GringoScot

Flyinhy, as I believe you have the same model residential fridge that I do, I wanted to let you know that I located and uploaded the Frigidaire FRFG1723AV System Diagnostic mode and service data sheet, pending moderator review. This details the diagnostic modes and testing procedures (image "snippet" attached).

jacwjames, 96 EVO, I had a magnet behind the Norcold just for such incidents (many). What I found was that the PO had removed a screw (red "X" in image below) and the bottom plate lifted, possibly during a recent round trip from San Antonio to Georgetown, KY and back. The consequence was that this rubbed/etched the ammonia filled line (red oval in image below) and this is where the ammonia leaked out. I did not notice the missing screw when I installed the ARP nor when I replaced the ice maker and installed a secondary water line shutoff valve. Well, those days are behind me now, and I am grateful that I had the Fridge Defend there as we I was at work and she was away for 5 hours when it finally punctured. 96 EVO, just an FYI if you make the residential leap, it seems intimidating at first, but the secret to success is to take measurements........twice, three times, a dozen times! Our Monaco has an interior door lip to lip distance of 26-1/4" at the bottom and the Norcold fit out/Frigidaire fit in with plenty of clearance. Our front door is not perfectly rectangular and that width decreases just about 2/3rds of the door height but did not impede us. We did remove the passenger seat but did not have any interference issues with the front TV box/cabinetry. I did have to relocate the two rear 120 VAC receptacles for adequate clearance as well .I would suggest folding the front steps in during this process with a secondary door switch/keep, purchasing a cheap Harbor Freight Tools furniture mover, make sure any ceiling mounted lights will not interfere with the top door opening fully, and donate the Norcold to a local sportsman's club (for target practice).

96 EVO, yes, a Magnum ME 2012. I have been deliberating......perhaps I might add a solar panel to the former fridge roof vent area, an isolated inverter, and a LifePo4 battery (200Ah).

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern. I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet. The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing! The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern. I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet. The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing! The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

Flyinhy, I bought some 3/4" thick hardwood and black primer for the side trim. I think this looks really nice. I used black A/C window foam with adhesive backing to trim the top and bottom. The wifey complained about the the freezer light, or lack there of, so I added the strip light below and this "amplifies" some lumens. Now if I can just figure out how to rotate the images I posted...........

The wifey came home after 5 hours to the deep smell of ammonia and an ARP Fridge Defend that had cut power to our Norcold 1200. Wow were we lucky. The hunt began and we found a Frigidaire FRFG1723AV 17.6 Cu. Ft. Counter-Depth Refrigerator on sale. A call to Penske, a stop at Best Buy, and the journey began (sure wish I had access to that lifting cart they used). The Norcold was able to exit the front door, with doors and brackets removed. The Frigidaire was able to enter the front door with the same "attire". I had to lower the fridge base 3.5 inches above the furnace, but it all turned out nicely. I used black primer on 3/4" hardwood to trim the unit in and applied a bit of strip lighting under the unit above the cold air inlet. 6 hours and two spare sets of hands for 30 minutes. Wifey is happy and "now our grocery bill is larger"....besides just the inflation.

"Late to this dance", but I upgraded the lights in my Monaco (Knight) recently. I was tired of replacing Thin-Lite bulbs every 6 months, so I elected to get the Leisurervparts LED RV LED Ceiling Interior Light Fixture 1450 Lumen/Touch Dimmer Switch/12V 20 x 6" Natural White 4000-4500K with the bronze borders vs. the white borders, to better match the interior of my coach. With a residential fridge upgrade in the works, the low light profile aided my tasking. These have a local power button and a 25%/50%/75%/100% dimmer setting that is retained upon power cycle. Leisure LED 1 pack Slim Touch to Dim Light Fixture 1450 Lumens 144 2835SMD leds 10-30V Super Bright Natural White 4000-4500K . Replaces old fluorescent tube light fixtures. 20 x 6.5" x .78" Slim Line High Quality Material and Reliable Performance : this CE and RoHs approved light has a life expectancy of more than 60,000 hours, lasts longer than standard bulb. It is also heat-resistant and anti-corrosive. Built in Touch to Dim Switch Design: switch enables you to go from Off to 25% - 50% - 75% - 100%; it adds great functionality to any area for lighting and it is widely used as perfect replacement light for older fluorescent tube light fixtures. Much Slimmer for more overhead space. Lower Power Consumption & High Energy Efficiency: It comes with 144 pcs 2835 SMD LED Chips. It only draws 18 Watts and provides total 1450 lumens of brightness

