Frigidaire FRFG1723AV 17.6 Cu. Ft. Counter-Depth Refrigerator upgrade....

[GringoScot]

The wifey came home after 5 hours to the deep smell of ammonia and an ARP Fridge Defend that had cut power to our Norcold 1200.  Wow were we lucky.  The hunt began and we found a Frigidaire FRFG1723AV 17.6 Cu. Ft. Counter-Depth Refrigerator on sale.   A call to Penske, a stop at Best Buy, and the journey began (sure wish I had access to that lifting cart they used).  The Norcold was able to exit the front door, with doors and brackets removed.  The Frigidaire was able to enter the front door with the same "attire".  I had to lower the fridge base 3.5 inches above the furnace, but it all turned out nicely.  I used black primer on 3/4" hardwood to trim the unit in and applied a bit of strip lighting under the unit above the cold air inlet.  6 hours and two spare sets of hands for 30 minutes.  Wifey is happy and "now our grocery bill is larger"....besides just the inflation.

Edited March 4, 2024 by GringoScot
Too fast on mouse clicks!!

[Flyinhy]

I am in the process of getting my new fridge  install trimmed out. It's a lot smaller than the Samsung but not very many models fit plus I wanted one with handles. The only downside u found is no freezer light in the new fridge.

[GringoScot]

Flyinhy, I bought some 3/4" thick hardwood and black primer for the side trim.  I think this looks really nice.  I used black A/C window foam with adhesive backing to trim the top and bottom.  The wifey complained about the the freezer light, or lack there of, so I added the strip light below and this "amplifies" some lumens.  Now if I can just figure out how to rotate the images I posted...........

[jacwjames]

I installed a Samsung RF18 in 2019.  Reading the installation instructions they suggest a pretty good clearance to allow for air flow.  I've only got a ~1/2 gap on both side and top of the refrigerator, I did not put any trim to allow for airflow.  

[GringoScot]

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern.  I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet.  The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing!  The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

[cbr046]

Congrats on the new fridge.  I noticed "Cyclopentane" on one of the panels.  I was curious, so . . . .

Quote

Cyclopentane is commonly used for cracking aromatics.  Commercially, ... used to produce a variety of analgesics, sedatives, hypnotics, antitumor agents, CNS depressants, prostaglandins, insecticides, and many other products.  As a solvent for cellulose esters, as a motor fuel, and as an azeotropic distillation agent.  A component of gasoline and used in the manufacture of synthetic resins and rubber adhesives, and also as a blowing agent in the manufacture of polyurethane insulating foam.

 

So if you have any aromatics that need cracking . . . . .

 

I sold my old non-working Norcold 1200 for parts.  Only stipulation was the buyer had to take the whole fridge.  No scavenging!

 

- bob

[GringoScot]

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern.  I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet.  The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing!  The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

[veraken]

On 3/4/2024 at 5:11 PM, GringoScot said:

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern.  I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet.  The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing!  The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

I did something similar.  This is what I used.  I added a thermal switch and an on/off switch to the circuit as well.

ARCTIC F12 (5 Pack) - 120 mm Standard Case Fan, Low Noise, Quiet Motor, Computer, Fan Speed: 1350 RPM - Black

AC Infinity Black Ventilation Grille 18", for PC Computer AV Electronic Cabinets, Also mounts Three 120mm Fans

Snap Disc Thermostat Switch - Circuit On at 100°F and Off at 85°F - Large Flange, Part Number 2511F002-351

mankk On-Off Switch 12V 20A 4 Pins DPST Rocker Switch Panel RV Light Switch

[jacwjames]

16 hours ago, GringoScot said:

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern.  I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet.  The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing!  The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

That will work

[96 EVO]

17 hours ago, GringoScot said:

jacwjames, I took this idea (see image) and added my own twist to address the air flow concern.  I took the former jc-refrigeration internal "fin fans" that I had installed in the Norcold 1200 and now have such mounted above the unit in the roof outlet.  The amount of air that these 12 volt fans push is rather amazing!  The infrared temp gun has not seen anything over 129 F. and it was in the high 80s this past weekend.

GringoScot, are you running the Frigidaire on MSW inverter?

[GringoScot]

96 EVO, yes, a Magnum ME 2012.  I have been deliberating......perhaps I might add a solar panel to the former fridge roof vent area, an isolated inverter, and a LifePo4 battery (200Ah).  

[96 EVO]

Good to know 👍.

My Fridge Defend has powered my fridge down a couple of times on this trip. No leaks though!

But a residential may be in my future sooner than I had hoped !

Good to hear their are options!

[jacwjames]

13 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Good to know 👍.

My Fridge Defend has powered my fridge down a couple of times on this trip. No leaks though!

But a residential may be in my future sooner than I had hoped !

Good to hear their are options!

