SteveB

Yes I did Mike. About 2 weeks ago. I put it in my shopping cart and then waited until the morning to call them -just to be sure they had it. No good they didn't have it and they told me I should not have been able to put it in the cart and that they were going to correct the web site. I guess they will eventually. Thanks for sending that link. In view of its scarcity,I think I might just weld it with a soldering iron. I think it might be PVC.

N Click any one of those links everyone of them when called so far do not have the part. Please let me know if you find one. Color doesn't mater. Thanks

I broke my Aria Clssic foot pedal. Contacted Thetford and was told they are not supplying that part any more. Called across USA to most of the dealers and no luck. Does anyone have any idea how I might fix the issue? Thetford's part number is 19838 pedal package in bone color. Thanks in advance.

I had water infiltration on the main slide out and had to remove the floor and replace it with a waterproof plywood. I don't know if this is helpful to you, but I found that on the slide outs, it is screwed in from the bottom through the plywood and up into the steel frame of the slide out walls. The rest of the flooring seems to but up against the walls. However your coach construction may be different.

I am running 50 amp service to my coach. Two evenings ago the scent of plastic melting woke me up. I was running on the AquaHot electrical element and the hydronic unit in the bedroom lost power and would not respond to the thermostat. I shut everything down and waited until dawn to see what the cause was. In the morning the first check was the fuse panel. I had been using the AC/Heat Pumps for heat and the breakers wired to the control board ends at the panel were melting the surrounding terminal connections. I was convinced I found the issue and replaced the 12AWG wire with number 8 AWG. The breaker wiring to the AH electrical element looked fine but although the panel switch light was on there was no hot water or heat. So I was convinced that the smell was from the a blown element. I read what everyone said about the element but I was still thinking it must be it. But when you think of it, wouldn't the high limit thermostat, positioned above the element if it does its job, shut down the electricity before the element overheats and ruptures? So I can see why the AquaHot techs would take the position that it wouldn't necessarily be the element. When I took mine apart the damaged item was the Zetter power relay. Everything else checked out fine. I temporally bypassed the relay to make sure, and got hot water and heat. Replacement relay is on the way. Although I now understand there is a new electromechanical retrofit kit, but this one held up for 20 years so I will give it a second chance.

Hello Lenny, You can download the repair/maintenance shop manual for your unit from AquaHot. There are also many videos on YouTube that will help. If you are skilled I would start with replacing the fuel filter. Run it until the burner has clean fuel, then replace the nozzle. I am assuming your fuel is good. In most cases I would say the nozzle is clogging. I had a problem similar to yours. I would reset it and it would do the same thing again. Eventually it stopped coming on all together. I would turn it on and tap the back of the blower unit. This would start it up and it would run for a while and then shut down. I thought that there may be a flat spot on the blower motor as when I tapped it, the motor would start. So I gathered all the parts and I rebuilt it. I have had experience maintaining Becket and Ingorsoll Rand oil fired burners. When I did the tear down, I found out that one of the bearings had seized and I assumed that was the culprit. But I was already there, I had all the parts, and the unit is from 2001 so I replaced blower motor, bearings, washers, ignition wires, fuel nozzle, gears, grommets, gaskets -everything I could replace. Runs perfect like it did before, only now everything is brand new.

My coach was not used for 4 years. I was concerned about the fuel in the tank. I used Biobor and changed all the filters. Never had any problems but just in case I always carry replacement filters. In my 10 years experience with large diesel engines; make sure your oil level and coolant and filters are fine and keep the fuel tank always filled to prevent condensation. The tires on the coach were past due but they were brand new with only 1k miles on them. No cracks or wear. I made sure that the inflation was correct and I also have TYRON bands. I am looking right now for a TPMS system for all the tires.

That's a great story Chris. Just got in touch with Bethany, this weekend sent her photos and measurements for the DF plates. I would have never known I had a problem until I sheared the small original drip edge off and got a look at the floor. Great invention and look forward to stopping water infiltration with the plates soon.

For four years I was looking for a specific coach. I knew what I wanted and had a list of items to be included and of course the Norcold was on it. I've worked with insurance companies in fire restoration and I saw a lot of beautiful coaches completely destroyed from the refrigerator. None of them were worth restoring. I just recently purchased a Monaco Dynasty and was disappointed that the Norcold was removed and a Samsung refrigerator was installed. But the more disasters that I have seen from this problem I am thankful for the change out. I can boondock quite nicely with the six solar panels on the roof and sleep soundly.

Hi Ray, I just saw your post and thank you for commenting. The voltage levels were checked and are where they should be. I ordered a 5 year rebuild kit from John Carrillo which has the bearings as you suggest and an Aqua/Hydro-Hot motor as well....although I like the idea Jim had with the emery cloth.

Well thanks Jim, my HydroHot motor is acting up. Hums pretty good until I tap it with my hand and then starts. This is good information to know before I do the teardown.

Yes Jim, you are a well published author now...;-) Thanks for the heads up on not letting too much time go by, as I have a small window on the slide out that needs attention and I thought I could just get to it when ever I had the time. I wasn't aware of the etching problem. One more item to the list.

Thanks for the link. I see another member ( Dr4Film) was looking for the same thing in 2013. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/need-to-know-hamsar-relay-model-number-183671.html I will order the one shown above if Hamsar isn't making one.

Thanks Jim, could I please have the number/marking on the ALT FAIL relay? The schematics (mine and yours) show 2 Hamsar relays and I have only one and I'm thinking it should be in the socket with the 5 wires.

Thank you all. I think that perhaps the Hamsar relay is in the wrong socket being that it has 5 blades and is currently in the socket with 4 and 4 wires to it which is perhaps the Alternator fail relay. I think it belongs in the one with 5 wires going to it. (DRL?) I'm not sure, as there is no labeling. I guess Jim I have to remove the plastic cable tubes like you did to find out their function. I don't need DRL but it is a nice function and from what I here necessary in Canada. Thanks for all your help, Steve

Thanks, I will search for a part number

Hi Everyone: I’m new to the group and I want to say thank you to all of those here that have contributed to solving problems fellow owners have. For me it has been immensely helpful and I have downloaded and printed a binder of solutions I needed. I have solved many of the coach’s issues, thus retaining my sanity through member’s experience, photos, suggestions and solutions. I purchased from fellow Monacoer,“halwoodsvt”, his 2001 Windsor. Hal kept the coach very well maintained, but there are many items that need to be addressed and the group’s archives has been great source of knowledge. So I have looked through the archives and I cannot find any comments on the second Hamsar relay which on my wiring diagram shows it as a 4 blade 6 volt relay. Which brings me to the following question. There are four relays in my FRB that are wired to relay sockets. Facing the bay there are two on the left and two on the right. There is an empty 5-wire relay socket on the right just below the Hamsar relay. The Hamsar has 5 blades and is currently plugged into the 4-wire socket. I don’t think this is correct and I cannot find any information on the 6-volt Hamsar relay called out in the wiring diagram. Any part numbers would be helpful. Thank you