CAT Stephen

Hello Frank, Before you consider a rebuild, power on the ECM, then crank the engine to determine if the ECM is throwing a code. The most common issue with the N14 is that can cause the noise that you described is when an injector isn’t grounded.

Never use your Hydraulic jacks to inspect the RV chassis as they could release and put your life at risk. Although an unexpected release is rare, your life is not worth risking over an inspection. Purchase an automotive crawler for ~$29 then you will be able to view everything under the chassis: - https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-LifT-C-6036-36-Plastic-Creeper/dp/B07344KYKM/ref=sr_1_7?crid=ML8CWUS3ABC&keywords=creepers+automotive&qid=1676245303&sprefix=creeper%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-7

Hello Dick, The good news is that you have not yet received an error from your Norcold brow (i.e. your Norcold display). If your cooling unit has failed, you will receive an error message on the brow and / or you will have already observed a yellow substance near the burner area along with the sent of ammonia. As others have indicated, the next step is to determine if your absorption unit is starting to cool after ~12 hours. The temperature differential will be most pronounced in the left hand freezer compartment. Coming to any conclusions before this initial cooling test is inconclusive (i.e. not accurate).

Tim, To accomodate charging your chassis batteries, I recommend the following product: - Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12-Volt 17 amp 120VAC Battery Charger NEMA 5-15 (Bluetooth) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TJK3X71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This charger is ignition proof (IP67) so you can install it within your chassis battery compartment without concern of igniting the hydrogen gas from your chassis batteries. Just make sure that you extend the 120VAC plug to another compartment with a 120VAC outlet. This charger is also bluetooth enabled and you can customize the lead acid charging profile to optimize it for your chassis batteries.

Pete, It helps tremendously that you are storing your rig indoors to protect your rig from UV exposure. With that being said, rubber has a limited lifespan regardless of storage. My coach is a model year 2000. The rubber coolant hoses recently started cracking and, in very few spots, started oozing a rubber goo. As a result, I'm spending ~$2500 to replace every rubber belt and rubber hose on my Onan genset, my CAT 3126B, and my Allison MD3060 transmission next week. I'm even replacing the transmission cooler as it is original equipment to avoid risking $10K transmission repair bill in the event of internal transmission cooler corrosion that may lead to engine coolant contamination of the transmission. The question for your rig now is not if a hose will fail, but when a hose will fail. 28 year old rubber can fail anytime. Most new hoses on the market today are made from silicon rubber which is a big improvement for lifespan, but is also hard on your wallet.

Tough Top vinyl awnings are very good quality. But, if you want the absolute best from a warranty, price, and quality perspective, then go with SunPro via: https://sunpromfg.com/ I replaced all of my awnings with SunPro. They are amazing and have a much better warranty than Tough Top awnings with a better price / value than Tough Top awnings. I am not affiliated with SunPro or Tough Top. I'm just another Monaco owning RVer that had to replace all of my awnings.

Congratulations Dick, Welcome to motorhome ownership! A motorhome is just like a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand) 😄 But, I would not trade the motorhome experience for anything!! To help you with the issues discovered: Fuel Cap The best place to buy a fuel cap is to visit an Autozone or Advanced Auto as they have many fuel caps in stock. Bring your existing fuel cap into the store and start comparing until you find the matching fuel cap then buy a spare just in case. Make sure to bring your motorhome so that you can test the new fuel cap in the parking lot so avoid many trips back and forth. Transmission Temperature Gage Allison Transmission puts their data stream on the J1708 Canbus or the J1939 Canbus, depending on how your motorhome is equipped Using your Engine Make and Model, call your local engine dealer and have them look up the canbus type for you. It will be either the J1708 canbus or the J1939 canbus) Select a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com and view page 7 to determine which engine canbus interface is required on page 7 Download Getting Started Purchase a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com using the outcome of the getting started guide on page 7 If you have a 6 pin J1708 adapter: https://www.bluefire-llc.com/store/6-pin-j1708-adapters If you have a 9 pin J1708 or 9 pin J1939 adapter: https://www.bluefire-llc.com/store/9-pin-j1939j1708-adapters After receiving your canbus adapter and loading the Bluefire software on your iPhone or Android, check to see if your transmission temperature is being transmitted on the canbus while the engine is running: If you see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (95% probability) or your wiring to your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (5% probability) If you don't see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your transmission temperature sensor is defective. If you prefer not to troubleshoot your transmission temperature sensor via DIY, you can have your transmission temperature sensor checked by an Allison Transmission authorized service center. Be prepared to spend ~$200+ to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center diagnose this issue for you. You probably have an Allison MD3060 transmission. I believe this transmission will require a TranSynd fluid change to replace the transmission temperature sender if the temperature sender is defective. If that is the case, the TranSynd fluid and filter change will cost ~$600-$800 to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center do this fluid change for you. You also have a transmission retarder, so the TranSynd fluid will need to be replaced every ~15000 to ~20000 miles, depending on your duty cycle as specified by Allison Transmission. You should proceed to replace the transmission fluid and filters in any case as soon as possible except in the case that you have service documentation from the prior owner where you definitively know when the transmission fluid and filters were last changed. Keep in mind that replacing or overhauling an Allison Transmission in a motorhome can cost between ~$10000-$20000, so don't skimp on Allison transmission maintenance.

