daveyjo

I assume your ignition is off. If you remove the fuse, the relay lets power go to the TV, but if the relay is stuck open, removing the fuse won't help.

I have read posts talking about how much less expensive it is to get a coach painted in Mexico.

Thanks for the suggestions on my controller board problem. I recently posted about problems with a new control module for my 2005 HR Scepter power step. I spent several days trying to solve my step issue, and thought I would post my solution in case someone else encounters the same problem. I bought a Lippert Electric Step Control Module, REV 164889. The package label says it is for all Lippert steps, but clearly it isn’t. I installed it but it did not work. After testing it against a Lippert test procedure, it appeared defective so I got a new one, which tested the same way. My conclusion – I must be doing something wrong, so I went back to the drawing board. I discovered that the Monaco wiring harness in my coach didn’t match up with the new control board, i.e., the red and yellow leads on the new module were reversed from that on my old module at the 4 prong connector, as well as reversed from the coach side wiring harness. I reversed the red and yellow leads on the module, and it now works mostly. (The coach red was +12V dc, the yellow 0 volts with ignition off, +12v with ignition on.) The only issue now is that, after extending, the steps won’t retract unless I turn the ignition on, which makes it hard to store the coach with the steps retracted. But even that can be overcome if I turn the chassis power off, then back on while steps retract, and then off again. The only module I could find for my 2005 Scepter is the one I bought, but there must be another module that would match the coach side connector and my old defective module. FYI, Lippert does sell a different shape module for 2006 and newer coaches, so I clearly didn’t have the 2006 and newer module. I hope this will help someone else solve a step issue. Dave Jones

I am stymied. My electric step on my 2005 HR Scepter quit working. The step itself works when powered up using just a battery, so clearly the motor is OK, and my diagnosis is that the controller has failed (corrosion of wires at circuit board resulted in wires coming loose from board. Resoldering didn’t fix it.) So I bought a replacement board from Veurinks. Board is a Electric Step Control Module REV 164889 and is a rectangular one – not the one that has a triangular mounting plate as part of it and is for steps newer than 2006. It seems like that is the only one available for Quickee steps prior to about 2006, and it looks like and connects the same as my old one. In every picture I see of the Quickee step, mine looks like the Quickee. The new board installs perfectly, but it doesn’t work. I finally dug out a Quickee trouble shooting guide and went through it. In step one, the step activated but when it was supposed to retract, it extended. If I reverse the 12V power leads going to the step motor, it retracts ok but the connector doesn’t fit correctly. Proceeding on with the troubleshooting guide, it just doesn’t work right, either with the motor power correctly hooked up or even reversed. The troubleshooting guide says it is a defective module. But the module is brand new. I can’t even try the “last man out” feature of the guide because I can’t get the step in the right position to try it. Have I just got a defective board, or did I buy the wrong board? Any advice would be welcomed. Dave Jones

I posted this a while ago and got no response, so I thought I would post it here. Someone posted recently that they had a slow moving bedroom slide and the solution was the wires connected to the motor were burned up or loose, and fixing it solved the problem. Easy-Peesy solution, right?😉 Their motor was at the top of their battery compartment. Well, that's not where it is for my 2005 HR Scepter. I am looking for the curb side rear slideout motor. Anyone know where it is? Dave Jones

Someone posted recently that they had a slow moving bedroom slide and the solution was the wires connected to the motor were burned up or loose, and fixing it solved the problem. Easy-Peesy solution, right?😉 Their motor was at the top of their battery compartment. Well, that's not where it is for my 2005 HR Scepter. I am looking for the curb side rear slideout motor. Anyone know where it is? Dave Jones

Please help me understand something. East coast feed gives you network programs (CBS, ABC, etc.) emanating from New York or maybe Washington, West coast emanating from San Francisco? And on the respective east or west coast time? When away from home (MN) I can always get the Dish Satellite and the channels included in my subscription, but network news, etc is always a local channel which I can't see until I register my new location with Dish. With the direct feed being discussed, if I had direct feed the network choices along with whatever subscription stations I subscribed to would be available (at CA ot NY times) as soon as the satellite connected. Would it include PBS, or is that not a network? Thanks for helping me understand. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I am shopping for new rv tires - 295/80R22.5, and ran across an add for motorhometires.com. They offer free mobile installation anywhere. I wanted Toyo M144's with new date codes. They said they can get them only one month old, which is great. Regarding mobile installation, I didn't want remote installation as I wanted my tires balanced with lead weights and I don't think they can do that remotely, but maybe they can? What they proposed to me is to use balancing "beans", and I have often heard of balancing this way. I have heard some people have had problems with valve stems/Schrader valves getting clogged up using them. I do use Tire pressure monitors, and want to avoid any problems with them because of using balancing beans. What are folks opinions of this offering? I don't have prices yet (sending me an email in a couple of hours).Thanks for your views.Dave Jones2005 HR Scepter

