Plastic Arm Rest Bezels

[Dennis H]

Hello all... Since Monaco, and many others, use plastic dash and arm rest bezels, they break eventually. On my coach, the D/S bezel houses the parking brake so when you push or pull to set it you have a tendency to use the finger and thumb to push/pull. There is nothing but open space below that switch so the plastic eventually breaks. Cheapest replacement I found was about $300, so here's what I did.

I removed all the screws and raised the bezel. I then marked all the switch wires and removed the switches one at a time, removed the shifter box and the mirror adjustment. Next I removed the bezel. I should say I removed all five pieces!

A trip to a local metals dealer netted me a piece of aluminum sheet stock of sufficient length and width to fit under my drawing. Cost- $3.84.

I then carefully assembled the broken bezel onto the sheet stock. Once that was complete, it was a simply a matter of cutting out a template of the broken bezel. Check to ensure the switches will still fit the openings when complete. Finish the edges with fine sandpaper and you're ready for the next step.

Using a good glue, (I used JB Weld) lather up the back side of the bezel and carefully place it onto the cut and sanded sheet stock. Let dry overnight.

Reinstall the finished product in the coach. I now have a solid bezel that I don't ever have to worry about breaking. Total cost was $3.84 ! For those who don't possess the cutting skills or patience to do so, a machine shop or water cutting outfit can do it for you for about $75.

There's several ways to cut the holes...I used a Dremel with a straight edge but you could also use a fine toothed saber saw. I worried about the thickness hindering the ears on the switches so I simply made the holes a little larger so the switches lock into the plastic. It was easier too...!

I used a piece of aluminum, .075" thick. If you notice, I cut the openings square around the rectangular cutouts for the switches. This way the switches snap into the plastic bezel so the thickness of the aluminum does not come into play. What did make the biggest difference is how solid it made the rear portion that holds the E Brake. Also, remember the E Brake attaches to the underside of the bezel as there's nothing but empty space below it....Dennis

[miacasa_2000]

Dennis  Crazy you just posted this as I also just did mine 2 weeks ago I used scrap sign material I got from local sign shop. 4 years ago I did the radio one because I was changing out the radio. Anyway the sign material is 1/4" thick a moldable hard rubber sandwiched between 2 aluminum sheets. All standard wood working tools sabre saw, router etc. are all you need. The stuff is super strong enough to hold the larger radio all by itself and like you said the E brake is now solid.    

[quick_tox]

Finished today replacing mine with 1/4" solid walnut.