Magnum ms2000-20B

[jfasano88]

My L1 and L2 has no power

[Hotrod - R.I.P.]

What kind of coach? Does it have a secondary panel or just the two pin breakers on the inverter?

Are you talking about L1 and L2 from shore power or a secondary inverter panel with an L1 and L2?

Edited July 13, 2020 by Hotrod

[Tom Cherry]

2 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

My L1 and L2 has no power

Bill asked good questions.  

Please tell us WHERE you don't have power.  The rules of the forum request that you have info on what MH you have.  That helps us all.

WHERE are you measuring or what are you calling "L1 and L2".

On a 50 amp service, you have L1 and L2 coming into the Automatic Transfer Switch.  The ATS will read L1 to Ground or Neutral - 115 Volts.  Same for L2.  BUT when you measure L1 to L2, you get 230 Volts.  From there, the power goes to the Main Breaker.  You will have a 30 Amp Breaker there for the Magnum.

The Magnum is both an Inverter as well as a Power Passer Througher...  The Magnum will have (most likely) 3 breakers.  Depending on the age....that could vary.  TYPICALLY, Monaco installed the ones with a 30 Amp PIN breaker (incoming power to the Magnum) and TWO 20 Amp Outgoing Breakers (Pins also)  If the main panel 30 amp is ON and not tripped...and you are on shore....you should have power to the Magnum.

If you are saying that you have NO power coming out of the Magnum....then if you have the TYPICAL 3 pin Magnum, then the first thing to do is to pull out and push back in the breakers.  They sometimes "TRIP".  Don't do this routinely.  They are Resettable....but NOT like a toggle or switch type breaker.

NOW, IF the pin breakers are OK.....then you need to find out HOW downstream circuits are RUN.  There MAY be a sub panel....as Bill suggested.  There may NOT be.  On some MH's the 115 VAC went to TWO circuits.  One was the Microwave.  The OTHER was to a GFCI (can be a receptacle or a panel/box) breaker.  If your microwave is NOT working....and you can NOT find any panel for it.....then the next issue is the INVERTER.

The Inverter has a built in ATS.  SO, if there is power to the Inverter, it automatically passes that through and you have 115 VAC.  BUT, the ATS relay was a higher failure (Per Magnum) part.  It is part of the MAIN CONTROL BOARD ($300 - $450).  IF the ATS has failed.....then you have to replace the board (or get a new inverter).

You need a qualified ELECTRICIAN (does not have to be a Motor Home Tech).  He needs to verify (pulling the wiring or the cover on the Magnum) if you have INCOMING POWER.  If the Magnum is ON (Green light blinks occassionally and you are on SHORE), then he needs to check the terminal strip that the L1 and L2 Circuits are connected to.  IF there is NO POWER THERE....you have a failed ATS and the board is bad.

Please be a little more specific.....this is how it works.

[vito.a]

I see John has a 2009 Camelot also.  Like the others said, first you need to tell us where you have no power.  

Try resetting the shore power breaker on the pedestal.  When I say reset I mean turn off, and then back on.  Then try resetting the two breakers in your main breaker box that go to the Inverter.  Next is to crawl into the basement and find the push in breakers on the Magnum inverter.    

You can also try running your generator and see if that resolves the issue.  

Let us know how it goes?

[Tom Cherry]

13 minutes ago, vito.a said:

I see John has a 2009 Camelot also.  Like the others said, first you need to tell us where you have no power.  

Try resetting the shore power breaker on the pedestal.  When I say reset I mean turn off, and then back on.  Then try resetting the two breakers in your main breaker box that go to the Inverter.  Next is to crawl into the basement and find the push in breakers on the Magnum inverter.    

You can also try running your generator and see if that resolves the issue.  

Let us know how it goes?

Vito,

Thanks for looking that up.

John.....

OK...we have the SAME MH.  Here is the circuit...

50 Amp to ATS....as I said.   

That goes to the Main Panel in the private bathroom.  There is a 30 Amp breaker there for the Inverter.

NOW....here is where I am confused.  

First.....are you saying that the LINE 1 Breakers in the Main Panel as well as the Line 2 Breakers have no power.  IF so, you have a Pedestal or an ATS problem.  If you have never looked at your ATS, and you have the IOTA 50-R or it says IOTA, you have a FIRE HAZARD.  That Inverter will short out and potentially CATCH FIRE.  Your MH is an Orphan so there was NO recall.  Be aware and purchase or install a NEW ATS.  The recommended one is the ESCO LPT50BRD.  There is another model that some folks prefer.  NOT GETTING INTO THAT ARGUMENT....you need to replace it.

SECOND.....if you have Power and the breakers are OK....then here is what you have.

