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Light on/off switches cause issues & windshield wipers have ghosts - 2001 Signature


Ingram Ranch
Go to solution Solved by Tom Cherry,

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when we use a couple of light switches it knocks off the power shades and lights in front of cabin.  also while driving for no reason the wioers will come on.  you can turn them off and it will happen again in a few miles.  can it be bad relays or could it be something else to look for?  i use the battery cut off and it will reset.

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And some coaches including mine the fluorescent lights seem to cause a lot of electrical noise in the system. Not noise you can hear but interference. I had to put stereo filters on each one of my air conditioners to keep the lights from making them short cycle. That is the stereo filter goes on the positive line going to your AC unit on the 12 outside. The instructions that come with it will be very clear.

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I am battling the wiper’s coming on by themselves issue.

I think it due to the Smartwheel. When I clean the contact ring for the smartwheel and clean the all the connections - it doesn’t happen for a while. 
Then it starts happening again….  And the frequency increases until I clean everything again.

Got so bad I would pull the fuse for the wipers.  Let me know if you get it solved.

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  • Tom Cherry changed the title to Light on/off switches cause issues & windshield wipers have ghosts - 2001 Signature
10 hours ago, timaz996 said:

And some coaches including mine the fluorescent lights seem to cause a lot of electrical noise in the system. Not noise you can hear but interference. I had to put stereo filters on each one of my air conditioners to keep the lights from making them short cycle. That is the stereo filter goes on the positive line going to your AC unit on the 12 outside. The instructions that come with it will be very clear.

If there is a switch on the side of each fixture….and you ARE referring to Fluorescent Overhead light fixtures, then the ballasts could be bad.  Typicalyy they will also “get fat” as in consuming way more current.  Try using the switches and turn off one and then see, through normal use if that resolves it.

Use the “SEARCH” box or button.  Put in “fluorescent LED” and then click on EVERYWHERE. The drop down menu will have a list of where to search.  Choose Topics.  Click on SEARCH.  Have a pad and pencil and a cup of coffee….LOL.  MANY TOPICS with a wealth of info and specific conversion “HOW TO”.

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10 hours ago, Ingram Ranch said:

how hard is it to clean the smartwheel contact ring?   

There are 2 different “Smartwheel’s”.

Mine (a 2000 year) is a 2-wire - does not have lighted pads. For this one, you put the steering wheel flat and raise it up all the way - unsnap the plastic coverings around the column. You will see a brass(?) ring with a couple of electrical contacts - as you lay on the floor and look underneath the steering wheel. I clean the ring with a spray electronics cleaner and a Q-Tip. I also use the electrical cleaner and spray and clean each electric joint for the smartwheel controller as I plug them back in.

If you have lighted pads 4-wire then you have an electric ribbon in the steering wheel - and you just replace it.

My understanding- if I understand everything correctly is: The smartwheel controller sends 5v to the steering wheel- then when you press a button it drops the voltage and the controller senses the voltage drop and activates the appropriate device for that voltage. What I think is happened is somewhere the 5v voltage is fluctuating and the controller thinks it’s time to activate the wipers.  It seems to get better (for a while) after I clean all the electrical connections- but then it happens again.

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10 minutes ago, Rocketman3 said:

There are 2 different “Smartwheel’s”.

Mine (a 2000 year) is a 2-wire - does not have lighted pads. For this one, you put the steering wheel flat and raise it up all the way - unsnap the plastic coverings around the column. You will see a brass(?) ring with a couple of electrical contacts - as you lay on the floor and look underneath the steering wheel. I clean the ring with a spray electronics cleaner and a Q-Tip. I also use the electrical cleaner and spray and clean each electric joint for the smartwheel controller as I plug them back in.

If you have lighted pads 4-wire then you have an electric ribbon in the steering wheel - and you just replace it.

My understanding- if I understand everything correctly is: The smartwheel controller sends 5v to the steering wheel- then when you press a button it drops the voltage and the controller senses the voltage drop and activates the appropriate device for that voltage. What I think is happened is somewhere the 5v voltage is fluctuating and the controller thinks it’s time to activate the wipers.  It seems to get better (for a while) after I clean all the electrical connections- but then it happens again.

WORD OF CAUTION.  There are, in most stores, TWO grades of Cleaners.  ELECTRICAL, which is more aggressive and volatile.  That stuff will melt a CAT 5 cable and mess up a LOT of plastics.  The lower or less aggressive is ELECTRONICS CONTACT CLEANER.  Our sage advice, from a Moderator's standpoint is to NEVER use an Electrical cleaner unless it is heavy duty like on a battery.  In sensitive electronics....use ONLY ELECTRONIC cleaners.

NOW....NOT ALL ELECTRICAL CLEANERS are the same.  In the olden days...there was  MOTOR cleaner.  It was the same as Disk Brake Cleaner and it would dissolve about anything.....and sometimes stuff you did NOT want dissolved.  So, the rule was Electrical cleaner for common contacts or such....like inside an ATS...but NOT on the PCB....

There, only use the Electronic.  I HAVE melted stuff and read and don't just grab a can.  I have TWO cans...and start off with Electronics...and if it doesn't work....try Alcohol and Q-tips and rarely, unless whatever I am working on appears to be DEAD and trying Electrical Cleaner is like the "Cure may KILL the Patient".

Just a tip....and we Moderators will jump in and post a warning and that is NOT a put down of the poster....only a clarification....

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