"The Chef" wanted as much counter/preparation area as possible, so I decided to utilize soft close drawer slides with the Cuisinart dual convection cooktop. This allowed the device fans (bottom mounted) to fully vent, unobstructed. We use the Microwave outlet, which is a single outlet. Yes, a cord swap here and there, but the microwave/convection oven has a battery backup for the clock.

After "starting production of the bubble factory" I still encountered some areas where my high intensity LED light was not fully visible from the rear of the radiator. Upon closer inspection I found that the heat shield material, that lines the interior of the engine doghouse (under the coach rear floor), was fraying and had become lodged in the lower corners of the radiator. After a good vacuum to clear the debris, my water temps have dropped about 10 degrees from previous levels.

Reference photos.......

Bill R., well a shower valve socket wrench did the trick.....(a few bucks at a home improvement store). There is now a slight "twist" to this wrench 🙂, but "winner, winner chicken dinner"! After cleaning the "green" contacts, I was able to test the sender in a bowl of hot water by the dash and my IR thermal gun proved the sender has seen better days. I will plug the opening until the new sender arrives from across the pond, but at least I now know and the Scangauge D just arrived today....which should get this 2005 Monaco Knight 40PLQ from San Antonio to the Kentucky auto plant with an accurate coolant temperature reading. Again, thank you and Frank for you assistance.

Bill R., thank you for the detailed removal instructions. This was a concern: "would removal require 'subtle deformation' of the component?" (A replacement component is about 2 weeks away from the other side of the pond and my trip is in a few days.) Too, investigating the part number that you generously provided, the 103C (+/-3) that I misinterpreted as the sender max range is actually the alarm position for this sender. Hence, my theory of an incorrectly installed sender, causing a calibration issue with the dash gauge, is debunked. Seeing your photo and learning your removal process, I think I will run conductors from the sender unit, across the floor and to the dash temp. gauge and see if the value is more commensurate with the Scangauge D (that should be arriving today,) eliminating the wiring/connectors from the equation. Again, a big thanks to you and Frank for your quick responses.

Frank Bergamo, thanks for the suggestions. This was my plan tomorrow, if I did not find a narrow wall box wrench.....and my searches at the SA auto parts stores and Harbor Freight were not fruitful. If this tool mod does not work and Bill R. does not have any further suggestions, I may just decommission the current sender, remove an adjacent plug in the head and install the new sender there?

Bill R. perhaps a "lifeboat" (or two) for me? HOW did you get this VDO temperature sender out of the head? What tool did you use? I literally determined that this was a VDO (Czech republic) sender today after many an hour searching for such online from cell phone photos I took of the sender. I cannot find a socket nor box end wrench with a wall thin enough to get between the valve cover and the sender. LIFEBOAT please! Some background......I have a 2005 Monaco and I have been chasing a high (dash) temperature gauge issue since I became the owner 2 years ago. I discovered that there was a "floating ground" to my dash gauges. Each has new, individual grounds at this time. I have a Scangauge D coming before my trip to Kentucky from San Antonio next week and this should give me the accurate reading, but having the dash gauge functional would be nice. On my trip from Dallas to Illinois last year I was constantly downshifting when the gauge would drift at or over 200F. I did all of the maintenance before that Labor Day trip (oil/filter, coolant/flushes/Simple Green, slobber mod, new thermostat and hoses, etc.) but the temp gauge has me borderline paranoid. I can see from the cell phone photos of the the VDO sender that this is a 103C and I am curious if there should be a 120C sender instead and this is causing the high (calibration issue between 103C and 120C) dash temp gauge. 2nd LIFEBOAT, what is the thread size of your temp. sender? 1/2-14 NPT or NPTF? FYI, I noticed that the narrower spade wire (to the high temp dash lamp) was disconnected and coiled back to the plastic cable harness and I will have to get that reconnected once I replace the 103C with the 120C sender. Thanks in advance. VDO A2C59519516 Temperature and Press Senders.pdf