You SHOULD NOT (unless Monaco did some funky stuff or maybe a Canadian Coach??) have an MS2000-  The STOCK inverter was a Pure Sine Wave MS2012.  It came with TWO outputs.  There is a 30 amp INCOMING (Pin) Breaker and TWO 20 Amp  (outgoing) Pin type breakers.  One line goes to the Microwave.  The OTHER line does to the Center Bath Vanity.  There is a GFCI there.  If you have NOT changed it, it is probably old and funky.  YES....these things happen.  That GFCI is a 20 Amp and should be replaced with a Leviton or a Cooper or Eaton Wiring Devices unit.  OTHER brands MAY not work on the Inverter.  You can call Magnum and they will tell you.  Lowes USED to carry the Cooper/Eaton brand.  If not AMAZON.  I had to replace mine....so I KNOW.  That GFCI controls all the INTERNAL outlets and the one next to the Inverter.  

SO....if you are saying NO AC from the inverter....and the Main Panel has power and the Inverter breaker is ON....then if the Pin Breakers are OK (pull out and push back in).....  I would START with the Incoming 30 amp one....then test....and then pull and push the other two 20's.

SO....NO JOY THEN. ..  Go back to my post.  ODDS are...  says Magnum....you have a FAILED ATS on the Magnum Circuit Board.  

The 2009's did not have a sub panel.  Even the Ones with a Res Refer had TWO inverters (1000 watt for the Res).  NO subpanels.

Let us know....

[jfasano88]

Thanks for the directions. I went and did the resets and nothing happened, still no 120 volts main breakers and l1 & l2 no power. I then took my volt meter and was getting 120 volts on  all main breaker and l1 & l2   Don’t know why I did this but there was a grey fuse next to the breakers and I removed it to check if the fuse was good (it was) so I put it back on and everything started to work. 
can someone tell me what happened when I remove the fuse and put it back it started working. 
john f 2009 Monaco Camelot kfq 

[Tom Cherry]

19 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

Thanks for the directions. I went and did the resets and nothing happened, still no 120 volts main breakers and l1 & l2 no power. I then took my volt meter and was getting 120 volts on  all main breaker and l1 & l2   Don’t know why I did this but there was a grey fuse next to the breakers and I removed it to check if the fuse was good (it was) so I put it back on and everything started to work. 
can someone tell me what happened when I remove the fuse and put it back it started working. 
john f 2009 Monaco Camelot kfq 

OK....what we have is a bit of a semantics issue.  NOT YOUR FAULT....but what you had said and what I had commented on are the SAME....but to make it simple for others in the future....here we go.

The post was a bit confusing in that it was listed as as a Magnum Issue.  Therefore it go "mis diagnosed".    I am still a bit confused, but we can sort that out.

You were plugged into Shore and presumably have 50 amps power.  When you say that you have NO L1 and L2, you mean that there is NO power inside the Motor Home on any of the outlets or the Appliances and such.  The fact that you said....  MAGNUM MS2000-20B was confusing.....

You have an Intellitec Energy Management System.  The EMS is the panel that is towards the bottom of the black control panel in the hallway (the EMS is, I think, just below the Magnum remote.

That EMS remote (you can switch from 20 to 30 amps when you don't have 50 amps) is the READOUT or the Monitor for the EMS.

I THINK that you removed the cover plate (the brown one).  That Main Distribution Panel is an Intellitec Supplied item.  Inside it are at least 6 relays.  If you look at the EMS panel on the "Control Panel"....The Control Panel by Monaco's terminology is the ENTIRE BIG BLACK panel that has all the switches, the Magnum Remote, the EMS, the level gauges, etc.  That is just for info and to allow you to tell us where or the right terminology.

OK....On the RIGHT side of the breaker panel is a Printed Circuit Board.  That is the BRAIN of the EMS.  When the brain is happy and you are on 50 amp power....then you will NOT get any load shedding.  The EMS is designed to shut down when you are on 30 (or 20 amps)  so that you will not overload the panel.  There are 6 relays.  Each one kills one of the circuit breakers.  This prevents you from overloading.  There is a sequence.  Typically if you are on 30 amps and try to run 2 AC's, you will see one of them cycle on and off and it is NOT controlled by the Thermostat.

Go to you Manual (you can download one if you don't have it).  I downloaded mine and have it handy).  Look on page 173 and start reading.  On p 175, it explains the system and the load shedding and the sequence....  Here is the link.  If it breaks.  Monaco Coach.  MENU....  OWNERS (or Ownership), Manuals.

https://www.monacocoach.com/rv-owners-manuals

OK....your TAKEAWAYS..  

FIRST......The EMS gets "confused" from time to time.  What you did was remove the fuse to the Printed Circuit Board's BRAIN.  I assume that the fuse you pulled was a DC fuse or the Mini Fuse.  You are supposed to pull that for maybe a minute....TECHNICALLY.... you SHOULD have removed the SHORE power.  The Genny should NOT be ON.  So, you have NO incoming AC.  THEN remove the panel cover.  THEN pull that fuse and wait a minute.  Reinstall the fuse.  Then apply AC (shore or Genny).  THAT usually gets it going.  You did not do it "by the book", but it worked.

NOTE.  NEVER leave a circuit breaker TRIPPED or off.  For some reason, that confuses the BRAIN.  Folks have chased ghosts and found that one breaker, for whatever reason, was off...

