Electric Brake Controller Plug? 2006 Executive.

[Venturer]

1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

This cheap setup has found a lot of wires for me over the years.  Just one of many options.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0QKRG6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the very one I was looking at. Might be able to find a similar one here in Havasu. If not, Amazon already makes daily deliveries to our home, so what's one more?? 🙂 

[Venturer]

8 hours ago, Ivan K said:

This cheap setup has found a lot of wires for me over the years.  Just one of many options.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P0QKRG6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the very one I was looking at. Might be able to find a similar one here in Havasu. If not, Amazon already makes daily deliveries to our home, so what's one more?? 🙂 

Edit: While exposing all the wires under the dash and the side console, still nor connector. Apart from that, there are three coax cables coiled up that probably lead to the three cell phone antennas on the roof. They are each approximately 25' long with PL 259 connectors. What would they have plugged into that would have required such length? They've never been used and I won't either and will possibly cut them off rather than try to stuff them back behind the lower left panel. Anyone know what Monaco had in mind for them?   

Edited December 24, 2023 by Venturer

[Tom Cherry]

On 11/27/2023 at 9:59 AM, Venturer said:

That's what I will do. I have to wonder if Monaco had a certain controller in mind.?  DId they offer one at some time as an option? 

Yes,

Monaco corroborated with US Gear Universal Tow Brake and the connector was made for it. BUT, it matters not. You either clip the leads or you use the 3M ScotchLok connectors.  The 5 wire harness gave you the basic wires that braking systems for TOADS or for Trailer Brake connectors needed.

Bottom line.  Find it splice into it and go,

[Venturer]

I think I have found it. Is has 4 wires to a flat connector with the number 66 on it. I checked with the key on and one pin was hot. When I touched the brake, a second pin had 12 volts. There are only 4 wires, Blue, white, yellow/black, and black, instead of 5, but my controller only has 4 wires. It was right where it was supposed to be left of the steering column, but I was searching for a six pin connector. If I'm correct, the drinks are on me. 🙂

Edit: It seems to be the 4 wire plug that was used on the gas models of 2006 or 2007.    

Edited December 25, 2023 by Venturer

[Venturer]

More info after looking at the plug. As I said, the key gets power to one of the small wires and touching the brake lights up the other middle wire. The outer Blue wire is bigger as is the outer white wire. I confirmed the white goes to ground. After I find a jumper wire to connect the trailer plug wire at the hitch to ground, I can confirm a Blue circuit to the back. My concern is that both middle wires with power from the key and brake are smaller. There is no RED hot fused wire in the mix. My Prodigy 2 controller has the heavy Blue and Black wires. I'm glad to have found the plug, but uncertain how to proceed without the fused HOT wire.       

[Paul J A]

In the time frame era of your coach age, Monaco was installing at the factory on certain models a brake Control provided by U S Gear using a POSITIVE Ground. This may or may not be relative to your issue.

Just an FY I and not wanting to start another debate.

IF not relevant, PLEASE ignore.

[Venturer]

I had read that and wondered if that was the case. I was just out there and confirmed the white goes to ground. To mate up to the controller, I can use the Blue, white ground and the brake wire. I think I can eliminate the ignition wire. Then run a 12 ga wire through a 30 amp breaker to 12 volt source. That gets the Prodigy controller hooked up per it's wiring schematic. The controller would always be on in standby. That might not be what Monaco had in mind, but I didn't expect a 4-wire plug where a six w/5 wires should have been.  

[Tom Cherry]

18 hours ago, Venturer said:

I had read that and wondered if that was the case. I was just out there and confirmed the white goes to ground. To mate up to the controller, I can use the Blue, white ground and the brake wire. I think I can eliminate the ignition wire. Then run a 12 ga wire through a 30 amp breaker to 12 volt source. That gets the Prodigy controller hooked up per it's wiring schematic. The controller would always be on in standby. That might not be what Monaco had in mind, but I didn't expect a 4-wire plug where a six w/5 wires should have been.  

OK….congratulations.  You mist have been naughty sometime, Santa left you an early 2005 version of the Brake Control plug.  Maybe your coach was an early 2006? Maybe it was a “hey, we ain’t got one of these…this one looks close” situations.

Bottom line, you have the same plug as DeputyLynch had on his 2005 Diplomat…. Don’t ask for an explanation or any logic.  Most of the 06 Dynasties had the correct plug.