My Norcold failed, I had the black box.  It tripped twice, reset it with a magnet.  Third time it shut down there was yellow dust covering the bottom of the compartment.  Shut if off and never looked back.  Found a Samsung RF18 on clearance at Lowes for $855 and eventually installed it.  One of the best modes I've done. 

[96 EVO]

Yeah, the 'Black Box' doesn't shut the fridge down till some ridiculous heat in the boiler like 800C!

The Fridge Defend will kill power / propane at about 300C, start a countdown, then restart the fridge. When mine restarts, it's running a normal 170C, for weeks before something odd happens and it repeats the cycle.

I may need to give the flue a brushing.

[GringoScot]

jacwjames, 96 EVO, I had a magnet behind the Norcold just for such incidents (many).  What I found was that the PO had removed a screw (red "X" in image below) and the bottom plate lifted, possibly during a recent round trip from San Antonio to Georgetown, KY and back.  The consequence was that this rubbed/etched the ammonia filled line (red oval in image below) and this is where the ammonia leaked out.  I did not notice the missing screw when I installed the ARP nor when I replaced the ice maker and installed a secondary water line shutoff valve. Well, those days are behind me now, and I am grateful that I had the Fridge Defend there as we I was at work and she was away for 5 hours when it finally punctured. 

 96 EVO, just an FYI if you make the residential leap, it seems intimidating at first, but the secret to success is to take measurements........twice, three times, a dozen times!  Our Monaco has an interior door lip to lip distance of 26-1/4" at the bottom and the Norcold fit out/Frigidaire fit in with plenty of clearance.  Our front door is not perfectly rectangular and that width decreases just about 2/3rds of the door height but did not impede us.  We did remove the passenger seat but did not have any interference issues with the front TV box/cabinetry.  I did have to relocate the two rear 120 VAC receptacles for adequate clearance as well .I would suggest folding the front steps in during this process with a secondary door switch/keep, purchasing a cheap Harbor Freight Tools furniture mover, make sure any ceiling mounted lights will not interfere with the top door opening fully, and donate the Norcold to a local sportsman's club (for target practice).

[96 EVO]

I don't have a Norcold...... Dometic RM1402.

[Just Jim]

I have been considering switching to a residential fridge as well... but I thought I would need to change to a pure sine wave inverter and possibly add more batteries?  My coach has auto gen start, but I've never taken the time to figure out how to use that.  That might be an option instead of adding more batteries. 

[jacwjames]

2 hours ago, Just Jim said:

I have been considering switching to a residential fridge as well... but I thought I would need to change to a pure sine wave inverter and possibly add more batteries?  My coach has auto gen start, but I've never taken the time to figure out how to use that.  That might be an option instead of adding more batteries. 

I can run my Samsung RF18 on the MSW inverter.  I have the standard battery setup, four golf cart batteries,  I can easily go over night with the batteries.  The refrigerator is pretty easy on power consumption AND I haven't had to throw away any spoiled food. 

[Tom Cherry]

RULES OF THUMB OVER THE YEARS

The MSW inverter will do just fine.  Coffee makers and other devices will not fare as well….but a Res Refer will do just fine.

A Four Bank Domestic, assuming in good shape, will suffice for most folks needs.  One needs to set the refrigerator to “Energy Saver” and also KILL the icemaker. Then, running the genny for about 2 - 3 hours daily will keep the batteries charged.  You can use the AGS, but make sure it does not run during “quiet time”.

REMOVE all insulation on the inside.  The Norcold and Dometic both have insulation on either the cabinet or on the interior walls.  YOU NEED AIR CIRCULATION…..do NOT keep or add insulation to the sides….you’ll be SORRY!

The VENTS (bottom and Top side or Roof) need to be 100% sealed and insulated. The new domestic Res Refers have a very narrow window and they will shut down if the temperature behind the refrigerator drops below 36 or freezing.  Insulate the vent covers and any louvers in the side of the frame.  Use Polystyrene or “garage door” panels and double stack and cover with duct or HVAC metal tape.  Close off the roof vent snd stuff in fiberglass insulation.

Use High Strength 3M CLEAR VHB take and afix brackets to the sides or top to hold the refrigerator in place. NEVER randomly drill into the cabinet as there are coils or heaters in there.

Do NOT make up a tight fitting surround or facia frame….leave the gaps open….air circulation….

[Richard Tree]

In our RF18 install, after setting the platform above the furnace, there was enough room at the top of the fridge

just below the roof air vent and the aluminum roof framing to install an anti-tip block and rubber pad. This limits the in/out tilt

possible with chassis flexing.  TDon't rely on tying the base of the fridge to he platfor only.  This is the same approach used for large

counter depth fridge/freezer units such as  Kitchen Aid, Viking and others. Ours, doesn't move. 

