Alladin and Back up Monitor Display Not working

[birdshill123]

I am having trouble with the BU monitor and the radio. My unit has been sitting in my shop for 3 months. I used it yesterday and the monitor was working. Today it is back in the shop and the monitor is dead. I can hear the alladin beeping when I  use the control. I cannot find the fuse.  I finally found the fuse from the  monitor I installed a year ago. I just stopped for lunch. In the meantime I need to find the fuse for the radio. In the FRB there is a fuse marked radio but it is fine. I would just run a new power  wire to the monitor but it needs to go through the junction block for the Alladin system. Sorry if I am rambling. Getting too old for this stuff!

[Tom Cherry]

We have the 2008 prints on file.  The have a PDF index.  Start there.  Typically, Monaco spent mor3 time on non critical items, like radio and AV.  There is a detailed print on the radio…. Have seen it many times as i scrolled through looking for other items.

Use WIRING in the search.  Click on Everywhere and TOPICS.

There are TWO sets of 2008 Dynasty as there were a FEW 08’s with CCM. I THINK the first set of 2008 on page 1 is yours….unless you have a CCM.

Good Luck…

[birdshill123]

Thanks Tom> I have to admit I have never used this file. I fooled around and once I figured it out I see that the Monitor has a fuse in the RRB. I will find that tomorrrow. But the radio diagram shows the fuse but it says underneath: 15-J1-5. Where is that?? The radio fuse in the FR bay is good but no power to the radio? I could just steal some 12 volt from another wire but would prfere the correct way. Thanks

[Tom Cherry]

37 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

Thanks Tom> I have to admit I have never used this file. I fooled around and once I figured it out I see that the Monitor has a fuse in the RRB. I will find that tomorrrow. But the radio diagram shows the fuse but it says underneath: 15-J1-5. Where is that?? The radio fuse in the FR bay is good but no power to the radio? I could just steal some 12 volt from another wire but would prfere the correct way. Thanks

@Frank McElroy  The syntax escapes me....and I am tied up.  BUT, Frank will probably chime in....or if he misses this....PM HIM.  He is our GURU (and that is an UNDERSTATEMENT) on the electronics.

NEVER, EVER steal power when you can't locate a fuse.

Frank will help you.  

You're making progress....and we, the Staff, appreciate members that did in and learn and become MORE SELF SUFFICIENT....as later on, they tend to help others.

GOOD JOB!!!!

[Frank McElroy]

3 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

Thanks Tom> I have to admit I have never used this file. I fooled around and once I figured it out I see that the Monitor has a fuse in the RRB. I will find that tomorrrow. But the radio diagram shows the fuse but it says underneath: 15-J1-5. Where is that?? The radio fuse in the FR bay is good but no power to the radio? I could just steal some 12 volt from another wire but would prfere the correct way. Thanks

15-J1 -5 means Printed Circuit Board (PCB) number 15 in the Front Run Bay (FRB), connector J1 on that PCB and wire #5 on that J1 connector.

Then check the large J2 pin 5 on the side wall connector on the FRB.

There are many times where this multi pin cable connection on the side of the FRB has pin corrosion.

[birdshill123]

Thanks Frank . I will attack that in the morning.

[Tom Cherry]

10 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

15-J1 -5 means Printed Circuit Board (PCB) number 15 in the Front Run Bay (FRB), connector J1 on that PCB and wire #5 on that J1 connector.

Then check the large J2 pin 5 on the side wall connector on the FRB.

There are many times where this multi pin cable connection on the side of the FRB has pin corrosion.

As usual.... Frank to the Rescue.  

Yes, the connectors (Big suckers....LOL) have been known to be an issue.  The usual fix is to unplug and replug a few times to sort of burnish or polish off the corrosion.

I use a trick taught to me by an old master electrician.  

First...  I would try a precision screwdriver on them.. Put this in AMAZON. Stanley Tools 6-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set, Black/Yellow  

These are very sturdy.  You can use the flat blade ones to sort of scrape off any surface corrosion. I do NOT know the diameter of the Female receptacles.  But, on the 6 pin connectors that Roadmaster makes for umbilicals, I purchased a .17 Caliber (17 Caliber) rifle cleaning brush (gun shops or Amazon).  That is a tiny brass brush and works great....  Don't know if the pins on this multi plug are that large. 

The NEXT trick is the best I have used.  NoAlox is a "AntiCorrosion" electrical compound.  Think toothpaste or maybe a bit runnier. It contains Aluminum fines. It is used for Manufactured Housing (Mobile Homes) repairs where there is a LOT of Aluminum wiring.  It is designed to prevent bi-metalism (reaction) between Copper Wires and Aluminum Wires.  BUT...the neat thing....it has a high concentration of microscopic aluminum fines. You can use a tooth pick and put a drop (very small) on the interior of the female pin and the exterior of the male pin (or PINS) and when you mate them a few times, the NoAlox acts like polishing compound on a car's paint.

