daveyjo

Thanks. I'm looking forward to hearing from you.

Well, I finally got to take a picture of the issue. I was wrong about something hanging down and preventing the door from opening fully. See attached photo. What the issue appears to be is that the screws holding the track to the ceiling are hitting on the roller mechanisms somehow and blocking the door from sliding/rolling. I tightened the screws I could reach, moved a block of wood that kept both sliding doors stopping at the middle, and moved the problem door so it was right in the middle of the doorway. Now I can't get the door back in it's compartment. The sliding mechanism holding the door to the track appears to have some adjustment level but I haven't been able to position it to allow the door to move. Does anyone know what the mechanisms are called? I was hoping I could google the mechanism and see some instructions for it . Or better yet, does anyone on the forum know how to fix the door slider?

I'll post one next time I am at the coach. Thanks. Dave

One of the two hallway sliding doors accessing the bedroom on my 2005 HR Scepter (the roadside door) can't be fully opened. At the top road side edge of the door It looks like a 2x4 board has descended down from the ceiling by several inches, and it is perpendicular to the ceiling. When opening the door, it stops several inches before being fully open - when it hits the 2x4. I can't reach or touch it as it is way inside and at the top of the pocket for the door. I am stymied. Anyone have a clue as what/how to deal with this?? Maybe it is some broken special device to keep the door open? Maybe the 2x4 is supposed to descend into a hole in the top edge of the sliding door? The little locking pin at the bottom edge of the door doesn't appear to have anything to do with this issue except I can't slide the door open enough to use it. Dave Jones 2005 Scepter

My generator manual says :Starting the Generator Push and hold control switch in START position until the generator starts. Release switch. On diesel models the control switch may flash up to 15 seconds, indicating engine preheat. NOTE: Diesel models may require priming. Hold control switch in the OFF position for one minute. Repeat if necessary. The diesel generator fuel pick-up tube is cut to approximately ¼ tank so as not to run the main engine out of fuel. So maybe prime it for a minute. Mine wouldn't start sometimes and gradually got worse until priming wouldn't start it. Turned out the cooling temp sensor was bad. Works beautifully now.

I composed the attached document to share with someone with a windshield cracking problem on a 2005 Camelot, but it pretty much summarizes what I have learned about the problem. I drove my used 2005 Scepter for about 12,000 miles without a windshield problem. Then I had 3 cracked windshields in a row before Safelite auto glass said you need to do some bodywork before we will put a 4th windshield in, and they shared a Monaco pdf with me about windshield problems with 2005, 2006 and 2007 Camelots and Scepters. The last, and successful, replacement was done by Twin City Auto Glass. To summarize, it was after some frame reinforcement that the last windshield was installed, and like Chuck B says, they installed it per Monaco's instructions, i.e., level floor, coach at ride height, a new gasket applied (the first 3 I tried did none of these), and let the gasket adhesive dry for 24 hours before moving the coach. So far, after 3800 miles and 19 months it has not cracked. Twin Cities Safelite did not do the final replacement. I am guessing that it is labor intensive to replace the gasket and leave the coach set for 24 hours, so skipping those steps was more profitable for them. Overview of my experience with windshiels cracking in Monaco Camelots and HR Scepters.docx

Been that way for at least a couple of years. Now I can worry about the risk!😉

I always need to pull twice on the door handle. I like it because it acts as a second security device. FYI.

I bought a used 2005 HR Scepter in 2019, and one of my furnaces wouldn't show up. Turns out the dip switches needed to be SET. As I recall, I accessed them from inside the coach. But it was clear that the factory in 2005 had never set them, as the user's manual was still stuffed inside the furnace on the outside and probably would have started a fire if the furnace had EVER been use. The coach had spent its life in Southern California and Phoenix, so I guess no one ever wanted heat??? FYI.

Usually the drawings themselves tell what coaches they apply to. So check out the 2004 Camelot and Scepter drawings themselves.

I have city water at home, which is chlorinated, and I fill and flush my system once with that and then refill with city water. That's it.

I have been trying to figure out what LED headlights to buy for my 2005 HR Scepter. I know they take type H9 Halogen lamps for both high and low beams, but when reviewing postings I get confused, so I thought I'd go to some vendors for info. It appears that M4 products is a pretty reliable vendor, and headlight revolution (https://www.headlightrevolution.com/search?keywords=customer service) is also highly recommended for good info. Of course their online lamp selector wants to know what make of CAR I have, and of course, Monaco or Holiday Rambler don't exist among their choices, but it occurred to me that if I knew what car is the source of the headlight assembly in my coach (2005 Scepter), perhaps I could approach these vendors with that information and see what they suggest. I saw a suggestion to see what the OEM number is on the assembly, but I can't see a number on it. Attached is a picture of the headlight.

