Eureka cv 140 won’t turn on

[jfasano88]

My vacuum cleaner was working great. When I went to use it again it will not start. I changed bag and still no power. I have electricity to the unit.  Checked with multimeter (has power. Is there a reset button or a fuse to change. I believe there is a 12 volt that connects to the ring that turns it on. 
John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

[Tom Cherry]

5 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

My vacuum cleaner was working great. When I went to use it again it will not start. I changed bag and still no power. I have electricity to the unit.  Checked with multimeter (has power. Is there a reset button or a fuse to change. I believe there is a 12 volt that connects to the ring that turns it on. 
John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

There are TWO switches….in parallel.  One is inside the “toe kick”.  When you open or use it, it turns on the power.  The second is in the outlet in the hallway.

You need to download the manual for it.  Mine has a “strange” condition.  Driving down the highway, “WHATS THAT NOISE?” The Toe Kick outlet just “came on”. I pulled it apart somewhat and sprayed the microswitch and pivot with WD40.  No other issues….works great. I also tested it and the switch on the nozzle or hose outlet in the hallway works.  Verify if BOTH WORK.  Then there is a wiring issue.  I’m not aware of a reset but, the manual will tell you.  When you trace the wires from each port, you can disconnect and bypass and verify.

The outlets are commonly available. If disconnecting or completing the circuit (either one), then odds are….an internal failure….and you just replace.  BUT, you need to trace the circuits.  Assume you have plugged in a lamp or some other device into the outlet.  I don’t trust those clamp on outlets.  Verify power or run an extension cord to the motor….

[dandick66]

When mine didn’t work, I dismounted it and took it apart.  I rapped on the circuit board relay with a plastic screwdriver handle and it’s been working fine for over 5 years. 
Try that and see if it works.  

[jfasano88]

I did what you said and it is working. But now it won’t turn off. I use the breaker to turn it on and off  any ideas 

John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

 

[dandick66]

4 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

I did what you said and it is working. But now it won’t turn off. I use the breaker to turn it on and off  any ideas 

John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

 

It might be the kickplate switch.  There has to be a wire from the kickplate switch to the vacuum.  If you disconnect that wire does it turn off? 

[jfasano88]

I will try it tomorrow   Very little room to get to it. Only enough wire for wall plate. Can’t get a screwdriver in there. I can cut the wire at the vacuum and can splice it back?

[dandick66]

32 minutes ago, jfasano88 said:

I will try it tomorrow   Very little room to get to it. Only enough wire for wall plate. Can’t get a screwdriver in there. I can cut the wire at the vacuum and can splice it back?

You could do that, but if that works then you will still have to get to the kickplate wire/switch.  

[Tom Cherry]

16 hours ago, jfasano88 said:

I did what you said and it is working. But now it won’t turn off. I use the breaker to turn it on and off  any ideas 

John F 2009 Camelot kfq 

 

You need, I think, to use WD40 on the switch in the kick plate.  I’m a little confused about your original post.  Did you try BOTH the Toe Kick AND the Outlet?

  That was important as you needed to know if it was a problem in the SWITCH on the two outlets OR was in the Vacuum Cleaner control PCB.

The TOE KICK was my problem and is a “known” issue.  SO…I would work on the switch in the Toe Kick with WD40.

Right now I’m not sure if your banging has locked the relay in the ONE mode or if you have a switch issue in the Toe Kick.

MY ADVICE….  Work on the TOE KICK switch.  No JOY…Then cut or unplug the Toe Kick wire.

You have to isolate and then test….

That’s my recommendation 

[jfasano88]

No Tom I did unscrew the toe kick but didn’t see any wires. Then I did the same to the plug in and found the two wires, couldn’t unscrew the wires (to tight to the wall but I did try a multi meter but no readings. Then I banged on the the relay. I will use the WD-40. Is it ok to use the breaker when I need to vacuum. Should I bang on the relay again to unstick it

[dandick66]

There has to be wires going to the back of the toe kick.  That is what turns the vacuum on and off.  
Several questions… When you unscrew the toe kick, how far can you pull it away from the wall?  Can you get to the back of the toe kick from another part of the coach?  On my Diplomat I think I can access the wires from the amidships bathroom.  If not, I think I could remove the convenience center control panel and see the wires in that cavity.  

