Bill R
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Posts posted by Bill R
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@dl_racing427 David, if it stays always at zero I would suspect either a bad indicator or a leaky or plugged indicator line. These devices go bad over time.
On my coach, after driving and reaching boost pressures of 25psi plus, the indicator will show around 3-5 inches H2O for a new filter. I will always reset the indicator back to zero after each trip. At least this is my experience.
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18 hours ago, Dr4Film said:
If people's air filter is getting wet or saturated with water from rain, my guess is that the drain holes to allow any rain water to drain out of the air inlet system are clogged. OR, the location of the air inlet hose from the air intake cavity to the engine has been placed in the wrong area (too low) allowing water to enter the air filter.
Those type of air filters are NOT designed to get wet.
If they are getting wet then that condition needs to be corrected.
The air filter on my previous Windsor was always bone dry.
I believe my filter became damp, not soaked, from all the mist kicked up from hundreds of big rigs that passed me up during a 3 hour downpour. There was no collected water in the intake pipe and the drain is clear at the intake grille. But the filter was damp. Since my filter flow is in to out and there was no screen support, I think that was a heavy factor to the failure.
Brief article here from Donaldson filters on moisture getting to filters. https://www.donaldson.com/en-jp/engine/filters/technical-articles/getting-water-in-your-air-intake-system/
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11 hours ago, Ivan K said:
Couple of weeks ago I helped a friend who got stuck on the road in heavy rain. A lot of black smoke when he tried to move. It was an ISL with rubber elbow on turbo intake and it was collapsing. Pulled the newish filter and it was dripping soaked. Maybe something to check.
I had the exact same thing happen to me with that cobra boot about 2 years ago. Turned out that in a rain storm the filter became damp and collapsed. The filter did not have the mesh wire structure on it either. Also the filter was smaller than the manual specified size. I upsized the filter to spec and made sure it had the wire mesh support. Been through many rain storms since and filter minder shows good. Here is that post for reference.
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@robertmrankin6612 Bob - were you measuring your fan speed at each of the voltage outputs? Or was it even connected to the pintle control valve? I am asking because on my control valve, when voltage gets down to 7V the fan is already WAO. So there would be no need to get a MC for a lower voltage. But your operation may be slightly different. The only way to find out is to hook it up to the control valve at 7V.
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3 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:
@Bill R not related to your water leak, but I'm curious what the box is in the foreground? Looks like electrical fuses/circuit breakers or disconnect?
Bill - Good catch on noticing that. Short Answer - It is a 20A sub-panel that was installed when the PO replaced the combo W/D with a separate W/D. That subpanel is providing power to the dryer.
Long Answer - shortly after I bought the coach, we were staying for several days at a campsite hooked up to 50A shore power. On occasions the pedestal 50A breaker kept tripping. I couldn't figure out why the pedestal breaker was tripping but not the coach 50A breaker. The campsite folks changed the pedestal breaker with a new one, but it happened again. At this time, since I was a fairly new Class A coach owner I just decided I would manage better the load on the coach. AC's, Dryer, HW Heater, Microwave, etc. A few month's later I noticed that subpanel box. Not knowing what it was for I traced the wires going in and out of the panel. What I discovered was that the panel was going to the Dryer and was being supplied directly from the ATS. Light bulb went off for me realizing this was bypassing the coach's panel as well as the EMS. I ended up removing the supply from the ATS and wiring into the 120V Refrigerator breaker that was no longer being used since the coach has the residential fridge now which is supplied by the inverter. No problems since.
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@jacwjames Jim - thanks for pointing out that I did not come back to this post with the solution.
My solution was to remove the entire section of the floor and replaced with 3/4 inch plywood and just fastened it down to the angle Iron supports with lots of silicone. And spray painted the underside with Flexseal about two or three coats. And painted the inside with oil base white two or three coats. Siliconed around on the inside corners and it has been holding really well. Here is a pic of the repair.
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On 4/13/2024 at 12:30 PM, robertmrankin6612 said:
OK guys, looking at this again, I'm thinking that this is a 2 speed fan option, not a variable fan speed like OEM (IF OEM is variable).
It seems to me that using the pwm motor controller sets the minimum speed, but the thermo valve set the max speed.