SECOND.....  You MAY be at RISK of a fire or an electrical failure.  You need to look for the ATS which is probably to the RIGHT of the White Inverter in the back curb bay.  It is easy to spot.  There are THREE BIG Cables going to it.  One is the incoming Shore 50A.  The other is the Genny AC.  The last one (not necessarily in that order) is the MAIN 50 Amp feed to the Circuit Breaker Panel in the bathroom.  IF you still have the original IOTA 50R (?) or if it say IOTA....then I would not use the MH until I swapped (or had it replaced) it out.

MY recommendation is the ESCO LPT50 BRD.  You can order that on line.  MOST of the motor home repair places or the mobile RV Techs will use this on.  IF you are handy and can do electrical work and remove #6 wire and install circuit breakers and such, then you MAY be able to do it yourself.  THE WORD OF WARNING.  Pull the cover off the IOTA switch.  Read the Terminal Strip.  Use TAPE (blue or masking) and label the cables.  Make sure you do that.  Take a picture.  The ESCO (or others) will not be in the same sequence.  SO, you need to make sure that each cable is labeld SHORE, GENNY, MAIN PANEL (sometimes called LOAD).  Then when you install the new ATS, make sure that you get the RIGHT cable to the RIGHT set of terminals.  We have had folks that randomly swapped them out.....and put them back in the same order.  OPPS.....DOES NOT WORK.

THIRD.....I would have a SPARE (or actually install it) 20 Amp GFCI outlet or Receptacle.  Home Depot sells the Leviton.  You just need the basic unit.  You MAY not be able to buy "Non Tamper Resistant" due to NEC code changes.  If you can find a STANDARD (no the Tamper Resistant), I would buy that.  Lowes no longer carries the Cooper Wiring Devices (was Eaton Wiring Devices) or the Eaton/Arrow Hart line.  You can find the Eaton (it may be called Arrow Hart) on Amazon.  I used to work for Cooper and I knew the plants.  The Cooper (was originally Eagle....that is how far back I go) and Leviton were BOTH brands approved by Magnum as working with the Inverters.  Folks have put in other brands....and with mixed results.  SO, I KNOW that the Cooper (Eaton) works.  I swapped mine out.  

That's it.....

 

[jfasano88]

On 7/13/2020 at 12:07 PM, Tom Cherry said:

Bill asked good questions.  

Please tell us WHERE you don't have power.  The rules of the forum request that you have info on what MH you have.  That helps us all.

WHERE are you measuring or what are you calling "L1 and L2".

On a 50 amp service, you have L1 and L2 coming into the Automatic Transfer Switch.  The ATS will read L1 to Ground or Neutral - 115 Volts.  Same for L2.  BUT when you measure L1 to L2, you get 230 Volts.  From there, the power goes to the Main Breaker.  You will have a 30 Amp Breaker there for the Magnum.

The Magnum is both an Inverter as well as a Power Passer Througher...  The Magnum will have (most likely) 3 breakers.  Depending on the age....that could vary.  TYPICALLY, Monaco installed the ones with a 30 Amp PIN breaker (incoming power to the Magnum) and TWO 20 Amp Outgoing Breakers (Pins also)  If the main panel 30 amp is ON and not tripped...and you are on shore....you should have power to the Magnum.

If you are saying that you have NO power coming out of the Magnum....then if you have the TYPICAL 3 pin Magnum, then the first thing to do is to pull out and push back in the breakers.  They sometimes "TRIP".  Don't do this routinely.  They are Resettable....but NOT like a toggle or switch type breaker.

NOW, IF the pin breakers are OK.....then you need to find out HOW downstream circuits are RUN.  There MAY be a sub panel....as Bill suggested.  There may NOT be.  On some MH's the 115 VAC went to TWO circuits.  One was the Microwave.  The OTHER was to a GFCI (can be a receptacle or a panel/box) breaker.  If your microwave is NOT working....and you can NOT find any panel for it.....then the next issue is the INVERTER.

The Inverter has a built in ATS.  SO, if there is power to the Inverter, it automatically passes that through and you have 115 VAC.  BUT, the ATS relay was a higher failure (Per Magnum) part.  It is part of the MAIN CONTROL BOARD ($300 - $450).  IF the ATS has failed.....then you have to replace the board (or get a new inverter).

You need a qualified ELECTRICIAN (does not have to be a Motor Home Tech).  He needs to verify (pulling the wiring or the cover on the Magnum) if you have INCOMING POWER.  If the Magnum is ON (Green light blinks occassionally and you are on SHORE), then he needs to check the terminal strip that the L1 and L2 Circuits are connected to.  IF there is NO POWER THERE....you have a failed ATS and the board is bad.

Please be a little more specific.....this is how it works.

 

Tom I sent another request but don’t know if it is getting thru to you or the Monaco family. Tell me how to post new topics

[Tom Cherry]

On 7/16/2020 at 4:10 PM, jfasano88 said:

 

Tom I sent another request but don’t know if it is getting thru to you or the Monaco family. Tell me how to post new topics

You do not need to make a new topic.  You can replay to the topic by using the REPLY that pops up.

You can use the QUOTE Button and it bring in the previous post.  That is what I did here....

Try that.....

Thanks....