Bill R
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Posts posted by Bill R
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2 hours ago, RNMCBR said:
Todd,
No, sorry I did not think of taking a picture of me using it. I’ll try to explain better below.
The drive shaft slip joint has a grease weep hole in the end, inside the yoke that holds the u-joint that is attached to the transmission output shaft. If the slip joint spline is caked up with old grease, fresh grease will squirt out this hole before enough pressure can build to force it into the spline and past the slip joint seal. I was never able to stop the grease from squirting out with just my finger. The space between the end of the slip joint shaft and the u-joint is narrow, about wide enough to get your finger in there. This tool will slip into this space with the cone nut sticking into the weep hole and the flat bar bearing against the u-joint, at the center of the u-joint cross. Then by unscrewing the cone nut, I am able to force the cone point into the weep hole tight enough to seal it from grease squirting out. This allows pressure to build enough to force grease into the splined part of the shaft. I hope this paints you a picture of how the tool works.
Toy
Roy - great solution. So when you were able to seal the weep hole with this tool, were you able to purge out the old grease out the seal on the other end?
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On 11/30/2023 at 7:04 PM, Tom Cherry said:
Our "Mr. Guru of EVERTHING" told me. I was on the road and really poured the grease to the "Slip Yoke" fitting. It DOES take a lot. BUT, after you get tired or change to a new cartridge, and the grease comes out of the pin hole or vent....follow the instructions here. NOW, was that critical? Probably NOT. But, it is ONE of those things that we learn....and most, me included, always thought "pumping grease" was so easy. Like changing oil....especially when you have your car on a rack....
I chuckle as I was friends with a very good and learned stockbroker and we socialized and such. His dad was the first broker in the small town. He became a noted leader in the community. One night, after a few drinks, I asked him....How did you get into being a stock broker? He graduated from a local university that is the ARCH rival of mine and is well known for having graduate courses in "Contemplating and Analyzing Navel 'button' Lint" or a PhD program in Basket Weaving....in order to fulfill one's self.
His dad and a buddy's dad leased an Esso Service Station and he and his buddy ran it. This was back when you went there for oil changes and MUST DO AT EVERY OIL CHANGE....LUBE JOB. They were NOT well versed in mechanics or automotive skills....they DID expect a Monkey Wrench to have grips that would fit the hand of a Primate.
They changed the oil on a customer's Caddy. He didn't get too far....somehow, they got preoccupied...and one screwed in the oil plug and the other was supposed to tighten it....and guess what...? The second one forgot. The engine BLEW...big time. Their dads bailed them out and closed the Esso service station. Then he used his "Marketing and Financial" acumen and got into "investing". The man was NOT exactly "Mr. Good Wrench".
So, I often thing....this is SO SIMPLE....but then the little trick or procedure for the slip joint totally eluded me. BUT, I never wrote a thesis on the lint in my navel....|
LOL....TRUE STORY....Hope this helps....
Bulletin DA032003 Greasing Of Universal Joints & Slip Yokes.pdf 49 kB · 79 downloads
Well I decided today to lube the slip joint as recommended. After about 10 pumps the lube started coming out the weep hole. Holding my finger over the hole, and with one hand to pump and steady the grease gun, and after about 2-3 pumps the pressure built up and lube would squirt out around my finger under pressure. Tried this about 5 times hoping I would see some lube come out by the seal, but nothing. Any thoughts on what to do?
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I'm saddened by this, as Ray was always so gracious with his time. I'd bug him with PM's and his standard response was, "Bill, I doubt you could bother me if you wanted to."
Just the kind of man he was. Now he is a "New" man, but will still be missed.
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48 minutes ago, Newcsn said:
In the last couple weeks our 2006 Dynasty is occasionally experiencing a terrible sewer smell only when flushing the toilet - have never experienced it previously. I know there are air admittance vents under each sink. Do these have anything to do w/ properly venting the black tank or are they all for the grey tank? We have a black tank rinse feature & use it every time we dump - and also add the orange Camco black tank odor pouches.
Thank you!
