Jump to content

Extending/re-running 110v system wiring. Code compliant methods?


Recommended Posts

I am redesigning the electrical system in our 2000 Windsor 32PB, including how the 110v system works.

Our coach has the generator and shore power run to the central basement (interrior) where the transfer switch is. This is also where the inverter/charger is located to. The 110 wiring goes from the transfer switch to the main panel. Then, a smaller gauge wire runs from the main panel back to the power basement to the inverter, then back to the inverter 110 sub panel in the rear.

My plan is the run the transfer switch output to the Multip-plus II, then use the runs back to the 110 panels to power the pannels, removing the return romex from the mix. Ill also be taking the inverter breakers out of the main panel. The Multi-plus II has the ability to handle 50amp split phase in an impressive manner.

My challeng is that the wire from the transfer switch to the main panel is about 1'-2' too short. Given that it is 110/240, I believe Polaris connectors are the right way to extend these if I am unable to re-run the wire. This is an internal cavity with no access to the outside except a slide over panel in the passthrough.

Any experience with this?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm no electrician, but I HATE the romex they use in these coaches (and anywhere else).  When you look up "cheap" in the dictionary, you'll see a picture of romex cable.  I've strung plenty of wires, and I ALWAYS use flexible metal conduit.  Best thing since sliced bread.  You can even get it pre-strung with wire.

But then that's just my personal preference.  That and a quarter won't get you a cup-o-java.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve done exactly what your wanting to do. But pulled the romex out and ran longer. 
 

My coach is obviously different set up. But I used carflex 1” and drilled a few holes to run it so romex was protected. Also added a lithium battery and Dc/Dc charger 

4099A0B2-6D11-43C4-AFE3-B59795807011.jpeg

5F0A7F99-E128-47CC-88CC-FABABA241C08.jpeg

0C79354F-ED54-462E-8C80-2E6B0F10A929.jpeg

329C3E05-EF81-4DF8-8C8C-1C33681E2FBB.jpeg

807E79E5-D5B1-45D5-BF97-52928205BE9B.jpeg

46675CFA-4CF1-4E07-8808-DAFEF774A6B9.jpeg

3FECEA19-66E6-4480-9B69-3F5BF867E32A.jpeg

2DBA14B3-1ED9-433A-B6CA-9BCE866C60D3.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, Bjohnsonmn said:

I am redesigning the electrical system in our 2000 Windsor 32PB, including how the 110v system works.

Our coach has the generator and shore power run to the central basement (interrior) where the transfer switch is. This is also where the inverter/charger is located to. The 110 wiring goes from the transfer switch to the main panel. Then, a smaller gauge wire runs from the main panel back to the power basement to the inverter, then back to the inverter 110 sub panel in the rear.

My plan is the run the transfer switch output to the Multip-plus II, then use the runs back to the 110 panels to power the pannels, removing the return romex from the mix. Ill also be taking the inverter breakers out of the main panel. The Multi-plus II has the ability to handle 50amp split phase in an impressive manner.

My challeng is that the wire from the transfer switch to the main panel is about 1'-2' too short. Given that it is 110/240, I believe Polaris connectors are the right way to extend these if I am unable to re-run the wire. This is an internal cavity with no access to the outside except a slide over panel in the passthrough.

Any experience with this?

Thanks!

Put a junction box at the connection to keep it protected and meet code. Don't mess with the grounding wire. Don't want to electrify the body.

Gary 05 AMB DST

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, CorinthWest said:

I'm no electrician, but I HATE the romex they use in these coaches (and anywhere else).  When you look up "cheap" in the dictionary, you'll see a picture of romex cable.  I've strung plenty of wires, and I ALWAYS use flexible metal conduit.  Best thing since sliced bread.  You can even get it pre-strung with wire.

But then that's just my personal preference.  That and a quarter won't get you a cup-o-java.

I agree. Solid conductor romex is barely adequate for a house. Much less a moving vibrating vehicle. I have replaced every 15/20 A romex cable  which I have access to with mc cable w/ stranded conductors including any new wiring projects. I no longer follow the code however as I understand it many local authorities no longer adopt the NFPA article relating to RVs so NFPA 551 no longer applies. Which means that there is no applicable NEC code as applied to RVs. Maybe someone here knows more about it. If so heavy duty oil/water resistant 12 ga, fine strand conductor ( machine tool rated designed for flexibility), extension cord would be my first choice. Available at your neighborhood hardware stores everywhere and cheap. Let me find my sunglasses before I get flamed. 😄

Edited by Gary Cole
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...