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Sani-con 600S


Brett63
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How many have replaced the factory Sani-con 400s macerator with the new 600S macerator and did you use existing switch and coach wireing or did you run new heavier wire straight from the batts to the Sani-con supplied toggle switch?

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Brett:

We were a Sani Con dealer up till 2 months ago so did a lot of installations. I always ran 10 gauge wire back to the battery bay and included a 30 amp re-settable fuse. 

I do want to say we dropped the sani con line not because of quality issues but Thetfords new pricing structure which wiped out half our margins. The sani con turbo systems are the best on the market for macerators. When they went to the new pricing program I felt it wasn't worth our time to deal with them any more. At one time we moved more sani con systems then any other dealer in the country.

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Currently I just wired the original plug from the coach harness to the sani-con switch and am using exisiting coach harness for power. Basically wired through the factory switch to the sani-con switch. I don't get under the coach if it is not on jack stands. I am too big, and there is no room if the bags dump for some reason. 

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On 8/30/2021 at 9:14 PM, Brett63 said:

How many have replaced the factory Sani-con 400s macerator with the new 600S macerator and did you use existing switch and coach wireing or did you run new heavier wire straight from the batts to the Sani-con supplied toggle switch?

You will have to check what is currently in your system. Monaco did NOT always follow the manufacturers wiring schematic or fuse recommendations. I upgraded my "plain" Sanicon on my Camelot to the higher performance pump. That required the addition of a Bosch 87 Relay as the Monaco switch was only rated for maybe 15 amps and the newer motor called for 20.  Even Sanicon did not pick up in their instructions when I called that the common switches were inadequate.

If you visit the Thetford/Sanicon site and compare the 400S to the 600S, they have the SAME OEM switch and wiring configurations. BOTH are 35 Amps.

https://www.thetford.com//wp-content/uploads/2017/08/97573E-OI-SaniCon600.pdf    Scroll down to Page 4.... That shows the "CB" and the Relay and the switch and such...  It also has the wiring requirements....and the 400 and 600 are identical...

NOW....what did Monaco use....I haven't a clue. HOWEVER, Sanicon included in the OEM package a #10 Wiring setup or Hookup pigtail and a 35 Amp Bosch Relay....as well as a 35 Amp circuit breaker (not a fuse).  You can look on either one and the electrics are the same. IF you go beyond 18 Ft on the primary battery (or connection point) to the relay, then you will need to upgrade the wire to #8 as the voltage drop will be too high.

There is a WHITE PAPER (from the venacular of the old site) or File here that has my writeup on the upgrade. The SAME circuit is used by Sanicon, so if you want a detailed description of how to do the wiring....that is there....you only have to update the wiring.  NOW....PROBLEM...you will have to find a Terminal Strip mount for the relay as most of the 5 pin sockets you find are #12...  That is why the OEM package has the correct wiring.  The switch box (with relay) is a replacement part, so you could purchase the entire kit from Sanicon and just use your existing Monaco supplied "on/off" kit.

Not to dispute Chris' dealer experience, I believe that the 35 Amp resettable CB is a better choice (rather than the 30 amp) as that is what Sanicon used in their OEM kits. However, Sanicon used a "auto reset", I believe, CB. I like the Lever Action resettable CB better. Monaco used the T-Tocas style resettable CB...

I also looked at some of the more common "Battery Cable" charts...and the #10 that Sanicon includes is probably marginal....the #8 is good to 40 amps......so the longer the run, the more you need the #8. It is a little meaner to work with. If you are doing the work yourself, then I could purchase a hydraulic crimper...  and you WILL need a terminal strip style base for the relay...that might be challenging....

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Sani-con included an inline 35a fuse. No CB, no relay. An inline fuse and the switch kit with installed high temp disconnect. I have no idea what Monaco ran in 09 or how they ran it. For the couple times I will use it between now and FL when I can block the coach on stands it will be fine. I will then run a dedicated power line from the batts. Not sure that I need a relay or why really, and I may swap the inline 35a fuse for a resettable breaker.

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28 minutes ago, Brett63 said:

Sani-con included an inline 35a fuse. No CB, no relay. An inline fuse and the switch kit with installed high temp disconnect. I have no idea what Monaco ran in 09 or how they ran it. For the couple times I will use it between now and FL when I can block the coach on stands it will be fine. I will then run a dedicated power line from the batts. Not sure that I need a relay or why really, and I may swap the inline 35a fuse for a resettable breaker.

You will need a HIGH Amperage switch. Most of the switches that Monaco used were rated at 15 - 20 amps. That will burn up quickly. You need to check your prints to see if Monaco included a Bosch Relay. The Bosch 87A 5 pin relay is the main stay all over your coach. They come in two sizes.  (or maybe more). They are USUALLY 30 amps, but can be found for 40 amps. You need the 40 amp relay.

If you look at the schematic on the Sanicon site, it will show the relay coil hooked up to the Switch. You energize the relay and that will switch the high current load. In reality, if you know what your salesman's switch looks like, that is the same...

PERSONALLY....and this is MY OPINION, I would do the following...

Run the high current line....you decide....but if you will need a #10 for less than 15 feet of battery cable (to the relay) or #8 as another poster advised.

Purchase a "RATED" Solenoid or High Current Relay.  Amazon has this one...

https://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Solenoid-Relay-Nickel-Plating-Marine/dp/B072MZHK48/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+12+volt+solenoid+relay&qid=1630527555&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUzQzV1I0UTZCMjZNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI4Nzc5WUI4UzBYMDdMR1RBJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNjM4MzgxRllOVjlEN0NGSEVWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

It is their Max 300A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay Nickel-Plating For Golf Carts,Winch, Marine In Rush 12VDC

It is a SIMPLE relay....like the one that you use on a golf cart. It is rated at 300Amp...which is a FARCE. It will run 24X7 if you keep the current below 80 amps....so 35 is a piece of cake...  $19.00.  

Purchase a 40 Amp T-Tocas (sp) resettable circuit breaker for it to protect the line between the battery and the Solenoid.

Then steal the leads from the Sanicon Switch....connect them to the small terminals. You have a heavy duty switch controlled by the original Sanicon Switch....your are good to go and SAFE...and reliable.  You can get precut cables with terminals to fit on it......same as is used on a winch on a vehicle. This is the easiest way to install.....ASSUMING THAT MONACO DID NOT INCLUDE A RELAY.

Good Luck...

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9/1/2021 at 3:18 AM, throgmartin said:

Brett:

We were a Sani Con dealer up till 2 months ago so did a lot of installations. I always ran 10 gauge wire back to the battery bay and included a 30 amp re-settable fuse. 

I do want to say we dropped the sani con line not because of quality issues but Thetfords new pricing structure which wiped out half our margins. The sani con turbo systems are the best on the market for macerators. When they went to the new pricing program I felt it wasn't worth our time to deal with them any more. At one time we moved more sani con systems then any other dealer in the country.

Do you know a good place to buy one of these systems online? Can't find  a dealer in the Seattle area

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