BigNick

Thank you, mine bounces just a bit, I'll mark it, exercise the pot and call it good.

I wonder if the Tach has a vari pot as well?

Oh Great, the filter minder is worthless then...

Vacuum Gauge

I don't have a picture but I replaced with a beautiful loveseat that goes out into a full, its called a Lambert Harrison Hidabed 72" w/ Air Coil (Air Dream Mattress), Fold Down Center, Ultra Leather and coloration almost exact. Not cheap $2465 (delivered to the door) and took a few months to deliver but entirely worth is to get rid of the crappy jack knife that was in there. I have no idea why Monaco even put those things in there, only a 6yo could possibly sleep on it. Like others have said, because the slide is higher I made a couple furniture grade pieces of wood to fit under the lower half support bars when the bed is out to level it up. I got it from a place called Dave & LJs RV Interior Design. Highly recommended, it was a good experience and exactly what I wanted. https://daveandljs.com/

You best bet is to call Cummings tech and make sure, on your generator data tag is a "spec #" that's the number he wanted to verify compatibility. Unfortunately mine is a Spec A so it is not.. Nice clean install you have, looks great!! I was a hot and bothered with wireless Cummings unit with so many features, but that dream is shattered so I'm back to the Xantrex. The coach was retrofitted n it's past with a 3012 with an scp. So, I'm thinking thats the Xantrex unit is simplest way.

It may not be compatible with some of the older units, the compatibility chart is in the Operator Manual that you posted.

I had hoped the receptacle in the head was inverted, it is not. The next nearest receptacle is the one in the basement down below. I plugged the refrigerator into it and it runs just fine including the compressor. I just have to figure out how to get the wire up through the false ceiling in the wet bay into the refrigerator bay.

I found the EC-30W but as I suspected, the control head long gone

I was reading something today about holding the stop switch to stop for a few seconds to prime it after filter change.

Understood. I'll bring the coach into the driveway tomorrow to do a service on the generator. Now that I'm a bit educated, I know what to look for. I'm pretty sure the master control isn't anywhere to be found., but I'll look in a couple non conspicuous places just to make sure. I'll get the serial and model number off the gen and call Cummins Monday to see if the new wireless system can be retrofitted. Thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions. The more and more I use the coach I can see a huge benefit to AGS.

Thank you Doc for that answer. I should find the wired receiver on the firewall wired to the genset via a Y cable. The actual control is a wireless unit? And could be long gone. Edit: I see Cummins sells a wireless unit. https://shop.cummins.com/CSSNAStore/s/product/a2w4N000003sSghQAE/onan-ecags-diesel-application-kit-a065u740

Ok, I still need to look around the RV paying close attention around the inverter and in the rear closet. Is there anywhere where this thing could be? As I went through my literature I found this manual. Is the controller hard wired or does it plug in? I'm thinking I have a plug somewhere with no controller attached if it simply plugs in?

I'm fairly sure there's no inverter power there, I will check with a meter before anything. If not, then I will plug in the fridge using an extension cord from the inverter receptacle in the head and verify the fridge will run from it. If so, I will drop the wire off that bathroom receptacle , (which I will verify has inverter power and is literally on the other side of the wall from the fridge). When I drop the wire off the GFI receptacle in the head, I'll pull a piece 12/3 down so I can hook the GFI back up and hook one of the outlets in the duplex receptacle for the fridge to the dropped wire, that way I'll have one receptacle inverter powered, the head receptacle will still be GFI and inverter powered as well.

Well, I think I found the answer to my question. I have a book of schematics, I guess that receptacle doesn't get power from the inverter CB box. The only thing I can think of to correct the situation is to run a set of wires from the CB panel up to the refrigerator backside. I'm guessing this is like this because the original refrigerator ran off propane, I know this because the gas line is capped behind.

Thank you Ivan, pretty fancy, so basically what your doing there is bringing in any parks Wi-Fi (Not mobile data) to a router and that's it. Correct? You run and extension cord out to the router and power it. In your example one could really fancy with it and mount the antenna on some type of tripod correct?

Hi Bob, I don't have the directional tv antenna, there's a stationary omni directional up there and way to rig this to work with that?

Thank you David and everyone else for your posts. Up to this point the only testing I have done was to move the refrigerator's plug from one receptacle to the other and check to see if the light is on in the fridge while on inverter and of course, it is not. Lots of good information on this thread and I appreciate the time folks have taken to respond to my question. It seems to me the first thing I need to do is a proper test on the receptacle with a meter, easy enough. If there's power at one of the two receptacles while on inverter then its the fridge, if not, then its something up steam. Inverter, CBs, GFIs all of which are just a matter of digging in. Not to change the course of the thread but as a point of reference, lately I've been digging into the transmission Allison MH3000, as it hadn't had its 50k mile service, (changing of fluid and filters) that I know of, and the coach has 55k miles. That is now finished and I have complete confidence, which is a good thing, I can move on. I've had the coach for about 2 years and I purchased it for a retirement gig, which is in 2-5 years. I've been slowly going through the different areas/systems I've identified as problem areas since I've owned it and working them over to a point of satisfaction to me. I don't believe the coach was properly maintained or used over the course of its life. I find the more I use it, the better the systems function, i.e., it is not made for sitting around for too long.

Good Advice thank you!!

That's the one I'm eyeballing, looks like it can be wired to thermo stats as well. And a circuit going to the remote switch at the dash board to control the start/stop function and monitor run/off via the light. . Also a back up to the hour meter to detect run/off.. I guess in case the bulb burns out in the switch.. One other thing I keep reading xantrex has great tech support.

I do, it's mounted over the door. I've in that menu 100s of times, nothing there about ags... Edit: Interesting menu page from the scp manual

No sir, it's a 3012, that being the case, most likely replaced... hey.. that rhymes..

I will look around again with the brightest flashlight I have maybe I missed it, you guys have given me some good pointers, Thankyou

The spec sheet for the 3012 calls it a "true sine wave inverter" which I believe is is the same as "pure"? I actually am not completely sure which outlets are on inverter? I'm thinking I should go around and check? I'm always powered by generator or shore power but, I would like to shut the gen down down while underway for the fuel savings and save wear and tear on the genset. I have been at the back side and checked those breakers before but not recently will check them. As far as I know there is only one CB for the refrigerator, I will poke my head in there and double check.

Thank you very much for all the great inputs!! Its a great bunch of folks over here with a good deal of info, especially since it relates to our coaches specifically. I've had my coach for about 2 years and the learning curve it steep and expensive since the previous owners didn't maintain it correctly. I'm getting there a little bit at a time. The microwave/convection oven powers up on inverter. I want know how to get it powered up too. I've tried to power the refrigerator with both receptacles while in inverter, neither one will power it. THIS, so are you saying I need a small pour sine wave inverter behind the refrigerator just to power it? Good info here, I'm going to run this one down.