Garry Donohue

It was right in the center of the cable. Frank the moderator of this forum told me all it takes is a pinhole of water intrusion and it apparently pooled in the low spot of the cable. That’s why the outside edges looked ok cause the water ran to the center and stayed there. The outer jacket of the cable was fine. That’s why I pulled my hair out trying to figure this one out. A simple fix but hard to trouble shoot.

I just saw a similar video on what your going through today. Go on YouTube and look up ( azexpert ) You have to scroll through the many videos to find the one you need. He shows how to remove the old tape and the “black stuff” that you spoke of. He is good. But takes awhile to find the right video. Take your time and wear blue gloves.

I purchased brand new Trojan batteries and they still wouldn’t charge. So I pulled out my black negative cable and as I pulled on it I heard crunching sounds from inside cable and this is what I found…the first photo as I started slicing the jacket, it didn’t look too bad but as I got to the middle..that’s the second photo

TPS???

Yes ETrailer sells a diode kit called smart diodes as they are made specifically for toads with LED bulbs which I have. They sell a charge line that goes from front bumper of toad to the toad battery. The tow bar Caries the charge line from the rear of coach to front bumper of toad. Also sold is a charge line from RV battery to rear of RV bumper to attach to toad. So you answered the question. I don’t need the RV charge line. As always thanks. I assume there will be schematics showing the various air lines in my coach. I have to cut into the supply and the metered line with “T’s” to bring air to the rear of coach for braking system. ETrailer shows how it’s done but in a non Monaco coach. I was up under the rear axle today. Looks like spaghetti up there, I don’t want to cut the wrong lines.

Thanks Steve

I have a 2007 Dynasty and just purchased a 2023 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit model. I plan to use the Air Force One Proportional air braking system. As my Jeep has electric power steering, I know I need a charge line from the RV to the Toads battery. So my question, Did Monaco wire their 2007 Dynastys with the charge wire running to the wire harness at the rear bumper? And has anyone installed this system ? E Trailer has good videos on the install of everything at the Toad. My concern is at the RV with where to cut into the air lines and where to mount the accumulater tank that comes with the system.

I get all my seals from Veurinks RV 616-281-5111. You will need to take a picture of the end profile of the seal so they can match it. Very helpful people.

Look at the emergency exit window. The whole frame swings up to allow clearance for the fridge. I put in a whirlpool side by side counter depth sold at Lowe’s.

Your front run box looks exactly like my 2007 Dynasty. I had the exact problem and it was two things. First look closely at the green circuit boards on the left half of the front run box. I’m referring to the copper ribbon circuit wiring embedded into the green material. Follow each circuit, I found a “short” that severed one of those copper ribbons. I had to replace the board (purchased at Veurinks rv supply). Also found on one of the “J” plugs that plug into the smart wheel box on the left side of the FRB, a loose connection on the female side. We stuffed the female side with a little stranded wire to make the male plug fit tighter. (Look at your wiring schematics to know which plug hole for example “J11” or “J9” etc. The schematics will show you which one controls what) those two steps fixed my low beam headlights problem. My wipers were working intermittently then failed altogether. I pulled my wheel cover, accessed the clock spring and simply rubbed with a clean towel, the part that makes the electrical connection as the wheel turns ( not sure what that part is called) kinda like fingers that rub to make the connection. After cleaning that part, all has been fine since.

Ok thanks. I think S/S too

Check to make sure the belt on the compressor is tight enough. Mine was loose and as soon as I tightened it, Dash Air worked.

3 Rivets have pulled out from a trim piece that is directly below my drivers side flush floor slide on the outside. Does anyone know if this rivets are Aluminum or Stainless Steel. The old ones are painted. See photos

this is the size to use from the phone number on the package. The Rivet gun at harbour freight was only $19.99 it’s still hard to pull but you can do it.

Yes 96 EVO was correct. The spline was fine but the stitching fell apart, thus pulling the fabric from around the spline. I slid it off, I live by the Ocean in NJ so I have a canvas/sail shop 2 minutes from my house and he restitched all four sides with thread that they use for sailboats. I hung it up in my garage today and coated it with 303 fabric protectant which was recommended at the Gathering last Winter in Florida. Waiting for it to dry then will slide it back on. Thanks to all who responded.

My ignition switch must be off for slides to work. Are all the cargo doors closed? And are all the cargo door switches working so the the system will know the doors are in fact closed?

Sounds like the battery cables are rotted within or at the connections. Just trying to move it a bit might have connected the power back on.

Try wiggling the battery cables at the batteries. Mine had rotted out within the cable. You couldn’t see any corrosion at the attachment points.

I have a 2007 Dynasty and have just been through the battery learning process. As I understand, the Diesel motor will charge the Chassis batteries first, then if the house batteries are low, the system will detect this and the “Big Boy” relay will connect both together and charge both house and Chassis. When on Generator or Shore power, the house batteries get charged then if Chassis are low, Big Boy once again connects both. Not exactly sure of what gets charged first but as long as you know the Big Boy has to be working for both sets of batteries to get charged. So I had similar problem and first search the forum and found how to dissemble and clean the Big Boy relay. That fixed my problem. The contacts were so corroded with green. It’s not hard if you pay attention to the instructions. Another cause could be my other problem where only 4 of my 8 house batteries were charging. By accident I found the negative cable going to the 4 bad batteries was corroded. By not charging for so long, it killed my batteries. I bit the bullet and purchased 8 new Trojan batteries along with battery caps that prevent the acid from escaping. Very happy now. There is a training paper that Mr. Cherry put out titled “Batteries 101” good training. Big Boy cleaning instructions https://www.monacoers.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=14376&key=b108d0e20c1747e195a3b8031fc23d73

So I first unrolled a foot of material, then held the tension with a screwdriver in the hole on the right hand side, and was able to pull the spline out, separating the material from the RV. I then let the roller slowly unwind in my hands till there is now mo more tension. Can I now remove the black end cap in order to pull the other end of the material off the roller?

I just didn’t look at it close enough. Is the procedure above correct in removing the fabric?

Cherry you were correct. After I climbed up on my ladder. I first said my material was good but my spline or cord was rotted. As you can see in these photos, the thread came out and the spline is fine. I’m pointing to the spline with a pick tool in the photo. So to make sure I do this correctly, 1. I first open the cover to expose the roll of awning material. 2. I open the slide enough to unroll enough material to slide it out of the track. 3. Attach the vise grip tool to keep the spring from unwinding. 4. Either go to a canvass shop to resew, or purchase a whole new fabric. I hearing Stone Voss makes good toppers? Am I correct in my procedure?

The only reason the steps have to be out when installing, is so you can get to the area to work on it. I replaced my motor. I just made sure I took pictures of how the gears were located while the step was out, and installed the motor the same as the old one. Very important to make sure you have all the power switches shut off BEFORE you put your hands up there. There is a harness to unplug, While under there, I disconnected all the hinges one at a time so as to not forget how they go back and lubricated all moving parts with quickie step lubricant. I hear Boeshield T-9 is good too.

My material is fine except for the tube that is sleeved into the fabric which then slides into the track.

I noticed that the fabric is pulling out of the track on my large slide out in my 2007 Dynasty. I was at a flying event in Wisconsin and a fellow Monaco owner told me that it is held in by a tube that deteriorates in time. He suggested a Home Depot tubing that can be fed in from the side to cause the thickness needed to keep from pulling out. Unless there is something that I should be using and any hints as to how to insert into the fabric would be appreciated. I do know how to open the fabric cover to get to the roller assembly. Thanks