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2009 Monaco 41SKQ wiring diagram


Paulxx

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Greetings all,

I am seeking a wiring diagram for a 2009 Monaco Knight 41SKQ. I contacted REV parts and they dont have one. If anyone has one they could share I would be super grateful. Also be grateful for any suggestions on other sources I could contact for one.  Thanks much!  Paul

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Frank, thank you kindly for sharing the diagram on 2007 models. I have downloaded it as it is at least a start. I had my alternator replaced recently with a delco and am having issues with an alternator fail code. The new alternator is producing the expected voltage and Im thinking it was mis wired. The guys doing the work are scratching their heads and are asking me for an electrical diagram.

If I am lucky enough to find a 2009 one I will certainly share it with you

Regards Paul

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6 hours ago, Paulxx said:

Greetings all,

I am seeking a wiring diagram for a 2009 Monaco Knight 41SKQ. I contacted REV parts and they dont have one. If anyone has one they could share I would be super grateful. Also be grateful for any suggestions on other sources I could contact for one.  Thanks much!  Paul

I have 2009 drawings from REV. It’s supposed to cover all 09 Knights. I specifically asked for my 09 Knight 38PKQ but got like 150+ drawings which if memory serves me it had other Knights in it. Unfortunately I’m in a very bad cell and internet service area. I can attempt to upload to website and or email them. I’ve had better luck sharing thru Facebook messenger. I have Franks email and I ll try there first.

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3 minutes ago, Gary M said:

I have 2009 drawings from REV. It’s supposed to cover all 09 Knights. I specifically asked for my 09 Knight 38PKQ but got like 150+ drawings which if memory serves me it had other Knights in it. Unfortunately I’m in a very bad cell and internet service area. I can attempt to upload to website and or email them. I’ve had better luck sharing thru Facebook messenger. I have Franks email and I ll try there first.

Thanks Gary.  If you are able to upload to either the Monacoers downloads or to your Dropbox and send me a link I can handle it from there.

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Gary, thankyou soooo much!

I'm gone next couple weeks and will not be able to take action on my alternator issue so if you get into better internet service and send them that would be great. My email is prichmason@mchsi.com      If you send them to me I will make sure Frank gets them and if you send them to Frank I expect he will forward. Gary, many thanks to you!

Regards Paul

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6 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Thanks Gary.  If you are able to upload to either the Monacoers downloads or to your Dropbox and send me a link I can handle it from there.

I suppose I’ll have to try from a computer. For some reason on my phone (Drive) some of my drawings are now telling me they are protected and only give me a choice to “open with” link but nothing happens.

Always something!!!!

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20 hours ago, Paulxx said:

Gary, thankyou soooo much!

I'm gone next couple weeks and will not be able to take action on my alternator issue so if you get into better internet service and send them that would be great. My email is prichmason@mchsi.com      If you send them to me I will make sure Frank gets them and if you send them to Frank I expect he will forward. Gary, many thanks to you!

Regards Paul

No problem. Some of the drawings are dated for the 07-08 also, With Rev it’s hard to tell what you are getting. I’ve separated them by drawing number and by description of drawing. 217 drawings of which I hope will help. I never could get a dash drawing for mine with the Medallion setup. But I do have the medallion schematics.

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I just uploaded the complete set of wiring diagrams for a 2009 Knight.  Gary - Thank you for sending them to me.

See the instructions when downloading the files.  There is an option to download just the schematic you want or a complete set (217 pages) in one file.

If you want a complete set, click on the title "2009 Knight Wiring Diagrams" and not the area in the link below that says "Download this file".  If you want an individual schematic, click on the "Download this file" link below and select the individual schematic you want to download.

 

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This is as close as we have now.  Probably 95% correct.   Our files section and the search bar are excellent tools …. 

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I have 114 schematics labeled for 07-08 but it maybe same as what Tom posted.

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Thanks Gary ,probably not much difference.

I have been troubleshooting  an issue with starting my Onan Generator. When pushing the starter switch down the solenoid at the back keeps clicking and takes forever to start .

i can use my boost switch inside and it doesn’t click and will start right up.

I’ve replaced the solenoid twice but doesn’t help, also replaced the relay delay up front.

seems the little purple wire on the solenoid is not getting 12 volts.  Ot sure here the orgin of that wire is.

 Thanks 

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19 minutes ago, Hubert wells said:

Thanks Gary ,probably not much difference.

I have been troubleshooting  an issue with starting my Onan Generator. When pushing the starter switch down the solenoid at the back keeps clicking and takes forever to start .

i can use my boost switch inside and it doesn’t click and will start right up.