Chad, What problem are you trying to solve?

Can you provide the part number for the Sony monitor that you replaced?

Bobby, Yes, Verify the orientation as you cut off the existing connections. Here is the Dometic RJ11 Pinout for your reference: - https://images.app.goo.gl/rTous275UkrMFBHY7 You will need to purchase the following items to change the ends: - RJ11 Male Connectors - RJ11 Crimper Here is a kit containing both items on Amazon: - https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Crimping-Connectors-Network-Stripper/dp/B08DHJBLXQ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1G1PYMW0NB6RA&keywords=rj11%2Bcrimper%2Btool&qid=1673150524&sprefix=Rj11%2Bcrimper%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-6&th=1

Can you elaborate on what application and use case that you want to utilize the RJ11 connectors for? It sounds like HVAC, so if that is the case, you will also need to specify the brand and model of your rooftop air conditioners. Also, what is your basis of condition that would require reversing the RJ11 wiring?

Tom, I’m very technical, so I’ll pursue the path that you indicated. Thank you!!!

Michael, Unfortunately, the Monaco AC wiring diagrams only show outlets locations for each circuit. You will now need pull new replacement wire for the failed wire segment that you identified That happened to me two years ago and I had to run a new wire segment behind my cabinetry since it is impossible to run new wire horizontally through RV walls without removing the thin plywood covering the walls. This replacement took me 14 hours to complete, so get ready for a long day of work. Hopefully, your failed wire segment will be where you have some cabinetry to hide the new wire. If not, you can utilize panduit from Lowes or Home Depot to cover the new wire segment.

Thank You Rick, Here is my use case: I store my Class A at a storage facility and do not run my Norcold until ~24 hours before an RV journey. So, I desire to remotely trigger the Notcold refrigerator to power on. Unlike a residential refrigerator which powers on automatically when power is applied, The Norcold 1200LRIM requires that I physically press the power button on the Norcold Brow control/ user interface. So, my question is not a Victron Cerbo technical question, but Is a Norcold question of how I could trigger something on the Norcold’s controller board using the built-in relays on the Victron Cerbo GX. I currently control my Cerbo GX via the remote panel via the internet to power on and power off other appliances and systems on my coach. So your understanding is correct in that I desire to use the output of the relay controlled by the Cebro to turn on / off the power switch on the Norcold. This, this is a Norcold control board interface question.

I have a Victron Cerbo GX and desire to remotely power on my Norcold 1200 LRIM refrigerator using an appropriate relay. Essentially, I want to simulate pressing the on/off button on the eyebrow interface. I have already tried a Switchbot, but the physical dimensions of the Switchbot ruled out that possibility.

I agree with your assessment that the Norcold cooling units are insufficient. That is why I referenced the JC Refrigeration cooling units. I own a JC Refrigeration cooling unit on my Norcold 1200 and it keeps my freezer at -5F and my refrigerator at 28F on a 95F day on a setting of 7 (I can adjust to 9 which is colder). Much better performance that the factory "Nocold". I did not recommend a Norcold factory cooling unit above because the performance is poor and the tubing has very thin walls which creates a fire hazard.

