daveyjo

To be honest, I don't remember where they came from, but I'll be more careful next time. Thanks. Dave

Not at all. Enjoy. Can you actually enjoy having them??😉

Here is a set. 2006 Windsor Camelot and Scepter wiring diagrams.pdf

OK, thanks to all the clues from the forum, I found the outdoor temperature thermistor. Thank you, thank you, thank you. It was in the fuel tank compartment but on the road side attached to the ceiling. I unplugged the sensor- with its 1 foot lead - and measured continuity directly. The resistance changed as I warmed it up, so the next question was why doesn't the Aladdin read any temperature? I bypassed the interconnection wiring and connected it directly to the Aladdin connector box on the ceiling of the slide out storage bay and it worked fine - plugged into either the outdoor temp connection OR the basement temperature connector, so it appears the Aladdin electronic system is not why I have been gettin -31 degrees as my temperature readings. Clearly it is that the connection between the outdoor sensor/thermistor and Aladdin connector box is broken, and appears is the same problem for my basement temperature sensor. So, maybe two broken wires is my problem?? So now my challenge is to either run a new wire or decide if just the connectors are bad. Now that I suspect a broken wire for the basement sensor, my challenge is now to find the thermistor for the basement/water compartment. Both 2 wire leads go to a tunnel of sorts in the ceiling of the basement and I couldn't trace them any further. So, if anyone has a clue as to where the basement temp sensor is, I'd love to hear it. (I'm guessing it is in the sewer bay behind the shield in some place almost impossible to get at.)😉 Also, does anyone have a clue about finding a replacement thermistor in case I can't find the basement sensor? Thanks for all the help. Best regards, Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

In my case they bought an exact replacement and it worked fine. But I did tell them I thought an exact replacement was the safest way to go, given all the comments on the forum.

Wow, thanks everyone for the tips and pics for the outdoor sensor. I'll check there the next time I get to the RV. Even if the sensor was a thermocouple instead of a thermistor, I should have measured some resistance so I am still stymied about what the sensor is. This will really help if I can find the sensor. Dave Jones

I have seen the many cautions about buying a replacement alternator vs. rebuilding. When mine went out in my 2001 Diplomat, they could not rebuild it so they bought a new one. I cautioned them about the many warnings on the forum, and they went ahead and bought a direct replacement and it has worked wonderfully since then. The details from my maintenance log are: Replaced alternator ($585) at Johnny’s auto and marine electric (labor $275), Raleigh, NC. Was a 2824LN-NP Leece Neville (same as bad one), and alternator pulley and 1 cable end. Total $965.66. I guess one can buy new and have it work.

Thanks. That makes good sense. It is about removed as you can get from heat sources. I'll look there. Dave

Thanks, Dwight. I presume you did not need to install new light fixtures? Dave🖐️

I recently posted something about where are my Aladdin temperature sensors, and got some feedback but haven’t found them yet. I traced the leads from the connection modules in the main basement storage compartment for a little ways, beyond which they were inaccessible. The leads went over to a channel in the basement center, where they both seemed to head toward the front of the RV. I used a wire tracer but the signal faded out as I got toward the front of the channel in the ceiling. So I still don’t know where they ended up. It looks like a lot of work to get inside the ceiling channel and trace the leads further. At that point I decided maybe it would be easier just to put in some new sensors and route them where I please. I assumed the system uses thermistors (resistors that change resistance with temperature) to sense the temperature, and I thought all I need is to find some new necessary thermistors. That’s when my new problems started. I measured the resistance of both sensors and found they were both either open circuits or the sensors were something other than thermistors. So now I am stumped. The ceiling mounted box where the sensor leads plug in maybe has power (it is a tiny pinhead sized light (no doubt an led) that blink quite rapidly but is barely bright enough to be seen, so I don’t know if it is a power issue or what else the issue is? The Aladdin tank levels except propane don’t work (but show a number other than zero), so maybe the Aladdin system itself is broken rather than those tank sensors. So, anyone have ideas about this??. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I am considering installing LED headlight bulbs in my 2005 HR Scepter. My coach uses H9 tungsten filament bulbs in, surprisingly, both hi and low beam lamp fixtures. The low beam fixture looks like it has an opaque filter/lens in front of the bulb, and the high beam lens is crystal clear. To understand things better, I went to my local NAPA store and asked about replacing the H9 bulbs with LED bulbs. He told me I may have to have new light fixtures with LED bulbs, as the LED light sources do not emit light in all directions like a tungsten filament in my H9s, but are instead flat surfaces. That makes sense. NAPA did not carry any. Then I stopped at the local AutoZone, where they showed me high output tungsten bulbs and assured me that they were LED bulbs. I left. So now I am at my favorite knowledge store, Monacoers. Here are my questions: 1--Do I need to replace my headlight fixtures as well as my lamps in order to switch to LED lights? 2--If not,what LED lamps would replace my H9 tungsten lamps? There were some recent posts about using M4 LED bulbs, but I am unclear if an M4 replaces lots of tungsten bulbs including an H9. 3--I am also not sure about using an LED lamp behind an opaque lens/filter in my low beams. Are there issues? I went to the www.M4products .com website (RVgeeks5) that was recently mentioned, but obviously haven’t got my questions answered. Can anyone answer my questions? Thanks in advance for considering my questions. Dave Jones