[GringoScot]

Flyinhy, as I believe you have the same model residential fridge that I do, I wanted to let you know that I located and uploaded the Frigidaire FRFG1723AV System Diagnostic mode and service data sheet, pending moderator review.  This details the diagnostic modes and testing procedures (image "snippet" attached).

[Dr4Film]

@GringoScot I hope you saved the wooden door inserts from the NotSoCold for any needs in the future.

@jacwjames That image is actually a set of fans that I had built back in 2010 for my 02 Windsor to place in the top of the rooftop exhaust vent to get more airflow in back of the NotSoCold. No Joy, so I had a Samsung RF-197 installed in April 2012, That fridge is still going strong for the new owners of my Windsor. He did have to install a new sensor in the upper fridge compartment a year or two later as the fridge area was not defrosting correctly.

[Dean Bennett]

On 3/6/2024 at 7:48 AM, Tom Cherry said:

RULES OF THUMB OVER THE YEARS

The MSW inverter will do just fine.  Coffee makers and other devices will not fare as well….but a Res Refer will do just fine.

A Four Bank Domestic, assuming in good shape, will suffice for most folks needs.  One needs to set the refrigerator to “Energy Saver” and also KILL the icemaker. Then, running the genny for about 2 - 3 hours daily will keep the batteries charged.  You can use the AGS, but make sure it does not run during “quiet time”.

REMOVE all insulation on the inside.  The Norcold and Dometic both have insulation on either the cabinet or on the interior walls.  YOU NEED AIR CIRCULATION…..do NOT keep or add insulation to the sides….you’ll be SORRY!

The VENTS (bottom and Top side or Roof) need to be 100% sealed and insulated. The new domestic Res Refers have a very narrow window and they will shut down if the temperature behind the refrigerator drops below 36 or freezing.  Insulate the vent covers and any louvers in the side of the frame.  Use Polystyrene or “garage door” panels and double stack and cover with duct or HVAC metal tape.  Close off the roof vent snd stuff in fiberglass insulation.

Use High Strength 3M CLEAR VHB take and afix brackets to the sides or top to hold the refrigerator in place. NEVER randomly drill into the cabinet as there are coils or heaters in there.

Do NOT make up a tight fitting surround or facia frame….leave the gaps open….air circulation….

X 2! - Norcod, outside air envelope. Res-fridge, inside open air envelope. If you get a build-in fridge, you can trim around it. I've been running my res fridge and trash compactor on a Xantrex RV3012 (modified sine wave) for 10+ years now. I added about 400W of additional panels to cover the fridge upgrade and don't need to run the gen. Love it!

 

[Brad Loehr]

The Frigidaire looks great.

Can I ask a question about clearances?  In my 2005 HR Endeavor if I lower the fridge floor and make it with 1/2 plywood and add 1/2 clearance for the furnace top (Min clearance from Attwood) I will gain a max of 3 3/4 inches.  My Norcold cut out is 64 3/4"and I can get around 1 1/4" more if I cut out the top part of the fridge cabinet and save the space for my 5/8 deep roof LED light near the swing area of the doors.

This will give me a total of 68 3/4"total height for fridge clearance.  Did you run into any issues with fitment of your Frigidaire? 

It looks like it would be a great fit.  The Norcold was the maximum of 28 1/4" deep.  How do you find the fridge depth at 31" with the handles plus another 1.25"for rear clearance?

[GringoScot]

⁷https://www.monacoers.org/profile/7483-brad-loehr/, I too adhered to the 1/2" Atwood furnace clearance guideline when I lowered the plywood base.  I created a 2" x 2" wooden subframe. With that said, I DID NOT install the bottom leveling feet brackets (these just stuck out too far and seemed to "attract" my chins.)  I leveled with wooden shims.  I was able to cut 2"x 1/8" aluminum flat bar (Lowes) and transfered the bracket bolt holes to the aluminum.  These brackets were then bent 90 degrees and screwed into the the bottom "footer".  I now have a 1" gap between the top of the fridge and the "header".  As seen in my earlier photos, I tried to attach L-bracket with industrial grade adhesive.  This worked until the first speed bump leaving the park.  So, I attached temp. aluminum "diving plates" to support the fridge at the top.  These "fugly" things are removed when we set up.  I was only able to get two screws in the rear, bottom of the fridge sub plate.  The doors clear the wood trim and do not protrude out too far. My LED strip light is between the louvers and the fridge bottom. It looks clean and SHE is happy, so life is good. 😉

I did not have to modify the header board above the fridge. I added 1/2" x1" wood trim, painted black, around the fridge sides.  I added 3/4" adhesive backed foam to the top of the fridge to allow some airflow.  Two temperature switched 5" fans keep the compressor ventilated and we just drove from San Antonio to mid Illinois without an issue.

Edited July 4, 2024 by GringoScot
Fat fingers