LCD error code E7 on new Dometic AC unit zone 3

[Pduggs]

You may recall I had all three AC units with heat pump replaced in January by a dealer in Florida. Of course the dealer couldn’t get my Aqua-hot to work properly with the new CCC2 thermostat, but thanks to Frank and Tom I got it working.
 

Well now the rear AC unit quit working with error code E7, lost of electrical power.  I know this has been discussed a number of times over the years here and on IRV2. I tried several things that were discussed, but no success. The other two units work.
 

Things I tried…cycled the circuit breaker on and off a few times, shut power off at pedestal and coach disconnect switches, reset thermostat, ran my 10k genset for power, shut off the front two units and just turned on the rear, but still E7 code is triggered every time.

Anybody have any other ideas I can utilize to try an fix this myself?

[Martinvz]

Check that you have 120V power at the A/C. If you have power, then I suggest you call the manufacturer. 
if you do not have power at the A/C then check if you have power at the 120V circuit breakers in the RV breaker panel (possibly in the bedroom). If you do not have then it my be a problem with the load shedding hardware that is behind the cover panel.

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, Pduggs said:

You may recall I had all three AC units with heat pump replaced in January by a dealer in Florida. Of course the dealer couldn’t get my Aqua-hot to work properly with the new CCC2 thermostat, but thanks to Frank and Tom I got it working.
 

Well now the rear AC unit quit working with error code E7, lost of electrical power.  I know this has been discussed a number of times over the years here and on IRV2. I tried several things that were discussed, but no success. The other two units work.
 

Things I tried…cycled the circuit breaker on and off a few times, shut power off at pedestal and coach disconnect switches, reset thermostat, ran my 10k genset for power, shut off the front two units and just turned on the rear, but still E7 code is triggered every time.

Anybody have any other ideas I can utilize to try an fix this myself?

You have a problem with an Intellitec switching device.  The Dynasty has one, sometimes TWO or three devices that will determine WHERE your power is "needed" and they are installed based on Monaco's logic...if you get my drift. They fail, sometimes often...but eventually DO fail.  Here is how it works. Your prints will show them...but the Dynasty Prints (I have been in and out of the 2008 files) lists so many options.  BUT the base is that the Washer Dryer takes priority....so when you try to run the REAR AC....the poor thing just pops back and forth and eventually dies..

If you have other high current devices, you may have MORE.  Only your particular configuration and such will dictate how many.  I THINK I have seen 3...but that might be on a SIg.  The Dynasty and Exec and Sig all use the SAME logic for the W/D and Rear AC...then build on that if had an all electric coach.  OK>>>>here is how it works....

In the case of the REAR AC, the Intellitec (AES PN 00-00714-000) device acts like a transfer switch.  It is (look at your prints) wired with the Washer (Dryer?) as the MAIN or Normally Closed device.  If there is NO current draw on the device...as in the Washer is NOT running, then if there is current draw (turning on the AC), then it detects that and switches to the Rear AC.  People often make the mistake (they were not aware of it) of trying to do laundry (or use some other device) and then the AC will keep switching ON and OFF depending on the cycle. 

These AES are either under the bed or somewhere in the rear area.  They have TWO AC Lines.  The way to test is to take the VOM and check the INCOMING power (should be on the box and you can download the PDF for them).  If you have AC incoming....(from the Rear or maybe marked REAR/WD circuit breaker), then it is PROBABLY the device.  Folks have just abandoned their laundry for a while and used three wire nuts (Yellow) and WITH THE BREAKER OFF....wire nutted or connected the AC directly to the incoming line....

That's it.  Others will have to help you locate it if you can't find it.  @Frank McElroy has the same MH and you can PM offline and he will, as usual, help out.  I learned all this from posting and helping and having him as a tutor....

I copied this from a previous topic.  It explains it way beyond me retyping.

As LONG as you have power on the Circuit Breaker...ODDS ARE...you Intellitec has "bit the dust".  Folks usually replace (Ebay and other online) and THEN write a NOTE to NEVER, EVER Run the Rear AC whilst doing laundry....as the constant recycling causes failure.

Good Luck...

The AES box can be opened and wiring is easily accessible.  You can switch the black primary and secondary wire position and the A/C should work.  No need to move the white or ground wires as they are common.

00-00714-000 For Sale on eBay

Automatic Energy Select Switch
Date datasheet created: 19/04/2013
Intellitec’s Automatic Energy Select Switch (AESS) is designed to be used in RVs to share the power available from a single circuit breaker between two large loads. The AESS applies power to both appliances until the primary load is turned on. It then removes power from the secondary load
to prevent the circuit breaker from being overloaded. This function is particularly useful for sharing power between the microwave oven and another “sheddable” or postpone-able appliance, such as the washer/dryer, or water heater.
Typically, this function has performed with selector switches, forcing the owner to manually switch between the two appliances.
The selecting function is particularly useful when the
microwave oven is the principal load. Power is always available to it, assuring that the customer can use the microwave whenever required and it’s internal clock remains operating. While the microwave is in use, the function of the secondary load is postponed until the microwave is finished.
Features
• Allows two 20 Amp loads to operate from a single 20 Amp breaker
• Automatically switches between the two loads as the demand requires
• Meets NECsection 551-42(c) for adding breakers over the maximum limit of five and allowing for more than two, thermostatically controlled appliances.
• Minimizes circuit breaker tripping.
• Eliminates manual appliance select switches.
AESS OPERATION
The underlying principle of the AESS is that certain appliances used in an RV, such as the microwave
oven, hair dryer, or toaster need to always be available, when the owner wants to use them. These are “on demand” appliances. The use of others, such as the washer/dryer, water heater, or air conditioner can be delayed to a slightly later time with little inconvenience to the owner. These are
postpone-able loads. Postponing the use of these
appliances leaves enough power to operate the “on
demand” appliances.
Power is supplied to the AESS from a single circuit breaker. An “on demand” load is connected as the primary load and a “shed-able” load is connected as the secondary load. When power is applied to the RV, it is supplied to both loads. When the primary load is turned off and at least 45 seconds has
passed, power to the secondary load will be reapplied.
How it works
The Automatic Energy Select Switch controls power to two appliance loads. One appliance on the primary load is connected to the primary output and a shed-able appliance is connected to the secondary output. The output to the secondary load is carried through a relay.
When the shore cord is first plugged in, power flows through the AESS to the primary load and the relay is quickly closed, supplying power to the secondary load. When the primary load is turned off for more than 45 seconds, the power is re-applied to it.

Automatic Energy Select Switch
Date datasheet created:
19/04/2013
Specifications
Part Number: 00-00714-000
Ambient Temperature Range: -40C to +40C
Operating Environment: Out of direct weather
Delay before reapplying power: 45 seconds
Typical Wiring Diagram
Controled Load: One, OEM selectable
Relay Rating: (1) AC - 1 HP, 20A, 120 VAC 60 HZ
U.S. Patents: 4499385, 4617472

[Martinvz]

If your Intellitec is malfunctioning the may be a temporary solution. 
You could disconnect the washer/dryer wire from the breaker panel and connect the rear A/C wire to the washer/dryer breaker. 
This will enable you to run the A/C if the temps make it very uncomfortable. It does make the washer/dryer inoperable until the Intellitec is repaired or replaced. 
M&M manufacture and repair these boards. I found a new board for my coach online. 

[Pduggs]

My AC is still not working and E7 error code still shows up on the thermostat. 

What I did…I tied the three hot, common, and ground wires together using the pictured connectors. Washer and dryer work. Do I need to do the same thing in the Intellitec transfer box above?  See pics.