tmw188

Car brake lights work like they should.  The Duo worked great with the gasser mh and has a sensitivity adjustment on the pedal cylinder controller. I’ll hopefully get some test performed today. Yes that is why Etrailer asked about the exhaust brake and whether my brake lights came on when the PacBrake was activated. I’ve been towing for almost three yrs with it but with the larger mh it’s hard to feel the towed brakes come on, you have to look in the rear camera to verify by looking at the LED’s lighting up on the rear view mirror, which was working but now has stop displaying. The safety break away does work nicely but too not displaying the LED’s. I’ll look for a fuse after looking for a signal. Unfortunately I’ll probably need to change it out. Also I would recommend everyone checking their break away regularly or pre departure, it’s easy just pull it out. I had to replace mine 3yrs ago after checking it. Weather snow and salt will get to them over time.

3 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Ours do not, and I like it that way. I don't want following drivers to think I am dragging my brakes all the way down a grade. 🙂 

 

I’m with you on that. 

Thanks for catching that Richard it should have read when the PAC Brake is on. I had two different questions I’m trying to get answers to, but really didn’t want them blended together. 
1) When the PacBrake is engaged, does the brake lights come on, I was told some do, some don’t and maybe. So I’m going to call it answered. 
The other question I needed an answer to was specific to my current braking system and was not intended to be answered on this thread, but inquiring minds want to know now. I have a Demco Stay N Play Duo sister to the Air Force One. My previous mh was a gasser and that’s what it was designed for but not designed for air brake systems especially coaches with exhaust brakes or Jake brakes because it works with a decelerometer which could be activated by an exhaust brake and burn up the brakes while decending a grade. I’ll  have my passenger confirm that. I was told originally by Etrailer that it would work on the air brake coach when I bought the Windsor some 3yrs ago.  I called Etrailer today with a trouble shooting question on something else since they installed it some 5 yrs ago. During the conversation the topic of the exhaust brake came up and that’s where we are now. I’ll know more hopefully tomorrow. I’ll probably need to switch the braking system. So that’s it. 

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Todd, mine does on my previous 02 Windsor. However, I am sure you realize by now that doesn't mean that EVERY 02 Windsor was wired the same. The only way to be sure is to have someone follow you to observe whether they do or not.

Yep, I’m going to do that tomorrow, and he is going to sit in the car to monitor if the brake is being applied on the car when and if the brake lights come on.                                   My current braking system in the car is not tied into the air on the coach so this is why I want to see if the deceleration is bringing on the brake. Not part of this thread so I thought I would just clarify it here with this edit. 

2002 Windsor, does anyone know with certainty if the brake lights come on when the PacBrake is activated? 

Well I appreciate that, not really looking for anything currently but have always had issues with their website. Now it appears they’ve made changes?

Cummins Quickserve has always been a MAJOR PITA for me. Trying to login and or reset my password which worked now still can’t get in. I have fought this site for yrs. After :45 I’m done, throwing in the white flag. 

He needs to go talk to Harvest Host for maybe some guidance. Maybe attend a Council Meeting with pictures of his property. I would fight it. 

Yep it’s the availability along the highway and the speed of filling as you said. I guess too the program fee is still a no brainer the more gallons you fill. I don’t think Mudflap has truck stops in there program but could be wrong.

Chris that’s great and we will miss you at the Gatherings on the professional level but maybe you’ll come on a social level instead. Enjoy your new stress free retirement and thank you for your hard work in keeping Talin up and running and providing a much needed service.

Todd White

On 5/8/2024 at 4:14 PM, Paul J A said:

https://suncoastdesigners.com/ may have some input for you.

I’ve used Suncoast in Hudson some 5-6 yrs ago on another mh with fogging. They did a great job. I pulled the blinds and valance down to make their job easier. I was very pleased.

Maybe Rainx might keep them fro sticking so bad

Mine is a 8D single BAB( big a$! battery)

Great option Dave. I filed down my bump on the OE slightly because it seemed to be a little too much. 

Call FASS 

Easy to discover leaks with a positive pressure pump running. Another thing you can do with the FASS is jumper the relay that comes with it and without the key on you can periodically run the pump (polish) the fuel while stored. The guy at FASS told me how to do it with a paper clip. 

4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I removed mine and was able to repair by putting the rivet on a sledge hammer and then using another large hammer and flatten the rivet.  I also took the little tab that catches the door and bend it up a little, which added some friction to the scissor.  Did that ~6 years ago and still working fine.

Well I guess I wasn’t replying to the rivet in question sorry for any confusion. I was referring to the rivets that hold the hinge to the top of the door. 

Just to slip this in incase it was missed, I know I didn’t look until now. If you zoom in on the BIRD never mind my finger, that p/n is actually the same as what is still in place. Never mind my finger. 

3/16”x3/8 or 1/2” long is what I used. Buy a large rivet gun from AMZ or Harbor Freight. Don’t use alum they won’t pull down tight enough.  BE SURE TO PULL IT DOWN SQUARELY not on an angle. You don’t need SS rivets steel is fine but don’t use alum. You may need to knock down the pulling pin after it’s set with a file. 

FWIW I just looked a Richard’s bio to verify and surprised he hasn’t chimed in, but his previous Windsor was a 2002 not ‘04. 

Good for you, welcome to a never ending job. 😁

Thank you Tom, but all the work was on your end creating a spread sheet and guiding me along the way to perform the testing and getting the Data you needed which took you down a few forks in the rd. to a conclusion. 

That’s an extremely long run and longer than any run in a typical house. If you look on the tag for the amps you can get online and look for a voltage drop chart like this. IMO the cost of the wire would be expensive and one dehumidifier may not be enough and then you have the electric bill for that running a lot. A few Damp Rids should do the job. 

Thanks Mark for getting those pics posted of your setup before you changed things, it will help Tom decipher whether my setup has been modified and how it works. I have some readings I need to take for Tom to help with his homework behind the scenes.

I’m in the middle of cleaning up my house battery tray so I can reinstall the batteries. I will confirm charging is active while motor is running and on gen.