Replacement of 2006 Endeavor Shower Skylight

[guy_ethier]

While, after fixing both furnaces, the water heater and installing a new kitchen sink faucet where no full size man out to be able to fit into under the sink, I decided to clean my roof the other day.  I then noticed a large crack in the dark colored shower skylight. Measurements, as close as I can tell with all of the extra goop covering everything in sight, comes out to be about 27" x 27" x 8" x 25" x 8" for the bubble portion. I assume there is a 2" nail flange around the side?  The goop is at least 3 inches wide so hard to tell.

I have sourced 2 outfits that sell them, but I was wondering if anyone, Scotty Hutto perhaps, has already replaced theirs and could second my measurements as being correct?  I would like to order the new one prior to removing the old one and leaving such a large hole in the roof outside where I park the beast.

I do know that there is a special sealant required as well as ordering extra stainless steel screws as the holes will not match and I might need extra screws. Not planning on using the original screws,  but just want to be sure I don't run out.

Finally, any benefit to smoked glass colored over white colored over clear colored other than white being harder to keep clean?

Thanks,

[Tom Cherry]

40 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

While, after fixing both furnaces, the water heater and installing a new kitchen sink faucet where no full size man out to be able to fit into under the sink, I decided to clean my roof the other day.  I then noticed a large crack in the dark colored shower skylight. Measurements, as close as I can tell with all of the extra goop covering everything in sight, comes out to be about 27" x 27" x 8" x 25" x 8" for the bubble portion. I assume there is a 2" nail flange around the side?  The goop is at least 3 inches wide so hard to tell.

I have sourced 2 outfits that sell them, but I was wondering if anyone, Scotty Hutto perhaps, has already replaced theirs and could second my measurements as being correct?  I would like to order the new one prior to removing the old one and leaving such a large hole in the roof outside where I park the beast.

I do know that there is a special sealant required as well as ordering extra stainless steel screws as the holes will not match and I might need extra screws. Not planning on using the original screws,  but just want to be sure I don't run out.

Finally, any benefit to smoked glass colored over white colored over clear colored other than white being harder to keep clean?

Thanks,

Wow,  you sound industrious….sometimes a blessing….others call it a curse.

First….for you edification and also to help you use the sight…

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Shower skylight&quick=1&type=forums_topic

I used the search box in the upper right.  I used two key words. Shower and skylight.  I then clicked on everywhere….and chose “TOPICS”.  Here is the results.  Take some time and click on each one.  Then scroll up or down and get the gist of the topic….often times the titles are a bit misleading or the “intent” of the topic sort of shifted. Takes a little time, but you will find a world of help as to how others accomplished what you intend to do.

If you haven’t downloaded the PARTS LIST….do a search.  Use PARTS. This time select FILES from “everywhere”.  Now,  look at the top of the first page and check the Adobe Reader tools.  There is a FIND….as in a key word or phrase.  I would do two.  Skylight and Shower.  That will list the vendors folks have used….so, you have a LOT of relavent information….as some might not respond as they are busy.

Folks here, memory, have done some unique and perhaps NON MONACO OEM “things”.  I will comment on two that struck me.

First the sealant.  Ordinarily PROFLEX is the sealant that most use.  Somewhere in my mind, a warning pops up.  DO NOT USE ON ACRYLIC.  That came from getting freebie kits to replace the covers on the Fantastic fans.  They sent me DiCor “EPDM” LAP SEALANT.  FF said that was their choice…as this was a large “customer complaint” resolution.

The original sealant, probably called out in your manual….a great resource….was GeoCell.  It is a “volatile cure” sealant and the industry switched over to Non Volatile and GeoCel(L) developed ProFlex.  So read up on what was used originally.  The original GeoCel was an industry standard.  It was more vicious than most others and Monaco would “squirt” it generously and it would crawl or “self level”.  The new proflex is thicker and won’t spread or self level as nicely or neatly.  However, the DiCor Lap Sealant is closer to the OEM Geocel and spreads and levels and you don’t have to do as much “touch up” or spreading.

Another thing many of us have learned….be careful and do NOT tear up what ain’t broke.  We often touch up or recoat the flange sealant on the roofs.  We use blue painters tape and go about an inch out and make a “box”.  Then you clean the old sealant or caulk with Simple Green.  If there is black mold or mildew (common in the south from pine trees) a little bleach (diluted say 5 - 10 to ONE) will remove the stain and you get better adhesion with the new sealer.  I go stronger and use Bleech White (outside and ventilated) and it really cleans the existing caulk of sealer.  Rinse thoroughly.  Then let it dry and Lightly recoat the entire area.  The original sealer will have some “entraned” air or bubbles.  Easy to seal them.

ONE point..as you get to the edge of the blue tape masking….use a 1” of so putty knife and taper the thickness….that way you have a thinner edge or thickness against the blue tape.  Let it cure.  Then as you remove the blue tape, use a razor blade and CUT, not tear the caulk…neater and more waterproof.

