No dash switches work

[Brett63]

Went to start the coach a few minutes ago and have no dash switch, door switch or passenger seat switches that are operational. Yes I have a chassis multiplex coach. Coach started right up and house batts are up. We have been on shore power for 3 weeks. 

I have 13.3v on all + lugs in the front run bay so I know power is getting there. But what would go down sitting plugged in to shore power that controls all dash switches? 

I know there are a couple good chassis multiplex people on here....lol

[Brett63]

Well after talking to Chris at M&M it appears I now have a proverbial boat anchor. He can't trouble shoot over the phone, they can't work on it if they come to FL in the winter, they are working on plug and play repair compenents for the Kongsberg MUX, but they are not there yet and don't have a time line and I can't drive anywhere without any lights, turns, brakes, wipers or dash controls of any type....

I honestly don't know what to do or even where to turn to now. This is our home. 

[Ivylog]

Boy, this sucks. While I understand how a multiplex system works… have no idea about the chassis  system’s components. Any chance the lights (power) in the round trailer plug on the hitch works?

Ofen problems with the house multiplex system were poor grounds. I would unhook and plug back in every connection I could find on the components, making sure it was firmly re-connected after checking for any corrosion.

Edited September 29, 2021 by Ivylog

[Gary Cole]

Might try disconnecting all 12V power for at least a minute. The reason that works so very often with electronic components is that over time capacitors, little batteries,  can and usually do acquire a charge and remain at that incorrect state due to  numerous reasons including accumulated software glitches. Disconnecting the power gives all capacitors sufficient time to discharge so that the system can restart from the boot command. Might be a long shot but it costs nothing to try. That is the reason tech support most always ask you if you have tried unplugging your tv or your blue tooth toaster first. 

Edited September 29, 2021 by Gary Cole

[Frank McElroy]

Check fuse VCA-5.  This is on the FRB large PCB and is labeled Eaton switches.

[Brett63]

I have disconnected all power and I mean all power...lol I have checked the VCA-5 fuse. 

According to M&M there are two master switch pods and the rest are slaves. The two masters are the gen start/stop and the mirror select. Chris said that becasue they are all very delicate to power fluctuations and becasue my house batts ran down he suspects either one of the masters or one of the slaves (can I even talk like this anymore) anyway one of the switch pods has died and is not letting anything work. There are no replacements. He did say they are working as we speak to design and develop plug and play parts for the MUX system, but as of right now there is nothing I can send them and nothing they can send me. They did say that they had two MUX coaches there that sounded like they were the test coaches for their development. There was no timeframe, he just said check back through the winter. He also said that if I was there they may be far enough on the project they could get me going.......BUT without any lights of anykind, trun, brake, headlighs, steeringwheel functions....etc there is no way to drive.

In the mean time I am going through each switch pod and removing and unplugging then checking with the pod out of the system in hopes I run into the bad one and can just leave it removed from the system. But that is a WAG as to whether that would even work, and then if it was one of the two masters it wouldn't matter. 

I honestly have no clue what to do or even where to turn, but it appears the answer to both is nothing and nowhere. 

I have a coach warranty, but without a fix there is nothing to warrant.

[Brett63]

Well after a few hard days of troubleshooting in every manner known to man it appears that I have even stumped the man..........Frank McIlroy......We have worked this issue to the end of the world. Still have nothing working on the front half of the chassis multiplex as it pertains to no dash switches work at all. 

All I can say is that I have learned a ton about this coach and the chacssis multiplex system. I can tell you how things are wired, where the wires go, ho to test them all, how the system works and everything else about it. Frank and I can tell you everything NOT causing the issue but we cannot tell you what IS causing the issue.

I can't say thank you to Frank enough, even though this appears to be beating us. It is not for a lack of trying and Mr Frank has been there everytime I have needed to help guide me and confirm my thoughts.

[Frank McElroy]

1 hour ago, Brett63 said:

Well after a few hard days of troubleshooting in every manner known to man it appears that I have even stumped the man..........Frank McIlroy......We have worked this issue to the end of the world. Still have nothing working on the front half of the chassis multiplex as it pertains to no dash switches work at all. 

All I can say is that I have learned a ton about this coach and the chacssis multiplex system. I can tell you how things are wired, where the wires go, ho to test them all, how the system works and everything else about it. Frank and I can tell you everything NOT causing the issue but we cannot tell you what IS causing the issue.

I can't say thank you to Frank enough, even though this appears to be beating us. It is not for a lack of trying and Mr Frank has been there everytime I have needed to help guide me and confirm my thoughts.

Brett, thanks for the kind words. 

The good news is that at least the coach can be driven in daytime with the stop, signal, and smart wheel controls working.  And we also know that both CCM modules communicate to the engine databus.

You traced all wiring on the dash switch wiring harness to the CCM and it shows continuity, no shorts and all the modules are receiving proper power and good grounds. Right now about the only thing left are two bad master rocker switch modules that could have both failed when the batteries went dead.

I know on Monday you will be calling potential suppliers for at least one replacement master module to be sure that's the problem.  About a year ago, I know REV in Oregon was able to program replacement master and expansion Eaton E30 multiplex dash switch modules. 

Your other option is to find a truck repair shop with the Kongsberg CADET software to verify that the CCM module is good.  This software will allow the operator to operate the dash switch functions through the CCM diagnostic port.

[Brett63]

 

I talked to REV (Coberg) today and they have no more switches and to their knowledge there are none anywhere to be had unless you find a salvage.

They also told me that at the moment they afe very limited in what they can do with the Kongsburg system, but are working through some issues or something that is stpping them. They said if you could find switches that worked they could send them to M&M for proper programming. BUT if you had masters that didn't work, you are out of luck as M&M has not figured out how to repair or manufacture new ones. M&M told me the same thing.

So now I sit in FL with a boat anchor unless someone else has discovered something new that we don't know about.

[Ivylog]

I would add a row of high amp 12V switches and find the large wires (after the multiplex relays) that go to the lights you need and power them from the new switches.

 The brake lights  probably work when you supply the ground, so no switch needed for them, just power to the circuit.

I would just power the wipers on when needed and use RainX so one speed will be enough.

Edited October 4, 2021 by Ivylog

[Brett63]

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

I would add a row of high amp 12V switches and find the large wires (after the multiplex relays) that go to the lights you need and power them from the new switches.

 The brake lights  probably work when you supply the ground, so no switch needed for them, just power to the circuit.

I would just power the wipers on when needed and use RainX so one speed will be enough.

I have determined that the brake and turn all work as well as the smart wheel as I have removed it from the multiplex in the past. Technically I can drive it during the day. But with no repairs there really is no place to take it to.

[Ivylog]

Powering the headlights and clearance lights should be fairly easy so you can go on with your life as full timers. M&M got into the Intellitec multiplex repair because they had a customer with problems. Hopefully they will do the same with the chassis multiplex…sounds like they are working on it.

[Gary Cole]

I like the idea of installing a row of switches. In addition you might give some consideration to installing remote control relays in parallel with the switches so as to have manual override capability. The relay units are available with up to 12 channels with both digital and analog outputs if needed for about $50.00. You could use either RF control or bluetooth. Bluetooth offers device pairing along with a lot of control and programming options including using a cell phone app. You can use multiple RF remotes so long as you match frequencies. Multiple remotes would offer control in any location in your RV. I've installed 3 of these systems including one which I use to control both the lighting, air filtration and dust control system in my shop. I use the analog outputs to control motor speed using VFDs however with compatible driver matching the outputs could be used to dim LED lights.

I would do whatever it took to rid myself of such a system which seems to delight in taking hostages at the least opportune moment.

Good luck