Jim, Then you best option, provided that you have a Refrigerator opening of sufficient size, is option 2b. This option is vastly less expensive than a new Norcold refrigerator, is not a fire hazard, and is very efficient with a massive interior space uplift versus the Norcold: Another equivalent choice of a 12V compressor RV style refrigerator that has the interior storage and features of a residential refrigerator are the RecPro RV 12V refrigerators. These refrigerators have doors that will not open when you are on bumpy roads just like your existing Norcold and they include standard mounting hardware so that you don't need to do a custom installation. The only catch is that they may or may not fit your existing opening, so measure carefully: https://www.recpro.com/rv-12v-refrigerator/ This option will cost ~$5-$10 per month for electricity if running full time

Hello Jim, There are a few options for you depending on your use case. Your Norcold refrigerator cooling unit can be replaced for a fraction of the cost compared to replacing your entire Norcold refrigerator. And the best benefit to replacing your cooling unit is that the cooling unit performance, reliability, and safety of the aftermarket cooling units is vastly superior to a new Norcold refrigerator. Here are your options depending on your use case. Your use case has a substantial impact on which option will fit best for you: - Option 1: If you are on the grid nearly full time and do not have significant solar power, then stay the course with your existing refrigerator, but make the following changes: This option will cost ~$5 to $10 per month for electricity if running full time using electric power (not propane) Buy a new 12V compressor style cooling unit for your existing refrigerator from JC Refrigeration. Then, if you are within a reasonable driving distance from JC Refrigeration in northern Indiana, have JC Refrigeration install the new compressor based cooling unit. You may also have JC refrigeration ship a cooling unit to a qualified local installer https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-category/norcold-12v-hvac-cooling-units - Option #2: If you have significant solar power (i.e. more than 300 watts) and have more than 200 amp hours of usable battery capacity (this is 200 amp hours of lithium or 400 amp hours of Lead Acid), and your solar power is available while your RV is stored , or you directly pay for the electricity, then: Buy a new 12V compressor style cooling unit for your existing refrigerator from JC Refrigeration. Then, if you are within a reasonable driving distance from JC Refrigeration in northern Indiana, have JC Refrigeration install the new compressor based cooling unit. These units only consume 60 watts when the compressor is running. You may also have JC refrigeration ship a cooling unit to a qualified local installer https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-category/norcold-12v-hvac-cooling-units/ This option will cost ~$5-$10 per month for electricity if running full time Another equivalent choice of a 12V compressor RV style refrigerator that has the interior storage and features of a residential refrigerator are the RecPro RV 12V refrigerators. These refrigerators have doors that will not open when you are on bumpy roads just like your existing Norcold and they include standard mounting hardware so that you don't need to do a custom installation. The only catch is that they may or may not fit your existing opening, so measure carefully: https://www.recpro.com/rv-12v-refrigerator/ This option will cost ~$5-$10 per month for electricity if running full time Another alternative, just for this use case, is to purchase a counter depth residential refrigerator that fits your existing opening, but keep in mind that will be a custom installation which requires that your inverter is on full time since residential refrigerators run on 120VAC. Although most residential refrigerators run on 75-200 watts, the issue is that most inverters draw a significant amount of additional energy (typically 45-100 watts) which put a substantial additional load on your solar system and battery bank. Be careful of advice to run a residential refrigerator without considering the additional electrical load of running an inverter full time. Other big disadvantages of residential refrigerators verses the JC refrigerators compressor cooling units is that the don't have a provision to keep the doors from opening when encountering bumpy roads and they expel their heat into your RV instead of outside your RV. Most RV rooftop ACs are barely sufficient, thus adding a residential refrigerator heat load will make make cooling your RV more challenging in the summer. This option will cost $15-$20 per month for electricity if running full time - Option #3: If you are not on the grid nearly full time and do not have significant solar power, then stay the course with your existing absorption refrigerator, but make the following changes: This option has the highest monthly electricity cost at ~$30-$45 if running full time using electricity, but also has the benefit of running on propane. Buy a new absorption style cooling unit for your existing refrigerator from JC Refrigeration. Also, buy the ARP Absorption Boiler monitor (Called the Fridge Defend) from https://www.arprv.com to eliminate the potential of a cooling unit fire. Then, if you are within a reasonable driving distance from JC Refrigeration in northern Indiana, have JC Refrigeration install the new absorption based cooling unit with the ARP Fridge Defend boiler monitor. The ARP Fridge Defend will also substantially increase the lifespan of your absorption cooling unit by protecting against boiler overheating conditions which lead to internal corrosion and failure of the cooling unit. For additional peace of mind and an absolutely "safe" refrigerant for an absorption cooling unit to make a fire impossible, JC Refrigeration also offers helium based absorption cooling units so you can optionally select a helium based cooling unit instead of an Ammonia based cooling unit: https://jc-refrigeration.com/product-category/norcold-gas-electric-cooling-units/ https://www.arprv.com/purchase.php Purchase Option #1 from ARP because JC refrigeration controls their fans with a thermostat to maintain your warranty Above all things, your personal safety comes first. So, if you fit into use case #3 above, be advised: In all cases, never buy the Norcold or Dometic OEM new gas absorption refrigerators or their associated replacement cooling units due to the risk of fire. Although both Norcold and Dometic have partially addressed their fire issue via safety cutoff safety switches for runaway boiler overheating situations, their cutoff switches don't turn off the boilers until a much higher temperature is reached versus the ARP Control. Also, the JC Refrigeration units have much thicker tubing than the OEM units and are MUCH more efficient at keeping your refrigerator and freezer temperatures down in the safe range. The #1 insurance claim in the RV insurance industry is refrigerator fires. NEVER run an ammonia based cooling unit without an ARP Fridge Defend and / or a fire suppression system attached to the cooling unit. If you are depending on the Norcold and Dometic recall kits alone (i.e. thermal runaway switches) then you are at risk for an ammonia fire when the thin OEM cooling unit tubing corrodes and dumps flammable ammonia on your open propane flame or electric heaters. I have personally been there and done that with my Norcold OEM cooling unit when it failed and was very fortunate. The JC refrigeration Helium based absorption units are vastly superior to the OEM ammonia based cooling units from a safety perspective as there is no potential for fire as Helium is not flammable.