Not yet, but thanks for the idea. I started the coach yesterday but forgot to look at the gauges for probably 20 minutes. By then the fogging had subsided a bit (or it was cold and didn't fog as much) and the oil pressure gauge (bottom) and the air pressure gauge (top) we still foggy but the ones between top and bottom seemed not very foggy. I'll pay more attention next time I start the coach, and I'll check the air pressure gauge for leaks. Thanks again for the idea.

My 2005 HR Scepter has had some serious air leaks, and still leaks down completely in 24 hours or less. I have replaced lots of leaky fittings and am pleased that it holds air better that it used to, but obviously I need to keep searching. I got some good ideas from Bob Nodine's post. But here is the symptom I am curious about and I don't know if it is even relevant. When I start the coach when all the air is gone (and maybe whenever I need a goodly amount of air), the oil pressure and temperature and maybe other small gauges low on the dash fog up for a while. After 20-30 minutes they clear. How that could be related puzzles me? It is like some moisture laden air is released under the dash and discharges through my gauges. Any how, I thought I would post this and see if anyone has ideas about why it happens or is it related to air leaks. Dave Jones

I have had the same problem several times, and it was the brake shoes bonded to the drum from being parked while wet. Like Bob, I just had to rock the coach a bit and suddenly BAM and they would break loose. It can be a little scary applying power while the brakes are locked, tho. But be ready to apply brakes right away once they break loose.

Thanks for the files, Bob.

Indeed I have figured out that my subwoofer is /was under the table in the cabinet. Thanks to all for the information. It turns out that the subwoofer was powered by the Riverpark switch box in the side cabinet above the driver. That in turn was apparently controlled by the RCA Home Theatre system. The home theatre system was removed by a former owner. Therefore, I had nothing to tell the RiverPark controller what to do. Also, the RiverPark controlled the sub-woofer and front center speaker, which no longer were driven by anything since the RCA Home Theatre was gone. So I tossed the subwoofer and hooked up my JVC dash radio (also replaced by former owner) to the remaining speakers in the coach, putting the left front and front center together. At least now the speakers work. My next challenge is connecting the TV to the radio input.

I removed the unit under the table and it is indeed the non-powered subwoofer. I had a River Park sound management box that connected the JVC dash radio to the speakers, but no receiver anymore to drive the River Park and make it do connections. I can't figure out what wires fed the subwoofer from the RiverPark yet. My dash radio (a replacement, I am sure) has a subwoofer out jack so if I can figure out how to connect the JVC subwoofer out to the rca rtd250 subwoofer, maybe it will work?

The Monaco electrical diagrams show a left and right front speaker, a left and right rear speaker, a center speaker and a subwoofer in my coach. I can't find the subwoofer. But some electrical diagram from some related coach showed a subwoofer in a cabinet under the table, but when I look inside one of the cabinets under the table there is a sealed off, built in metal box (maybe 14"x14"x6") inside of it, and no storage space. The other door under the table is just shelf storage. The box sure doesn't look like any subwoofer I have ever seen, and it is hard to believe it is a subwoofer. It doesn't woof (make noise), either. It has no outlet on it's smooth visible face, but does have an upward facing small opening on the upward facing surface. So, does anyone have an idea what the box is? Is it a nonfunctional woofer with no sound outlet on its face? See attached photo.