If I understand your post correctly, you were able to find the 2 wires that run from the vacuum to the toe kick, but could not unscrew the wires.  You tried a multi meter on the wires, but no readings.  What mode was your multi meter in - volts, ohms, amps? 
 

Try this… Unplug the vacuum.  Set your meter to read ohms or continuity.  Touch the leads together and confirm that you read 0, or hear a beep/tone.  Connect the meter leads across the wires that you found.  Make sure you have a good, clean connection to the wires, not the insulation.  If the toe kick switch is stuck closed then you should read 0.  If it reads open “OL” on the display, then the toe kick is not what is keeping the vacuum running.  

[jfasano88]

I will try that solution. 

When you say toe kick is it the lever you push with your foot when you are sweeping or is it the connection you push the vacuum into the female end to vacuum 

[Tom Cherry]

28 minutes ago, dandick66 said:

There has to be wires going to the back of the toe kick.  That is what turns the vacuum on and off.  
Several questions… When you unscrew the toe kick, how far can you pull it away from the wall?  Can you get to the back of the toe kick from another part of the coach?  On my Diplomat I think I can access the wires from the amidships bathroom.  If not, I think I could remove the convenience center control panel and see the wires in that cavity.  

If I understand your post correctly, you were able to find the 2 wires that run from the vacuum to the toe kick, but could not unscrew the wires.  You tried a multi meter on the wires, but no readings.  What mode was your multi meter in - volts, ohms, amps? 
 

Try this… Unplug the vacuum.  Set your meter to read ohms or continuity.  Touch the leads together and confirm that you read 0, or hear a beep/tone.  Connect the meter leads across the wires that you found.  Make sure you have a good, clean connection to the wires, not the insulation.  If the toe kick switch is stuck closed then you should read 0.  If it reads open “OL” on the display, then the toe kick is not what is keeping the vacuum running.  

Ditto the above.  Need to do some reading and understand, and I think you do, what may be wrong.

As USUAL, there is NO perfect Machine....folks have had years of service from the Eureka...and others detest it.  Some have swapped out the unit for a "Dirt Devil".

Here is a thread from IRV2.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/central-vacuum-system-316492.html

Also the manual....

https://banksvac.com/content/product_manuals/Eureka_CV140 _Yellow_Jacket.pdf

I would go at Dan's recommendation a little differently.  SAME principle....there are always many ways to trouble shoot.

Locate the Low Voltage terminal block (see the manual).  You will (SHOULD) have at least ONE set of wires from the two ports upstairs. There is NO drawing, so this is a GUESS.  I would THINK that there is only ONE Low Voltage line running up there.  The hall outlet has a SWITCH.  The toe kick has a SWITCH.  These switches COULD be run individually (two sets of wires to the low voltage block) of just one TWO pair cable.  IF one....then the two switches on the ports are in Parallel.

The terminal block should be labeled.  IF there is an individual wire from EACH port....then use your meter.  VACUUM UNPLUGGED in the bay.  Put you meter (Ohms or continuity) on two leads.  Have your wife or a helper open and close the TOE Kick....if two wires....try each one.  Same deal on the Plug in Port.  Plug and unplug the hose into the hall port.  

What you are trying to accomplish is to determine if there is one cable (2 wire pair) with two switches in parallel upstream) or if there are TWO 2 wire pairs (onw pair for each port).  Then test the ports.  Cycle the Toe Kick several times.  Plug and unplug the hall port several times.  IF you get continuity each time, then your KNOW the switches are OK.  IF NOT....then you have a switch problem.  I can't tell you how to find the wire in the back of the Toe Kick...except there is a HOSE coming up.  That hose is "foamed" in for insulation and the techs punch holes in the foam to run wires.  My solar was aftermarket...and they looked at another 09 Factory Solar and used the same path.  SO, there has to be a wire coming up around the hose and foamed in.  Same for the Outlet in the hall.  You will have to remove the lower panel under the sink or under the cabinet....and there is access to it.

TEST the SWITCHES FIRST.  Then if they are OK....you have a Vacuum problem.  IF SO....then replace it or put in another brand.  The low voltage wiring switches are ALL compatible....so you use what you have.  IF ONE switch is bad....replace it....  OR, find the wire...  cut it loose and put in a simple toggle switch (in the cabinet) and then use it to turn on the vacuum.  That would work for the toe kick as well. The panel, or at least on mine, above the Toe Kick is easy to pull off and there is a world of room down there.