The air admittance under sink vent (Studor Vents) do not have anything to do with the black tank roof vent. Separate systems. If the under sink vents are not sealing, when you flush the toilet, especially if you have the bowl filled with additional water in it, I believe you can create the slightest amount of negative pressure in the toilet room that allows some of the grey tank gases into the room through the sticking Studor vent. And you will smell it as the grey tank is smelly as well. Maybe, maybe not, but I had this problem and replaced the Studor vent, which I found was sticking, and it eliminated the smelly gasses after I flushed. So try replacing the Studor vent and see what happens. That will answer the question. Otherwise, others have made some really good suggestions as well.
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1 hour ago, Steve P said:
Like charging the batteries on an electric golf cart? Or maybe even an EV (car)?
I may be missing something here, but, the 120V outlets that are inverted power also will be pass through power when on shore or generator power. So wouldn't those still suffice when on shore or generator power? Or is there some other reason why you want only an 120V outlet that is only supplied by shore or generator?
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3 hours ago, Joint Venture said:
My goal is to be able to supply power to a battery charger when my generator runs or on shore power.
Just curious why you are wanting to do this?
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@MJ.STIGER I don't have Starlink, but I didn't realize it could be used "in-motion". That is good to know. Looking forward to how your project turns out and how the "in-motion" performs.
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7 hours ago, Martinvz said:
I am reacting to Tom’s earlier posts re the use of the wire nuts.
Does anyone have experience with using the WAGO style wire connectors in a coach as replacement of the wire nuts?I use WAGO connectors for 12 gauge or smaller stranded wire connections or a stranded wire and solid copper wire connection. Stranded wires may not give a good connection when using wire nuts. If it is only solid copper wires I have no problem using a wire nut. Whether wire nut or WAGO connection I will wrap the connection in electrical tape. Again, only for 12 gauge or smaller wire.
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21 hours ago, T. Argy said:
PM me ThomArgy at AOL
Will do. Thanks for the info.
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@Georgia Mike Mike I thought you determined from reading your manual (I read the same thing too in your manual) that for your coach the ATC light stays on continuously with key on. If you hit the ATC momentary switch the light should slowly flash. Does it do that? If so the light is doing exactly as your manual explains. If you believe the light should be off then the manual is wrong.
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They sell repair tape or the sheeting itself online. Just google underbelly RV.
When I replaced a section of rotted particle board in one of the basement compartments, I put in pressure treated plywood and then sprayed several heavy coats of Flex Seal on the underbelly section of the plywood. Has been holding up extremely well. This was only about a 2'x2' section in between metal supports.
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@Georgia Mike There is no filter in mine. It is just open with some baffles. It is easy to open up and find out. The small line at the lower left of the pic is a drain line that goes back to the crankcase with a check valve in line. The larger line at the bottom is the crankcase blowby tube that OEM installed goes down to in between the starter and engine. My 2006 400 ISL was there and there was quite a bit of oil build up. I rerouted it to a location away from the engine with a catch can.
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@gdroberson Gary - Lot's of previous discussion on this topic. As a suggestion, go to the search bar and put in "flat tow". Make sure to put the words in parenthesis as I have typed them. And then select from the drop down arrow Topics. This will bring up many threads about flat towing. Set ups, braking, etc. Hope this helps.
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6 hours ago, Gweedo said:
Or do you have an internet in your rig that streams.
Gweedo - We have internet in the coach via T-Mobile Home Internet Gateway Box, $40/mo. It stays with the coach at all times so I have access to all WiFi components anytime and anywhere. Many other internet options out there and lots of YouTube videos on them.
If you boondock a lot in remote places, streaming may not be the route to go. If you do not have Smart TV's, you can get an Amazon Firestick, AppleTV Stick, ROKU Stick, any of these with an HDMI connection will allow you to stream the internet to your TV.
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@Scotty Hutto Scotty I am curious, is this what you had and you upgraded? If so, what did you upgrade to?
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Great job @KarenG Looks wonderful! Can you share a link of the plastic single edge blade scarper you used? And how much of the De Solv-it did you end up using? Looking to make this a summer project for me.
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Update to this post. Moderators - Feel free to change the title of this thread, or if you would like I could start a new thread.
Great sale on ONAN products including AGS, 50% off till tomorrow if you are interested. Promocode is YEAREND50
Anyway, I have decided to change my approach. After thinking more of what I personally want for functionality is not an Automatic Generator Start, but rather a Remote Generator Start over WiFi. And neither Magnum or Onan (only Bluetooth) currently offer this option.