I was hoping the pwm motor controller would output variable voltage with a variable voltage input, but I don't think it does. Also, the controller cited above has a minimum input voltage of 7 volts. So even if the controller could output variable voltage with variable input voltage, it would only do so down to 7 volts input, and I think it takes zero volts to run the fan wide open. Maybe when the input voltage drops below the specified 7 volts the controller shuts down and the output voltage goes to zero anyway.
Does my thinking sound correct?
Thanks, Bob
Bob - if your input to the PWM Motor Controller is a constant 12V signal then yes, in a sense it becomes a two speed control. However, as the RPM's increase on the engine, the fan will speed up along with the RPM's. So it is a pseudo two speed with some variable speed based on the engine RPM. This is why I have the ECM input going to the PWM Motor Controller. The operation then becomes a variable voltage from the ECM based on Air Intake Temp, and Engine Temp to the ECM.
On 4/14/2024 at 4:21 PM, Malewis11 said:Hi All
First I can report that after cleaning the connector contacts and replacing the Hirschmann plug my fan ran a lot slower at startup. Not sure of the speed but it wasn’t roaring like usual. We will have to see if it speeds up at high temps but had to cancel my short trip because of an issue with my brand new tow bar.
Im not an electrical engineer but my understanding of the PWM is that it doesn’t modulate the outgoing voltage but switches the power on and off known as the duty cycle. It lowers the average voltage thereby reducing motor speed. 12 volts at 50% duty cycle would mimic 6 volts. It stands to reason that if the supply voltage dropped to 8 volts the output would be mimic 4 volts if the PWM setting didn’t change although I not sure if it’s linear.You can measure the output voltage but it has to be tested under load otherwise you will not see the voltage drop. This is based on motors so how valves like ours react may be different but based on other’s experience it obviously has some effect. Since I didn’t install the PWM I’m planing on setting up an experiment to vary voltage and load to see what happens. I’ll report any thing I learn.
Mark L
Mark - You have the basics down correctly. Using a VOM and Tachometer, you can track the voltage (in and out) of the Motor Controller and the resulting fan speed operation. These are the tools I used to fine tune the Motor Controller for my coach. Let us know how it turns out.
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On 4/8/2024 at 11:23 AM, robertmrankin6612 said:
This question is directed to Bill R., and anyone else that would like to respond.
I HOPE I am not jinxing myself with this post as the ISL in my 05 Dynasty has been happy for 87,000 miles, BUT, since the SD FDC is a known problem, I thought I'd ask the question.
Is the thermal switch even necessary?
Bob - you have the correct understanding. The ECM will cause the fan to go wide open as the temperature increases. The responsiveness of the ECM however I am not sure of. The Thermal Switch to me is just an operational preference that when coolant gets to 205F the fan will go wide open and keep the temp from climbing any higher.
Let us know what you end up doing.
22 hours ago, Malewis11 said:I picked up a new one for a few bucks and replaced it. I then verified that I had 12 volt power on both the 12v supply to the SD and from the ECM to the SD. I also now have 12v getting to the solenoid so my SD may be working properly now. Haven’t run the engine to confirm but will this weekend. I plan to make a harness so I can easily switch to the motor controller if I need to while hoping that the valve is good. I haven’t seen many reports of the valves failing, it’s usually the electronics.
Mark - let us know if this fixed the problem. You may have 12V to the valve, but the question will be does that voltage drop as the engine warms up showing that the control board is working. I hope it does work. That is a good find. I was concerned that my issue but have been the connector as well, but I confirmed by bypassing the connector that it was not.
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10 hours ago, Capt. Tango said:
The Blizzard has 4 bolts that do not align with the existing Penguin bolt pattern and is several inches taller. Make sure to get both the CCC-2 controller and thermostat, some people try to convert the older electrics, but my installer never got it to work correctly. Neither unit comes with a control board, but some folks claim they do. Check ahead of time to make sure.
Eric - can you expound a little more about "Neither unit comes with a control board"? The specs for the Blizzard NXT say that the unit has a built in control board that works only with the CCC-2. Are you referring to the conversion board needed to work with the older 5 button T-Stat.
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39 minutes ago, Malewis11 said:
Hi All,
I certainly learned a lot from this thread and I’m hopping it will help me correct my fan issue. @Bill R I like that solution. Could you enlighten me on the installation and location of the thermal valve on our Coach? Also, with two years of testing under your belt is there a specific DC motor controller you would recommend? I think I saw somewhere else you said around 9 volts gave you the desired 600 RPM at cold startup, correct?
