BP Solar panel and RV-30D Charge Controller

[Mike Wahl]

The solar in our 2001 Signature has stopped working.  We have a BP 90 watt solar panel and a RV-30D charge controller.  This was on my list of items to replace, however it was working putting out 4 to 4.5 amps.  Not enough to cover the new residential refrigerator, however it helped.  I tested the panel input and I'm getting 18 volts.  I also checked the fuses at the battery's and they are both ok.  I get voltage readings from both battery's on the RV-30D controller.  I removed the charge controller and there are not obvious defects, however I'm thinking that it is the issue. 

1. Is there any more testing I can do to verify the charge controller is  the issue?
2. If the charge controller is bad, is there any inexpensive options for the short term.  I have other items I want to get to before working on the solar.
3. Is there an option that I start with a new controller and then build from it in the future, however using the current panel and wiring for now.

 

[vito.a]

I'm trying to understand.  Where and how are you measuring the 4 to 4.5 amps?

You do realize that is all that system will produce?

You could replace the 90-watt panel with a 400-500 watt panel configuration.  The Heliotrope RV-30 is good for up to 30 amps.

However, it's an older PWM charge controller. 

That's not all bad because it splits the charge current to the house and chassis batteries. 

[Mike Wahl]

12 minutes ago, vito.a said:

I'm trying to understand.  Where and how are you measuring the 4 to 4.5 amps?

Sorry I didn't explain it very well.  It was putting out 4 4.5 amps in the past.  Now it is putting out 0.00 amps.

[CAT Stephen]

1 hour ago, Mike Wahl said:

The solar in our 2001 Signature has stopped working.  We have a BP 90 watt solar panel and a RV-30D charge controller.  This was on my list of items to replace, however it was working putting out 4 to 4.5 amps.  Not enough to cover the new residential refrigerator, however it helped.  I tested the panel input and I'm getting 18 volts.  I also checked the fuses at the battery's and they are both ok.  I get voltage readings from both battery's on the RV-30D controller.  I removed the charge controller and there are not obvious defects, however I'm thinking that it is the issue. 

1. Is there any more testing I can do to verify the charge controller is  the issue?
2. If the charge controller is bad, is there any inexpensive options for the short term.  I have other items I want to get to before working on the solar.
3. Is there an option that I start with a new controller and then build from it in the future, however using the current panel and wiring for now.

 

Mike,

You mentioned there is not enough existing Solar to run your refrigerator.  Are you looking to expand your solar array? Or do you just want to repair what you have?  Your factory Solar wiring is limited to 11 amps.  You can substantially increase the voltage by wiring solar panels in series to get the wattage, but you can’t exceed 11 amps.  Are you willing to replace the very limited low power OEM PWM solar controller with a modern and highly efficient MPPT controller?

To isolate your current issue, disconnect the two wires from the solar panel at the PWM controller and measure the amps with a multimeter with full sun. If you get more than 3 amps, then your PWM controller is failed.

if you just want to replace what you have, here is an excellent PWM controller:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Voyager-10A-Waterproof-Controller/dp/B07YXZ68F5

 

Edited August 9, 2023 by CAT Stephen

[TomV48]

1 hour ago, Mike Wahl said:

Sorry I didn't explain it very well.  It was putting out 4 4.5 amps in the past.  Now it is putting out 0.00 amps.

I do not have one of those, but I had to re-solder the major contact strip in one for a friend.  And yes it's only a pwm controller but doggone good piece of hardware because it does charge both battery Banks and the one I worked on had plenty of wire gauge coming into it, like 10ga wire. And going out of it to the batteries too.  Real adequate for 30 amps.  Wound up adding two 100 watt panels in parallel.  Been several years now and still going strong.

[Rocketman3]

In my 2000 Dynasty, I replaced the 85w OEM panel with two 210w panels, and I replaced the Solar Controller Controller) SCC with a Victron mppt 100/30. 
 

After a while, I decided I needed a bit more solar on that array (after adding Starlink 24/7) and was able to match up two 100w panels (in parallel) that together worked well with the other panels. This overpaneled that array, but it helps with more power when the conditions are not just right. (I only lost 12w of power in panel mismatch penalty).

My cables from the roof to the SCC were plenty big, also the cables from the SCC were 8awg - their only issue is they are very long. Which impacts the voltage drop on the wire.

I get 30a of charging for a lot of the day, The last week on the good days - I have been getting 2.6 to 2.8kwh of daily power from that array (400w for 6.5 to 7 hours) - it all depends on clouds…

In my rig because of the OEM wires, that’s as large of a SCC I could put in - keeping the SCC in the same place.

Edited August 9, 2023 by Rocketman3