Now, here, is you want guidance, what you should do….and a little explanation.

This plug was for a totally DIFFERENT Braking system than was used on a Trailer Braking system.  The US Gear system had a control module in the Toad.  It was a TOWED VEHICLE BRAKING SYSTEM. So the signal or the BLUE wire carried only milliamps of current.  Later on, when “somebody” redesigned, the 6 pin plug was designed.  The missing HOT wire was NOT needed for a US Gear system as the Battery in the TOAD supplied the high current for the solenoid that pushed for moved or applied the brake pedal lever. Been there….did that….used that.

Next up.  Do NOT USE the “BLUE” wire lead or the NO SIGNAL wire on this plug . DeputyLynch used a signal tracer and found, nearby in a harness, the #12 Blue (don’t ask if it was white or blue?)…you need to locate the #12 wire that goes to the rear.  Splice or connect the OUTPUT of your TRAILER Brake controller to the #12 WIRE….not to the #18 on the plug.

Next, you need to find, and there are some leads, a CHASSIS HOT 12 VDC line. That will be the HOT LEAD or high current input to the Trailer Brake controller. Read the specs on the controller.  Odds are…it will be 20 A, if so, then you run a #12 feed, inline fused of course, to the controller.

NOW….and a BIG NOW….if you have a heavy duty Trailer and it requires a 30 Amp feed, then the standard 7 Pin umbilical may be undersized. You would have to run a separate #10 Wire to the rear and have a separate “umbilical” to handle the control or the voltage a d current required for the solenoids on the brakes.

ODDS ARE….your system and the controller are for a 20 A (maybe even 15A) system.  DO NOT OVER FUSE the HOT lead to the Brake Controller.

The remaining #18 wire leads on the 4 wire Flat connector are more than sufficed for the low current signals.

That’s it. You have an earlier harness that was SPECIFICALLY designed for the US GEAR UNIVERSAL TOW BRAKE.  It was not supposed to be used on a conventional Trailer with a conventional Trailer Brake Controller. But if you use the proper fused HOT and then chase and connect the Trailer Brake Controller output to the #12 “BLUE” wire going to the rear, it will work properly or “Just Fine”.

AGAIN a testimony to an old adage…Monaco never built the same MH twice….even one after the other.

Glad you found it.  

[Venturer]

Thanks Tom.

    I will send you a pic of my plug. It differs from the one pictured in your reply. The Blue and White are heavier than the yellow/black and black wires. The yellow/black has power when the key is on and the black has power when the brake is pressed. The Blue goes to the hitch and the white goes to ground. Does this setup match anything you have seen before, or am I just special. 🙂  

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, Venturer said:

Thanks Tom.

    I will send you a pic of my plug. It differs from the one pictured in your reply. The Blue and White are heavier than the yellow/black and black wires. The yellow/black has power when the key is on and the black has power when the brake is pressed. The Blue goes to the hitch and the white goes to ground. Does this setup match anything you have seen before, or am I just special. 🙂  

Sort of follow-up, for those curious, as well as what Doug plans.  We talked and he has a good direction.  This is only the second “not a 6 pin 5 wire” Prewired brake control harness that I remember and we’re way past 50 of so of these searches.

This is PROBABLY a different, Dynasty harness as it is not 100% compatible with the US Gear system.  It also was wired for a version of a brake controller that depended on a “HOT” Ignition wire to power the Controller.

Doug has a 4 wire controller.

Hot, assumed HOT and not switched.  Needs a 20A (or 30A) Auto Reset CB.  These are commonly used on charging lines. Doug and I discussed options and he will run a wire from the FRB to the controller. He has paths and ideas that I and others have used.

The Brake Controller output will be butt spliced directly to the Blue or the line to the rear. #12 so good to go.

The ground will be butt spliced to the ground cut off the plug

The other wire is a Positive 12 VDC signal wire from the service brakes.  That will be connected to the Brake Light wire.

He does NOT need the “switched 12 VDC” ignition wire.

That’s it.  Long hunt.  Finally found the critter, but it didn’t look like what he was hunting for. Monaco probably used this in early 2005 models and NO idea how it ended up on a 2006….but it did and all is solved now.

[Venturer]

Thanks for the help from Tom and others. Now, I feel like I could open up a "Let's find your Brake Controller Harness" shop. 

Edited December 26, 2023 by Venturer