Where are the temperature sensors (I assume thermistors) located in a 2005 HR Scepter or 2005 Camelot? Mine show -31 degrees or so on the Aladdin, so I assume they are disconnected, shorted or non-existent, or the Aladdin is broken.. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I composed much of this to share with someone with a windshield cracking problem on a 2005 Camelot, but it pretty much summarizes what I have learned about the problem. I drove my used 2005 Scepter for about 12,000 miles without a windshield problem. Then I had 3 cracked windshields in a row before Safelite auto glass said you need to do some bodywork before we will put a 4th windshield in, and they shared a pdf with me about windshield problems with 2005, 2006 and 2007 Camelots and Scepters. Apparently about June 1, 2007 Monaco published a PDF entitled 2006 service bulletin about windshield cage reinforcement. I don’t understand the dates on it, as it says 6-12-2010 on it too. It also is clearly marked DRAFT, for whatever that is worth. It is attached to this note. I have included below pretty much everything I learned as I tried to resolve the problem. But before that, here is my take on the issue: Someone at REV said if the coach was built in 2004 (still a 2005 model year) the problem might not be as severe. Well, mine was assembled in 2004. I had 3 windshields replaced by Safelite auto glass (they paid for all the replacements except the original paid for by my insurance company). (After installing the last new windshield, I had driven the coach 20 miles to storage, left it with airbags pumped up but pretty leaky system) and the next morning the windshield had cracked again. After the 3rd breakage they told me they would try again, but not until I had some coach body work done first (citing the service bulletin pdf by Monaco). The windshield supplier (I think from Coach Glass) gave Safelite the PDF Monaco published, which they then gave to me, so they were convinced it was a chassis issue. They then recommended Bono Bros, a twin city truck body shop in Minneapolis do the update, and I took the coach to them. Bono Bros ripped the front end of the coach apart, and concluded that the PDF didn't match how my constructed in 2004 coach was constructed. They said the windshield was attached to a pure Fiberglas frame that had no supports. So they attached aluminum angle iron braces to the sides and a support rod across the top of the windshield and reassembled it. I have driven it about 7,000 miles over the last 7 months (MN to FL and back), and it has not broken. However, whenever we park it, we dump air, and if we are going to use it, level the coach. Bona Bros repair was less than 3 grand- not including windshield cost. (Rev in Oregon said the issue might not ever be repairable, but they would try but it might cost $15,000 with no guarantees. (I don't know if their repair was to be the same as what Bona Bros did to my coach.) Now, my opinions are that Safelite auto glass NEVER installed the glass per Monaco's specs, i.e., the coach should be both level and at ride height, the clearance should be at least 1/2" all around, and the coach should not be moved for 24 hours to allow adhesive to set up. At Bono Bros, it sat for more than 24 hours after the repair before I drove it. It was installed by Twin City Auto Glass, who I think is part of a different national chain like Safelite, rather than Safelite actually doing the 4th installation. I have had work done by them on a prior coach, and it was good. For the first time in all the window replacements, they installed and glued in place a new gasket. I recall someone maybe at REV saying the cracking might have been caused by the gasket adhesive failing after 16 or 17 years, and so replacing the gasket, letting the adhesive dry for 24 hours, maybe having the coach level (it never was at all 3 installs at Safelite) might be the solution. Don't know, but if you have yours replaced without trying body work, I would insist they replace the gasket (not a trivial job as it is glued in place), level the coach, check clearances and let it set on level ground for 24 hours before moving it. I would also dump air before parking it. So maybe the pdf bulletin did not apply to my coach as it was built in 2004, or maybe installing the windshield following Monaco’s suggested repair procedure, or maybe installing a new gasket, or Bono Bros installation of reinforcing, or maybe all 4 factors is what has kept it from cracking now. I have my fingers crossed. Hope the info is useful. Sorry my response is so long, but I wanted to document what I went through for my records and so I can easily share it with someone if the subject comes up again. It can be a pretty terrifying problem. Dave Jones 2006 Cam, Sce Draft SVC Bulletin.pdf