I am able to utilize the FamCamps, but unfortunately they offer no reservations. Nevertheless, we will consider it. Thanks for the idea. Dave

We are exploring some travel options and need some advice. We live in Minnesota are trying to coordinate an RV visit to Maine (Acadia, Booth Bay, etc.) to see our kids sometime after Labor Day. We also need to be in Lisbon, Portugal September 21to October 8th, 2021, and are planning to be back in Minnesota in time to catch our flight to Portugal. There is probably plenty of time to make that happen, but we just realized that we could instead park the RV near Boston and fly to Portugal from there, thereby eliminating any time crunch, and just drive the RV home to MN once we return. Which brings me to my question. Where could I safely park my RV ( and maybe the car) near Boston and easily be able to get to and from Boston Logan airport? I would need AC power to keep my fridge powered and may even need to use my propane furnace should freezing weather happen, but I wouldn’t need other facilities that an RV park might offer. I could use my car to get to and from the airports if that is more cost effective than storing the car, and take public transportation to the airport. I could also travel instead from New York City if there were better options for storing the RV there. I would greatly appreciate any advice about the idea. Dave Jones 2005 Scepter

I don't have a clue why it is happening, but I had a similar problem with my 2001 Diplomat. Fuse would blow sometimes and a new fuse fixed things for a while. For a few bucks I bought an auto resetting fuse from an auto parts store and never had the problem again.

Rest in peace, Bill. We'll miss you.

FYI. Weather too cold to go sniffing for it myself. Mike's LP Gas, Maplewood, MN found my leak in no time. Leaking hose going to the regulator. Took it in at 10 AM, done by 3 that afternoon. Good job! Dave

Wow. Thanks for all the responses and ideas about my gas leak. I guess I need to go by some propane and start sniffing (Ugg - it's cold and snowy here!😉). The propane sniffer is due to arrive tomorrow. Stay safe! Dave

Thanks, Scotty. I forgot that I do indeed have a water heater too. I just ordered a sniffer from Amazon. Good idea.

My 2005 HR Scepter has apparently developed a gas leak this winter. I live in cold Minnesota, and the coach is in storage here. I haven't paid much attention to propane levels as I never use much. Have a residential fridge, so cooktop and furnaces are the only propane consumers. Tank was pretty full when I put it in storage this fall. Took the coach for an exercise ride a couple of days ago, and the furnaces wouldn't come on, so I tried the gas stove burners. Nothing! Mechanical gauge on tank says completely empty. Aladdin monitoring system says almost empty, and that system is not very accurate anyway. So I think I have a gas leak. Before I put some propane back in the tank and start looking for a leak, I thought I'd ask the Forum for ideas and experiences. Any ideas, folks?

For what it's worth, on my old 2001 Diplomat, in about 2012 some of the stitching had broken on some awnings along the exposed sides of the covers. It wasn't a lot, but clearly things were deteriorating. Also, they would collect rain as they bowed under the weight of rainwater collecting on top of them and they would gradually let the rainwater drip onto the slideout top they were designed to protect. I hand re-stitched just the deteriorating stitching, probably with nylon thread, and then sprayed all my exposed awning cover fabric on all four slide-outs with a clear Silicone Water Guard spray available from Walmart sporting goods (about $6 a can), and never had another problem with them. I'd re-spray them every couple of years. I sold the coach in 2017 and the awning covers AND ALL THE STITCHING were still in good shape. They showed no further deterioration and remained waterproof. I now spray the awning covers on my 2005 Scepter every year or two and have seen no deterioration. As an aside, the waterproofing spray is superb for waterproofing ink jet printer documents (or any document, actually) like, for example, to carry in your boat.😉 Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I will post it if I ever find it.

Thanks for the response. I'll look into it.

My coach frequently has an irritating rattle as I drive. It sounds like it is coming from above and behind my left shoulder. Recently I put a ladder up against the driver’s side retracted slide out and banged on things from the outside. The driver’s side awning seems secure, but when I banged on the housing for the slide out cover it sounded like the cover retracting spring was laying on the aluminum housing and rattling around. The spring is not broken, as the slide out cover retracts OK when I retract the slide out. Is there something that is supposed to go between the spring and housing (like a plastic tube) to prevent it rattling, or could the spring just not be wound tight enough? I’d welcome any ideas. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I use the powerpulse sometimes, but my concern is using them while is storage with no external power to maintain the battery charge level. How much power do they consume? I don't want my batteries to go dead while in storage because of the power used by them.