Joe, In your video, your starting batteries are showing ~12.0V before you crank the engine at the key run position. 12.0V at rest means that your starting battery bank may be discharged to the 50% level. If your starting bank was fully charged, it would show 12.6V at rest. I'm concerned that you may have a battery charging issue that is contributing to the starting issue, assuming that your inverter also charges your starter battery bank when you are on shore power. Here is information on using battery voltage to determine state of charge: - https://footprinthero.com/lead-acid-battery-voltage-charts I recommend utilizing a set of jumper cables so that you can use your car or truck starting battery in parallel with your RV starter battery bank to assist with the start after you fully charge your starter battery bank. The 500-700 additional cranking amps will make a substantial difference. If it does not, you may have a fuel system issue. On the Cummins M11, the fuel solenoid may have failed resulting in no fuel being delivered to the engine.

Joe, What engine do you have? This may be a fuel system issue.

Ed, Merry Christmas to you sir!! Thank you for sharing your current equipment. The differences in shunts are power capacity and interoperability features. Since you already have the Magnum shunt (That is included within your ME-BMK battery monitor kit) then I recommend that you stay with that Magnum shunt because your ME-ARC remote fully integrates with your existing Magnum shunt. All Lithium battery systems have a BMS for safety and some have integral shunts built into the BMS, but your ME-ARC remote is not compatible with that BMS shunt. With that being said, there is no harm or suboptimal state by leaving your current configuration (i.e BMS shunt in series with your Magnum Energy shunt) as is. This approach is common and standard as almost all lithium batteries are equipped with an integral BMS shunt to prevent overload. You "might" be able to connect a second Magnum BMK to your existing Magnum shunt. I recommend that you contact Magnum Energy technical support to get their confirm that you can. The technical support from Magnum Energy is excellent!! Yes, you can place more than one shunt in series with the existing shunt. Since your current objective that you shared above is to enable bluetooth connectivity for your battery bank, I recommend that you purchase a Victron 500A Smart Shunt which is available for ~$130 instead of a Victron BMV712 because it is less expensive and offers many additional features over the BMV712 . One of the best features is the ability to monitor your battery capacity remotely by adding a Victron Cerbo GX in the future at your option. Here is the purchasing information for the Victron SmartShunt: https://www.currentconnected.com/product/smartshunt/ One key limitation to keep in mind with your vision of a shunt with Bluetooth connectivity is that Bluetooth range is very limited. Since you have a 40' Class A coach and I assume your new Bluetooth enabled shunt is near the rear of your coach 38' behind your position in the drivers seat because the battery bank is located near the rear of your coach, then you will not be able to connect to your new shunt via bluetooth until you are located ~<15 feet from your shunt. If that limited Bluetooth range doesn't meet your needs, then I recommend that you also purchase the Victron Cerbo GX in addition to the Victron Smartshunt to enable Wifi Connectivity for your smart shunt. Here is the purchasing information for the Victron Cerbo GX. Keep in mind that the Cerbo GX is expensive because it does much more than satisfy your use case above. The Cerbo GX supports a 2.4 Ghz access point, a 2.4 Ghz Wifi Hotspot from your cellular provider, or GSM cellular connectivity on a low monthly cost dedicated cellular connectivity plan. It also have its own access point built in so you may connect to the Cerbo GX directly via its SSID: https://www.currentconnected.com/product/cerbo/

