Prep before applying/re-applying Dicor

[Steve P]

I searched "Dicor" and read most of the 87 hits, and cant found my answer.  I could certainly use some education from the experienced folks here on Monacoer's.... 

I have a white sealant around my ladder, and numerous other places (seam of the roof and rear cap, skylight, A/C's, etc).  It's drying out around the edges where it is thin, and it's flaking in places. I'm not sure how to remove it other than with a plastic scraper, or how to clean the really gray-black sections (Simple green 5:1 mix, or acetone, or??

I also have some areas around my skylight that I repaired several years ago as a newbie with Flex-Tape (cringe... what was I thinking!!).  I don't know what to do about that as it starts to look crustier.  Any suggestions?  There is probably white sealant underneath it in places too. 

By the way, what color is Proflex?

Thanks for the help, 

Steve P

[Steve P]

Examples

[brokenarrow1244]

RV101 -How to Cleaning and Protecting RV Roof-Dicor 

Great short video available that gives easy to follow information.

[96 EVO]

A 'little' heat from a heat gun or hair dryer will help soften it up, and aid in scraping it off with your plastic scrapper.

I use rubbing alcohol for final cleanup before applying fresh Dicor.

 

[brokenarrow1244]

I recommend to review the use of rubbing or denatured alcohol  for a surface preparation. 

Google has a lot of useful information.

Also be careful where to use silicone.

 

[Steve P]

RV101 says denatured alcohol in at least one video on YouTube... 

[Tom Cherry]

This, to me, is really one of those....  Do it with common sense...and there are a myriad of ways and such.  The DiCor site does NOT have the instructions or the installation (Page not available)....  Fantastic Fans had a recall and provided a new dome and all the fixin's to put on the new dome and replace the gasket as well.  

My take is that Alcohol (plain old low percentage rubbing) and a cloth will and was what, memory, Fantastic Fan recommended and they did several installs in their shops and wrote the instructions.

Denaturized alcohol will also work.  Ain't a heck of a lot of difference.

Acetone (Blasphemy) also works...but one has to understand that one must be outside and should not pour a can all over the roof.  I have been fixing seams and recaulking since 2006 and I worked in a boat factory making boats and we had enough Acetone for a massive explosion on site.  We, the grunts, never had an infection in a cut or puncture from a glass fiber impregnated with resin because the Acetone kill all the bacteria...as does alcohol.  I have used acetone to clean off the top surface of where I was going to caulk or recaulk for years.  

Lacquer thinner.  Now that is a little TOO Potent.

Paint Thinner.  NEVER...or at least for me.  It does NOT flash off and dry and you run the risk of the sealer pulling up.  Ever painted over a surface that was clean, and not allowed to air dry for 24 hours with paint thinner.  The result is not pretty...so I would NEVER, not even in a pinch, use it.

The MAIN thing...  Wash all the area with a good cleaner.  I use Simple Green with a small portion of Bleech White (tire cleaner...and potent...but diluted) and a shot of Dawn.  Then thoroughly rinse. IF there is evidence of mold or mildew...I put in maybe 10% Clorox to kill the critters.  AGAIN RINSE.  

After it dries, then one of the above (plain alcohol or such...).  NOW, if it still looks crappy and I am covering the old caulk...I use Acetone....sparingly on a cloth and apply it with that.  For a really deep crevice, I will splash a little on and scrub with a toothbrush or parts cleaner.  I often use a good stiff parts cleaner (fiber) bristle brush to clean.

Obviously, peeling or scrapping off any loose.  I use a razor knife to cut a little past where the peeling is so I can pull it up and get a clean edge that is bonded to the roof. I have never nor would I intend to peel up all caulking.  If it is bonded....it is crosslinked.  

BUT, I also recoat or cover the old as I know it has crevices or voids or air bubble below...I can see that when I rinse as I push down to test.  

I always use blue painter's tape to mask off and such.

I realized that you, Steven know all this, but I tried to answer your question with my experience and knowledge...but others may not have gone through it.

That's how I do it and it works...

[Steve P]

@Tom Cherry Great info.  Some of it new to me.  As always, I appreciate your comprehensive explanations!

Blue tape to the rescue! 

[brokenarrow1244]

 

Here is a good one to watch

 

watch Dicor.htm

[Steve P]

I finished applying about 6-8 feet of Dicor self-leveling sealer about 7 hours ago.  Some of is is about 4 inches wide.  I tooled it with a paint scraper, and it's no work of art, but it is much better than what was there previously.  I'm hoping that the 93 degree heat this afternoon is enough to cure it in case we get the rain that is suddenly forecast (of course!).  I read it's waterproof in 4 hours... it may get put to the test.  24-48 hours to get 80% cured.  30 days to 100%.  Maybe I should have taken it back to the storage facility...