Mark - my coach came with a water temp sensor that was not being used because it was faulty. It is a redundant sensor so I just decided to use that port for the thermal switch. I have attached a pic that shows the old temp sensor located on top just above the exhaust manifold.
Here is a link of the motor controller I have been using. I don't exactly recall the voltage to set for cold startup but I do think it is around 8.5V to 9V coming out of the MC to the pintle valve controller. You can buy a laser tachometer and measure your fan speed to be more precise. The initial voltage is really only important on cold starts to make sure you have some cooling to use dash A/C. Once the engine starts to warm up the ECM will start to take over and adjust the speed of the fan through the MC. I ran the wires in a wire loom to the rear run bay where I mounted the MC.
I have been running this setup for 2 years now and have been very pleased with the operation. Hope this helps.
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5 hours ago, planodp said:
Bill it's 630515.331C Penguin
PROD # 991761219
Duey - I sent you a PM
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4 hours ago, planodp said:
Thanks Ben, just order 2 units. Look like you Ivan K and I are all neighbors. I now live in Trenton which is 20 miles east of Messila on SH121.
Duey - What are your current units you are replacing?
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1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:
That sounds like a really good price Bill!
Was that for heat pumps, or just AC?
Ben - 15K Heat pump. Yes I couldn't believe it. Included shipping to my house. I have a very old DuoTherm that I figure I might as well just go ahead and replace at that price. Walmart still has this price for the Black cover. The sale I got was for the white cover which always seems to be more expensive. I guess supply vs demand.
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Snowflakes!
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I purchased the Blizzard NXT last fall for the same reason, higher CFM. They are only a couple inches taller, but it allows for larger condensing and evaporator coils, which in turn allows for higher CFM. Plus Wal-Mart had them on sale for $1,000. I haven't installed it yet, planning to do so this Spring. If I recall, my research showed that you do not need to make any modifications when replacing a Penguin II. If you get the NXT I'll be interested to find out how it goes.
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I installed a pressure gauge on my ping tank so I could monitor the compressor, switch, and tank operation. Knowing the pressure of the tank will help you trouble shoot the issue. As mentioned above, it is important to drain this tank at least monthly, or more often if it is coming on frequently.
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Thanks for the update Jim. Changing the belt on my 8KW is on my to do list. Fortunately I have a slide out too and based on your experience I am counting on it not be too laborious. With regards to the spark arrestor, I remove it every oil change. Easy to do and as you found out it can collect a lot of soot. Also, important to turn on generator to blow out any excess before reinstalling.
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I sample every two years. Not only does this give you the current condition of the coolant, but a trend over time to determine when it is getting close to do a coolant change. JG Lubricants or Blackstone Labs are commonly used.
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Mike - they still look really good, shine up the rubber and they'll look even better.
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On 10/8/2023 at 9:44 AM, olywrestle said:
In my 06 ambassador I found a port in the front electrical bay and pulled trans temp from it with my BlueFire. The one under the dash would not.
@olywrestle sent you a PM regarding your comments.
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I realize I should have provided a little more detail. This is the DuoTherm Penguin II 13,500 BTU Heat Pump model 651815. I know I can buy this control board online but was hoping someone had recently changed theirs out and just had the old unit to discard. Anyway, giving it a try. Part number I was given by Dometic was 3312022.000.
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This Spring I will be changing out the old REAR DuoTherm A/C with a new Penguin II. My FRONT A/C unit was installed by PO and is a Penguin II, but it has the control board conversion so it can work in conjunction with the REAR DuoTherm and 5 button Thermostat. After I install the new Penguin II, I will be upgrading to the MicroAir Thermostat that works with the Penguin II units.
I will need to replace the FRONT A/C conversion board. So I am in search of anyone who might have a spare Penguin II control board they do not need or are willing to sell?
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I am following. I have wondered the same thing why there are no rain gutters on our coach. Our fifth wheel had them. Has anyone installed these rain gutters? Or if not, why not?
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Yes I did when I put it back on. It didn’t change the slight pull. You should try still. You never know.
2006 Diplomat mystery power connector - Entertainment Center - Stumped
in General Motorhome Discussion
Posted
I agree with @cbr046 for my rig that looks exactly like the 12v supply to the multi selector unit. Look on the back of yours to see if you already have that. For my selector it provides the 12v for the OTA antenna.