Gardner Bender makes one that Lowes' used to sell or most electrical supply houses have one.  

USE....VERY VERY Sparingly.  Typically, a little cleaning with a small brass brush (Lowes has them....maybe toothbrush size) will clean the male pins.  Then you can use the precision screwdrivers to go the internal walls of the female.  NO JOY... use the NoAlox.

NOW.....curiosity prevailed.  I KNEW that there was a COPPER "GRIT" compound as I had searched for it a time of two... This is the SAME (generically speaking) Classification as the NoAlox...but is a COPPER based product.  

https://media.ilsco.com/document/catalogpage/DE-OX.pdf

ILSCO Oxide inhibitor is available in three different formulas: NON-GRIT, ZINC, COPPER. Oxide Inhibitor is applied to the connector prior to inserting the wire conductor, providing an air-tight seal around the conductor, preventing oxides

from forming.

USE COMMON SENSE and don't go crazy.  I would try to clean (brush and screwdriver) the contacts and mate and unmate.  IF THAT WORKS....STOP.  Then use Bulb Grease....SPARINGLY and put the connector back together.  That will prevent future corrosion.  I use a 2 or 4X Eye Loupe (Jeweler) and a strong LED (small Maglite) and inspect. 

BUT if the corrosion is bad....then the NoAlox will work.  I can't find the Copper Grit on Amazon....maybe EBAY.  I plan to order a small bottle of it and put it with my "GEE...hope I NEVER need this stuff" in the MH.

Work slowly and carefully...  If Frank is right....then you should be able to clean the connector.  

Good Luck...

[birdshill123]

Thanks om> I think I have some noax.

[birdshill123]

Thanks to Frank and Tom I have partially solved my problem. That J2 connector was  the problem. I. Pin5. I just sprayed it with electronic cleaner and the radio is on. But the  back up/Alladin monitor is dead. I installed the Voyager replacement for the Sony monitor last February. .  I do not have time for further  diagnoses . May notes say to connect a white wire that used to be the Sony power to the red wire which is the Voyager power. It was connected. . I removed the solder joint and temporarily reconnected. Immediately the radio is dead and the monitor still does not work.  There is one fuse  near the radio but I am not sure what it powers. I need to remove the monitor and and   connect a fused 12volt to see if it comes on. I am suspecting either a connection problem or a dead monitor. We are leaving Mexico on Tuesday and I do not have time to work on this problem. That whole area is full of wires. I had to remove the radio and the HVAC panel to access that mess. I find it strange that Sony would  use a white wire for 12 volt positive. It does have the odd red  mark on the wire. I wonder if there is a monitor fuse from the old Sony monitor. The Dynasty has a small monitor in the bedroom and it still brings up the Alladin.

[Tom Cherry]

9 minutes ago, birdshill123 said:

Thanks to Frank and Tom I have partially solved my problem. That J2 connector was  the problem. I. Pin5. I just sprayed it with electronic cleaner and the radio is on. But the  back up/Alladin monitor is dead. I installed the Voyager replacement for the Sony monitor last February. .  I do not have time for further  diagnoses . May notes say to connect a white wire that used to be the Sony power to the red wire which is the Voyager power. It was connected. . I removed the solder joint and temporarily reconnected. Immediately the radio is dead and the monitor still does not work.  There is one fuse  near the radio but I am not sure what it powers. I need to remove the monitor and and   connect a fused 12volt to see if it comes on. I am suspecting either a connection problem or a dead monitor. We are leaving Mexico on Tuesday and I do not have time to work on this problem. That whole area is full of wires. I had to remove the radio and the HVAC panel to access that mess. I find it strange that Sony would  use a white wire for 12 volt positive. It does have the odd red  mark on the wire. I wonder if there is a monitor fuse from the old Sony monitor. The Dynasty has a small monitor in the bedroom and it still brings up the Alladin.

When you read this....you are going to go screaming down the hall and bang your head.  Monaco never uses a BLACK wire for GROUND.  Also, all the Radio and Stereos and aftermarket upgrades from cars are a MIXED BAG.  You need to identify the wire and how it is to be connected.  The old days of RED is positive and BLACK be negative are gone.  BTW.  If you look carefully at your Monaco ALL WHITE (usually #12 wires), you will see Screen Printed Labels or ID's on them.

Welcome to the MH's OWNERS Counseling group.  Alcohol is NOT allowed....

Glad you got the plug fixed....