Solved: I have been trying to figure out where the 7 amps discharge reported by the Aladdin is going. The trombetta relay was probably energized. The salesman’s switch relay was bypassed. Here is what I found using an ammeter and NOT the Aladdin display. My Aladdin reading is apparently always 4 amps low, i.e., if you add 4 amps to whatever it says, you have pretty much what is flowing in or out of the battery. So that meant I was really discharging only 3 amps. By measuring with an ammeter: The light in the rear electrical bay pulls a little over 1 amp. The Aladdin itself draws 1 amp. The Trombetta relay coil draws about 0.5 amps. So if I disconnect the Trombetta (I think it should disconnect itself if the house and chassis battery voltage get too far apart), turn out the light in the electrical bay (it’s on ‘cause I am meddling in there), and turn off the Aladdin, my real discharge is a manageable half amp or so. But the big discrepancy is that the actual house current is always +4 amps more than the Aladdin display says. When plugged in, the Aladdin says -2 or -3 amps and if I add the +4 amp display error, it says I am charging by a couple amps, which is reasonable just sitting with not much on. Although the answer was simple, it sure took a while to figure it out.

When I am plugged in and on shore power, fully charged house batteries, Aladdin says I have a 2 or 3 amp discharge. When I unplug, it says 7 amp discharge with inverter off (microwave is off, solar disconnected, TV stuff disconnected and fridge is unplugged). Everything I can think of is off except the Aladdin. What can be pulling that much power? Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I live in Minnesota and want to go to Mass and on up to Maine. I am less concerned about routes than I am travel during the Covid crisis. I was told many states out east have a 2 week quarantine, so how do things work when going from state to state? Do RV parks say anything about quarantines? I feel like one can shelter in place in an RV. I have to buy groceries wherever I am, so I feel like buying fuel is the biggest additional risk in traveling. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

https://cgj.com/ CJ@C did mine. Works OK. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I installed relays and powered the actual bulbs from a +12 volt feeder terminal if the front electrical bay of my former 2001 Diplomat. So the headlight switch turned on the relays which then supplied power to the lamps without going through the headlight switch. I found the relays as a set along with a wiring harness somewhere on-line. Try Googling headlight relays. Also, here is a 5 year old note I had saved about using relays. I just mounted the relays next to the headlights somewhere. Maybe even use the "professional" method Monaco used to use, i.e., just dangle the relays from the wires. Adding Headlight Relays Many Monaco coaches were originally wired with the headlight and dimmer switches directly controlling the headlights. That is, there was no interposed relay, so all the headlight current passed through both switches. Due to the voltage drop across the switches, and the length of wiring, the voltage at the headlight bulbs was far below 12 volts, and thus the headlights were quite dim. Attempting to use higher wattage bulbs only makes the problem worse, as the higher current causes even lower voltage. The most successful way of correcting this is to put two relays in the circuit (one for high beam and one for low beam), so that the high current path for the headlights is “battery to relay to headlights to ground”. The lower current "headlight control" path becomes “battery to headlight switch to dimmer switch to relay coil to ground”. You can use the same type relays that are commonly found in the electrical bay (the bay with several cube-shaped relays, fuses, and connections). In most cases, the circuit from the headlight switch to the headlights passes through this bay anyway. Specifically, the relay type you need is 30 Amp, 12 V, SPST (single pole, single throw, although double throw will work as well), available at Radio Shack or auto parts stores. You can use a Radio Shack part number 275-226 or a Tyco (formerly Bosch) relay with specs of 12V 30A. There will typically be 4 or 5 blade-type connections on the bottom of the relay, labeled as 30, 85, 86, 87, and (optionally) 87a. You can use corresponding female compression connectors on the wires that you will connect to the relay. The most difficult part of the modification may be finding the two wires that come from the headlight hi/lo switch (the steering column mounted switch you use to set the headlights to high or low) and go to the high and low headlight filaments. With any luck, they will pass through the bay where you want to mount the relays. Cut these wires and connect them to the relay terminals as follows: High beam wire from switch - to terminal 86 of relay 1; Low beam wire from switch - to terminal 86 of relay 2. Wire going to headlight low beams - to terminal 87 of relay 1; wire going to headlight hi beams – to terminal 87 of relay 2. A new ground wire from terminal 85 of each relay to a good ground point. 12V power wires to terminal 30 of each relay. These last connections should include inline 20 Amp fuses. The power source should be one that is always hot (not switched on by the ignition switch). Usually you will find a copper “bus bar” or connection strip that feeds other relays and circuits and can easily supply the needed current. You will not use terminal 87a of the relays, if present