I have found doing some research that there is a product that can be used as a remote start for the generator with some mods by adding a relay timer and then tying into the existing generator start wires that were used by the Magnum AGS. It is the Victron Cerbo GX. This product has other remote options I am interested in potentially adding. Such as monitoring remotely your electrical system, batteries, solar, temps and other functions. It can also be used in conjunction with your existing AGS. Here is a thread on this. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/generator-start-and-stop-via-web-cellphone-app-577894.html
Is anyone using the Cerbo GX? What is your experience? Any thoughts on going this route.
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4 minutes ago, John C said:
Bill,
That is my old gas coach, 2007 Thor WindSport, I used the diagram installed 35' steel channel on top of the roof with 1/2" screw penetrated the aluminum tube. then mounted solar panels on top of the channels. Very secure.
John - Got it, maybe someone else can help. I haven't seen this but I am sure it exists. Interested as well in finding out. Hopefully someone else with experience will have some insight.
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@John C Sorry John I can not help with your question. Maybe someone else can. Can you tell us where you got the drawing you attached and do you know the year, model, make of the coach for the attachment?
Thanks.
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OK, Splice is made and power to slide out outlets from the inverter now all good! I really liked using the WAGO Lever connectors. See pic below. Made it clean and secure when combining solid and stranded copper wires.
I decided not to, maybe to some folks disagreement, install a JB. Just no real place for it, very tight, and I do not think it is necessary. Wrapped each connector with electrical tape. then wrapped all three connectors together securely with electrical tape into one bundle, and tie wrapped to other bundles. All very nice and clean.
Now I am pondering if I want to disconnect the wire from the inverter going to the microwave and connect it to the wire coming from the 120V panel 20A breaker that was going to the non inverted outlets of the slide out. These are all in the same area and easily could be done. Just not sure if I am ready to lose the function of the microwave on battery power. Although I never do use it that way. And changing it would keep it from happening when DW forgets when we are not on shore power.
Have I talked myself into yet?
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LOL - I think ATC Event is a Monaco term. Here is another section from the manual. ATC Event = ECU senses a speed differential in drive wheels.
"If a speed differential occurs in the drive wheel, the ECU enters Automatic Traction Control mode. During an ATC event, the ECU will automatically react to optimize traction and safety if the motorhome encounters a slippery road surface. Engine torque is normally reduced to limit drive wheel slip."
I think I got it now, at least for the moment. 🙂
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@96 EVO Ben - perhaps I have misapplied the terminology but not the purpose and function. Can you explain further so I can understand better? Below is what the manual says. Are you saying that if the switch is applied the ATC is completely off or just reduced? I really am trying to understand better what I think I understand. If that make sense.
"ATC Switch: Activating the ATC switch reduces ECU control over engine torque. Momentarily pressing the ATC switch allows the ECU to increase the amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel in an ATC event. The amount of engine torque applied to the drive wheel varies with the amount of drive wheel slip versus road speed. In an ATC event, the ECU remains active regardless of road speed or switch position. The indicator light flashes slowly when the ATC switch is activated."
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Was a little confused about the ATC light until I looked at @Georgia Mike manual versus my manual. We have different model coaches but the same year.
It turns out that for my model the ATC dash light will go out a few seconds after engine start and will flash quickly only during an "ATC event". However, in Mike's manual it says the light will be steady on and will flash quickly during an "ATC event". Snowflakes!!
A misnomer I had was that the ATC was only active if I had the switch on. But that is not the case, the ATC is always active, and if you are in a situation like icy conditions and you have drive wheel slippage "ATC Event" and flashing ATC light, you can engage the switch to prevent further slippage. Once you are out of these conditions you should turn the switch off.
@96 EVO What I read in my and Mike's manual is you are not able to turn the ATC off on our coaches.
Grab Handle-Step Lights Not Working-Electrical Diagrams 101
in Electrical Systems
Posted
If you remove the grab bar you will know for sure. There will be a wire going to a bulb in one of the mounts. On my coach there is a switch that says "step light" that lights both the grab bar and stepwell lights.