Never have i totally scrapped up or peeled up every square inch of sealer.  If the caulking is adhered well, then the new top coat of sealer or caulk will crosslink and it is totally “waterproof”.  If you have to use a lot of muscle and putty knives and literal “cut off” the caulking….odds are…it is OK.

NOW some folks have used EternaBond to tie or seal down the flange.  This DOES require scrapping and chipping off all and getting a clean firm flat surface.  Imhave done that a few places. BUT I use Acetone (SPARINGLY) and a small bristle brush.  The acetone dissolves the loose caulk as well as “primes or activates” the surface area.  Then EternaBond adheres well.

That my take on it…..

Good Luck.

[guy_ethier]

I was of the feeling that this was the only sealant one should use, based upon the manufacturer's recommendation?

Amazon.com: SUREBOND BriRus SB140 Skylight Sealant (SB-140 T White) : Industrial & Scientific

Anything else and one is looking for problems down the road. Am I wrong as I have checked the manufacturer's online videos and all of them say the same thing? Only use skylight sealant approved for skylights.

Edited April 22 by guy_ethier

[Tom Cherry]

6 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

I was of the feeling that this was the only sealant one should use, based upon the manufacturer's recommendation?

Amazon.com: SUREBOND BriRus SB140 Skylight Sealant (SB-140 T White) : Industrial & Scientific

Anything else and one is looking for problems down the road. Am I wrong as I have checked the manufacturer's online videos and all of them say the same thing? Only use skylight sealant approved for skylights.

All I know is that the “goto” Proflex sealant, from memory, said “NOT FOR ACRYLICS”.  In addition Fantastic Fans specified the DiCor Lap Sealant….which is self leveling.  I know, from talking to tech support at Geocell and DiCor, that these two caulks or sealants are compatible and will cross link and bond.

If you use the recommended sealant, without consulting with their tech support, as well as GeoCell, the, I THINK, supplier for the OEM installation, then you may have to totally abrade and solvent clean the area to ensure a complete adhesion…..and in the future, have to only use the Surebond on the skylight.

You can pull down the tech data sheets and installation instructions one all three products.  I have a background in industrial and construction and roofing and I did a lot of online research as well as talking to vendors before I installed my new FF vent covers and also the compatibility of the ProFlex and Dicor.  What I posted was based on many hours of research..and this ain’t my first rodeo.

So when i post information, it comes from my engineering background as well as hands on experience and knowledge…l

It was posted as a aid and based on many posts here on the skylights and  waterproofing and leak issues.  

This is your project so, whether you use the experience of myself and many other members is your call.

OK….curiosity and technical knowledge is a curse. Too much research….

https://www.natconusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/Acryl-R-SM5504-TDS.pdf    This is what was used as the caulk or sealant for your skylight.  ACRYL-R.  In your manual.  It is a solvent based sealer.  It is an Acrylic and not a butyl rubber.  The Geocell 2300 was used for all other joints, save the windshield.  The “low VOC” Proflex is compatible with the Geocell 2300.  But NOT nor was intended for use on an Acrylic surface….like the skylight…..

Surebond is a Butyl Rubber product, but it dries or skins over similar to both the Proflex and DiCor 501LSW materials… It is still, as the ACRYL-R, a “solvent based”.  It has about have the amount of pure VOC or solvents in it.

PERSONAL OPINION.  It will probably bond or crosslink with the OEM ACRYL-R.  I would make a judgement call as I worked and not go crazy and rip up good caulk or the OEM.  Cleaning the OEM, as long as still bonded, with mineral spirits or acetone will activate the surface and promote bonding or crosslinking.  Get RID of any other “not the right stuff” caulk.  Many folks throw silicone to seal….the absolute worst thing to do.

The Di-Cor 501 LSW will work and be compatible with either.  Don’t know the viscosity of the SureBond.  The OEM ACRYL-R sort of flowed out like thick molasses and it is easier for me to do a good job as it is easier to work with….as is the Di-Cor.

I pulled the MSDS and tech specs and instructions on all 4…just to compare. Thats my opinion and understanding of them and their type and intended usage.

Good Luck..

 

 

[96 EVO]

1 hour ago, guy_ethier said:

I was of the feeling that this was the only sealant one should use, based upon the manufacturer's recommendation?

Amazon.com: SUREBOND BriRus SB140 Skylight Sealant (SB-140 T White) : Industrial & Scientific

Anything else and one is looking for problems down the road. Am I wrong as I have checked the manufacturer's online videos and all of them say the same thing? Only use skylight sealant approved for skylights.

That IS the sealant you want to use!

I bought my replacement from one of the generic online skylight manufacturers ( can't recall the name of the place now), but, you give them the measurements you want, and they make it. Only thing you have to be carefull of while measuring, they don't have as wide of flange as the skylight installed by Monaco.

I used a thick bead of Surebond under the flange, over the new and old mounting holes, then a 4" strip of Eternabond tape over top. Unless something strikes the skylight, I don't expect any water issues!

You will have to drill new holes if you go this route. No big deal!

Edited April 23 by 96 EVO

[Paul J A]

Water & Holding Tanks, Skylights &  A C Shrouds & More

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