That's it.  TROUBLESHOOT and verify the switches work.  THEN  look at the Vacuum.  Don't know if you can UNPLUG the Vacuum and lightly tap the PCB....and get it functional.  SOMETIMES, just unplugging a funky electronic device and letting it sit for a hour or so will resolve it...  Read the manual and understand how the vacuum interfaces for works with the terminal strip.

Let us know...

[jfasano88]

I have found the two wires from the toe kick and put the multimeter on ohms and got nothing no continuity no beep. Then I removed one wire and turn on my breaker and it kept running. I did it again and no continuity and also was getting erotic numbers but no beep. I also sprayed the hose input with WD-40. I did it to the inlet hose and I got the same results. It might be the relay. 

[Tom Cherry]

1 hour ago, jfasano88 said:

I have found the two wires from the toe kick and put the multimeter on ohms and got nothing no continuity no beep. Then I removed one wire and turn on my breaker and it kept running. I did it again and no continuity and also was getting erotic numbers but no beep. I also sprayed the hose input with WD-40. I did it to the inlet hose and I got the same results. It might be the relay. 

OK….help me out a little.  When you found the two wires from the Toe Kick….exactly WHERE did you put the VOM to measure.  With the breaker off, if you put the VOM on ohms/continuity and measured them…..with the Toe Kick in the “operational mode”, you should have had a circuit.  

Are there two sets of wires….as in one for the Toe Kick and one for the Inlet in the hall.  I probably would have unscrewed one of the wires from each and measured the continuity on each pair….  Again, I don’t know how they low voltage lead (s) are run….one pair…..and each of the switches in parallel or two sets of low voltage.

It would be very unlikely for a switch to go out on both the inlet and the toe kick at the same time….

SO….two separate circuits or wires or ONE pair….which have the individual switches in parallel. Could you please confirm or make that a little clearer….I’m having a bit of a problem understanding.

NOW…if you have the skill set and electrical knowledge, then…..here is the option that I would use.

Materials….

24 VAC Volt HVAC Transformer 

Simple ON/OFF SPST switch

24 VAC HVAC/Fan relay…..

Supco 90340 General Purpose Switching Relay, 24 V Coil Voltage, Double Pole Double Throw Contacts

Amazon has them for $13.  Total cost of your parts will be around $25 - $30.  Probably can use the “wire pair” to the Toe Kick….or run a new #16 pair.

Mount the ON/OFF (a simple toggle switch or even a “electric” wall switch) right above where the Panel that you remove above the toe kick.  This will be the VACUUM on/off switch. Run the two pair wire back to the Vacuum area.  Might need a “electrical” utility box (Amazon has them).  The circuit is as follows…

Run 120 VAC from a Line cord that plugs into the outlet.  That goes to TWO places.  One side goes to the 120 VAC Input of the reduction HVAC transformer….similar to door bell transformer.  You split the 120 and run the BLACK to the Supco Relay terminals.  Then run the power from the relay contacts back to the black of the Vacuum cleaner.  The white common and ground are tied together.

Run the switch contacts (top side) down to the box.  One goes to either of the output (24 VAC) from the transformer.  Then run the other output to the relay coil (Supco). The OTHER switch wire goes to the other relay coil contact.

SO….when you want to vacuum …..or use the Toe Kick….plug in the hose or “kick the toe kick”…NOT BOTH…  then turn on the switch.  The switch is low, 24 VAC voltage.  It energizes the 24 VAC coil on the Supco.  This closes a set of contacts (load side) of the Supco.  The Supco then turns on the Eureka motor.  Turn off switch….motor shuts off.

The cost of a replacement vacuum is in the $200 or so range.  NOW….this assumes that the PCB on the Eureka is “permanently on.  You COULD trace and find the motor leads inside the Eureka and run power directly to the motor and bypass the PCB.  You have a manual ON/OFF switch….and rock on….

Please elaborate a little on the wiring and such….

EDIT….BTW, if you popped off the panel above the Toe Kick and look down at it, you can see the “housing” where the micro switch is located.  I didn’t do anything but spray the top of the Toe Kick.  The WD40 lubricated the switch….and it “stopped” vibrating on.  

Suggest you rerun your switch testing.