Heat feature. it does not come on until it gets below 38-40, but it is in the bay of water and sewer. Seems to have a small electric heater. Could be the temps dipped and I was not aware but I watch for that when in cold weather. Thanks for the input.

Actually just a word of caution when traveling and in an area that has a hard freeze. The onboard water pump needs to be of concern. I was in Utah and the pump seemed fine, I had a heated hose for supply but really cold overnight temps caused the pump to freeze and I did not know it. I noticed slight amount of dripping thinking it may be from the fridge, later to find the pump developed a crack. It began to leak more once I had the water supply hose attached.

ISL engine have recently had tach bouncing around, checked some grounds under the front area where the generator is located.. have not yet found a solution. Any suggestions may be helpful. So far, still running okay just bounces around erratically