I’ve replaced the solenoid twice but doesn’t help, also replaced the relay delay up front.

seems the little purple wire on the solenoid is not getting 12 volts.  Ot sure here the orgin of that wire is.

 Thanks 

I could be wrong but my understanding of the relay/delay is to send voltage to charge batts. Where is the purple wire?

Solenoid at back of coach or generator?

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1 hour ago, Gary M said:

I could be wrong but my understanding of the relay/delay is to send voltage to charge batts. Where is the purple wire?

Solenoid at back of coach or generator?

It’s one of the small terminals on the front left side of the solenoid that’s above the batteries . I’m thinking it goes up front on left side where the bi directional relay delay is .  I don’t really understand how it works but if I put a 12 volt jumper to it then the generator will start with out the solenoid clicking 

Also  all my batteries charge just fine whether driving or hooked to shore power .

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2 hours ago, Hubert wells said:

It’s one of the small terminals on the front left side of the solenoid that’s above the batteries . I’m thinking it goes up front on left side where the bi directional relay delay is .  I don’t really understand how it works but if I put a 12 volt jumper to it then the generator will start with out the solenoid clicking 

Also  all my batteries charge just fine whether driving or hooked to shore power .

Not an expert, but would offer this based on different issues and finally fixing something simple.  I would be looking for a loose or corroded connection, probably the positive, but don’t count out the negative.  I had an issue that drove me crazy….could pull out my battery trays and the generator would start easily, but close and it was iffy.  So…without all the technical jargon.  Your boost switch is giving you a higher voltage and the Genny is starting.  I’m a bit perplexed at the purple wire and what it is doing and where it goes.  I would make sure that the basics are in place.  I had to jump the Genny off several times until I did some terminal cleaning.  The battery boost didn’t help…but it cranked great with Jumper cables.  I pulled the prints from the 2007.  Look at Drawing 38071127.  There is a 2 Gage wire going to the front. That is PROBABLY the Generator power. I could not find what Monaco typically called the "High Current" drawing, but the fuses and the cables match what is there.  THAT cable is or should be the MAIN power to the Genny's Battery Cables located on the back rear side....as you shinny under... 

Start at the Genny.  I did this all on a trip with common hand tools.  Loosen the two battery cables on the back.  Turn or rotate them side to side to or twist them to burnish or polish then terminals.  Pull off if needed.  Now retighten.  BE ADVISED…they are Copper Studs and not steel.  Respect them.  If you LOOSEN first, rather than just, give it a hard turn, you will be OK.  A tip from an expert who sheared his off.  Now, try to start….  After each step, do the normal start.

Next….follow the positive.  It is a fairly short lead to where the main power cable from the rear comes.  Do the same trick, loosen, burnish and polish and retighten…remove and clean based on visual.  I also took a can of battery corrosion spray and would lightly spray each stud as I cleaned or burnished.

Next up, chase the Negative.  It goes forward and up and is typically on a chassis member in front in the compartment.  Some other grounds like the hydraulic slide and maybe the dash ground might be on it.  Never hurts to have a proper ground.

Your Diplomat may be different.  Look at the prints or the high current one.  There will be, I suspect a fuse that it goes to.  Pull or inspect it.  That was NOT my issue. The buss that feeds (probably your House bank cranks it) has the fuse on one side and then your main cable to the bank.  Inspect…

Next is where mine was bad.  I had a bad GROUND from the House bank to the chassis stud.  Was showing good charging and such….but that bad connection actually showed righ resistance when I ohmed the negative on the house to another ground or to the chassis battery negative terminal.  So…that was it. I removed or burnished BOTH the Chassis and the House grounds (behind the battery box) and burnished and then retightened and sprayed.  Worked like a charm since then.

This sounds long….but you need to start upfront and work your way back…a lot of vibrations and grease and whatever after 14 years.  Total time was less than 45 minutes.  

Good luck

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7 minutes ago, Hubert wells said:

Thanks Tom 

You are welcome.  I did a little more digging.  Look at my post again. I found the drawing that show the Genny Cable....not very well labeled....but it is probably it.  You MIGHT look at the Positive Cable from the Genny to the next terminal or connection. Chase that....it MAY go up front....so, if so, then follow it and verify the cleanliness of the connections. I can't find a better print on that....whatever...you need to find the cable that starts at the front and goes to the rear and then make sure all connections along the way are OK. You seem to have a VOLTAGE Drop in that cable. BUT, when you put GOOD or full 12 VDC to it....it starts...

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