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll stop drill the crack, seal it and then put eternabond on top. Sounds pretty easy. Dave

I recently noticed a crack in the roof above the driver's seat of my 2005 HR Scepter, and I am looking for some advice on how to repair it. It doesn't seem to widen when pressed on, so I am guessing it doesn't go all the way through the fiberglass. I could repair it in a variety of ways, since much of the area over the driver can't be seen from the ground. I suppose I could just put a streak of roof sealant over it, regardless of the color. I could use a paintbrush and some roof sealant and expand the size of the white part of the roof, sealing the crack in the process. I could put a strip of the tape-like roof sealant over it. Or I could take it to a body shop and spend a few grand having it refinished - not my favorite option. Here are some photos of it. The 3 close-ups are of the same crack, just showing it a little differently. The white arrow just shows where the crack is. You can't see it, but it looks like the crack happened at the edge of a rectangular plate or something, as there is a faint line not damaging the roof about 6 inches further curbside. Thanks for your ideas. Dave Jones

It sounds like the honk is coming from the brake treadle, and only honks as I apply the brakes.

I felt the same way about the honk, and doubt that it is causing the pulling to the right, but wanted to detail the whole situation in case someone else sees it differently. Thanks for the response. Dave

It honks when stationary, too.

Where, when?

My 2005 HR Scepter has some brake issues. Some history: When I step on the brakes, sometimes they honk like a goose. Faster, harder application of the brakes honks louder. An IRV2 forum discussion of a similar issue identified the problem as a quick release valve or exhaust port, but the discussion was for a noise when the brakes were released, not applied. It could be the same issue and solution – I don’t know. I have lived with it for more than a year as it didn’t seem to cause a problem and the IRV2 discussion implied it was only a sound issue and not dangerous (they said replacing the air brake valve solved the noise issue). But I didn’t realize until now that I have noise on applying the brakes, the IRV2 discussion talked about noise when releasing the brake pedal. Lately (6 to 8 months, 4000 miles) the brakes have started pulling to the right – sometimes a lot, sometimes minimally, when I apply them. It pulls more the harder the brakes are applied. You can feel it through the steering wheel that it is the front brakes/wheels causing the pulling issue. But driving is still quite manageable. Maybe if there is less honking noise they pull less, not sure about that. The coach has disk front brakes, so slack adjusters aren’t the problem as it doesn’t have them. I don’t know it the honking noise is even related to the pulling issue. I am stymied, and could sure use some advice. I would appreciate any feedback the forum can offer. Thanks, Dave Jones

My 2005 HR Scepter has some brake issues. Some history: When I step on the brakes, sometimes they honk like a goose. Faster, harder application of the brakes honks louder. An IRV2 forum discussion of a similar issue identified the problem as a quick release valve or exhaust port, but the discussion was for a noise when the brakes were released, not applied. It could be the same issue and solution – I don’t know. I have lived with it for more than a year as it didn’t seem to cause a problem and the IRV2 discussion implied it was only a sound issue and not dangerous (they said replacing the air brake valve solved the noise issue). But I didn’t realize until now that I have noise on applying the brakes, the IRV2 discussion talked about noise when releasing the brake pedal. Lately (6 to 8 months, 4000 miles) the brakes have started pulling to the right – sometimes a lot, sometimes minimally, when I apply them. It pulls more the harder the brakes are applied. You can feel it through the steering wheel that it is the front brakes/wheels causing the pulling issue. But driving is still quite manageable. Maybe if there is less honking noise they pull less, not sure about that. The coach has disk front brakes, so slack adjusters aren’t the problem as it doesn’t have them. I don’t know it the honking noise is even related to the pulling issue. I am stymied, and could sure use some advice. I would appreciate any feedback the forum can offer. Thanks, Dave Jones

I like keeping up with things, and the daily is fine except for Scotty's daily post which, to me, not very useful Please don't take this as criticism - I really appreciate all that Scotty had done and continues to do. But I get this every day, which is pretty hard to digest.: Monacoers Daily Digest Apr 4th 2020, 06:34 Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|* To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/13-monacoers-daily-digest/

I use bearing buddies on my boat trailer and do give it a shot of grease each season. Your comment is good advice, and maybe this year I will pull the brake drums off and inspect things. But please don't confuse bearing buddies with a Demko system. The grease fittings on the Demko are to grease the kingpins and bushings, and the tie rod ends. The wheel bearings never get greased as they are a sealed bearing.