Ed, I am presenting a technical deep dive for you because I don't know your technical knowledge level in RV electrical systems. So please forgive me in advance if I cover details that you already know. Visibility to your battery bank state of charge is good to have because you will know how much energy that you have used and how much energy is remaining. This measurement is called state of charge. Without this visibility, you will not know how much energy is remaining in your batteries. Measuring energy requires a shunt between the house negative battery terminal to all house electrical loads. Here is an example of the SOC visibility to the house lithium battery bank state of charge using two (2) SOK 206 Amp-Hour 12V Lithium Batteries wired in parallel: If you have installed a shunt on your house lithium battery bank, the shunt will measure the precise amount of energy that is used by your house battery bank as a percentage. If you run a 12VDC 30 Amp resistance heater in your water bay for four (4) hours, the energy used is 30 amps * 4 hours for a total of 120 amp hours of energy at 12V. Your shunt will know that this energy was used so it would calculate your state of charge by the following equation: SOC % = (House Battery Bank Capacity in Amp*Hours - Energy Used in Amp*Hours) / (House Battery Bank Capacity in Amp*Hours) Using the example data above, the SOC % = ((412 Amp*Hours Capacity) (120 Amp*Hours Used)) / (412 Amp*Hours Capacity) = 70.8% You may already have a shunt today for energy measurement, but introducing a non-isolated DC to DC charger will make any shunt very inaccurate because non-isolated DC to DC chargers bypass your shunt through the chassis / house 12V ground. So, what should you do now? Here are your choices: If you want SOC visibility either now or in the future for <$300, your only choice is to buy a Victron Orion-Tr Smart Isolated DC to DC charger. The Orion-Tr series is available in 18 amp, and 30 amp models and may be run in parallel for higher DC to DC charging rates: https://www.currentconnected.com/product/orion-smart/ If you elect to utilize the Victron Energy product path, it is critical that you purchase from a reseller with excellent technical support because Victron only provides product support through resellers. I highly recommend purchasing from https://currentconnected.com as I use them exclusively because they provide excellent support for Victron products. Avoid Amazon for Victron Energy products because their support is not strong for this specialized product category. If you don't already have a shunt, I recommend a Victron 500A Smart Shunt which is available for ~$130 https://www.currentconnected.com/product/smartshunt/ If you don't need SOC visibility either now or in the future, you may buy: A Renogy non-isolated DC to DC charger. They are available in 20 amp, 40 amp, and 60 amp models for less than $200. https://smile.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Batteries-Multi-stage-Charging/dp/B07Q4SVX3M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3NAZM3PG7BOM8&keywords=renogy%2Bdc%2Bto%2Bdc&qid=1671812804&sprefix=renogy%2BDC%2B%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1 With this option, you must install a manual switch to enable and disable your DC to DC charger Renogy product support is direct from Renogy. Most people rate their product support fair to poor. A Sterling non-isolated DC to DC charger. https://www.sterling-power-usa.com/batterytobatterychargers.aspx They are more expensive than Renogy or Vitron, but they have better build quality than Renogy and Sterling provides very good support directly from the manufacturer

Ed, Here is the process to determine the right DC to DC charging solution: - Determine if you need visibility to your lithium battery bank SOC (State of Charge). If you need SOC visibility, then you will need an isolated DC to DC charger. - Determine the rated output of your engine alternator by calling your chassis manufacturer - Determine the maximum chassis electrical load by using a clamp-on amp meter while running the maximum chassis electrical loads such as your Diesel engine air intake heater, all headlights/ running lights, and the 12v water bay heater (if applicable). - Determine the maximum DC to DC charger draw by subtracting the maximum chassis electrical load from the alternator rated output then subtract 10%-20% safety factor from the sum. Finally, subtract the DC to DC charger efficiency from the sum. - Select your DC to DC charger not exceeding the final sum determined above. If you want to keep the DC to DC charging solution under $350.00, your choices are either Victron Energy or Renogy. If you want the solution to automatically turn off when you are not running your engine, then your only choice is Victron Energy.

The Rev RV Group can't help you, but if you look at your capacity plate that indicates GVWR, tire pressures, etc., the chassis manufacturer will be indicated there. The chassis manufacturer designs and installs the CAN bus communication system (i.e. J1939, J1706, ect.) to their chassis. Then, look underneath your dashboard for the CAN bus connector which typically has a round dust cover.

To avoid return shipping charges to Bluefire, call your chassis manufacturer (i.e. 90% of coaches use either Freightliner or Roadmaster) to determine if you have J1708 6 pin, J1939 6 pin, or J1939 9 pin. And yes, there are two 9 pin variants which are not compatible with each other.