I've been using tow dollies for 16 years. I've had them with no brakes, hydraulic brakes and surge brakes. Don't go with no brakes, but hydraulic and surge brakes work well. I had a Master Tow for many years, and now have a 10 year old Demko Car Kaddy that I bought used. They all work, but I found the Demko was more of a problem when loading low cars (specifically a couple of Lexuses) as the front body of the cars (the body part that scrapes the raised concrete ends of some parking stalls) would sometimes snag on the dolly during loading and unloading and caused some minor body damage. I installed 2x10's under the vehicle tire area on the dolly and no longer have a problem, but still load and unload slowly to control bouncing. Maybe newer ones no longer have that problem. The Master Tow did not have that problem, although clearances were close with them,too. The Master Tow wheel bearings require removing the wheel and brake drum to repack. My Demko uses a sealed maintenance free wheel bearing, but does have zerk fittings that you lube with a grease gun (a whole lot easier) occasionally. Both of my dollies came with bias ply tires that last about 15,000 miles. I have had to replace fenders on both brands due to blowouts. NEVER go without tire pressure monitors for the dolly!! They have saved my butt 3 times in over 140,000 miles. I now use radial tires and they seem to hold up better. As I recall, the Master Tow lights did not have replaceable light bulbs, so you had to buy a whole new light if it burned out. The Demko is probably a little heavier, i.e., a bit harder to move - but it does have a folding 3rd wheel on the tongue to facilitate moving it around. Have I ever wished I had a vehicle that could be towed 4 down? Yes, but I have never had one over 5 vehicles and 16 years, so I have never had to buy 5 different base plates, braking systems and maybe transmission/drive shaft gadgets to allow towing 4 down. It is more hassle to use a dolly (but not a lot), but it is certainly cheaper and more flexible. I can tow most vehicles. I think I have had to park my dolly away from my camping site 3 or 4 times over 16 years, and never had to pay to park it. So, dollies are perfectly workable but maybe tow bars are easier - don't know, never had one. Hope this info is useful.

I recently realized that with Dish I can change my local channels online rather than phone them (which, with the pandemic, can easily take 15 minutes before you reach a human.) You need to have your dish locked on to the satellite, then go to Dish's website (https://my.dish.com/myaccount/dishoutdoors) and follow their process. You need to get your location code off your TV screen and enter it online. Boom, you are done! It was quick to give me my local channels. I was impressed. Had Direct TV years ago, wouldn't go back!!!

Switch to Dish!

Wow. Thanks for all the tips and pricing on Michelin vs. Toyo tires. I can see that Toyos could be a couple hundred bucks cheaper per tire if I can get them in the twin cities in Minnesota. I did ask online from one place but got no response so far but with all the turmoil and closed places, maybe it will still happen. Thanks again, folks. Stay safe! Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

I am facing the replacement of all my tires on my 2005 HR Scepter soon. It takes 295x80R22.5 tires, It has Michelin XVA Energy tires right now, and I am looking for replacements. I had great luck with Totos on a previous coach, as well as Michelin XVA Energy tires, so I am considering both. I belonged to FMCA and Monaco International (MI) when I bought the Michelins with MI's discount program. So, I am interested in the FMCA/MI current discount program (is it worth the cost to sign up with them?), and I am interested in which tire to buy. Michelin has 3 RV tires in 295x80R22.5 size (X® COACH HL Z, X® MULTIWAY 3D XZE®, and XZA2® ENERGY (what I currently have).] I can't find a Toyo tire in that size, so maybe Toyo is out of consideration? Any thoughts or comments? Can anyone tell me what the FMCA/MI prices are? Dave Jones

Sorry if this is a duplicate. I tried to edit my pics and everything disappeared. A few weeks ago I was reading a discussion, maybe of this forum or maybe elsewhere, about replacing the 3.25" puck lights mounted to the underside of their cabinets with LED lights (see pictures). Then, as sometimes happens with computers, the discussion closed before I could establish what LED lights were good or not so good for this application, and I couldn't find the discussion again. Someone had posted that the non-dimmable versions would still dim about 50%. I'd love to get a discussion going about the current 12 volt heat generating lights and what to replace them with. Dave Jones 2005 HR Scepter

Gee, thanks, Tom. I'll have to study the info now. I appreciate your advice. Dave Jones